When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Wiring diagram reading for troubleshooting parking aid sensors
As a mechanical engineer, reading electrical diagrams can sometimes feel like you're watching a horror movie, complete with a sense of dread and jump scares. Can somebody who is comfortable with these diagrams please confirm if I am doing this correctly?
Objective: Locating parking aid fuse as part of troubleshooting the silent sensors.
- On Fig 19.1 of the wiring diagram, I see that the parking aid control module is powered by switched position 12 (12I). - At the bottom of the figure, I see that 12I is addressed on Figure 1.4. - On Fig 1.4, I see that 12I runs through 5A fuse #13 in the trunk fuse box => go check fuse #13.
Does this make sense or am I missing something? Thanks!
Yes, you are reading it correctly (although you've put the red box in the wrong place on the screengrab). The I after the 12 means position one on the ignition switch. II means position two.
Great, thanks!
Staying consistent with my luck lately, the fuse is just fine, so checking harness and connectors next. It also occurred to me that the sensors and chime have had to work pretty hard lately with my trying to get the backup camera going, meaning I've been standing with my head in the trunk and the shifter in reverse (ignition on, engine off of course!) for extended periods of time. Maybe the parking sensor module doesn't dissipate heat well and can't handle a a few minutes of constant action?
If I were you I'd check for power and ground at the module and check that "reverse lamps activated" line is coming on when in reverse - maybe you did something to it when fitting your backup camera.
I doubt you've burnt out the module, but I suppose it's possible.
FWIW, folks have reported before that the sensors, when active, emit a faint clicking sound from up close. That would be a scenario where the sounder is somehow no longer functional, but the rest of the system still is.
As the wiring diagram shows, there is apparently a way to run diagnostic on this box (serial line) but you would need the right scanner/software.
Also, there is an input based on the reverse light that you could, carefully, activate to test.
FWIW, folks have reported before that the sensors, when active, emit a faint clicking sound from up close. That would be a scenario where the sounder is somehow no longer functional, but the rest of the system still is.
As the wiring diagram shows, there is apparently a way to run diagnostic on this box (serial line) but you would need the right scanner/software.
Also, there is an input based on the reverse light that you could, carefully, activate to test.
Best of luck, keep us posted.
Yeah, I'm going to get as scanner shortly. I see several people use the iCarsoft LR II, so will probably be my pick.
The sensors do not click (none of them), so more likely the module or the wiring rather than the sounder.
Thanks!