New difficult Jatco JF506E (transmission) torque converter QUESTION
#1
New difficult Jatco JF506E (transmission) torque converter QUESTION
It's really not easy to remove the sideways mounted transmission Jatco JF506E from an X-Type.
But I had to do it again, to see what is all of a sudden wrong, since I replaced the REAR crankshaft seal about 4 month ago (plus all the other seals):
Since then I had a massive ATF (Automatic transmission fluid) leak, and I could not drive the Jag anymore...
After only 6 afternoons I have now the transmission off again - and I was hoping to see something, which was obviously wrong...
But I cannot see anything wrong.
Also, I am sure now that the torque converter was sitting fully in (all 3 steps (1st step, 2nd step and pump)).: The outermost point of the torque converter was sitting flush with the transmission bell-housing. I confirmed that this is where it needs to be.
So, why was I loosing all of a sudden that much ATF?
I took 3 pictures showing something I am wondering about:
The first 2 pictures show the "receptor" in the bell housing of the Jatco transmission and the 3rd picture shows the torque converter. Note the "gap" behind the receptor and the little indent behind the receptor - and also note the section of the reduced diameter of the torque converter...
Does anybody know, if I have to ensure any kind of specific orientation of the reduced diameter in relation to the gap and the indent, when sliding the torque converter onto the transmission?
Maybe there is only one correct way of doing this and everything else would lead to an ATF leak...
Note that the outer-most surface of the reduce diameter end sits flush over the gab and indent... - or not, depending on how I slide the torque converter on....
But I had to do it again, to see what is all of a sudden wrong, since I replaced the REAR crankshaft seal about 4 month ago (plus all the other seals):
Since then I had a massive ATF (Automatic transmission fluid) leak, and I could not drive the Jag anymore...
After only 6 afternoons I have now the transmission off again - and I was hoping to see something, which was obviously wrong...
But I cannot see anything wrong.
Also, I am sure now that the torque converter was sitting fully in (all 3 steps (1st step, 2nd step and pump)).: The outermost point of the torque converter was sitting flush with the transmission bell-housing. I confirmed that this is where it needs to be.
So, why was I loosing all of a sudden that much ATF?
I took 3 pictures showing something I am wondering about:
The first 2 pictures show the "receptor" in the bell housing of the Jatco transmission and the 3rd picture shows the torque converter. Note the "gap" behind the receptor and the little indent behind the receptor - and also note the section of the reduced diameter of the torque converter...
Does anybody know, if I have to ensure any kind of specific orientation of the reduced diameter in relation to the gap and the indent, when sliding the torque converter onto the transmission?
Maybe there is only one correct way of doing this and everything else would lead to an ATF leak...
Note that the outer-most surface of the reduce diameter end sits flush over the gab and indent... - or not, depending on how I slide the torque converter on....
#2
UPDATE:
I have just answered my own question...
I was basically staring at the parts - meditating...
And then I finally saw it:
The "receptor" for the torque converter on the transmission features 2 hard to spot opposed to each other "reduced sections" of the inner diameter at the deep end.
So this is, where the the matching reduced outer diameter on the torque converter - as shown in the thread above - needs to go...
So, while this question is solved - and I am sure now that that ALSO was NOT the reason for my ATF leak - I fear I have no option but putting everything together again and hope that this MADNESS (Einstein's definition of madness is to try doing the same thing over and over gain expecting a different outcome) will stop the leak...
I have just answered my own question...
I was basically staring at the parts - meditating...
And then I finally saw it:
The "receptor" for the torque converter on the transmission features 2 hard to spot opposed to each other "reduced sections" of the inner diameter at the deep end.
So this is, where the the matching reduced outer diameter on the torque converter - as shown in the thread above - needs to go...
So, while this question is solved - and I am sure now that that ALSO was NOT the reason for my ATF leak - I fear I have no option but putting everything together again and hope that this MADNESS (Einstein's definition of madness is to try doing the same thing over and over gain expecting a different outcome) will stop the leak...
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Don B (10-26-2024)
#3
#4
Yes, It did evaluate and re-evaluate and re-evaluate the fitment of the torque converter, and I am very sure now that is sits as is meant to (but I am also sure that it was sitting correctly before).
I looked long and hard at the condition of the new pump seal (and the new O-ring on the shaft that it protruding out). They both looked perfectly fine - but I thought already that I will replace them again, IF the leak persists. I decided that rather than waiting for new parts, I will reassemble now everything, and if the leak persist, I will order those parts again and take the transmission off for a third time (...and then I will have plenty to practice to do it all over again on another X-Type, which I have here waiting for me since years, because the reverse gear does not work...). And yes: I found a new source for that pump-seal: Aliexpress. Before I ordered from a Jaguar parts supplier in England.
I looked long and hard at the condition of the new pump seal (and the new O-ring on the shaft that it protruding out). They both looked perfectly fine - but I thought already that I will replace them again, IF the leak persists. I decided that rather than waiting for new parts, I will reassemble now everything, and if the leak persist, I will order those parts again and take the transmission off for a third time (...and then I will have plenty to practice to do it all over again on another X-Type, which I have here waiting for me since years, because the reverse gear does not work...). And yes: I found a new source for that pump-seal: Aliexpress. Before I ordered from a Jaguar parts supplier in England.
#5
Update: As I kind of feared: As I did not do anything different, the ATF continued to leak.
I assembled only the absolute necessary to be able to run the engine with transmission and TC attached in gear, i.e. car on stands, no front wheels attached, no prop shaft attached, only left half-axle inserted with frt. shock (so that the ATF does not poor out of the transmission there).
Still leaking ATF - it is dripping out of the bottom of the bell housing, as before.
I searched for parts - and I ordered:
1.) The ATF pump seal from Aliexpress - the title of the Aliexpress listing is:
RE4F03A LJ4AEL JF404E JF506E Automatic Transmission Oil Pump Seal 90-up FP0119437 001321243A for Volkswagen (42x59 x 8mm)
I found it by looking for seals for JF506E
Cost for 2 of those seals: AUD$20 plus AUD$10 postage. Due to the high postage I expect the seals to be here fast.2.) Located on the shaft protruding out of that ATF pump seal is an O-ring. I want to replace that as well.
I put a lot of time into attempting to find that OE O-Ring just anywhere on the internet - no luck - cannot find a P/N for it.
Hence, I measured the o-ring on my transmission and looked for it on the internet.
Also, I read a lot about, if I should use NBR or FKM o-rings. While they are fairly similar in properties, I again came to the conclusion that FKM is preferred, also for this special application (contact with ATF). Also FKM O-rings come in various colours with slightly different properties. While I normally use green FKM O-rings, here I chose a brown O-Ring. I found it on ebay. I need it fast, and this O-Ring, which I found, is located in Australia, hence it should be here in a couple of days.
Cost for 5 brown FKM O-Rings: AUD$3.90 plus AUD$3.90 again in postage.
Size of the brown FKM O-Ring: CS (cross section thickness): 1.78mm, ID: 20.35mm (which means mathematically that the OD equates to 23.91mm).
Thus, I wait for the parts now, and then it's "Removal of Transmission", Part III.
Looking at it with humour: Maybe Jaguar should have added another switch on the dashboard with the 2 switch-options: "Drop transmission" and "Reassemble transmission". This switch would get quite a workout in my X-Type...
I assembled only the absolute necessary to be able to run the engine with transmission and TC attached in gear, i.e. car on stands, no front wheels attached, no prop shaft attached, only left half-axle inserted with frt. shock (so that the ATF does not poor out of the transmission there).
Still leaking ATF - it is dripping out of the bottom of the bell housing, as before.
I searched for parts - and I ordered:
1.) The ATF pump seal from Aliexpress - the title of the Aliexpress listing is:
RE4F03A LJ4AEL JF404E JF506E Automatic Transmission Oil Pump Seal 90-up FP0119437 001321243A for Volkswagen (42x59 x 8mm)
I found it by looking for seals for JF506E
Cost for 2 of those seals: AUD$20 plus AUD$10 postage. Due to the high postage I expect the seals to be here fast.2.) Located on the shaft protruding out of that ATF pump seal is an O-ring. I want to replace that as well.
I put a lot of time into attempting to find that OE O-Ring just anywhere on the internet - no luck - cannot find a P/N for it.
Hence, I measured the o-ring on my transmission and looked for it on the internet.
Also, I read a lot about, if I should use NBR or FKM o-rings. While they are fairly similar in properties, I again came to the conclusion that FKM is preferred, also for this special application (contact with ATF). Also FKM O-rings come in various colours with slightly different properties. While I normally use green FKM O-rings, here I chose a brown O-Ring. I found it on ebay. I need it fast, and this O-Ring, which I found, is located in Australia, hence it should be here in a couple of days.
Cost for 5 brown FKM O-Rings: AUD$3.90 plus AUD$3.90 again in postage.
Size of the brown FKM O-Ring: CS (cross section thickness): 1.78mm, ID: 20.35mm (which means mathematically that the OD equates to 23.91mm).
Thus, I wait for the parts now, and then it's "Removal of Transmission", Part III.
Looking at it with humour: Maybe Jaguar should have added another switch on the dashboard with the 2 switch-options: "Drop transmission" and "Reassemble transmission". This switch would get quite a workout in my X-Type...
#6
And another update:
So, both (the oil pump seal behind the torque converter and the O-Ring sitting on the shaft, on which the torque converter sits) don't seem to have Jaguar Part Numbers:
I checked the Barratt X-Type catalogue, another Jaguar X-Type parts catalogue, britishparts, jaguarlandrover, google, ebay, and a Jatco JF506E repair manual - nothing!
O-Ring: As already written above: I measured the old one and ordered on ebay: brown FKM O-Ring: CS (cross section thickness): 1.78mm, ID: 20.35mm
Oil Pump Seal behind the torque converter: I found that on Aliexpress (see above). Normally, I never have issues on ALiexpress and its free postage - but the seller of that seal there had AUD10 postage and is incompetent - those parts will arrive too late. BUT I found a solution: I remembered that it is a good idea to ask at my local bearing-shop for that seal: I showed them a picture of that seal and gave them the dimensions: ID 42mm, OD 59mm, Thickness 8mm, and I received today 42x59x7.7mm. That will do.
So, both (the oil pump seal behind the torque converter and the O-Ring sitting on the shaft, on which the torque converter sits) don't seem to have Jaguar Part Numbers:
I checked the Barratt X-Type catalogue, another Jaguar X-Type parts catalogue, britishparts, jaguarlandrover, google, ebay, and a Jatco JF506E repair manual - nothing!
O-Ring: As already written above: I measured the old one and ordered on ebay: brown FKM O-Ring: CS (cross section thickness): 1.78mm, ID: 20.35mm
Oil Pump Seal behind the torque converter: I found that on Aliexpress (see above). Normally, I never have issues on ALiexpress and its free postage - but the seller of that seal there had AUD10 postage and is incompetent - those parts will arrive too late. BUT I found a solution: I remembered that it is a good idea to ask at my local bearing-shop for that seal: I showed them a picture of that seal and gave them the dimensions: ID 42mm, OD 59mm, Thickness 8mm, and I received today 42x59x7.7mm. That will do.
#7
Before you put the seal in trans check it's a good fit on the removed converter.
Parts that should fit right but don't happen all the time.
Late now but if you've never used rockauto give them a try.
Even if you don't buy from them it's a great part number resource as they use many different suppliers...
Good luck!
Parts that should fit right but don't happen all the time.
Late now but if you've never used rockauto give them a try.
Even if you don't buy from them it's a great part number resource as they use many different suppliers...
Good luck!
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#8
Yes, I already have been sliding the new seal over the torque converter carefully (before inserting the seal into the transmission), and it looks good (but the old seal also looked good).
I.e. the tranny is off now (for the 3rd time) and I am waiting for the O-Ring to arrive.
Btw.: I am not sure anymore, if I swapped the O-Ring the first time around. Maybe I was not able to buy a new one back then - and maybe that is my leak...
I.e. the tranny is off now (for the 3rd time) and I am waiting for the O-Ring to arrive.
Btw.: I am not sure anymore, if I swapped the O-Ring the first time around. Maybe I was not able to buy a new one back then - and maybe that is my leak...
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