So.....I finally completed this long over due maintenance issue on my 2003 convertible and this is what I found.

First option, if you are thinking of buying and replacing these lines that's great but, be ready to fork over $800 (and that's with shopping it everywhere). I wanted to bring this up because all the older posts and info would make you think they still cost @ $400. One of the small hoses that go to the engine side must be getting very rare because it's at least twice what the other hoses cost. Oh and don't forget you will need 6 O rings that come to a ridiculous $40-60.


Second option, If you want to reuse your old lines by changing the hose sections the challenge is finding someone qualified and willing to do the repair. Most shops, even larger ones that claim to make hydraulic hoses will probably say "I can't help you with that" as soon as you walk in the door. The reasons are; they don't have the fittings and there is no way to recrimp a hose ferrule after cutting off the old one. The only way to do this repair correctly is to cut off the ends and reweld new ends/ferrules onto the lines. I found two places that could/'would fix the lines. One place wanted $50 per weld which is fine but we have 8 of them plus the cost of hoses and ferrules on top of that. The second shop was owned by an old school welder and hydraulics specialist. At first he said he wasn't interested in doing the lines because of the time it would take him to do it and get them perfect. After panicking because this was my last place on my list I started talking to the guy about dogs, business, yada yada. Finally he looks down at the lines and says yeah I can do them but I charge by the hour and it might take me a week or two. Long story short He charged me $200 labor and $80 dollars for the hose and 8 ferrules. The hose he used to replace was a nylon braided 350 psi.rated. Everything went back together perfectly and I feel it couldn't be done any better.

So the moral of the story is...... try to find someone that is qualified and willing to do the repair before removing the lines. Honestly, it was way more trouble and angst than I thought it would be. Hope this helps guys

Cheers!

Andrew

 

There is a locally-owned hydraulics repair shop here in Raleigh that has told me that they do these types of hose repairs all day long. He quoted me $80 to $100 and said they will likely be ready the same day I bring them in. That will be where I take my oil cooler lines when the time comes. Even if he winds up doubling his quote to me due to having to deal with so many end pieces, it will still be well worth it....

 

If things are getting that expensive, it might be worth looking at getting a crimper and associated set of ferrules. When my time was up, I looked into it for a bit. At the time, it was not competitive with eBay-sourced new hoses (~$400), but it might be now. From memory, searching for garden hose crimp and ferrules was a good place to start and get a sense of what this tooling looks like. It seem to be pretty common usage in farming irrigation. It quickly became overwhelming looking at different "standards" and sizes, and hard to match to what we have on our cars. It lacked in that little bit of inside knowledge pointing me in the right direction (you need that hose OD, with that ferrule that everyone uses, etc.). Opening a car hood seems to show that type of crimping everywhere though (air conditioning, power steering, etc.). In the end, probably more for a trusted person willing to provide the service to others to recoup the tooling cost. Glad it worked out for you.

 

Fred, it's all your fault!

You have been a great advocate for changing these hoses and dealing with them as a time sensitive issue and not a condition issue. I totally agree but, it was hard because my hoses and crimps were in excellent condition. At $400 dollars I would have just bought new ones but at a shocking $800ish I had to find another way or method without learning all the ins and outs of building hydraulic hoses.

I know there is a lot of information on this subject but I felt I should write an update so it helps someone out in the future.

BTW thanks for being the voice in my head to change them. lol

Cheers!

Andrew

 

Jon, the only thing I can say is most of the places that claimed to be able to make any kind of lines changed their tune quickly when I actually walked through the door with them. The quote you got for $80-$100 has to be each? For all four it doesn't make sense. I mean for parts and labor how could that be possible considering shop time labor is usually $100 or more an hour?

 

I explained the situation to the guy over the phone and referenced the number of hoses involved. You can bet that I will bring diagrams and meet these guys in person before doing any disassembly. If a shop indeed does these jobs "all day long" with same-day turnaround as he said, they may have it down to a science. We shall see when the time comes....

 

Hey Jon

The only reason I’m advising caution is I just went through this and it was really frustrating being told not so much that they couldn’t do it but, they didn’t want to do it. Also, prices are all over the place. Anyway glad it’s over and done

 

I hear you. And I do NOT look forward to this job regardless of how it is eventually handled. I know it will be a bear. Just glad I am not having to do it in this 100-degree heat right now....

 

I will add this for what it's worth. As for the type hose to use, I contacted Gates and they said that the 12Megatech Loc is what they reccomend for oil cooler lines. It is rated at 300F and 1200 psi burst pressure. You can check it out on their web site.

Jack

 

FWIW, the replacement job is really not bad. You don't even have to drain the oil. Put the front up on ramps, remove the plastic undertray and the lines are "right there". There is the X-brace on the engine to secure the lines to the block. The hardest part is to re-fit the lines to the block as the o-ring sort of fights you on this. Some idiot I know (ahem) used the pressure of the screw on the brace to force the lines back into position, and that did not work out well for him. Something about hard steel crews into a soft aluminum block. The hard part is procuring the replacement lines, one way or the other.

Best of luck, keep us posted.

 

It's probably a little more work, but removing the cooling fans will give you better access to the hose to engine connection. You can't see much from the top but at least you can get your hands in there. On my 2005 the sway bar is right in the way from bottom up but can be accessed from there if my memory is correct.

Jack

 

A round mirror on a telescoping rod helps to get the oil lines into the block easily.

they must be fully seated before the X brace and bolt are installed.

Z

 

My biggest challenge working on my wife's XK8 is that I have monster-sized hands that simply cannot get down into the tight spaces that are often involved. Is that likely to prevent me from being able to do the oil cooler lines replacement job properly?

 

I'm about 6'5" tall and have very large hands and I have worked on my oil lines. It does make it more difficult, but you will probably be fine.

Jack

 

I would say the hardest part or what I dreaded most was the cooler line to engine connection but it actually was pretty easy. When you jack the front of the car up go a little higher than you normally would it helps the angle for getting the lines back in. Second and this is key to getting the lines put back correctly, try shifting your body position so that you are able to get two hands (two sets of fingers) on the task one guiding the line back into the hole and the other pushing to seat it. Once both lines are back in and seated the X brace can be reinstalled .. Also, I used some hi temp rtv as a lube sealant which makes the o rings slide back in easily..

Cheers!

 

Question: When you re-seat your new (or repaired) lines, do the ends "click" into place? In other words, do you hear or feel a "click" that lets you know you have them fully seated?

 

I could definitely feel when it seated, not a click but a clear firm seating.

 

I wouldn’t recommend any type of RTV with an o ring. Engine oil or a drop of ATF would be better if something has to be used . I’ve never had to use anything in that regard.

Z

 

Do you even need to crimp the hoses onto the aluminium sections? Won't a jubilee clip do the job if you have a good one. I can't think the pressu rein the oil lines is all that high some clamps are rated to well over 200psi.
Browse our High Torque range (jubileeclips.co.uk)

 

Well the silicone worked great. Some use silicone grease for the same purpose. Hey whatever works for you