Good morning,

I come with a humbling request and most likely out of frustration of not understanding what I'm missing. Here's what is going on

• After a 3 hour drive the car stalls, and hasn't started since
• Prior to it stalling, I got some diesel from a reputable station which I've gotten some from them before
• About a mile down the road. The car just stalls
• When I got it back home I've discovered that I have no spark from the coil or any of the plugs from the distributor
• In my troubleshooting steps, I've replaced the ignition coil and the ignition module twice. The latest is an AC Delco d1906 which I have pictured
• I've gone as far as placing a wire from positive on the battery to the positive on the coil and I still don't have spark
• I am not too knowledgeable on publishing steps on gas vehicles as I do work on diesel engines for my older Mercedes w123s. I'm also not a mechanic.
• I've been speaking with individuals troubleshooting steps and I've gone through the troubleshooting guide in the service manual which I also have, pictures included

The latest I've done is attempt to start the car with replacing the ignition module in the ignition amplifier. I have not yet performed the ohms tests of the new ignition module since I just replaced it 3 minutes ago and I'm getting angry on what I'm missing.

What steps do I need to do to get this car working, how do I specifically diagnose the ignition switch without having to replace it? Am I doing the ignition switch bypass correctly by putting the wire between the positive on the battery to the positive on the coil? Is there something else I need to be looking at.

​​​​​​As for how the car is currently functioning, all the electronics from all I can see work. I confirmed that fuel is going to the fuel rail because I am hearing the fuel pump and I've taken the fuel line off and I have fuel coming up to it.


Ignition amplifier I have replaced the ignition module twice.

The latest ignition module that's installed

Troubleshooting steps I've gotten from the service manual

Some of the gear used to troubleshoot

Replacement coil and original

Thank you so much and I appreciate everyone's help.

 

Diesel?

 

Before you try anything else: clean all the corrosion off the Ignition Amplifier, inside and out, bolts, washer and nut must also be clean or new. The outside mounting bolt needs a good ground to frame or engine block. Temporary disconnect the Condenser and the Diode in upper right corner (they are for protection and radio interference and can short out to ground.)
Can you give the manufacture and part number of new ignition coil. It should be about .9 ohms..
Rgds
David

 

I'm not too sure what you're in question of?

 

Thank you David for the details. I have only been screwing in one of the my mounting bolts to the frame when I finish installing the new module. I'll work on completing cleaning out the amplifier and disconnecting the pieces you're mentioning.

 

• Prior to it stalling, I got some diesel from a reputable station which I've gotten some from them before

It’s not going to run on diesel!!

 

Oh oh I misspoke there I did not put diesel in it. Sorry for the confusion!!

 

Here is the part number for the coil that I had purchased on rockauto

STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS UF2 SpecificationsAttachment Method ClampColor BlackConnector Gender FemaleConnector Quantity 2Ignition Type Oil FilledMounting Bracket Included NoMounting Hardware Included NoTerminal Gender FemaleTerminal Quantity 2Terminal Type SCREWVoltage 12OEM / Interchange Numbers: 001582803, 032418100, 037018100, 048318100B, 048318100C, 059905105, 059905105B, 059985164, 12111357294, 12131357240, 12131357294, 12131357295, 12131357295AE, 1219230, 12303003, 12303005, 12309054, 152418100, 152418100A, 156218100, 167218100A, 171905115, 171905115A, 1972568, 1972641, 1972648, 1972666, 1972668, 2243314401, 2243314606, 2243314615, 2243314616, 22433A5400, 22433A5410, 22433AA170, 22433U3310, 360718100A, 395824920, 4196720, 4386221, 4627642, 7952666, 826490, 887118100, 887118920, 887124920, 8941086921, 8941303570, 8941303571, 90160210201, D0RY12029B, E35618100, E35718100, E8BZ12029B, MD003800, T0562180, T0586552 Show Fewer

 

David,

I hope your doing well; I took a few hours to troubleshoot this car and I'm still getting nowhere. I have done:
Cleaned out the amplifier as instructed and ensured it looked good I have some images below.

Pre cleanup

Pre cleanup

Cleaned out.

After reinstalling module with thermal grease

After cleaning and removal of the two components. New module.

I then reinstalled everything, used a spark tester on cylinder 1 and receiving no spark. Test resistance on the new ignition coil and I have 1.4 -1.5 ohms. The original ignition coil is at .9 ohms

I sat down for a few moments and reviewed images of my ignition amplifier to others and I noticed I may have my wires crossed. The black white wire and white were incorrect. I unfortunately didn't have previous pictures to verify the wiring layout and if I did, they are gone with a phone I just replaced. I placed the white wire on B and black-white on C. I had those swapped around. Could having those wires crossed and me starting the vehicle break the new module?

I don't recall a good method to test the ignition module so what I tried was testing resistance on the modules original and new.

The results were drastically different:

Original: roughly 110 ohms on W and G
New: roughly 9.9 ohms on W and G
​​​​​​Both B and C don't show any resistance.

At this point I put the original coil and ignition module back into place and still no spark. What can I test next?

 

1. Your new coil will work at 1.4 ohms and is a aftermarket coil aimed at many makes and models.. The .9 ohm is Jaguar spec (Genuine Lucas Sport Ignition Coil DLB198) and will produce a hotter spark.
2. I checked my spare Ignition Module and it was 6.9 ohms between W and G. No resistance between B and C.
3. With new Ignition Module and Condenser and diode disconnected, and the Amplifier box having a good ground, you are not getting spark.. Next step is to look at input to B and C from the Distributor pickup.
Timing at idle must match placard on inside of your hood (bonnet) probably 14 or 17 degrees for your year and model.
Check Vac advance and Mechanical advance movement with cap off that they move freely and snap back to idle position when released.
Your check of resistance of distributor pickup (input to B and C) is good, make sure neither lead shorts to ground. These wires do break with age giving intermittent signal to the Ignition module; with ohm meter connected, wiggle wires to see if you get an open.
The gap between pickup and star rotor should be .014 to .016" checked with a non-magnetic feeler gauge.
If you have not removed any spark plug wires since it last ran, you can rule out ignition wire routing.
If you have not replace cap and rotor recently, the internal carbon button at inside center of cap can be a problem with spark going to plugs, try removing the center high tension lead from ignition coil to cap and see if you can get a spark from the ignition wire coil to the cap.
Rgds
David

 

You must have both mounting bolts installed on the Ignition amplifier, other wise you will have vacuum leak into the intake manifold.