[Emergency] Middle of brake job problems
#1
[Emergency] Middle of brake job problems
Hey all,
I am in the middle of a rotor and pad job on the X. I started with the rears and am stuck off the bat. I got the rotor off, but I can not compress the piston to get the caliper back on the new rotor. It might be because I am trying to compress the piston from the edge of it because, my c-clamp is too small. I undid the brake line and some fluid dripped out, but that piston will not budge. I am planning on going to get a larger C-clamp first thing tomorrow so I can center it on the piston - however, if there is any advice I would appreciate it.
Thanks dudes.
I am in the middle of a rotor and pad job on the X. I started with the rears and am stuck off the bat. I got the rotor off, but I can not compress the piston to get the caliper back on the new rotor. It might be because I am trying to compress the piston from the edge of it because, my c-clamp is too small. I undid the brake line and some fluid dripped out, but that piston will not budge. I am planning on going to get a larger C-clamp first thing tomorrow so I can center it on the piston - however, if there is any advice I would appreciate it.
Thanks dudes.
#2
#3
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Glasgow, Scotland UK
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RE: [Emergency] Middle of brake job problems
Here's a quote from another member doing the same job you might find useful bro
Hope it helps
Jim
"My experience is that the front disks usually need replacing at the same time as the pads, but the rear disks will last for 2 sets. Easy to check the disks, as you are no doubt aware, by how big the unworn ridge is at the edge. Front pads and disks are a doddle - standard technology. Rear brakes need the piston to be "wound" back in, with pressure applied, so that the handbrake mechanism gets reset OK. There's a special tool needed (try a Ford dealer) although I did mine with a big hex key from a central heating radiator installation kit! I've not changed the rear disks.
When doing the rear pads, be careful to note which way round the two notches on the piston are facing, although you can tell afterward from the marks on the back of the old pads (as long as you've kept them separate). Mine had the notch facing up on one side and down on the other, from the factory, but it doesn't seem to matter - it'll make more sense when you get it apart. The full instructions for the rear brakes are:
1. Remove clip holding hand-brake cable.
2. Unhook hand-brake cable end from bracket.
3. Remove bolt at 12 o’clock on rear of calliper (a rubber boot covers the bolt shaft)
4. Swing calliper down (towards the rear of the car)
5. Pop out old brake pads.
6. Push in and rotate piston on calliper to retract it (use needle nose pliers or a special tool)
Left side - anti-clockwise
Right side - clockwise
7. Align notch on piston with mark on calliper body.
8. Pop in new pads.
9. Swing calliper back in place.
10. Re-install bolt on rear of calliper at 12 o’clock (note that Jaguar recommend replacing the bolts with new).
11. Re-attach hand-brake cable end to bracket.
12. Re-install clip on hand-brake cable.
Good luck."
#5
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Glasgow, Scotland UK
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