How to replace the blend door
#1
How to replace the blend door
Hi,
I've looked throughout the forum and found a bunch on how to re-glue the door to the actuator, but I have a worse problem.
I pulled the actuator and as I was testing the door I pushed the fitting into the box. I didn't think I pushed hard but nonetheless it's gone. How do I fix this? I'm assuming that the door is broken and will need to be replaced. Does someone have the instructions on how to do this?
Thanks
I've looked throughout the forum and found a bunch on how to re-glue the door to the actuator, but I have a worse problem.
I pulled the actuator and as I was testing the door I pushed the fitting into the box. I didn't think I pushed hard but nonetheless it's gone. How do I fix this? I'm assuming that the door is broken and will need to be replaced. Does someone have the instructions on how to do this?
Thanks
#2
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
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rkenney, I don't think you are going to like what I have to say, but this is the short of what is going to need to be done. You are going to end up removing the whole dash so you can open up the column with the bar and put it back into place. So, unless you can reach in through the hole and pull the bar back into place or you can reach up on the driver's side and guide the bar back into the hole, there are not many other options out there.
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Pinecone (02-09-2014)
#3
rkenney, I don't think you are going to like what I have to say, but this is the short of what is going to need to be done. You are going to end up removing the whole dash so you can open up the column with the bar and put it back into place. So, unless you can reach in through the hole and pull the bar back into place or you can reach up on the driver's side and guide the bar back into the hole, there are not many other options out there.
You said unless you can reach up through the drivers side - Where do I need to look on that side to see if I can?
#4
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rkenney, you are going to be essentially putting your head by the gas pedal and then looking up, back behind the radio. Then you are looking for a shaft sticking out that side that you can grab on to that and then you have to work on trying to get the other end lined up with the hole. Not going to be the easiest job, but even if you spent an hour doing this, it will save you tons of time in the end.
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rkenney (02-09-2014)
#5
rkenney, you are going to be essentially putting your head by the gas pedal and then looking up, back behind the radio. Then you are looking for a shaft sticking out that side that you can grab on to that and then you have to work on trying to get the other end lined up with the hole. Not going to be the easiest job, but even if you spent an hour doing this, it will save you tons of time in the end.
Thermo,
Thanks so much. I will give that a try.
Russ
#6
Russ, I'm in the same boat as you.
I tried to fix my blend door last fall and heard the dreaded 'click' as the damn part fell inside. After cursing like a sailor for a few minutes I decided to wait under the spring and warm weather to try to figure out what to do about it.
So let me (us) know how it went to try and get that rigged back up again.
And thanks Thermo for the info on the fix!
Tom
#7
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#8
Hey,
Ok, so the weather here today was nice enough to try to work on this again. I looked up behind the radio and all along the plastic that I am assuming is the air chamber and didn't see anything that was sticking out. Is it hidden or hard to see? I had my head right by the gas pedal and look up all the way.
I've thought about getting a video scope to look in through the hole where the actuator is, but now I'm wondering if the part did break and is laying at the bottom...lol would be my luck.
Ok, so the weather here today was nice enough to try to work on this again. I looked up behind the radio and all along the plastic that I am assuming is the air chamber and didn't see anything that was sticking out. Is it hidden or hard to see? I had my head right by the gas pedal and look up all the way.
I've thought about getting a video scope to look in through the hole where the actuator is, but now I'm wondering if the part did break and is laying at the bottom...lol would be my luck.
#9
Russ, I heard Tenn. had more snow and cold so you must have had a lucky break between storms to work on it that day.
It's still way too miserable here in Maine to even think about checking into my blend door problem. (-2 degrees F. at the moment) So I'm hoping you'll learn more about the options to fix this and if you can do it...I'll send you something nice for your investigative efforts!
And anyone else that contributes to the final fix. I'm in the same boat as you and am eagerly hoping for a D-I-Y ending to this story.
Tom
#11
I found myself in a similar situation while troubleshooting why I'm not getting any air to the face vents. Turns out the whole blend door broke off inside the air box. Has anyone successfully removed or replaced the blend door inside the air box without removing the whole assembly?
The original thread is here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...tional-141907/
The original thread is here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...tional-141907/
#12
Okay, here's a question.
How do I "Ensure the air inlet blend door is in the fresh air position."?
After reading these posts I am very hesitant to mess around in there.
I got the actuator off and centered. (Mine seemed to be coated with flour, which I suppose used to be glue.)
I just don't want to be fumbling around in there and mess it up. Is there an obvious way that I know the door is open before I glue it back up?
Thanks!
How do I "Ensure the air inlet blend door is in the fresh air position."?
After reading these posts I am very hesitant to mess around in there.
I got the actuator off and centered. (Mine seemed to be coated with flour, which I suppose used to be glue.)
I just don't want to be fumbling around in there and mess it up. Is there an obvious way that I know the door is open before I glue it back up?
Thanks!
#13
jaggedy: To confirm the air inlet blend door is in the fresh air position:
1) Remove the actuator from the air box
2) Keep it plugged into the electrical connector
3) On the passenger control panel, press the button for fresh air, then recirculated air, then back to fresh air, while observing the direction the actuator rotates to the fresh air position
4) Rotate the air damper door in the same direction for fresh air, while being careful not to press to hard on the end of the shaft.
This post has a pdf of all 4 actuators. Actuator #1 controls the fresh air door: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...4/#post1070603
Good luck.
1) Remove the actuator from the air box
2) Keep it plugged into the electrical connector
3) On the passenger control panel, press the button for fresh air, then recirculated air, then back to fresh air, while observing the direction the actuator rotates to the fresh air position
4) Rotate the air damper door in the same direction for fresh air, while being careful not to press to hard on the end of the shaft.
This post has a pdf of all 4 actuators. Actuator #1 controls the fresh air door: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...4/#post1070603
Good luck.
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JagFin (09-01-2016)
#14
Thanks. Gee, I hope I am working on the right actuator. I was following the instructions on that TSB since I can't hear any difference when the recirc is on or off, and the driver side vents don't push cold air.
That picture of number one looks exactly like what I am working on, but the arrow points to a completely different place.
The actuator I am trying to play with is on that cylindrical part under the glove box in the passenger footwell. I am walking on eggshells after reading of people's experiences pushing something into the box. (Having made those kinds of mistakes myself.) I am trying to find an appropriate hex wrench that mimics the actuator shaft now.
What I don't quite get is the instructions show how to line up the actuator shaft right in the middle (it can go quite a ways in either direction from there, and does when the recirc button is pressed and released) but at the same time seem to indicate that the blend door should be pushed all the way to the open position before gluing. It seems that by doing this I am actually misaligning it.
Curious.
That picture of number one looks exactly like what I am working on, but the arrow points to a completely different place.
The actuator I am trying to play with is on that cylindrical part under the glove box in the passenger footwell. I am walking on eggshells after reading of people's experiences pushing something into the box. (Having made those kinds of mistakes myself.) I am trying to find an appropriate hex wrench that mimics the actuator shaft now.
What I don't quite get is the instructions show how to line up the actuator shaft right in the middle (it can go quite a ways in either direction from there, and does when the recirc button is pressed and released) but at the same time seem to indicate that the blend door should be pushed all the way to the open position before gluing. It seems that by doing this I am actually misaligning it.
Curious.
Last edited by jaggedy; 06-04-2015 at 01:26 PM.
#15
Okay, I may have posted to the wrong thread. I found the right thread for my specific issue: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...w-foggy-30889/
Just in case anyone is reading this thread for my particular issue, one can check that the belnd door is open by removing the pollen filter in the engine compartment and then pushing the now visible door open (if closed) with a long screw driver.
I am about to go attempt this now.
Just in case anyone is reading this thread for my particular issue, one can check that the belnd door is open by removing the pollen filter in the engine compartment and then pushing the now visible door open (if closed) with a long screw driver.
I am about to go attempt this now.
#16
Jaggedy I know it's been six months so excuse me for dragging up old subjects. please describe how you pushed the door that is behind pollen filter to the open position. I put pressure on mine and it hadn't opened for me and I am afraid to put too much pressure on it. Does it push straight back or does it rotate and slide? You used a long screw driver and I plan on a long wooden dowel. Thank you
#17
Jaggedy I know it's been six months so excuse me for dragging up old subjects. please describe how you pushed the door that is behind pollen filter to the open position. I put pressure on mine and it hadn't opened for me and I am afraid to put too much pressure on it. Does it push straight back or does it rotate and slide? You used a long screw driver and I plan on a long wooden dowel. Thank you
I actually was never able to get the actuator back on after I confirmed that it was in opened position, so I just put the vent in closed position to get the most out of my AC and called it a day. I live in a hot location.
This is because I put a bunch of glue on it to install it and ended up fumbling around with it so much to get it repositioned that the glue dried before it was installed. Just a word to the wise...
In regards to your question, I used a very long screwdriver, but something like a coat hanger wire would work fine, too, I think.
If I recall correctly it kind of rotated up and down. It moved easily, but my actuator was disconnected. I didn't break any of that plastic grill in back of the filter to do it, but I think some people have gone that route.
When I lifted the cowel to get at it, I ended up breaking some weather stripping under there which is a big concern for me, because I don't want water to get under there and wreck my tcm or anything else.
I put some black electrical tape on the cowel where it meets the windshield, but that looks a little jaggedy... I am trying to figure out a better solution. The cowels I saw on ebay were all broken in the same way, so I am not the only person to make this mistake.
Water under the dash can cause a lot of trouble...
#18
#19
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x-type-x400-14/air-inlet-door-actuator-alternative-alignment-than-tsb-156851/#post1391794