C1145 Speed Wheel Sensor RF Input Circuit Failure
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#2
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RE: C1145 Speed Wheel Sensor RF Input Circuit Failure
The front sensors are easy to swap from left to right....
The message may be from cut or damages wiring, so take a careful look at it when the wheel is off.
If there is no obvious damage to the wiring, I would swap the sensors from left to right and see if the problem moves to the opposite side.
the pulse generator ring on the front wheels is part of the front wheel bearing and you probably would need to replace the entire front knuckle - much easier than doing just the bearing and not so expensive.
the ABS system self-clears its faults so you should be able to do some trouble shooting on your own.
keep us posted.. more ideas could come along.
The message may be from cut or damages wiring, so take a careful look at it when the wheel is off.
If there is no obvious damage to the wiring, I would swap the sensors from left to right and see if the problem moves to the opposite side.
the pulse generator ring on the front wheels is part of the front wheel bearing and you probably would need to replace the entire front knuckle - much easier than doing just the bearing and not so expensive.
the ABS system self-clears its faults so you should be able to do some trouble shooting on your own.
keep us posted.. more ideas could come along.
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RE: C1145 Speed Wheel Sensor RF Input Circuit Failure
as long as you don't have any bearing play in the right front wheel then i would swap.they maybe be corroded or seized in thehole,then swapsensor from left and right and then link harness as well... if that 's not it then you need a r/f wheel bearing
#7
I know it's been a while since this thred started, but...
I was having the same problem on my 02 X-Type 3.0 Sport. I replaced the wheel speed sensor first, still had the problem. Then I discovered a factory bulletin about this code. The wiring harness was the problem. I live in Connecticut and was able to get the harness for $34 from a local Jag dealer. 10 minutes later I was back in business, all codes resolved. My advice, if you have a code from either front wheel speed sensor, simply replace the harness first. It's the cheapest and easiest fix, and it will be the solution most of the time.
I was having the same problem on my 02 X-Type 3.0 Sport. I replaced the wheel speed sensor first, still had the problem. Then I discovered a factory bulletin about this code. The wiring harness was the problem. I live in Connecticut and was able to get the harness for $34 from a local Jag dealer. 10 minutes later I was back in business, all codes resolved. My advice, if you have a code from either front wheel speed sensor, simply replace the harness first. It's the cheapest and easiest fix, and it will be the solution most of the time.
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#8
I hate to bring an old thread back to life, but I'm dealing with this issue now and just got off the phone with my local Jag dealer. They've increased the price of that wire harness to over $97. I guess they saw the opportunity to make some extra money since there's such a big issue with this. Now I'm going to have to take more time to make sure that's the issue before I waste $100 hoping it's the issue.
#9
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You can do a resistance check of the wiring harness. That will tell you if that is good or not. Also, a visual of the harness should give a pretty good idea too. If you are thinking that it is the speed sensor, remove the sensor from the car, then connect a multimeter set to the VDC setting and then pass a large metal object near the tip of the sensor (screw driver, piece of steel, etc). You should see the multimeter jump about 1-2 volts. The amount of jump is relative to the speed and size of the piece of steel.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
#10
Thanks for the info. I'm probably going to just do the swap test this weekend and see what happens. I had problems trying to get my lug nuts loose, but that's another issue (thanks to Autozone, they "rent" a breaker bar for free).
One thing I had an issue with is finding part numbers, so let me add that for anyone else in the future that may have this issue:
The actual speed sensor: #c2s43216
ABS BRAKE HARNESS - #C2S26194
RH / LH FRONT BRAKE ABS SENSOR HARNESS
JAGUAR X-TYPE 2001 - 2003 END AT VIN D31039
ABS BRAKE HARNESS #C2S29893
RH / LH FRONT BRAKE ABS SENSOR HARNESS
JAGUAR X-TYPE 2003 - 2009 FROM VIN D13882
One thing I had an issue with is finding part numbers, so let me add that for anyone else in the future that may have this issue:
The actual speed sensor: #c2s43216
ABS BRAKE HARNESS - #C2S26194
RH / LH FRONT BRAKE ABS SENSOR HARNESS
JAGUAR X-TYPE 2001 - 2003 END AT VIN D31039
ABS BRAKE HARNESS #C2S29893
RH / LH FRONT BRAKE ABS SENSOR HARNESS
JAGUAR X-TYPE 2003 - 2009 FROM VIN D13882
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circa1976 (01-31-2014)
#11
Here's another thing that can be done on the sensor ring. I live in Northeast Pa, where we get a lot of snow and the stuff they put on the roads don't help, but the rings get dirty and a little cleaning goes a long way before you go and take everything apart and swap the sensors. I've done mine before and the fix was cheap a little time and some elbow grease....LOL We all spend time on our cats, well worth the time.
#12
In my case, swapping the sensors showed the problem was actually the cable. $100 later and I had the problem fixed (to be followed by two other completely unrelated problems that week). I'm not sure how much longer this car will last, but I'm not expecting any miracles. I'm pretty sure I'll never own another Jaguar, that's for sure.
#13
Thermo: After reading several posts on this R/F wheel speed sensor, it seems like you are the man to speak to about the issue. I have an ABS light on and code C1145, so I spent the day yesterday checking the R/F sensor.
The problem is, my multimeter wasn't working properly, so I was only able to check the continuity of the wiring harness (seemed ok). When I tried to test the senor directly I didn't get any readings for ohms or volts when passing a steel object across it.
So I cleaned the sensor thoroughly and put everything back together. Oddly, the light was out and cruise control worked for about 30 minutes on the way home and then the light come back on. Personally, I'm thinking the sensor is fouled up with metal shavings from inside the bearing, but I'm not sure. I plan to go out and buy a new multimeter today to check everything properly again. Any suggestions?
Jack
The problem is, my multimeter wasn't working properly, so I was only able to check the continuity of the wiring harness (seemed ok). When I tried to test the senor directly I didn't get any readings for ohms or volts when passing a steel object across it.
So I cleaned the sensor thoroughly and put everything back together. Oddly, the light was out and cruise control worked for about 30 minutes on the way home and then the light come back on. Personally, I'm thinking the sensor is fouled up with metal shavings from inside the bearing, but I'm not sure. I plan to go out and buy a new multimeter today to check everything properly again. Any suggestions?
Jack
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circa, when doing the voltage check, the voltage is going to change really quickly. So, having an analog meter will be better or at a minimum a digital meter with the analog bar on the bottom. I would say to pull the sensor back out and re-clean the end. It may be you just simply need to let the magnet in the end collect the garbage and it will clear things up for you.
The last thing is to look at the plug and make sure the pins are nice and silver in color on both the sensor and the plug. A little bit of corrosion here can lead to big issues.
If you are getting metal shavings on the end of the sensor, then I would be looking at replacing the bearing here soon. NOrmally once you start getting metal shavings, the end is approaching fast.
The last thing is to look at the plug and make sure the pins are nice and silver in color on both the sensor and the plug. A little bit of corrosion here can lead to big issues.
If you are getting metal shavings on the end of the sensor, then I would be looking at replacing the bearing here soon. NOrmally once you start getting metal shavings, the end is approaching fast.
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circa1976 (02-04-2014)
#15
Wouldn't you know, on my way to buy a new multimeter, the light went out and hasn't been back on for a couple days now. Cruise control works and everything.
I will definitely get around to replacing both front end bearings this spring. Hopefully, she will hold it together until then. I do hate working in the snow. :-)
I will definitely get around to replacing both front end bearings this spring. Hopefully, she will hold it together until then. I do hate working in the snow. :-)
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It is what it is. I would say to spend a few extra dollars and get yourself a meter with the analog bar on the bottom. You won't use it all that often, but having it will make it worth every dime. I use a lot of the Fluke 289's and 117's at my work. The 289's are probably more meter than you need. But, it will also cost you. Do some looking around and see what you can find. I have been using my 117 in an industrial area and it has survived for 5 years. So, it will handle whatever you put it through. I have dropped it more times than I care to admit to.
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