cruise control & jerking
#22
Hi all,
Getting the same problems as listed above.
Took the panel off to check pipes as a matter of course really.
The straight pipe itself is intact however the flexipipe/elbow joint that runs from behind airfilter into what I think is the aforementioned PVC pipe has a lovely big split in it, would this cause the same issue?
I have tried to post a much more elaborate post and picture but lost the post and no idea how to post a picture up here as I dont have a webhost picture doo-da.
Thanks in advance for any help here
Getting the same problems as listed above.
Took the panel off to check pipes as a matter of course really.
The straight pipe itself is intact however the flexipipe/elbow joint that runs from behind airfilter into what I think is the aforementioned PVC pipe has a lovely big split in it, would this cause the same issue?
I have tried to post a much more elaborate post and picture but lost the post and no idea how to post a picture up here as I dont have a webhost picture doo-da.
Thanks in advance for any help here
If so, I would hazard a guess that you would indeed experience the same symptoms - check engine light, erratic running as described earlier in the thread.
Believe it or not my original pcv split last week and the split was almost exactly 3 inches. Crazy.
#26
Hi all,
Getting the same problems as listed above.
Took the panel off to check pipes as a matter of course really.
The straight pipe itself is intact however the flexipipe/elbow joint that runs from behind airfilter into what I think is the aforementioned PVC pipe has a lovely big split in it, would this cause the same issue?
I have tried to post a much more elaborate post and picture but lost the post and no idea how to post a picture up here as I dont have a webhost picture doo-da.
Thanks in advance for any help here
Getting the same problems as listed above.
Took the panel off to check pipes as a matter of course really.
The straight pipe itself is intact however the flexipipe/elbow joint that runs from behind airfilter into what I think is the aforementioned PVC pipe has a lovely big split in it, would this cause the same issue?
I have tried to post a much more elaborate post and picture but lost the post and no idea how to post a picture up here as I dont have a webhost picture doo-da.
Thanks in advance for any help here
But yea this problem happened to my car as well, it turned out the be the PCV hose & Valve along with some Vacuum Hoses that needed to be replaced and so far the Cruise Control Not Available and the jerking once increased acceleration has ceased.
#27
#29
#30
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
My mom jaguar s-type had that problem a few months ago. The car would cut off on us when the car stopped going like at a stop light or sign and it would kindof jerk when we would drive it. We got the sensor fixed around i think $2600 or something around it and then it started to drive like new again with no engine light on
#33
I am facing a similar issue, --I drive to work from central NJ to CT its a 100 mile run and the engine starts jerking once i have driven 50 plus miles I have tried to switch to sports mode there is no change it just wont stop jurking -today I stopped for few minutes in between the jerks went away but after running 20-25 miles I could feel them back. the the engine light came up, I did a acan and it came 'P2635 Fuel Pump "A" Low Flow / Performance'
I have already replaced the fuel pump and the fuel filter , but as some of you have been discussing about a hose leak... you mention there could be that one of the hoses are leaking and pulling in AIR, i don't know where to start looking could anybody please give me any assistance here
FYI
I had an issue with the hissing noise from the throttle body , I have replaced the o-rings.
I have already replaced the fuel pump and the fuel filter , but as some of you have been discussing about a hose leak... you mention there could be that one of the hoses are leaking and pulling in AIR, i don't know where to start looking could anybody please give me any assistance here
FYI
I had an issue with the hissing noise from the throttle body , I have replaced the o-rings.
#34
bb - start with the PCV hose that runs from the front of the intake toward the front of the car, next to the airbox. About 8 inches long and about a 1" diameter hose, give or take. Look for a split in that hose. You have to remove the plastic engine cover if you have one.
Next take a look at the brake booster hose - it is the hard plastic one with the check valve in it running from the intake over to the brake system assembly. There is a pic in the "whats this hose" thread and you'll see both of them.
Seems to be a rash of these two items leaking lately, must be due to everyone's X getting a little older.
Next take a look at the brake booster hose - it is the hard plastic one with the check valve in it running from the intake over to the brake system assembly. There is a pic in the "whats this hose" thread and you'll see both of them.
Seems to be a rash of these two items leaking lately, must be due to everyone's X getting a little older.
#35
Guest
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When mine had similar problem it was wrongly diagnosed by an autodiagnotsic guy at out bodyshop as the intake sensor (aka MAF sensor) so I bought one for £47 (probably nearly $100) from the dealer.Replacing it made no difference as the problem turned out to be a split pipe which cost £5 and took 2 mins to change.Check this pipe 1st as they commonly split underneath as oil lies in it from the crankcase breather before you go buying a MAF sensor.The new pipes are much sturdier and the dealer said they sell lots.
To check remove the plastic engine cover (a few philips screws) and the pipe is by the air intake and close to the MAF.Takes seconds to check and could save you money if thats the cause...here is where the pipe is....
If the pipe is OK then it could well be the MAF sensor as diagnosed.
To check remove the plastic engine cover (a few philips screws) and the pipe is by the air intake and close to the MAF.Takes seconds to check and could save you money if thats the cause...here is where the pipe is....
If the pipe is OK then it could well be the MAF sensor as diagnosed.
You be da man! This fixed the problem with my 2003 X-Type. Went from bucking to smooth..........
Thanks very much! Otis
#36
Hi I recently got a Jag X-type and from reading this thread I replaced the PVC pipe. I got one from the dealer in Tucson for $16. Two mins to install. Good call! The OG pipe is just a fiber-reinforced rubber tube, the new one is a black PVC molded part with clamps! Here's a pic of the two.
[IMG]file:///C:/Users/SHAWNP%7E1/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot-29.png[/IMG][IMG]file:///C:/Users/SHAWNP%7E1/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot-30.png[/IMG]
[IMG]file:///C:/Users/SHAWNP%7E1/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot-29.png[/IMG][IMG]file:///C:/Users/SHAWNP%7E1/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot-30.png[/IMG]
#37
hi i also had this problem and after looking at Buckmr2 photo found a split that ran almost the entire length of this hose, don't know if it is rectified but the cruise control unavailable and engine management light went off immediately, my question is my car has been showing P0430 and P0420 emission control problems, could the split in this pipe also been the reason for these engine codes ?
#38
Those 2 codes will definately be related to the split pipe (had them on mine when the hose was split).The chances of 2 different sensors on different engine banks going at the same time are minimal.
Unmetered air gets into the system through the split and causes incorrect readings from the 2 lambda sensors upstream of the cats.
Im sure once you replace the pipe (or tape it temporarily) within a few cold-hot drive cycles the MIL will extinguish.
Unmetered air gets into the system through the split and causes incorrect readings from the 2 lambda sensors upstream of the cats.
Im sure once you replace the pipe (or tape it temporarily) within a few cold-hot drive cycles the MIL will extinguish.
#39
I had the same issue of the 'Engine Management' Light coming on, then the 'Cruise not Activated' warning showing, with the amber light under the speedo.
The amber light and Cruise text would disappear once I'd driven a while - and if I drove past 3,000 RPM, it would judder like when hitting the rev limiter.
I looked up the issue on this site and cross referenced it to some other sites and narrowed it down to the PCV hose as the likely issue.
I lifted the bonnet with the engine running and heard a hissing sound - which I located as being right near the PCV hose. I turned off the engine and removed the plastic engine cover - checked the hose and it was intact.
I realised that the end of the hose that runs into the cast metal area at the bulkhead end (?manifold / injectors) had pulled away from the metal flange which had a rubber 'collar' around it, so was not giving a good seal (mine was the hose that had no jubilee clip at this end of the hose, and was just a push-fit onto the metal.
I resecured this, by stretching the end of the hose back over the rubber 'collar' and pushed it all back over the metal pipe/flange bit sticking out from the cast metal (sorry, my mechanical terminology isn't great).
The Cruise Not Active warning never came back on again - but the Engine Management light stayed on...
I was going to go to a mechanic, to get this reset - but recalled the info about the light self-exstinguishing after a five starts. I turned it over five times and it stayed on...
But, I drove it properly about 3 times over the next day - and the light has now gone out!
I reckon I've saved myself about £100-200 in diagnostic and 'repair' work (when all they needed to do was push a hose back on).
Thanks to BuckMR2 and all the others, for the advice in this thread. I hope my own contribution will help someone else to confirm this problem if they get it...
Steve.
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BuckMR2 (04-17-2013)
#40