Greetings. I am seeking a part reference for an 02 X Type Throttle Body Relay. It resides in the engine bay fuse box and is identified as R11. I've searched Google and the forums here. The cat is in the shop as I ran out of options. Here's a quick run down of the context.

My college-aged son is now the owner of the car. It was leaking oil around the valve covers so I switched cars with him and have taken a week's project and turned it into a couple of months. I am not a motorhead. I never really got involved with doing more than just changing the oil. However, given the age of the car, the cost, and the mileage (130,000), I thought it might be the way to go.

I wanted to try to address an issue the car was having with what appeared to be oil leaking from the valve covers. It was pretty wet on the top of the engine. I pulled the plenum, manifold, and valve covers. I discovered 3 of the six spark plugs were submerged in oil, so I have no question the car wasn't operating as efficiently as it could/should have been - although it appeared to drive well. Regardless, I cleaned it out as best I could, replaced the spark plugs, ignition coils, and gaskets for the valve covers, manifold, and plenum. I also changed the oil, oil filter, and flushed the coolant system. When it all got back together, the car ran great. Mostly.

It showed the check engine light and at approximately 3,000 RPMs it shuddered and stalled, but never died. If I drove gently and didn't gun the engine, the transmission would ease through the gears and there was no shudder - and the driving experience was smooth and responsive - except the check engine light persisted. In an effort to remove the check engine light and solve the shudder at 3,000 RPMs I scoured these forums. Keep in mind I have no idea what I'm doing. I went through the assessment protocol from the dash to discover a reference to the throttle body not being correct. I then decided to order an OBDII scanner. While I was waiting for it to arrive, I attempted to seek other causes. In removing the plenum, the 2-wire connector to the throttle body disintegrated in my hands. I could connect it, but it wasn't a good connection. I was able to order a new one and installed it, hopeful the connection would be part of the solution. Nope. What I was finding in the forums was that I likely had to conduct a hard reset on the ECM/ECU. The most common recommendation was to combine the battery leads to promote the draining of all power from the engine components. I go my radio code and was ready to drain all the power. The suggestion was that would reset the car to the factory settings - and help the throttle position sensor - which was likely the culprit for the shuddering. So, I combined the leads for 5-10 minutes. There was no change. I did it for 30 minutes. Nothing. I combined the leads overnight. Nothing. I also read about removing some fuses tied to the throttle assembly. Still, the radio never reset and the check engine light did not go away so I was never successful in completely draining power from the components. Anyone know why? I watched videos of people with an X Type combine their leads and it worked for them. I'm still perplexed about this piece.

I drove the car (gingerly) for a week after completing the mechanical issues I mentioned above. Mechanically, except the shudder, the car drove well. It was smooth and acceleration was responsive. I was reserved on the gas and the engine light was a nuisance, but nothing more. However, after the fuses were pulled and replaced, the care doesn't run properly. The engine light persists, but now there is an engine systems fault and a gear box fault. The idle is between 1400 and 1800 RPMs. I now have little to no acceleration. The car jolts from gear to gear. The gas pedal increases the RPMs but does not increase the speed of the car in any responsive way - unless I'm coming down a hill and gravity assists.

The OBDII scanner arrived. I was sure being able to see the fault codes it would lead me in the right direction. The two codes I received were P0222 - Throttle position (TP) sensor B/ accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor B - low input and P1251- Air Mixture Solenoid Circuit Malfunction. I ordered a new TP sensor and installed it on the throttle body. No luck. I don't think the mechanical components are the issue here because it ran well between the replacement of the spark plugs, ignition coils, and gaskets - and whatever I did to try to get rid of the check engine light/shudder to get it into its current state. I took it to a shop to have them look a bit deeper. As I said, I have little engine repair experience - and an electrical issue is even further out of reach.

The feedback I received from the shop was that they recommended replacing the APP sensor - the accelerator position sensor - at $600. I had seen videos on how to do this and knew the part wasn't more than $200. I elected to pay them for their investigation and I'll do that part. That was Friday. That conversation went down just before closing and I couldn't get to the car. So, it's in the shop. However, I did come across another potential issue I had not found previously. In seeking other potential culprits to my issue, I discovered a reference to the throttle motor relay for a different make/model that had the same characteristics for what was happening with our car. I found R11 (throttle motor relay) resides in the engine bay fuse box. To the best of my knowledge, that is the reference name for the relay - not a part number. I have called auto stores and searched the web. There isn't a reference I have found and would love to know if anyone on the forum has the information or a photo of the relay identified as R11. I called Jaguar of Seattle yesterday to have them cross-reference the OE with my VIN but their techs weren't in due to the weather issues. I will get the car back Monday but wanted to have this information so I could actually order the part. It would be fantastic if this is the culprit as it would be much less expensive than replacing the APP sensor - which appeared to work fine even after the mechanical work I completed.

Thanks for any ideas or support.

 

Looks like a C2S2675 for the R11, Throttle Motor Relay.
I think some of the VWs in the 2007-2009 era uses this style relay. (Mini SPDT 5 terminal)

I would also think that a FORD car uses the same relays.

A salvage yard throttle assy might be your cheapest option if a replacement is required?

 

Thank you! I forgot to mention this was my first post. I have learned a ton about this car over the past two months!
I appreciate your quick reply. I'll be sure to give an update.

Thanks again.

 

I typed in a search for FORD MICRO RELAY 5 TERMINAL and found hundreds online.
Too bad you are too far away to give you one. I have a few dozen NIB that were in the trash when I worked at the dealer so I 'rescued' them.
Still sitting in a box in my shop. I did use one in a VW Passat once.

Be aware that they are also made as 4 terminal relays and won't work. You need the 5 terminal.

 

Great to know! Thanks again.

 

https://www.yourmechanic.com/questio...0222-by-dueh-t

heed post #13 =
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-sensor-86984/

Heed post #4 =
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...elp-me-191062/

 

Update:
I was able to purchase a FORD MICRO RELAY 5 TERMINAL ($19.00). It did not correct my issue. So, I've ordered an accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor. It's en route. In the meantime, I wanted to try (again) to conduct a hard reset. In the related threads, POET listed steps to conduct a hard reset:I feel I have followed these steps exactly as written. (Although - my battery leads won't connect - they are too short. Instead, I used the negative side of my jumper cables to make the connection. The cables are 6', so pretty long for jumper cables. I can't imagine that would be a factor - but there it is.) Otherwise, I have done what Poet has listed. I also left them connected for 10 minutes. Nothing. Then 30 minutes. Nope. I would really like to conduct a hard reset to see if it will help my situation.

Are there any suggestions different than what Poet shared? Any suggestions at all?

Thanks, in advance, for any ideas.

 

On another note, the relay may not stop the "shudder" at 3000 RPM, sounds like limp mode. That is likely a vacuum leak, a common culprit could be the brake booster to intake manifold. If you took the intake off, it could be the gaskets, could be the lower intake manifold gaskets but, assuming it was fine before the work, I would concentrate on the hoses you may have touched before assuming it is deeper.

Good luck with the relay part of your issue. Good find.