Looking for all experts.

1st gear grinds unless i put in 2nd gear first then move to 1st gear. I have changed gearbox oil, lubricated gear shift, bleed the clutch slave cylinder.

I'm out of options. I can't figure out why clutch gear won't disengage when trying to go into 1st gear from a complete stop but all other gears engage just fine.

HELP.....

 

Mobil, drive the car to a hill and let it roll to about 2-3mph and then see if it goes into 1st. Also, are you getting the grinding noise when you take your foot off the clutch or are you getting it the minute you even get it close to 1st gear?

To me, it seems like your synchro went out, or is on its way out. Car-part.com is great for used parts if you need them

 

It grinds before while trying to put it in 1st even when the clutch is depressed while standing still but If I slide it in 2nd gear then slide it in 1st gear while the car is standing still it glides in smoothly.

It doesn't do this all the time but it's becoming more frequent and only with 1st gear. Is there a syncros ring for each gear or is it just having a problem with 1st gear? The problem gets really bad if I change gears at high RPM's vs switching gears at 3000 to 4000 rpms.

Whatcha think?

 

Can't find that part anywhere on web especially in the US. worse come to worse am I looking at a new or rebuilt gearbox eventually?

 

Mobile, I would say that used manual gearboxes are fine because this is the first and only problem other than clutch problems that I've ever heard of regarding the xtype. Basically, the 5spds are a really great gearbox and they don't really have any problems, but it looks like you just got really unlucky. Look up your problem on the net (not just on the forums) and see what you can find, but I'm pretty sure your syncro is out especially if your gears are grinding at higher rpms too. Do you have redline mtl in the gearbox as per my writeup?

 

I ordered from the dealership $30 something a quart. I couldn't find redline locally so if i had to order some might as well get oem version. Do you recommend redline over oem. i will give it a try if its cheaper than replacing a synchros ring.

 

Well for me, I had a very sticky shifter, but my car had never had its fluid changed in 110k miles so I think anything would have been an improvement. Before I put in the new fluid, it seemed to not mesh, but now it meshes perfectly! Honestly, I think that you wouldn't really see any improvement with redline over the OEM right off the bat. To me, the only other easy fix would be that you have stretched your shift linkage wire. I'm sure you know which one I'm talking about here cause there's one that deciphers between 1/2, 3/4, 5/R and another wire that deciphers between 1/3/5 and 2/4/R. I think the cable that deciphers between top and bottom (1/3/5 and 2/4/R) might have gotten stretched out due to older motor mounts (another very unique problem to our cars that when motor mounts go out, we get some erratic shifting in manuals.)

I would do a visual inspection of the cable while shifting into 1st and try to push it in as far as you can with some pliers and see if it wants to catch on 1st then.

Hopefully that all makes sense to you, or at least you can sorta get an understanding of what I'm talking about.

 

What about the bushes on the linkage often the simple things are over looked

 

Have you considered that your clutch may not fully disengage? If the clutch drags it puts extra load on the synchronizers. First gear takes it especially hard.

Does the clutch start engaging near the floor? It should start engaging about half way up. A problem could be caused by a problem with the linkage or air in the clutch actuator cylinder.

 

Had a similar issue on my manual Honda I drove. Turned out to be the hydraulic on the clutch. $100 bux later back on the road. Not sure If manual jags have this.

 

I thought the switch at the bottom of the clutch allowed you to start the car. I normally have to press the clutch all the way to the bottom of the floor for the car to start. I tried bleeding the clutch but I might have to disengage the clutch pedal from solenoid and press it all the way down with my hard. I don't think the clutch pedal can go that far down.

I am curious about the bushings or linkage cable. Where can I find it or what am I looking for and can it be adjusted. Is the linkage cable connected to the gear shift or something else.

 

mobile, if you pull up the leather shifter boot, you should see the linkage cable. Check for slack in that first and then trace that to the transmission to check the bushings

 

Yes, the clutch pedal must be pushed all the way down to start the car. That is something quite different from the clutch actuator mechanism.

The quick test is to see where the clutch actually starts to engage. This is best done in first gear starting from a stop. How far does the pedal come up before you feel the car start to move? This should be about half the way up.

Pete.

 

I tested that and yes the clutch does not have to be pressed all the way down to move freely throughout the gears while the engine is running. So I can press it half way down and it will shift without grinding.

I also learned that if I come to a complete stop from any other gears it will go into first without the grinding while the clutch is being pressed when I make the full stop. But if I am in neutral when I make a complete stop it will grind a bit. Sometimes the grind is slow and the gear will engage and other times the synchros is not spinning fast enough with engine idle speed.

I've learned how to not make it grind but if anyone else tries to drive my car they will never get it in 1st with it sounding like they are grinding the clutch.

So the big question is why does it only grind when starting from neutral when the clutch is pressed all the way down and doesn't grind if I shift it in any other gear while the clutch is down and then to 1st with no grinding. I will check and lube linkage cables tomorrow to see if that helps a bit.

Thank you all, this type of input is exactly what I needed. It is a definitely good way to learn more about our cars and how they work.

 

From your results it seems that the clutch is not the cause of your problem. Could it be driving technique? If you do not fully engage the clutch when shifting the synchros will wear rapidly.

You did not mention how many miles are on this car. We just sold our standard transmission 2003 X-Type with 206,000 miles on it and the transmission worked perfectly. This is a little suprising, you just don't hear of troubles with X-Type standard transmissions.

Pete.

 

Disguay,

I think you might be on to something there with the linkage cable for the upper gears 1/3/5. I have heard very settle grinding in just those 3 gears but most significant in 1st gear. I tell you what, without you guys on here I would be like windows xp blue screen of death. hahaha. Time to get to work, will upload results or findings. Thanks to all.

 

Maybe it is driving style. should i have to wait a few seconds with clutch down to move into first gear. if i press down and go to first i hear some grinding. but if i wait a second while clutch is down no grindind. is it possible I'm not giving synchros ring enough time to match speeds.

 

You should not need to do anything special to shift the Jag. I am reminded of a friend who was pretty short. He always ground the gears because he could not push the clutch all the way down. Bad for the gears and bad for the synchros.

That is what I mean by bad technique. My wife drove our car for 206,000 miles and never had a problem. She was brought up on standards and shifted properly.

Pete.

 

Pete,

Did you ever change the clutch and if so at what mileage? I know clutch life is driver and driving style dependent but it sounds like your wife drives like I do. Thanks.

 

Replaced my at 80.5k miles.