Going nuts here. Car has had a vacuum leak for some time. After going on a long distance trip for Christmas, I parked the Jag and took off the upper intake so I could replace the gaskets as that was my best guess to where the vacuum leak was. I used the old carb/injector spray cleaner trick and the car would rev whenever I sprayed along where the upper manifold met the lower/injectors. The top was only off two days and was covered.

Anyway, I only unplugged five electrical pieces from the upper: the two controls to the left(door/servo like controls), whatever the sensor is about in the middle and to the back, and then the two sensors near the air intake giant rubber area.
Those are all plugged back in properly(multiple times as in 10+). The battery has been unplugged/replugged 10+ as well as attempted the full reset via touching positive to negative cables(without touching the battery obviously).

I tried swapping relay 9 and relay 10.
I looked over all the fuses - all good.

I rattled the key. I jiggled the shifter(automatic). Ran codes(p1000, p0128, p1647) which shouldn't be causing this problem.

Starter should not be the issue as it was replaced at 190,000 which was about 6 months ago. Been rock solid since.
Battery is great. Have not had any issues even in below 0F temps this winter.

Do I really have to pull the intake off again and look at all the wires and such?
I am just at a loss because my backup also happened to have something go wrong which is virtually unfixable(250,000mile+ truck where the control arm rusted at the frame - had no idea).
So, I have no car and could quite possibly lose a very decent job.

Stressed yet still hopeful that someone may have some kind of suggestion that could be the answer.

 

Welcome to the Forums. I am sure we can get you taken care of. Lets take a step back and look at a slightly bigger picture here. What I want you to do is to get in to the car, ensure the shifter is in Park (assuming you have an automatic tranny). Now, while looking down at the center console (near the coin holder, but the e-brake), attempt to start the car. Did a red LED come on. If yes, your problem is not with the work you just did, but you have managed to erase the keyfobs from the memory of the car. Unfortunately, this is going to require the use of a locksmith (will take a higher end one as they are going to need a special computer) or someone that has the SDD software. In short, whoever does this (can be the dealership) will have to reprogram the keys to the car so the car can recognize that it is seeing the correct keys. You would not be the first to have the keys just randomly come up missing in the car.

Now, if the red light did not come on and the motor never cranked, then I want you to shift the car to NEUTRAL (ensure foot is on the brake and the e-brake is set). Now, attempt to start the car again. Did the motor crank over? Did the red light come on? If the red light came on, see above. If the car cranked over, it most likely should have started too. If so, your shifter cable is needing adjustment. You atleast have a way around getting the car started. Shift the car back to PARK.

Assuming that the motor did not crank, the next step will be to put a multimeter across the battery such that the leads are only touching the lead terminals of the battery (may take a second person holding the leads).. The multimeter should read 12.6 VDC. If it reads 12.5 VDC or less, then your battery is not at full charge and needs to be brought up to a full charge prior to proceeding. Wtih the battery at 100%, attempt to start the car. Did the multimeter stay at 12.6, drop to roughly 11.0 VDC, or drop to under 10 VDC? If the multimeter stayed at 12.6 VDC, then you most likely have a bad ECU, but let me know and I will see if we can narrow things down a bit more. If the voltage dropped to 12.0 to 11.0VDC, then odds are the motor should have started. If it didn't, then you most likely have a bad battery cable. At this point, probably best to replace both cables. They are not that expensive if you get some generic cables. If your battery fell to under 10.0 VDC, then you have a bad battery and it needs to be replaced.

If you have more questions, please, let me know. We can get you back up and running.

 

There is a red light just above the little coin holder section that comes on for about 3 seconds or so.

 

Seeking, if it is on as you are attempting to crank the car, then it sounds like you have a PATS issue (ie, your car is not seeing the key as a valid key to start the car). This can be something as simple as the PATS module lost power and can't verify things or it could be that you have an issue with your instrument cluster and that is causing what you are seeing. This is where having the SDD software would break this all down and tell you specific issues.

 

Here is a quick video(sorry about the crumbs/whatever - it was used as my DD).

https://drive.google.com/file/d/19Uk...ew?usp=sharing

Only briefly comes on. I can hear a "boooooboooooof" from the rear which I would assume is t he fuel pump/sending unit kicking on.

 

I can acquire SDD software easily enough. I have no clue on which OBD II cable to USB to buy.

 

I can't seem to find an edit button, so sorry for replying to this thread often.
That light comes on as soon as it gets to on(not start, the final part) - not necessarily as you attempt to crank. It goes off and does not come back on until you turn the key completely to off then go back to at least on mode.

 

Seeking, well, since the light is not on as you are cranking, then we know that the problem is not the PATS system. So, this is where we need to move on to the electrical checks at the battery. We can then narrow things down from there and get to what is causing you all these heart aches.

 

So just a bit of housekeeping, if the RED PATS light comes on when ignition key is turned all the way just before "start", then goes out, the PATS is recognizing all the components necessary to allow car to start. If the red PATS light stays illuminated, that is the built in signal from JAGUAR that some part of the PATS system check failed. There is also sometimes that the red PATS light will illuminate, then start a blink code sequence such as 1 blink pause 3 blinks (13) etc. that will indicate a problem. In short yours is indicating all is well and the no start is elsewhere from the security system check. There are few (if any) members in this forum better experienced than Thermo (h2o "down under" is good as well) to help run down electrical problems. Heed his advice.

 

Hi SeekingAssistance,

Can you confirm your transmission type.....auto or manual?
Both Thermo and Dell have logically ruled out the PATS security locking down the starter control.
If you have a manual transmission car it might need the clutch pressed in to confirm the transmission is "out of gear", so a possible faulty clutch pedal switch could be a problem.
Auto transmissions do not require the brake pedal to be pressed to engage starter.
You've ruled out a possible faulty R10 by substituting with R9.....good to get that confirmed.

Your removal of the intake manifold and subsequent refitting of all the connectors should not cause significant problems........the only thing I would check is the fuel rail pressure sensor connector as if the ECM cannot get a good reading back on that it might assume no fuel pressure arriving or over fuel pressure which either might inhibit the crank permission.

This 2016 thread might be worth a read....ultimately was a instrument cluster that had died, but the are some good diagnostics discussed and some visual hints of cluster behavior that the original poster (Litteljag) had noted.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-start-166194/
Good luck

 

I might have some good info coming up about this. Car is an automatic.

So, here is my update: I ended up buying a car to just keep me from losing my job(beater Escape with 4WD at 160,000 miles). I still want the Jag on the road as the engine has been solid as has the transmission.
I am 99% sure I can rule out the battery. I did not have any issues prior to redoing the intake gaskets with the battery - including days of below 0 temps days before. However, for due diligence, I put the battery on a known good working charging unit I own for 24 hours.
It is a "leave in car" charger that does 2/10/50 amps. I had it on 10amps. When I went to attempt to start the car, I put it on 50amp start mode as well.

Again, nothing even attempts to happen in the motor area with one exception(mention after this) but the fuel pump clearly makes the "boooboooof" noise.
The only noise you get from the motor area is a high pitch whine noise coming from what I believe is the TPS. It's the left side sensor right after the rubber hose from the air filter box. It has like a whine noise and if you turn the car from ignition(or ON) to off, it clicks a few times.

I was able to run codes again and finally, the system gave me back more information:
-P0122 TPS Sensor A circuit low input (faulty sensor or harness is open/shorted or bad connection)
-P0222 TPS Sensors B circuit (same possibilities as A)

Now, I know from my own messing with the system that the car will never attempt to crank if the left side is not plugged in. I was doing some testing when I was trying to figure out the fuel issue before I realized it was a vacuum problem. My dad though it was the throttle body sensor so we did some quick tests on that.

So, here comes the weird dilemma: if it is the sensor, is it because of something I did during removing the upper to do the gaskets? I did not know initially that the wire harness that goes behind the motor to the ECM was mounted to the upper. It wasnt mentioned on my instructions and I did not think to look at that initially.
I did not pull on it hard because I realized very quickly that something was still attached on the back side of the upper intake.

I wonder if I pulled something loose? Again, it comes back to that I might need to pull the upper off again to get a good look over of all of the wires. Right now, with a good light source, nothing seems out of place. Do, I just go for it and get a $20 TPS for the heck of it and see if that was the issue?
I was a mechanic once upon a time 10 years ago and there is a reason I swapped into IT. Chasing issues gets old. It's just more fun for me to do it with servers and user-end computers.

Also of possible note: when I attempt to turn the car on/leave it to the on position, pretty much every non normal light is coming on. Oil, tire pressure, check engine, battery, etc. No clue if that is an indicator, but I thought it was worth mentioning.

 

Thanks for clarifying you have an auto and the updated additional info.

It is well worth investigating your current TPS sensor voltages to ascertain if they are out and causing your error codes and possible no crank.
You might have a damaged wire in the loom back to the ECM or similar.
I hope you have a digital multimeter that you can take some fairly accurate voltage readings.
The 4 pin TPS plug utilizes pin 1 for the ECM supplied ground to the TPS sensor, and pin 4 for the TPS sensor common 5V supply from the ECM.

As for the TPS sensor variable outputs, they are as follow:-
Pin 2 of the plug is TPS1 signal and ranges from 0.74V at idle and 3.79V at full throttle.
Pin 3 of the plug is TPS2 signal output and ranges from 1.65V at idle and 4.20V at full throttle.

Practical Tip: while you wife is not looking, sneak into her sewing kit and relieve her of a few fine sewing pins.
You can then use these to slip up the back of the TPS plug following the wire sheathing through the soft moisture seal and hopefully make contact with the plug conductor inside where you can take a live reading of pin voltages insitu.

 

Update(and I feel very dumb as I bought a $2000 beater so I at least had something to go to work in):

Out of curiosity, I had someone turn the ignition key for me while I "fiddled" with wires. The only thing I had done was grab the wire harness near the ECM. So, behind the air intake and near the passenger side of the car.
I jiggled it somewhat hard but not like trying to rip it out or anything.

Car cranked, started, and ran.

I apparently did not fix my vacuum issue with the new upper intake gaskets so it looks like I am going to be pulling it all back apart again to do the lowers. I also have a set of plugs and new injectors I might as well toss in while I am at it.
So, I guess there must be a loose connection to the ECM or something? Not quite sure how to check that. The one screw on the ECM looks like some kind of 3 prong torx or something. Mine is rusted decently so it's hard to tell.

Thank you guys for all your suggestions here. I would appreciate any advice about the harness moving forward - especially since I will have to the intake manifold apart again trying to hunt down the vacuum leak.

My reasoning for it being around there is that if I spray carb cleaner at where the upper/lower manifold gaskets areas are, the car will rev up. It does not rev up near any actual vacuum lines. So, I figured it would be manifold gaskets.
I just only did the uppers and not the lowers.

 

The ECM securing screw is a 5 point Torx , whereas common Torx bits are 6 point.
You can pick up the appropriate5 point Torx drivers online via eBay generally.

Sounds like you either have a bad wire in the loom or a intermittent connection in a connector ....tracking it down could be a bit humorous.
You probably want to check out the ECM connector for any corrosion or tainted pins and if you conclude it is within the engine loom, you might decide to track down a good second hand loom from a donor car at a wreckers yard.