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My check engine light came on a couple of days ago, with no symptoms of anything being wrong. This morning I got a message saying "cruise unavailable" and the car is lerching when you accellerate and acting starved.
You really need the codes read to try and do any sort of diagnosis. Try a local parts store like Autozone, pepboys etc. most will read codes for free. Many codes can cause the cruise unavailable message to appear. it just means the problem is bad enough that the ECM doesn't want you using the cruise control.
My check engine light came on today too and the car would lurch when accelerating.
I got it home and now it runs fine again but the light is still on. Was this some sort of glitch? How do I get the engine light off? Can I disconnect the batery to reset the computer ?
******update*****
The light finally went off with normal driving...all seems to be well now....no problems.
its better to have the codes read like what real_tech said, in that way you guys know whats causing all these and probably fix it before it gets worse.
Your right...the light is back again but there doesnt seem to be any problems. At first their was lurching like the computer was shutting down a few cylinders. After a restart that stopped along with the amber light and no cruise......all seems normal but now the engine light remains on.
My question is this : Will transmission problems cause the light to come on? Im not noticing any problems here but Im taking it to AAMCO tomorrow to have the codes read for free. (california sucks...autoparts stores cant read codes for free here)
Also....just out of curiousity and to confirm tomorrow what they tell me....what does this sound like?
(As a quick side note...I have 106K miles on my x-type 3.0 and have yet to change out the plugs.)
Fuel filter was replaced not long ago as well as the air filter and oil change. Thats about it!
Keep in mind that once the check engine light is turned on because of a problem, it will remain lit for the next 5 starts of the engine provided all faults are clear. With that being said, the codes will remain inside the computer to be read at some later date, regardless if the light is on or not.
I was taking a look in ALLDATAdiy.com and there are a few tests in there for you. It sounds like you may have a bad Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor. I attached a picture of it for your Jaguar X-Type. Check the connector and make sure you have a good connection.
It's pretty simple to use the search function yet every day there are new 'code' wTF is it threads.
It's one of only a few things, it's a vacuum leak, look under the freaking hood and you'll hear it.
It's a TCM fault, do a search, me and every other member here has given instructions on where it is and how it's fixed if it is not completely blown or it's serious and you're screwed take it to the dealership and bring a boatload of cash.
I have 2004 Jaguar X-type 2.5 classic (driver is on left side), manufactured on October 2003 ("passed" more than 130000 miles).
From spring 2017. I have constantly "check engine yellow light" , and I did not know how to solve problem, because scanning showes only one information detected: P1582 (that was inertia switch activated in November 2016.).
In Bosna i Hercegovina, there is no official Jaguar service ("dealer") but some aplications use in other services, where I could scaned ECM (ECU).
On internet, I found 5 common problems which cause yellow engine warning light: 1. Oxygen Sensor, 2. Gas Cap, 3. Catalytic Convertor, 4. Mass Airflow Sensor, 5. Spark Plugs and Wires.
That some of 5 problems have own "P" number error, for example Oxigen Sensor. If Oxigen Sensor is damage, that error would be detected and shown.
Maybe, Gas Cap could be damaged and engine warning light is yellow without showing yellow light?
jaguar.awd, the code you are talking about can be caused by 5 conditions that the car sees:
1 Inertia switch activated
2 Throttle Limp Home mode
3 Engine starts and stumbles
4 Engine fail to start
5 Engine stall
Since you don't mention the engine RPMs being limited to 3000 RPM, we can rule out #2. We can rule out #1 since you say that you have reset the inertia switch and you are able to drive the car. So, this really leaves us with a rough running engine. Based on past experience with the car, I would say that you need to access the rear spark plug wells and see if you have oil in the wells. It would probably also be a good time to replace the spark plugs since you are in there. The seals to the valve covers can leak and allow oil into the plug well which can cause the engine to run rough. Granted, this tends to manifest itself with P030X (where X is a number between 1 and 6), indicating a misfiring cylinder.
Otherwise, have you noticed the engine is hard to start or needs multiple attempts to start? Lets see if we can get to the bottom of this.
Why do you suspect the gas cap is damaged? If it is, or something related to the evap system, that could cause the check engine light to come on. However, that would cause a code to be stored and it would sho up as a stored or pending code. Again, P1582 would NOT cause the check engine light to come on. You have to have another code(s). Borrow or buy a scanner that can read P Codes as well as clear the codes. And if you clear the codes, see if the check engine light comes back on and if it does, then post those codes here and someone here should be able to help you in diagnosing why the check engine light is on.
Are you saying your car runs perfectly fine, except for the last year the check engine light has been on? Or do you have any driveability issues at all? Can you rev the engine over 3K RPMs without the engine stumbling?
In May 2017, I had yellow check enigne light, and 2 in "Volvo - Toyota" service detected codes: P1647 and P1582. I replaced then sensor C2S51801 and all spark plugs.
After that replacing, yellow light was gone and I was "happy". But only 50 miles after driving, yellow engine check light came back. In "Volvo - Toyota" detected only "P1582", nothing more. They (in service thought - maybe problem is with throttle body)..
After all infos here on forum, I learned P1582 is just information code, not faulty code.
But, still remains that yellow (amber) light.
That yellow light remained on dash 10 month constantly.
Yesterday I made "hard reset" (negative wire to positive on accumulator) but yellow light is still on dash.
Today, I disconnected negative wire and after several hours I will see result, but I am sure, yellow light will stay.
Next week I will go to "Volvo - Toyota" service and they will check again codes. I do not know what to do if only code would be "P1582".
They will "swich off" amber (yellow) light by computer, but I am sure, after several miles, bloody light will appear again.
Why "Volvo - Toyota".
That service had licence for Ford and they have all tools for X-type and they are very helpfull
The reader being used must be missing the real culprit as JagV8 stated.
I do not know how much you have spent with these guys so far, but for less than $120 you can get an iCarsoft-930 OBD2 reader made for your Jag from Walmart, Amazon, eBay, etc. This device will also do ABS, Passive Restraint, etc as it can read and reset other modules in your car.
For around $10 you can get an ELM 327 bluetooth OBD2 reader from Walmart, eBay, Amazon and get Car Scanner Pro software for your phone/laptop at a cost of $2.99. There is other software also available (Torque seems popular). They all will read Pxxxx codes and clear/reset the CEL. Scanner Pro also allows you to capture the car's condition using a freeze frame when the CEL is triggered. Finally, you can monitor, log then download up to 4 engine sensors real time or set up a dash panel which allows you to monitor as many engine sensors as will fit on your screen.
I hate relying on others to tell me what my car was doing, and there are many, many inexpensive ways to keep track of it yourself, real time.
02-11-2009 | 02:04 PM
Help!!
