When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Do you know if the last time the codes were checked if they cleared all of them or could that list of codes be for various things that were old/ resolved in the past?
Just wait and see if the light comes back on and if it does, then have them check teh codes again so that way you will know for sure what the issue is right now.
Based on that list it looks like you might be having some intermittent issues, at least in the two cylinders that show the misfires. When were the last time the plugs were changed? Might be a place to start to see if maybe there is some oil in the plug wells of those two cylinders and go from there.
Do you know if the last time the codes were checked if they cleared all of them or could that list of codes be for various things that were old/ resolved in the past?
Just wait and see if the light comes back on and if it does, then have them check teh codes again so that way you will know for sure what the issue is right now.
Based on that list it looks like you might be having some intermittent issues, at least in the two cylinders that show the misfires. When were the last time the plugs were changed? Might be a place to start to see if maybe there is some oil in the plug wells of those two cylinders and go from there.
Previous time, when I checked, it was si8milar as today. I forgot excactly.
Yellow (Amber) light came back again today, after 2 miles of driving.
Yes, that could be the manifold gaskets needing to be replaced. Or it could be the the plugs in those two cylinders #3 and #5 or could be an issue with the coils. Or could be something else. That might be a good starting place to look. You could move the coils on those two cylinders to other cylinders to see if the the problem moves with them. If it does, the coils are bad. If not check the plugs and gaskets.
Whatever it is must not be bad enough to triggger the Limp mode and must be intermittent, but happens often enough so that you can't complete enough drive cycles for the light to go out on its own.
In May 2017. I replaced all 6 spark plugs and gaskets (attachment). I have amber light constantly from May 2017. It would be incredible if 2 (of 6) original spark plugs are damaged. Or 2 (of 6) gaskets, too.
Maybe, ignition coils are damaged. I did not changed coils. There are on ebay complete of 6 coils (C2S42673).
If you did all that in May 2017 and then had a check engine light since then, it could certainly be a coincidence, but probably not likely. Could be a slight gap problem, could be a gasket not quote seated properly, could be a wire was pinched or damaged slightly when the work was done. Hard to say. Whatever it is it can't be serious enough to put it into limp mode, but must happen ofetn enough so the engine light wouldn't go off on its own. Don't know what to tell you at this point other than have the code(s) checked again and then have the mechanic work off of that.
Today, I was in one very good service. They use Bosch KTS 560 for "dyagnostic".
Results for history of the faults are: P1000 , P1647.
After "clearing", remains only P1000.
It is interesting, no more in history of the faults P0300 , P0303 , P0305 , P1316 , P0222 , P1260. Also, no more: P1582.
Only one fault code in history was same as before 6 days (in "Volvo - Toyota"): P1647, what is logic, because I replaced the sensor C2S51801, and in history remains P1647.
But, problem should be P1000 which causes "yellow light" on check engine.
The P1000 code is nothing to worrt about. All it means is that not enough drive cycles have been completed. Once they are without having an issue that would trigger a code that will turn to P1111, which means everything is good. The one you have to worry about is P1647, which is the upper O2 senosr on bank 2. That WILL cause a check engine light. Have your mechanic replace that an dyou might be good to go.
The other codes (P3003, P3005, etc.) were probably old codes that might have been addressed at some point and once cleared and they do not show up again, do not worry about those.
The one you have to worry about is P1647, which is the upper O2 senosr on bank 2. That WILL cause a check engine light. Have your mechanic replace that and you might be good to go.
Oh, nooo.
On May 2017. I did replace sensor C2S51801 . When I started to drive, there was no "yellow light".
After 70 miles, "yellow" came again, and still is.
It means, very new C2S51801 was "gone" for about 70 miles!
Are you sure that the O2 sensor replaced was for bank 2 and maybe not for bank 1? There are two upstream sensors and two downstream sensors. Could the original code have been P1646? Could they have mistaken bank 2 for bank 1 and replaced the wrong sensor?
If after 70 miles your light came on for the same code, why didn't you take it back to whomever did the work to check out?
Are you sure that the O2 sensor replaced was for bank 2 and maybe not for bank 1? There are two upstream sensors and two downstream sensors. Could the original code have been P1646? Could they have mistaken bank 2 for bank 1 and replaced the wrong sensor?
If after 70 miles your light came on for the same code, why didn't you take it back to whomever did the work to check out?
There are photos taken on 16.05.2017. and 22.05.2017.
Thank you, Dell Galley. You forwarded me to this post, obviously interesting for me:
xtype-steve , 04-09-2013 04:09 PM
Just fixed my 2.1 Petrol X type Engine Malfunction Warning indication.
Code Reader indicated O2 sensor, Bank 1, Sensor 1. Cleared code,replaced Bank 1 Sensor 1 but light came straight back on. Checked with code reader again, P1646 returned, not P1647 (read on).
Searched internet and found out that the 2 black wires of the four wires on the O2 sensor are the heater coil. Measured all black wires on all 4 connectors on the car by disconnecting O2 sensor plug,putting some thin wire into the sensor socket and measuring resistance with the following result:
Bank 1 Sensor 1 = 1 ohm (New one)
Bank 1 Sensor 2 = 6 ohm
Bank 2 Sensor 1 =2100 ohm
Bank 2 Sensor 2 =14 ohm
The reading from Bank 2 Sensor 1 being a lot higher than the others shows something is wrong.
Replaced Bank 2 Sensor 1, after starting/stopping the engine a few times the Engine Malfunction Warning light went off, hooray!!
.........
I need to use ohmmeter to meassure black wires on all four sensors. After that, I will be sure which sensor was bad.
X-series 2002 auto AWD 2.5 Petrol 66,000 miles on going problem for 3 months {jag/trained mechanic unable to resolve} all the usual replacement done sensors etc both banks fuel injectors /engine decarb/internal combustion chamber cleaning infold manifoldEngine warning light /with occasional amber which comes on driving around 70 mph stays on for a few miles then does not come on again until parked and journey resumed after same type drive as above......very occasionally accelerator resisting pressure of my footCODES P0170 PO174 CLEARED 4 TIMES.... COME BACK ON AFTER DRIVING AS ABOVE!.. ANY THOUGHTS APPRECIATED1 {meassage center no overdrive available ..which is available and still lots of power
Are you sure the codes aren't P0171 and P0174? I don't see P0170 in the list of X-Type codes. If so, chances are you have an intermittent vaccuum leak. When you say "all the usual replacement done" can you detail just what was replaced? Have you checked the accorian hose in front of the throttle body? The IMT O-rings, the PCV hose and the brake booster hose? When you say your mechanic cleaned the intake manifold how did he do that? Did he physically remove it and then also change the upper and lower gaskets?