A/C Problem with 2003 X-TYPE
#1
A/C Problem with 2003 X-TYPE
Hello Everyone!
My 2003 X-Type is blowing ambient air from the driver side vents (both center and left vents) The passenger sides works fine. Can anyone tell me why this is happening? I checked the actuator motors under the dash and they seem to be working fine. Could it be the inlet air blend door located under the A/C filter that remains open? Does anyone have this problem? Please HELP!
Thanks.
My 2003 X-Type is blowing ambient air from the driver side vents (both center and left vents) The passenger sides works fine. Can anyone tell me why this is happening? I checked the actuator motors under the dash and they seem to be working fine. Could it be the inlet air blend door located under the A/C filter that remains open? Does anyone have this problem? Please HELP!
Thanks.
#7
Sure, no problem DPK. I basically followed the instruction on a service bulletin that is posted on many threads pertaining to this problem. There are 3 a/c actuators that control the functions of the climate control. They are located behind the glove compartment. One on top, one right beneath and one at the rear closed to the firewall. The one your looking for is the rear. Disconnect connection, gently, pull it out and make sure your a/c is on to do the following: turn recycle air button on/off until it lines up straight, apply glue (Krazy Glue) on the small shaft and re-insert. Plug connections back and reinstall actuator back to original position. That should solve your problem. It solved mine. I hope this helps!
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DPK (06-27-2013)
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#9
#10
The Air Blend Door is what allows fresh air to come into the cabin. Mine was stuck open and I even had water leaking in. I saw one of the many threads posted here and it suggested to check mentioned door. Once I did this, I closed it and no more water leakage and it is a lot colder, inside. I live in Florida. It is up to you, if you want to do this. I hope this helps!
#12
It is suppose to close the outside air off and only allow the internal cabin air to recirculate, it closes like acerek said, when the recirculate button is pushed on, and opens when it is turned off..The recirculate feature is usually called MAX A/C on American cars.
#14
I just took my pollen filter out. I see a large rectangle vent and the rotor fan. I assume there may be a door up out site. Can you verify this? I assume I use a coat hanger bent properly to grab a door and pull it down? I will try that and also the super glue thing.
I hired this bozo to fill my freon, I was going to drop the compressor and the accumulator, and the orifice myself. The bozy said he would do it for 300. I paid him and when he did it, he didn't add the oil to the compressor. He stated his expensive Robiniar machine did it. I assumed he was correct but now I am finding out her wasnt. So JTIS says to remove the compressor, measure the oil in the compressor when you dump it out and add accordingly.
What I don't understand is it says if you are adding "new components" I assume dryer etc add oil to them. So do I figure out how much oil is in the components and add it?
I'm actually going to remove the compressor and dryer/accumulator/orifice again. The compressor is still working (it cycles on), and then I will flush the system again. The bozo with the Robinair machine said his machine flushes the system, but all the product was installed when he flushed it. Didn't make sense, but I didn't think he was that crooked. I was told that you can't flush with the comressor and all that on it.
So now I'm buying a new accumulator because I was told the new one I had is contaminated with r12 his machine mixed with r134, about 10% r12.
Now I'm just worried about the oil amount. I'm sure if I remove all the above, new accumulator and orifice, drain the pump oil flush the system
then
add the correct factory amount of PAG, 12 oz of r 134, then Bobs your uncle hey?
sound right? or is there a simpler way. I think I'm on point though.
What say any in the know?
I hired this bozo to fill my freon, I was going to drop the compressor and the accumulator, and the orifice myself. The bozy said he would do it for 300. I paid him and when he did it, he didn't add the oil to the compressor. He stated his expensive Robiniar machine did it. I assumed he was correct but now I am finding out her wasnt. So JTIS says to remove the compressor, measure the oil in the compressor when you dump it out and add accordingly.
What I don't understand is it says if you are adding "new components" I assume dryer etc add oil to them. So do I figure out how much oil is in the components and add it?
I'm actually going to remove the compressor and dryer/accumulator/orifice again. The compressor is still working (it cycles on), and then I will flush the system again. The bozo with the Robinair machine said his machine flushes the system, but all the product was installed when he flushed it. Didn't make sense, but I didn't think he was that crooked. I was told that you can't flush with the comressor and all that on it.
So now I'm buying a new accumulator because I was told the new one I had is contaminated with r12 his machine mixed with r134, about 10% r12.
Now I'm just worried about the oil amount. I'm sure if I remove all the above, new accumulator and orifice, drain the pump oil flush the system
then
add the correct factory amount of PAG, 12 oz of r 134, then Bobs your uncle hey?
sound right? or is there a simpler way. I think I'm on point though.
What say any in the know?
#15
vent behind the pollen filter
I simply turned on the recirc button and the white door closes on its own. I didnt' have to move it at all.
That isn't my problem. I will do the AC fluch and recharge and oil. Then all that is left is perhaps the actuators next to the glove box. I got to those. its a bit uncomfy working on your back but you can get to them in munites. JTIS has a pic and work sheet on how to get to them.
I changed the exhaust ac temp sensor that is near the actuators. I had to break off the tip of a flat head screw driver and weld it at a right angle to push in the plastic spring locks to remove it. otherwise its impossible. You have to make the tool about 3" or less and you just push in on each side and it pops out. otherwise you will break it.
That isn't my problem. I will do the AC fluch and recharge and oil. Then all that is left is perhaps the actuators next to the glove box. I got to those. its a bit uncomfy working on your back but you can get to them in munites. JTIS has a pic and work sheet on how to get to them.
I changed the exhaust ac temp sensor that is near the actuators. I had to break off the tip of a flat head screw driver and weld it at a right angle to push in the plastic spring locks to remove it. otherwise its impossible. You have to make the tool about 3" or less and you just push in on each side and it pops out. otherwise you will break it.
#18
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#20
Nice job on the link! Wow what a nugget that was! Not only is a Jag a cool car, the owners are very rational and helpfull. Not to many snide remarks in this forum by those who perceive themselves as supreme beings! I'm glad I purchased this vehicle!