I will personally send someone $50 via paypal if you please help me with my 02 Jaguar X-type. With that said here is the story of how I became frustratedjagowner. lol

My wife and I bought this car about a year ago used with about 68,000 miles from a local used car lot. 2 days after we bought it, it started sputtering when you accelerated quickly. So I took it back to the lot and they "fixed it". What I later learned is they rigged the vacuum line between the pcv valve. I later replaced it with the correct ribbed hose which cost $38 from the dealer. A couple days later the infamous "cruise unavailable" light came on out of the blue. This didnt affect anything but just making sure you know everything I know. About 6 months later the car started running hot. After careful inspection I found a hairline crack in the upper radiator hose (the hard plastic connection where the thermostat is) so I replaced the whole upper radiator hose for $186. Not even a week later the radiator started leaking in the top corner, so I replaced it $468. During all this time we tried to drive the car as little as possible but when we had to drive it we did. Now with all that done all was well. I checked the maintanace records and it was time to change the plugs. It was also running a little sluggish so I replaced the plugs. Now heres the problem, after replacing the plugs I started the car and it idled really high 2000-3000 rpms. I quickly shut the car off and inspected everything and it looked fine so I restarted the car and now the "engine systems failure and gearbox fault" lights are on. It starts and quickly shuts off. I am totally clueless on what to do next. I understand my mechanical limits and now I am hoping one of you guys can help. I did try to remove the battery for a week hoping to reset the cpu but for some reason it didnt reset, my radio stations are still programmed.

 

maybe your location in the world might help someone, find you some help?????????

that was free advice by the way.....

 

LOL done!

 

I would flip on the used car guys lol. But get a code scaner and get it scanned, therres not point shooting int he dark with out a light.

 

Friend just changed his plugs last week. Tried to drive it after, found same problem as you. I told him if it ran before you touched it, then you moved or touched something near the plugs such as a vacuum hose. He found just that a line he moved to get a plug out cracked. Replaced small piece of hose now runs great. Not saying it's your problem but it's worth a look. Hope it helps.

Rich

 

Check the Vacuum line, check valve and connectors(manifold and Brake booster end) to the Brake Booster for leaks/cracks..

 

Hey there FJO....re the reset you're after.
I seem toremember sumthin being posted about this in the X type section, may be in the X type quick FAQ links about removing a certain fuse ( possibly numbered48, but would need to check ) and this does a hard reset on the ECU......Try a search and see if you can find it

 

Frustrated, i feel your pain.

you changed the plugs your self, so im guessing you changed the throttle body gasket, and upper intake manifold gaskets. did you replace the IMT valve o-rings as well?
these are known to be silent killers of performance

how did the throttle body look? was it brown or blackened with carbon?
i cleaned mine with a clean rag and wiped gently untill the shine of the bore was visible.
no solvents though,there is a clear enamel applied inside

check the mass air flow sensor, right next to battery box mounted in the intake. take the screws out and clean if dirty.

your problem could be be wrong plugs. what brand/number did you use?

possibly be fuel issue as well, especially if you removed the lower fuel intake rail, and disrupted the fuel injection system. maybe bad gas? x-types handbook i have states 95 octane. best i can find is 93. also on gas subject, ive put 21000 mi on my car and two fuel filters. puralator makes one for around 11 bucks and take five minutes and a ratchet. fuel line has quick disconnect couplings

recheck the bolts for the upper intake manifold. theres six bolts on top, three of which screw into the block, the other three into metal sleeves set into lower fuel rail manifold.
i tighten one of these too much and spun the sleeve, causing an air leak between the two manifolds. it idled high, and sputtered at 3000rpms.

in times of frustration, triple check whatever you did and make it better each time to rule everything out. look long enough and youll find whats wrong

 

Wow thank you for all of your responses. I will do each and every suggestion you guys have posted. It will take me a few days but I will post an update.

 

vac some where

 

change your glow plugs and air flow sensor

 

Your problems after plug replacement sound like an electrical connector that is either not connected properly or not connected at all. Considering you are getting the gearbox fault message I would look near the throttle body as any throttle body codes almost always cause gearbox faults.

 

He stated he already changed his plugs in his post, and we didn't get a diesel here in North America so they are not glow plugs, but rather spark plugs.

 

change your ignition coils,oxygen sensor by the front exhaust

 

Frustratedjagowner hasn't been online since 2/25...so maybe he's got the X torn apart. Sure wish he would drop by for an update.

Don't leave us hanging bud.

 

I would guess that there is a vacuum leak somewhere.
I dont think you need new manifold gaskets, as long as the old ones are cleaned up spotlessly. they are silicone and should last a very long time.

THe O-rings on the intake Manifold Tuning (IMT) valves have been known to leak. they are dirt cheap to replace.
As another test, unplug the hose to the brake booster and plug the hole.. make sure the check valve did not break.
Double check any place where air could leak into the manifold.

As far as the overheating problem. I dont believe that a teeny leak would cause you to over heat. Did the system get very low on coolant?
There are many of us that have had to change thermostats, and that is the most likely cause. they stick closed.
keep in mind that the temp gauge is a total LIAR!!! it does not move from the middle untill the car is already too hot. it can also bounce back and forth from pegged high to the middle if you are near a certain temp.
If you experience any other high temp issues I would chage the thermostat right away. If you are on the original thermostat, and at 100k miles. it is time to change it anyway.

If you want to enjoy this car, go spend a hundred bucks on a code reader. Mine has paid for itself over and over agin.

 

Hey guys sorry to leave you hanging I am trying to find time to mess with the car but its hard because I am working 2 full time jobs. I have noticed there is a vacuum line broken it comes from the rubber boot (sleeve) on the throttle body to behind and under the manifold. Could this be the issue? I still havent found a way to reset the ecu either. I touched the negative cable to the positive while connected to the battery and nothing????

 

vacuum leaks, even the slightest one will cause havoc to the fuel/air mixture for the car to regulate...fix and report back when you can.

 

Just a quick note, FJO. Vacuum issues will mess with *any* engine. I have had even small block chevy engines freak out (remember, they just didn't have computers on engines in '67) with cracked or kinked vacuum hoses. What you are describing sounds like a classic vacuum problem... it's just that sometimes these cars and their electronics really muddy up the waters when it comes to figuring things out. To me, this one sounds open and shut since you've found a cracked connection point. Best of luck!

 

Frustrated, I think I'm having an issue with that same hose - can't seem to find a name for it anywhere to order a replacement, runs from rear top of engine to ribbed air intake hose. Please share if you get a part # or name - mine is actually two hoses with a 90deg elbow connecting the two.
Thanks - and good luck!