Looking at the oil hoses in the oil cooling system I think my car has and relief type cooler. looking at the front of the car the hose on the right side goes behind the cooler to the left then to the oil pan. The single hose leaving the left side of the cooler goes behind the cooler to the right side of the cooler then up towards the oil filter. Both filters look the same the full flow is part #CBC2692 and the relief cooler # is C43923.1975-1985 Coolers to VIN 126092. My car is a 1989.5 VIN #15. Which indicates that I have a full follow. What type do I have? Attached is a drawing of what I think I have. What type of gasket sealant and howmuch should be used on top and bottom of oil and fluid gaskets
Oil Cooler Relief Type.pdf

Full Flow Oil Cooler

 

If your engine has the oil pipes described in the diagrams it has relief flow oil cooling. The oil filters are identical regardless of the oil cooling system.
The actual oil cooler radiator is essentially the same too, but the pipe diameters used are slightly different.
The relief flow oil cooler is extremely effective. I have measured my oil temps under very hot conditions and the oil temp going into my cooler radiator is never over 85°C and comes out of the cooler 20° lower.

 

You are describing the relief flow system. If your engine has the oil pipes described in the diagrams it has relief flow oil cooling. The oil filters are identical regardless of the oil cooling system fitted.
The actual oil cooler radiator is essentially the same too, but the pipe diameters used are slightly different.
The relief flow oil cooler is extremely effective. I have measured my oil temps under very hot conditions and the oil temp going into my cooler radiator is never over 85°C and comes out of the cooler 20° lower.
Here is a photo of the front underneath of the engine with the relief flow return line to the sump sandwich plate ringed in blue. If you have this then you have relief flow oil cooling.

 

An 89 100% for sure should be full flow cooling but what you describe is relief cooling - all engines post 8S 44317 should be full flow, there should be two large diameter pipes going to the filter housing for the full flow - shouldn't look like Gregs photo but if it does then it is relief cooling.

What exactly are you up to

1) The hose connections are scary tight and an absolute pig to loosen off.
2) Can't remove the sandwich plate without dropping the subframe or at the very least pivoting it down
3) Oil cooler holds a fair bit of oil as do the pipes so be prepared unless you are OK with the Exon Valdiz simulation.
4) Oil cooler hoses / pipes are unobtanium so be careful - may want to consider getting any rubber replaced at a hydraulic place.

I use blue Hylomar on these gaskets - not sure how readily it is available in the US.

 

Let's not be too hasty here :-)

The intended market makes a difference. The USA cars of the period all had relief cooling. It's called out clearly in the Jaguar parts catalogs. Canada and Japan market as well, if the Jaguar literature is to be believed.

Cheers
DD

 

That's where I got it re the engine number - all my book says is other applicable markets - doesn't clarify what those are - Jag parts catalog inconsistencies again ? there are parts listed for mine that flat out don't fit had a few conversations with suppliers about such things - reinforcing plates on the sway bar springs to mind - book says it has them and I went out of my way to find them because mine didn't have them ... and they don't fit the holes are all wrong.

 

Stand corrected - found it on another page - Not USA / Canada / Japan

 

Ben
Oil cooler pipes used to be made by NAR in Northampton. They cost an absolute BOMB, but I suspect they still make them. But as you say, reusing the hard pieces and getting them made up at an hydraulic place is a better option.

 

My engine number is 8S33950SA. The engine only has one oil filter. Attached are a few pictures. There are pictures of the fitting on the bottom of the oil pan with the oil pipe coming from the right side of the radiator. This looks like Greg's picture. The pipe from the left side of the radiator goes across the back side of the radiator to the left side up inside the engine then I think down to the oil filter then to the oil pan. Is this a relief oil cooling system?

 

Yes,

ONE Metal pipe AT the Filter Head = Relief System.

TWO metal pipes at the Filter Head = Full Flow system.

The Relief (By-PASS in Aussie Speak) returns the cooled oil to the suction side of the oil pump, via that fitting in the alloy sandwich plate.

The Full Flow system returns the cooled oil to the Filter Head.

ALL V12's have only ONE oil filter, along with the rest of the fleet.

 

Thanks for the information. What brand of gore tex metal gaskets would be recommended? I purchased some Beck Arnley but they don't sell all of the gaskets needed. My car leaked a lot of oil from the oil pan. The pan was held on with various bolt lengths and some with several washers. The oil was extremely black and the lower pan had particles in the bottom, probably metal and the oil was extremely thick. I am going to install a new oil pan and currently looking for good gore tex gaskets, bolts, washers and plug for the oil pan. Should the upper sump be removed cleaned with a new gasket? Will this require lifting the engine or lowering the steering to change the upper gasket? Is Jaguar still just selling the paper gaskets? Which gaskets & or sensors should have sealant applied? What type of sealant would you guys recommend? It is my understanding that Loctite 573 is good and easier to get apart than the 574. The sealant should be applied as a bead to one part only. Any recommendations?

I will have all new radiators and piping for the water cooling, transmission and oil pipes. How should the oil and water cooling systems be flushed out of the engine, cabin heater,etc?

 

Patrick,

A lot of that is covered in the Stickies at the top of this section.

BUT

I have some more to add, and it will be later, my time, as the Pretend (X Type), is having a female moment and needs my attention first and foremost.

Back later, have a beer or 3 and it will all be cleared up.

 

OK, here goes.

To remove that alloy pan, AKA Sandwich Plate, you will need to:
1) Raise and support the engine about 6 inches. STILL a PITA, but doable.
2) Remove the front cradle, AFTER supported the engine of course. Easier by far, especially the refitting of that plate.
3) Remove the engine, my preferred way, and tidy ALL that stuff on the "to do list" and repeat in 20 years.

Gore Tex are the Jaguar Spec gaskets, and readily available via the Jaguar Supplier. Those that support this site are good.

AND

While you are in there, gotta luv that phrase, replace the 3 O/rings on the oil pump suction and supply pipes. They get old, crack, and suck air instead of oil, and spray oil back into the sump in lieu of the oil filter and the engine whizzy bits.

YEP the bolts are variable. Thats why I have a cardboard sheet, with holes around a sketch of the part I am playing with, and place the bolts n the correct hole as I remove them, then refitting is a breeze. Learnt that one back in the early 60's.

Some sealant on the threads of those bolts is a good idea as some are in the oil.

Fluching the block is as best you can with what you have removed. Your will never get it perfect, until you dismantle it and tip it upside down, HA. Heater core is Garden Hose ONLY, and remember the Inlet is teh BOTTOM spigot, so flush from the top to wah the mud out through the Inlet.