I've decided to buy an XJ8, and have read some of the online chatter about common issues among the various years of production, with 2003, and last year of production being the most bug-free. In a perfect world, that's what I'd get. But, there are always tradeoffs. I'm looking for a rust-free likely southern US car in excellent mechanical and cosmetic condition. If I extend the search down to 2002, there are twice as many options. So, what are the principle advantages of the 2003 over the 2001 or 2002? Were there issues that were solved with each successive year of production?

I also prefer the Vandenplas longer wheelbase model, which further restricts choice.

Any on this forum have one such car that needs a new home? I'm in upstate NY, but distance is no object. I've bought cars all over the US and either flown out to drive them home, or had them shipped on a truck.

 

Your thinking is on the right track....a 2003 Vanden Plas would be
a great choice. That was my aim and it has turned out well.

 

Understood. But, what are the major differences between 2002 and 2003 (or for than matter 2001), and are they deal-breakers, or something that one might live with? For example, a transmission or engine that could be depended upon to flame out at 125,000 miles would keep me away from a model year with 80,000 miles, but perhaps not 50,000, as I'd be unlikely to put 50,000 miles on it.

 

I think the biggest differences would be you know a 2003 has the later chain tensioners & blades. The later water pump & thermostat tower. All upgradable, but the tensioners & blades are quite a big job.

 

Would it then be safe to assume that if these upgrades had already been made, that the 2001 and 2002 are essentially the same with respect to all other significant factors to the 2003?

 

Many owners fitted new tensioners to the early engines.
The 2002 MY with engines made after August 13 2001 have the 'good-parts'.

 

If the transmission is of concern, the XJR with the Mercedes transmission is a wish choice also and they’re available in a Vanden Plas trim as well. And no, you cannot put the Mercedes transmission from a S/C car into an N/A car. All the 02’+ model years also had the upgraded head gaskets. The S/C cars all had the aluminum thermostat housing. The N/A cars never had a factory aluminum thermostat housing. They do make an aftermarket aluminum thermostat housing for the N/A engines though.

 

The supercharged version might be a bit more car than I'm looking for, and would seem to solve some problems, but introduce others.

I'm not so worried about a transmission rebuild someday, particularly as one can pick up an XJ8 for substantially less than anything comparable from another maker. So, if the transmission needs a rebuild, ah well.... I'll just get it fixed with the money left over from not buying a Mercedes. I'd only squander the money on food, shelter and family otherwise. I've seen a few 2002 and 2003 XJ8s advertised that are pushing 175,000 miles, which gives me hope.

 

ditto on the '03 VDP, or even an '02. my '03 VDP (51k, quartz metallic over charcoal interior) is in line for some age-related suspension work and tracking down an annoying driveline hum, but it's a great weekend and highway cruising car and it keeps picking up little plastic objects (awards) at British car shows.

 

 

OK, based on the above responses and some additional scrounging of posts from this forum, this is my understanding. Please correct me if I am wrong:

1. 2001, 2002, and 2003 XJ8 engines came with the updated metal chain tensioners.
2. 2003 XJ8 engines also had an improved thermostat and housing (tower?).

Did anything else of note change between 2001 and 2002, or 2002 and 2003?

I'm having more success in finding lower mileage XJ8 base models than a Van den plas, and so that third passenger might just have to suck it up on longer rides, if that ever happens.

I'm selling my 1993 Volvo 240 Classic wagon to fund the purchase, so this is a quantum leap forward in tech and comfort, if not durability (any takers here???).

 

The 4.0 AJ26/AJ27 Normally Aspirated engines have always had resin thermostat towers from the factory.

The aluminum housings are an aftermarket 'add-on' not authorized by the factory.
SuperCharged engines have a different cooling system in/out for the engine.(not resin)

 

I think you are a little overly concerned about the year model. Its the engine manufacture date that you must look for, not the year model. As Bob mentioned, you have to check the date on the motor itself that its after 8/13/01. That was right around model year changeover and its never been clear that any 2001s got the upgraded tensioners, nor that all of the early 2002s got them. That's why everyone just defaults to saying stick with a 2003 because that's the only model year we're sure all got them. But after 22 years, its not the most important factor to look for. As we tell all newbies the most important thing is "No Records = No Sale".

Don't just discard a 2002 if you see a nice one listed for sale, or even a 98 to 01 because chances are if its still running today and has more than a handful of miles on it, then the tensioners were changed a decade ago. Otherwise it wouldn't still be here for sale, it would be in a junkyard somewhere. Just make sure to buy one that has maintenance records that INCLUDE a receipt for tensioner replacement as well as regular fluid services, brakes, hoses, belt, hoses, bushings, hoses, T-stat, hoses (I can't say hoses enough times because there's about a mile of them hidden between the firewall and bellhousing).

And at this age, the 2003 may not be that much of an advantage anymore anyway because its not just the tensioners that go bad. The timing chain guides are all covered in a similar hard plastic. Twenty years ago when Jaguar engineers realized that plastic was not the right material for tensioner bodies, the plastic chain guides were all still fine, but after 20+ years the plastic guides are at the age where even with low miles, they're starting to crack, just like my old face in the mirror. When the cracks get big enough, chunks break off, then its chain steel against the aluminum backing plates and that's not good. On top of that, the front main oil seal is well past its designed useful service life and would be miraculous if its not leaking. Any 23 year old Jaguar is really due to have the front timing cover off, seals and guides replaced about now anyway. So even if you buy a 2003, you're likely going to have to do the job when you see all the oil on your driveway or hear the chain rattle.

As to the transmission, we believe that you can prevent the catastrophic failure of the A-drum (or at least postpone it by many years) by rebuilding the valve body with an upgraded main pressure relief piston. Sonnax and Transgo have upgrade solutions, but I believe the best option is to just replace with OEM ZF parts which supposedly have been re-designed. Transmission doesn't have to come out, rather you just drop the pan and remove the valve body, hardly a few more steps beyond a fluid and filter service, which any car you purchase may be due for anyway.

Because all these jobs are expensive and the cars not worth much, its typical for people to buy them cheap, drive them as-is and take their chances. Its called "deferred maintenance". Somebody on here ten years ago posted (wish I could remember who to give credit) that these really were $10,000 used cars, just you paid $5,000 to the seller and $5,000 to your mechanic. Today its probably more like $7,000 or $8,000 to each. But better yet is to just be patient and buy one that the seller has receipts to prove that all the recommended maintenance has actually been done and not deferred. The good thing about Jaguars is that there were lots of enthusiastic and well-to-do owners who just paid whatever their mechanic said and didn't think twice about it. They're out there. Happy hunting!

 

Good advice all around. When I find the right car, it will be added to the stable of toys that I now drive: the aformentioned 1993 Volvo 240, a 1996 Cadillac Fleetwood V4P, and a 1996 Chevrolet Caprice wagon. When the Jaguar is added, the Volvo 240 will go (sadly, but I need to keep my wife). The Jaguar is unlikely to pile up a lot of miles. My daily driver is a Volvo XC70. The rest are for joyrides.... sometime 2,000 mile joyrides, but not daily commuting.

The learning curve on buying any classic car is steep. I'm there on the GM and Volvos, but still looking at a long upslope for an X308.

The comments on hoses are well made and well taken. I found this post on the forum, which is coincidentally what I went through on my other cars: replaced every single hose on every one of them. Why? Because no one wants to deal with a glycol geyser on a dark night in the rain. I think Steven King could write a book about that scenario. So, always work through the list of "stage 1" maintenance on any new aquisition.

I found this post on the forum to be informative on hose replacements. It is daunting, but not horrifying: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...jr-xj8-143779/. I assuem there are others out there on common repairs.

I haven't found a "sticky" on the forum for the above common issues. Rather than create the narrative anew, it might be useful for someone to make a sticky that contains the URLs of the best of the best advice, links to useful how-to-videos, etc.

I spent my career coming up great ideas to keep others busy!