x300 pump not pumping, instrument panel lights once
#1
x300 pump not pumping, instrument panel lights once
Hello,
I recently bought a 1996 Daimler Six with 127,000 km on it.
The car is in fairly good condition. The engine and transmission worked fine.
However, I had it suspended on Jack stands outside my house during the summer, tyres off, while working to change all four struts myself.
Few days ago, I lowered it, washed it, washed the engine, tried to start it but it did not. Even after a week or so.
After going through several inspections and checks of fuses, relays and switches ,the current situation is this:
Instrument panel only works once then I have to unplug the negative battery terminal for a few seconds, put it back, then the instrument panel will light up again . If I turn the key off, panel lights won’t go back on until I unplug the battery for few seconds.
The engine cranks, but there’s no fuel delivery from the fuel pipe in the engine bay.
Noticed the fuel pump relay socket has some carbon marking on it (see picture). I’m not sure if this is old or recent.
Burnt or worn?
I jumped the relay terminals with a paper clip to test the pump, but did not hear anything.
The fuel sender unit leaks tiny fuel. I plan to replace it.
I should mention the harness loom socket on top of the fuel tank is not in its best condition.
It was glued before (when it bought it) and now I have a temporary fix which is not solid (I took it off, now I regret it)
I still need to insure the socket is totally pushed in every time I want to crank the car (indications: instrument panel lights ON, roof and doors corner red lights ON).
Inertia switch seems to work fine (it cuts off when pressed and held).
Key FOB does not work. Central and boot buttons do not work via FOB, dash or, directly buttons.
Gear lever lights are on.
One auxiliary fan runs whenever I turn the key to access position ( I think this is normal).
Roof, windows, side mirrors, A/C fan all work.
Finally, There are two worn wires in the front tyres wells which I’m not sure what for.
Sorry for the long writeup.
Appreciate your feedback.
Regards,
Khaled A.
I recently bought a 1996 Daimler Six with 127,000 km on it.
The car is in fairly good condition. The engine and transmission worked fine.
However, I had it suspended on Jack stands outside my house during the summer, tyres off, while working to change all four struts myself.
Few days ago, I lowered it, washed it, washed the engine, tried to start it but it did not. Even after a week or so.
After going through several inspections and checks of fuses, relays and switches ,the current situation is this:
Instrument panel only works once then I have to unplug the negative battery terminal for a few seconds, put it back, then the instrument panel will light up again . If I turn the key off, panel lights won’t go back on until I unplug the battery for few seconds.
The engine cranks, but there’s no fuel delivery from the fuel pipe in the engine bay.
Noticed the fuel pump relay socket has some carbon marking on it (see picture). I’m not sure if this is old or recent.
Burnt or worn?
I jumped the relay terminals with a paper clip to test the pump, but did not hear anything.
The fuel sender unit leaks tiny fuel. I plan to replace it.
I should mention the harness loom socket on top of the fuel tank is not in its best condition.
It was glued before (when it bought it) and now I have a temporary fix which is not solid (I took it off, now I regret it)
I still need to insure the socket is totally pushed in every time I want to crank the car (indications: instrument panel lights ON, roof and doors corner red lights ON).
Inertia switch seems to work fine (it cuts off when pressed and held).
Key FOB does not work. Central and boot buttons do not work via FOB, dash or, directly buttons.
Gear lever lights are on.
One auxiliary fan runs whenever I turn the key to access position ( I think this is normal).
Roof, windows, side mirrors, A/C fan all work.
Finally, There are two worn wires in the front tyres wells which I’m not sure what for.
Sorry for the long writeup.
Appreciate your feedback.
Regards,
Khaled A.
#2
Hello,
Few days ago, I lowered it, washed it, washed the engine, tried to start it but it did not. Even after a week or so.
I should mention the harness loom socket on top of the fuel tank is not in its best condition.
One auxiliary fan runs whenever I turn the key to access position ( I think this is normal).
Khaled A.
Few days ago, I lowered it, washed it, washed the engine, tried to start it but it did not. Even after a week or so.
I should mention the harness loom socket on top of the fuel tank is not in its best condition.
One auxiliary fan runs whenever I turn the key to access position ( I think this is normal).
Khaled A.
Fuel pump wiring at the EVAPORATIVE FLANGE is a common fault.
The radiator fans run with 'key-on' if the TSB was performed.
The Rad fans runs in SERIES on LOW and PARALLEL on HIGH. (both fans run at the same time ALWAYS)
Last edited by motorcarman; 10-10-2024 at 04:22 PM.
#3
Paper clip is not a good jumper , suggest use blade type connectors and a medium gauge wire , take the relay with you for blade size
They can make one for you with a kit / toolbox behind counter at the common auto parts store
The burnt contacts in the fuel pump relay is a sign the fuel pump electric motor is failing but is usually the power contacts inside the relay
But there are easy things you can check
The fuel pump enable works like this :
There is a secret fuse the provide relay control power as the # 10 right heelboard fuse box , in order that the fuse is powered the relay in the corner of the fuse box must close
This same fuse powers the OBD 2 port and there are faults with that reported
To test this relay have the key in run but not running , remove the relay and it must click in your fingers back to open
To close the fuel pump relay the ECU provides a ground control path
In the start sequence the fuel pump relay will click closed for 3 seconds only than open
Once the crankshaft position sensor on the front of the engine sees engine rotation above a certain point the ECU will again provide a ground path to close the fuel pump relay for the duration of your drive , safety design
The power the ECU so it can provide the control ground path , it has 2 power sources , small relay in the corner of the right engine bay fuse box and the large # 5 right ECU controlled relay
Swap the right for left engine bay fuse box relay as the left only runs the car horn
Swap the large # 5 for a headlight , fog , or A / C cutch . Turn the relay socket upside down and spray with penetrating oil as they can be stuck in their sockets
Your target to clean is the CKPS as you washed the engine bay
Ask questions and check the fuel pump electric motor connector for burnt sockets
The inertia switch does not always reset after you exersized it , remove connector and jumoer the 2 white wires to each other , paper clip fine in this case , low current
There is a extra relay socket in the trunk for axillary power that you probably don't use / trailer ?
They can make one for you with a kit / toolbox behind counter at the common auto parts store
The burnt contacts in the fuel pump relay is a sign the fuel pump electric motor is failing but is usually the power contacts inside the relay
But there are easy things you can check
The fuel pump enable works like this :
There is a secret fuse the provide relay control power as the # 10 right heelboard fuse box , in order that the fuse is powered the relay in the corner of the fuse box must close
This same fuse powers the OBD 2 port and there are faults with that reported
To test this relay have the key in run but not running , remove the relay and it must click in your fingers back to open
To close the fuel pump relay the ECU provides a ground control path
In the start sequence the fuel pump relay will click closed for 3 seconds only than open
Once the crankshaft position sensor on the front of the engine sees engine rotation above a certain point the ECU will again provide a ground path to close the fuel pump relay for the duration of your drive , safety design
The power the ECU so it can provide the control ground path , it has 2 power sources , small relay in the corner of the right engine bay fuse box and the large # 5 right ECU controlled relay
Swap the right for left engine bay fuse box relay as the left only runs the car horn
Swap the large # 5 for a headlight , fog , or A / C cutch . Turn the relay socket upside down and spray with penetrating oil as they can be stuck in their sockets
Your target to clean is the CKPS as you washed the engine bay
Ask questions and check the fuel pump electric motor connector for burnt sockets
The inertia switch does not always reset after you exersized it , remove connector and jumoer the 2 white wires to each other , paper clip fine in this case , low current
There is a extra relay socket in the trunk for axillary power that you probably don't use / trailer ?
Last edited by Parker 7; 10-10-2024 at 04:00 PM.
#4
Hello Motorcarman,
Yes. I came to find out washing these engine is done in certain manner.
I did clean the few sockets i can reach and relays I can unplug in the engine bay with contact cleaner and WD40 mix. The weather is humid with zero wind these days which prolongs dryness.
Do you have an idea what could cause the instrument panel to go in then off once?
Thank you.
Yes. I came to find out washing these engine is done in certain manner.
I did clean the few sockets i can reach and relays I can unplug in the engine bay with contact cleaner and WD40 mix. The weather is humid with zero wind these days which prolongs dryness.
Do you have an idea what could cause the instrument panel to go in then off once?
Thank you.
#6
[img alt="Default"]/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif[/img]Hello Parker7,
Thank you for the information.
Checked ALL fuses twice visually and with a multimeter. All report to duty. Did the relay swap. Relays were harder to inspect as some are stuck in place (hate to force them out). Sprayed contact cleaner around the housing. Sprayed CKPS housing and plug as well. Should I remove it to clean it?
Will check the fuel pump once I find a suitable probe.
Any suggestion as to what trips the instrument panel?
Regards,
Thank you for the information.
Checked ALL fuses twice visually and with a multimeter. All report to duty. Did the relay swap. Relays were harder to inspect as some are stuck in place (hate to force them out). Sprayed contact cleaner around the housing. Sprayed CKPS housing and plug as well. Should I remove it to clean it?
Will check the fuel pump once I find a suitable probe.
Any suggestion as to what trips the instrument panel?
Regards,
#7
There is a light dimming switch as a very small knob on the steering column left
Turn the switch to override for the IC background lights , is it the IC fault lights and not background ?
The large relays can be turned upside down to get penetrating oil into the seams that contain a thin O - ring to waterproof them
Don't lose track of placing relay in correct mount position as can be mixed and then you go by wire color
Keep asking questions
Turn the switch to override for the IC background lights , is it the IC fault lights and not background ?
The large relays can be turned upside down to get penetrating oil into the seams that contain a thin O - ring to waterproof them
Don't lose track of placing relay in correct mount position as can be mixed and then you go by wire color
Keep asking questions
Last edited by Parker 7; Yesterday at 01:29 AM.
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#8
The CKPS can get grime on the tip of the sensor ( from wash down ) to interfere with the signal
Just wipe tip
The plug can still have water in it
Bed time for me
Did you place main car battery in backwards , blows CKPS , ask me how I know
A good CKPS will read 1300 ohms resistance with a basic meter , bad infinitely high or zero
The CKPS does not have any adjustsment , just bolts in one postion
battery positive post car fwd , mark with tape and arrow
Just wipe tip
The plug can still have water in it
Bed time for me
Did you place main car battery in backwards , blows CKPS , ask me how I know
A good CKPS will read 1300 ohms resistance with a basic meter , bad infinitely high or zero
The CKPS does not have any adjustsment , just bolts in one postion
battery positive post car fwd , mark with tape and arrow
Last edited by Parker 7; Yesterday at 01:55 AM.
#9
Hello Parker 7,
I was referring to the instrument warning lights not needle background lights.
I went again to clean the relays and crank sensor as you suggested. There was a slight improvement in that the The instrument’s warning lights now stay longer, light up when the key is switched off then on few times (but then stay off until ai disconnect/reconnect the negative terminal).
did not miss place battery terminals at any time.
The humid weather is not helping dry things up faster.
did you mean spark plugs could get water inside?
Thank you.
I was referring to the instrument warning lights not needle background lights.
I went again to clean the relays and crank sensor as you suggested. There was a slight improvement in that the The instrument’s warning lights now stay longer, light up when the key is switched off then on few times (but then stay off until ai disconnect/reconnect the negative terminal).
did not miss place battery terminals at any time.
The humid weather is not helping dry things up faster.
did you mean spark plugs could get water inside?
Thank you.
#10
The CKPS sensor plug / connector
To do a whole car electrical distribution check ( for the instrument cluster ) in a nut shell , IC is powered through the left healboard fuse box
Have key in run with engine not running
Remove each single relay in the corner of each 5 fuse boxes with the exception of the left engine bay fuse box , the relay should click in your fingers back to open , the left engine fuse box relay only runs the car horns and is a swapping option
Your first target is swapping the left engine bay fuse box relay for the left heelboard , may be a intermittent left heelboard fuse box relay
To do a whole car electrical distribution check ( for the instrument cluster ) in a nut shell , IC is powered through the left healboard fuse box
Have key in run with engine not running
Remove each single relay in the corner of each 5 fuse boxes with the exception of the left engine bay fuse box , the relay should click in your fingers back to open , the left engine fuse box relay only runs the car horns and is a swapping option
Your first target is swapping the left engine bay fuse box relay for the left heelboard , may be a intermittent left heelboard fuse box relay
Last edited by Parker 7; Yesterday at 05:27 PM.
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