I have read quite a few of threads regarding the problems with X-Types and Charging etc. I am having similar problems but a few added twists. I have just started working on cars when I got my X-Type. It was a gift from a friend who is no longer with us. She is a Blue 2004 X-Type 3.0 vin D65289, so I don't think it's the .25 version. Not sure thought. I also have a 2002 White X-Type 3.0 for parts. My Blue on has been great but around a month ago the battery light came on one early morning drive, got home and started up with no light or problems until a week ago. Light came on again. Started fine the next day, drove around, the morning after that however dead. Battery was down to 57% charge. Charged it up, wouldn't start. Roommate who is a mechanic got home I told him and guess what, damn car started right up 2 days later drove it into town and was at a friend's house came out dead. Easy jump. Drive to Walmart and friends place to drop off her mail, got almost home and left the car running for about 30 minutes while I was in smiths since I was scared to turn it off. Wouldn't drive after that. Gear box fault flashed airbags. Parked it pulled battery and same thing down to 57%. Charge it started right up. Cables look ok but I am going to go see if she will start and test the cable with load etc. I don't know what it is, oh and on a side note. I do have a abs code c1266 c1145 and p0000 then parking and PAM code C1709, C1743 then also B2516. But the odd thing about the parking sensors is that my build sheets says I have them, but I can't see where on my car and I don't have the switch. My car was hit and I guess that's why they are all popping up all of the sudden? Or could they be related to the charging issues. Also my alarm isn't always chirping when I lock my doors and I also have the key flap door not always closing when I remove my key. Oh I am sorry one last major problem I think...I have no accessory power when I turn my key on to position number 2. The clock lights up but no radio sound or anything else. No cig. Lighter, nada. But when I turn my key to position number 3, everything lights up just fine.a friend tested all the wires for power in the steering column and in both fuse boxes and relays. Everything has power and good. I can't help but think this stuff is all related. Thank you so much for your help. I know nothing about the electrical side of cars but want to learn, just have to find someone to teach me.

Update! I pulled the generator and had the possibly broken one and the one from my parts car. Guess what both tested good. The one from the blue car, the bearings did sound a little rough. So I am going to use the one from my parts car. That damn thing was so hard to get out. Had to remove the radiator support, us a pry bar. It was awful and I definitely not looking forward to putting it back in, kinda doubt I can do it alone. Anyways any advice would be welcome on how to trouble shoot this issue. Actually any advice on any issues would be great back to make installing it much easier. Thanks guys I really appreciate it!

 

Your symptoms suggest that the battery cables, one or both, may be internally corroded, a ver common occurrence. The test is Thermo’s suggested one. After running the engine with accessories turned ON, use your hand held closely above each battery post. If one is significantly hotter than the other, you have a corroded cable. Of course, they will both be hot if both cables are corroded!

I found the corroded cable issue to be the cause of an intermittent battery warning light on one of our X-Types. Your other symptoms are related to the battery not being properly charged, again possibly/probably related to a corroded cable.

 

MainJag, your parking sensors are built into the rear bumper. If you look, you should see 4 circles in the bumper. 2 will be near the center (say a foot to either side of the center) and then the other two are near the corners of the car. Specifically, if you look, the bumper cover has a painted section and a black section under the bumper cover. The sensors sit in that black section. If you do find the sensors, you can have someone put the car in REVERSE and keep their foot on the brake as you put your ear next to each of the 4 sensors. You should hear a high pitch squeal/chirp. If you only have 1 not chirping, that sensor is bad. If all 4 are not playing, then odds are it is your parking aide module. Of note, the center sensors are different than the outer ones. If you are replacing, make sure to get the correct sensor. The difference is how the sensor plugs in. Two go in straight, two have a 90 degree bend in them. As for the sounder, odds are, you are going to need a new sounder as the speaker has failed (common issue).

WHen it comes to your battery, follow what I have said in the PMs. We will get you taken care of.

 

Definitely closely inspect the battery cables.

I had exactly the same battery light issues, on hot days and in slow traffic. Sydney summers can exceed 43 degrees. I've seen 51 degrees on the external sensor, probably due the heat beating off the tarmac and slow traffic.

The positive cable was too hot to touch.

FIX: I added an extra cable from battery to alternator and have not seen any issues recur. I've left in place the standard positive wiring harness (with clearly corroded strands of wire...not able to carry the current load). The new cable takes up the current/voltage load.

 

Agreed.
I took it one step further.
After running the car for an hour, i took a laser temp gauge and the positive end on my battery was 134 degrees, while the negative clocked in at just over 200 degrees.
I put a new cable on and then made a few more to go between the engine and transmission, and the body and tranny mount. no problems since.

 

I recently repaired an '04 3.0L with very similar symptoms to the OP's, and I found three contributing issues.

The alternator tested good though slightly low in output with my Midtronics analyzer, but its bearings were noisy when I listened with a stethoscope. The battery was only 2 years old, but even after a full charge it tested a bit weak at 671 CCA vs. its rated capacity of 790 CCA.

Knowing the X-Type issues with battery cables, I measured the resistance of the positive cable from the alternator to starter to battery, and the negative cable from the battery to the body ground point. The cables measured fine with very low resistance, even while flexing them along their length, but I found that the ground bolt on the left inner wheel arch was heavily corroded:




Despite applying penetrant and allowing it to soak, the bolt head just snapped off when I attempted to remove it:




There is another bolt nearby, so I used a small 3M disc to clean the paint from the area, cleaned the battery cable terminals, and fixed the cable at the new bolt:



After tightening the bolt, I spritzed the area with battery terminal protectant. I then cleaned the battery posts and cable terminals.

This immediately raised the alternator output as measured at the battery terminals. But while monitoring the alternator output after the computer's startup voltage machinations, I realized that the output would suddenly drop from 14.35 volts to 12.4 volts, then jump to 13.97 volts, then drop to 12.5 volts. The alternator was failing intermittently. So I replaced the alternator (A/C compressor & upper radiator hose removed), and all was well. I also found that the belt tensioner was virtually seized and the idler pulleys were noisy, so I replaced those as well.

I advised my friend that the battery should be replaced before cold weather arrives, and she opted to have me proceed with the replacement.

Without thinking about it too much, it seems possible that the high-resistance ground contributed to alternator failure, and the intermittently-failing alternator was undercharging the battery, which shortened its life.

Cheers,

Don