What is this Intake Manifold Cable?
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91stealthes (12-05-2014)
#3
Thanks Thermo. Do I need more than the hose? It's actually broken entirely free, see photo for the location of the break. It can lift it totally off and hear air escaping.
I haven't played with it yet, but does the part that goes into the manifold unscrew, or do I need to remove the manifold?
What exactly does it do anyway? Is the other hose on the intake manifold the same?
Thanks!
I haven't played with it yet, but does the part that goes into the manifold unscrew, or do I need to remove the manifold?
What exactly does it do anyway? Is the other hose on the intake manifold the same?
Thanks!
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91stealthies, good news is you don't need to remove the intake manifold to make any repairs (short of you dropping something inside the hole). The hose should go into a plastic retainer (the black plastic piece that is about 1/16" tall right at the surface of the intake and then has a few "teeth" that go into the intake manifold) and the fact of the hose being in there is what forces the teeth out to hold the hose in place. In the ideal world, to remove this, you would need to hold the ring on the outside down and then lift up on the hose. This causes the teeth to disengage and allow the hose to be removed. In your case, you need a new set of teeth.
Like was mentioned, you can silicon it in place and be fine until you would need to remove it. But, this isn't one of those things that you need to remove other than for say removing the intake manifold for any maintenance.
As for what that hose does. This line goes to a purge solenoid. This is what tests the gas tank to see if there is a leak in the tank (those pesky small/large evap leak codes that some of us get). In short, when your gas tank is between 3/4 and 1/4, the computer will open the solenoid valve and draw a slight vacuum on the gas tank. It will then close the solenoid valve and see if the pressure is maintained by monitoring the vacuum in the gas tank. If the vacuum falls (goes towards ambient pressure) too fast, then it will look at how fast it went away and then determine the size of the leak. In the case I had, the solenoid valve was stuck shut and it never drew a vacuum, therefore, when it did its check, it essentially saw that my tank lost its vacuum almost instantaneously and therefore I had a large leak (and a CEL).
If you have more questions, let me know.
Like was mentioned, you can silicon it in place and be fine until you would need to remove it. But, this isn't one of those things that you need to remove other than for say removing the intake manifold for any maintenance.
As for what that hose does. This line goes to a purge solenoid. This is what tests the gas tank to see if there is a leak in the tank (those pesky small/large evap leak codes that some of us get). In short, when your gas tank is between 3/4 and 1/4, the computer will open the solenoid valve and draw a slight vacuum on the gas tank. It will then close the solenoid valve and see if the pressure is maintained by monitoring the vacuum in the gas tank. If the vacuum falls (goes towards ambient pressure) too fast, then it will look at how fast it went away and then determine the size of the leak. In the case I had, the solenoid valve was stuck shut and it never drew a vacuum, therefore, when it did its check, it essentially saw that my tank lost its vacuum almost instantaneously and therefore I had a large leak (and a CEL).
If you have more questions, let me know.
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91stealthes (12-08-2014)
#6
on a side note,
looking at the picture you posted i noticed the clip that holds the pipe to your coolant tank (the small one at the back) is pointing up I would recommend turning it so it is pointing toward the front of the car as the insulation on the hood puts pressure on the clip and it will eventually break the plastic nipple on your coolant tank. resulting in you needing to replace it.
looking at the picture you posted i noticed the clip that holds the pipe to your coolant tank (the small one at the back) is pointing up I would recommend turning it so it is pointing toward the front of the car as the insulation on the hood puts pressure on the clip and it will eventually break the plastic nipple on your coolant tank. resulting in you needing to replace it.
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#7
91stealthies, good news is you don't need to remove the intake manifold to make any repairs (short of you dropping something inside the hole). The hose should go into a plastic retainer (the black plastic piece that is about 1/16" tall right at the surface of the intake and then has a few "teeth" that go into the intake manifold) and the fact of the hose being in there is what forces the teeth out to hold the hose in place. In the ideal world, to remove this, you would need to hold the ring on the outside down and then lift up on the hose. This causes the teeth to disengage and allow the hose to be removed. In your case, you need a new set of teeth.
Like was mentioned, you can silicon it in place and be fine until you would need to remove it. But, this isn't one of those things that you need to remove other than for say removing the intake manifold for any maintenance.
As for what that hose does. This line goes to a purge solenoid. This is what tests the gas tank to see if there is a leak in the tank (those pesky small/large evap leak codes that some of us get). In short, when your gas tank is between 3/4 and 1/4, the computer will open the solenoid valve and draw a slight vacuum on the gas tank. It will then close the solenoid valve and see if the pressure is maintained by monitoring the vacuum in the gas tank. If the vacuum falls (goes towards ambient pressure) too fast, then it will look at how fast it went away and then determine the size of the leak. In the case I had, the solenoid valve was stuck shut and it never drew a vacuum, therefore, when it did its check, it essentially saw that my tank lost its vacuum almost instantaneously and therefore I had a large leak (and a CEL).
If you have more questions, let me know.
Like was mentioned, you can silicon it in place and be fine until you would need to remove it. But, this isn't one of those things that you need to remove other than for say removing the intake manifold for any maintenance.
As for what that hose does. This line goes to a purge solenoid. This is what tests the gas tank to see if there is a leak in the tank (those pesky small/large evap leak codes that some of us get). In short, when your gas tank is between 3/4 and 1/4, the computer will open the solenoid valve and draw a slight vacuum on the gas tank. It will then close the solenoid valve and see if the pressure is maintained by monitoring the vacuum in the gas tank. If the vacuum falls (goes towards ambient pressure) too fast, then it will look at how fast it went away and then determine the size of the leak. In the case I had, the solenoid valve was stuck shut and it never drew a vacuum, therefore, when it did its check, it essentially saw that my tank lost its vacuum almost instantaneously and therefore I had a large leak (and a CEL).
If you have more questions, let me know.
Any chance you know the name of the part or the part number of the plastic piece that goes into the intake manifold?
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91Stealthies, I am assuming you are talking about P0171 and P0174 (not P1171 and P1174). If you have the piece leaking, then you will get those 2 codes. So, once you fix this problem, the P0171/174 codes will fix themselves. The P1111 code is saying that all is good and all checks are completed sat.
The shutter that you are feeling is most likely the car going into limp mode and that is causing the engine RPMs to be limited to 3000 RPM which can feel like you are having engine issues.
As for the plastic piece, I am not finding a listing for the tube. But, if you call up a place like JPLV, if you tell them that you need the vacuum tube between the intake manifold and the purge valve, they will know the piece that you need and will be able to get it for you.
The shutter that you are feeling is most likely the car going into limp mode and that is causing the engine RPMs to be limited to 3000 RPM which can feel like you are having engine issues.
As for the plastic piece, I am not finding a listing for the tube. But, if you call up a place like JPLV, if you tell them that you need the vacuum tube between the intake manifold and the purge valve, they will know the piece that you need and will be able to get it for you.
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91stealthes (12-08-2014)
#9
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91stealthes (12-09-2014)
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#11
Thanks for the offer to get it off, but probably not worth your time. Part is about $10 at JPLV.
#12
So, I am still trying to figure out the part number for the actual hose and get a good picture of it. The part that is broken on mine, doesn't look like it's part of the hose, so I need to figure out if it comes with the hose.
Currently, I just have electrical tape wrapped around it, and I no longer go into limp mode, so maybe it's my permanent fix, haha.
Currently, I just have electrical tape wrapped around it, and I no longer go into limp mode, so maybe it's my permanent fix, haha.
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91stealthies, yours looks different than mine. If you look at the connector that goes into the intake manifold for the brake booster line, I have that same sort of fitting going into the port in question. It almost looks like someone made a previous "fix" to a similar problem.
I would think that if you gave the dealership the year and VIN of your car, the part that you are going to get will be the correct one to replace that hose. I would get it in your hands and see what you have at that point.
I would think that if you gave the dealership the year and VIN of your car, the part that you are going to get will be the correct one to replace that hose. I would get it in your hands and see what you have at that point.
#14
Thanks Thermo.
I noticed that the brake booster and purge inlets into the manifold were different. Are you saying yours has the same "elbow"?
If it was fixed, it was fixed without my knowledge, but it does look like someone tried to epoxy it at some point. I am the original owner, and it's only been serviced at Jaguar, other than my recent engine swap (they told it was fixed before they took it apart).
I have called a couple dealers to get a photo of the part before I order it, as it's ~$130, but no one has the part. And, unfortunately, the diagrams don't show the elbow, so who knows if it comes with it. One dealer told me that Madison Jaguar had one, so I called them in NJ, but they were less than helpful and not willing to go pull the part to provide me with a photo. In my opinion, that is the worst possible service you could provide. It would be interesting to hear from anyone that has personally dealt with them.
The gentleman from a different thread on here that said he ordered it, hasn't been active since his last post in that thread in 2013. So, unfortunately, I can't ask him how it worked out.
I have they company I ordered all my parts from trying to track a photo down, but they aren't having much luck either, as they don't carry it.
Is there any reason why electrical tape is a bad option? I mean, it's working and it's tight. Now, I understand it will get brittle over time, but I could then replace it.
I noticed that the brake booster and purge inlets into the manifold were different. Are you saying yours has the same "elbow"?
If it was fixed, it was fixed without my knowledge, but it does look like someone tried to epoxy it at some point. I am the original owner, and it's only been serviced at Jaguar, other than my recent engine swap (they told it was fixed before they took it apart).
I have called a couple dealers to get a photo of the part before I order it, as it's ~$130, but no one has the part. And, unfortunately, the diagrams don't show the elbow, so who knows if it comes with it. One dealer told me that Madison Jaguar had one, so I called them in NJ, but they were less than helpful and not willing to go pull the part to provide me with a photo. In my opinion, that is the worst possible service you could provide. It would be interesting to hear from anyone that has personally dealt with them.
The gentleman from a different thread on here that said he ordered it, hasn't been active since his last post in that thread in 2013. So, unfortunately, I can't ask him how it worked out.
I have they company I ordered all my parts from trying to track a photo down, but they aren't having much luck either, as they don't carry it.
Is there any reason why electrical tape is a bad option? I mean, it's working and it's tight. Now, I understand it will get brittle over time, but I could then replace it.
#15
Part number for the hose is C2S16505.
After I learned the part number, I reached out to Guadin Motor Company (is this JPLV?) and they had one going out the door that they were able to snap a photo of. The part does in fact have an elbow at both ends. It is interesting that the elbow part looks different than what is on my car, but the part number hasn't been superseded.
Probably is a good idea to get the brass fitting as well, C2S15816.
After I learned the part number, I reached out to Guadin Motor Company (is this JPLV?) and they had one going out the door that they were able to snap a photo of. The part does in fact have an elbow at both ends. It is interesting that the elbow part looks different than what is on my car, but the part number hasn't been superseded.
Probably is a good idea to get the brass fitting as well, C2S15816.
Last edited by 91stealthes; 12-11-2014 at 12:44 PM. Reason: Added photo
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#19
Here is the part I received, which seems identical to what is currently on my vehicle. Still part number C2S16505 too.
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