03 x type will crank but wont start, help
#1
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Vehicle was working fine yesterday. Went to start today, it turned on for 2-3 seconds, hesitated, then turned off. Now, it will crank, but will not start. Fuel cut off switch is pushed in. Good battery, plenty of fuel, key unlocks and locks doors. Dash display reads "cruise control unavailable" after cranking. All fuses are good. Disconnected battery and let sit, to no avail. Need some Help. Jim
#3
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Vehicle was working fine yesterday. Went to start today, it turned on for 2-3 seconds, hesitated, then turned off. Now, it will crank, but will not start. Fuel cut off switch is pushed in. Good battery, plenty of fuel, key unlocks and locks doors. Dash display reads "cruise control unavailable" after cranking. All fuses are good. Disconnected battery and let sit, to no avail. Need some Help. Jim
#4
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If the engine didn't try to fire using starting fluid, I would suspect you have no spark.
You can check fuse F92 in the central junction box. This single fuse feeds 12V power to all six ignition coils. If the fuse is OK, I'd suggest checking for spark by pulling one of the coils, connecting it to a spare spark plug that is grounded to the engine somewhere, and observing for spark while cranking.
If no spark, you can do basic signal tracing to make sure you really have 12 volts to the coils. Other possible causes of no spark include a faulty crankshaft position sensor or a faulty ECM.
Good luck and please report back what you've found.
Mark
You can check fuse F92 in the central junction box. This single fuse feeds 12V power to all six ignition coils. If the fuse is OK, I'd suggest checking for spark by pulling one of the coils, connecting it to a spare spark plug that is grounded to the engine somewhere, and observing for spark while cranking.
If no spark, you can do basic signal tracing to make sure you really have 12 volts to the coils. Other possible causes of no spark include a faulty crankshaft position sensor or a faulty ECM.
Good luck and please report back what you've found.
Mark
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jamlaw, what is your e-mail addy? I will send you all the owners manuals to your addy. As for the location of Fuse #92, look at the fuse box, with the relays at the top of the box (large square boxes), look at the bottom row of fuses. Starting in the bottom left corner, you will see 2 fuses side by side, a spot that is blank (looks like a fuse should go there, but there are no terminals), and then you have fuse #92.
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First off, thanx for all your help, i feel like i know alittle more about my jaguar. I feel silly, since my used x type came with no manual. I assumed the fuse box was the one I located in the engine compartment. Until yesterday, I did not know there was one under the dash by the driver's side. Needless to say, after your directions on how to get there, I found the fuse, and sure enough, it was blown. I replaced it, and it turned on. What a goof, if it wasn't so sad, so much time and money spent, i would be laughing out loud. Anyway, thank you for you all's help. When i first had this problem, i didn't know where to look until I found this forum. Good day, from south Texas, James.
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bought a dead one driverside secondary timing chain broke found a replacement with a master link to see if valve were damage put it together got good compression now i have no fuel pressure to rail relay is good ground is good cut of switch is pressed in no power to 3 and 5 contectors on fuel relay or power to # 7 fuse, any ideas cant hear pump run either poor gas in to tb and it fires right up thanks for any help
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This exact same thing happened to me yesterday, went over a speed bump on the road and car died, had to get it towed, and thanks to these forums i found about the inertia switch and fuse #92. I had blown that fuse also, any reason as to why this would happen? a one off thing or should i head to the auto electrician to investigate?
Roadside mechanic that came out to see me checked the fuses in the engine bay but never looked at the ones behind the dash, then again i didn't know they were there either.
Roadside mechanic that came out to see me checked the fuses in the engine bay but never looked at the ones behind the dash, then again i didn't know they were there either.
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drk280, I would simply replace the fuse and monitor the car. If fuses are run near their limit for a long period of time, they have a tendency to loose their rating (due to the metal strip running hot and isolated portions actually failing) and will over time naturally blow. As long as the fuse doesn't blow in the next month or so, smile and move on. But, if the fuse blows again, then you have a component that is starting to go. If it fails after hitting a bump, then you most likely are looking at a wire bundle that is loose and has damaged the insulation and is therefore coming in contact with the metal body, leading to your over current condition. This can be difficult to isolate as you have to hand over hand the wire bundles in the car and feel for a rough spot in the insulation. If you want more on this, let me know.
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Saga continues, went to auto electrician to see what he thought, pulled up went into park and off goes the engine.. hmmm .. checked fuse and it was blown again, replaced it, went into reverse back to drive then back to park all with my foot on the brake.. off it went again. Left the car at the auto electrical shop 1 hour ago, with any luck they will find the problem although he didn't seem to sure of solving it.
Auto gearbox was replaced 5 weeks ago due to "gearbox fault" and dropping out of gear problem, and came back with a noise, then had to have tensioner pulley replaced last week. Omg.. i never had any problems with my PT Cruiser, i love the Jag it is so smooth to drive but the bad luck seems to be building up.
Thank you for your reply thermo, i will post here what the problem was when i hear back from them. If you have any ideas i can pass onto the mechanic i am grateful in advance.
4 hours later: yet another update, got a call from auto electrician, said they measured a 30amp spike on fuse #92 when moving from Drive through to reverse and park, they mentioned the circuit powers ignition coils, reversing lamps and auto transmission, said when they disconnected the auto the spike disappeared, but they noticed that part of the loom under the battery appeared squashed, they opened the heat shrink and couldn't find any damage to any of the cables BUT when they put the car back together the fault went away. ** sigh ** they will call me tomorrow when they test the car again, talking to the guys that installed the auto transmission they said there was nothing in it that would cause such a spike and if it was any of the solenoids that they would burn out, they also mentioned inhibitor switch.. relayed this info to electrical mechanic and here i hope for a final solution to the Jag problem
Auto gearbox was replaced 5 weeks ago due to "gearbox fault" and dropping out of gear problem, and came back with a noise, then had to have tensioner pulley replaced last week. Omg.. i never had any problems with my PT Cruiser, i love the Jag it is so smooth to drive but the bad luck seems to be building up.
Thank you for your reply thermo, i will post here what the problem was when i hear back from them. If you have any ideas i can pass onto the mechanic i am grateful in advance.
4 hours later: yet another update, got a call from auto electrician, said they measured a 30amp spike on fuse #92 when moving from Drive through to reverse and park, they mentioned the circuit powers ignition coils, reversing lamps and auto transmission, said when they disconnected the auto the spike disappeared, but they noticed that part of the loom under the battery appeared squashed, they opened the heat shrink and couldn't find any damage to any of the cables BUT when they put the car back together the fault went away. ** sigh ** they will call me tomorrow when they test the car again, talking to the guys that installed the auto transmission they said there was nothing in it that would cause such a spike and if it was any of the solenoids that they would burn out, they also mentioned inhibitor switch.. relayed this info to electrical mechanic and here i hope for a final solution to the Jag problem
Last edited by drk280; 11-02-2009 at 12:41 AM. Reason: update
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#18
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I didn,t want to hi-jack this thread with my problem. LOL
I was wondering why I couldn,t pm you. Thanks for that answer.
I,ve got a 2005 x type 3.0 with 30,000 miles on it. It,s actually my wifes car.
We,re both retired, so she doesn,t drive it much.
Anyhow, she drove it into the garage, and a couple of days later, she went to go to town, and it cranks over, but will not start.
The dash lights up, and it says gearbox fault, Pecus error E.
Here,s what I,ve looked at so far.
Map sensor , fuel shut off switch, fuel pressure is good, and there is fire, as I sprayed a bit of brake clean thru the map sensor hole and it certainly lit up with a nice pop.
It,s been a fantastic car, this is the first problem we have had in 10 years of owning it.
Any ideas of what it might be ?
Any help would be much appreciated. She is now driving a bare bones miata, and really wants her Jag back. LOL
I was wondering why I couldn,t pm you. Thanks for that answer.
I,ve got a 2005 x type 3.0 with 30,000 miles on it. It,s actually my wifes car.
We,re both retired, so she doesn,t drive it much.
Anyhow, she drove it into the garage, and a couple of days later, she went to go to town, and it cranks over, but will not start.
The dash lights up, and it says gearbox fault, Pecus error E.
Here,s what I,ve looked at so far.
Map sensor , fuel shut off switch, fuel pressure is good, and there is fire, as I sprayed a bit of brake clean thru the map sensor hole and it certainly lit up with a nice pop.
It,s been a fantastic car, this is the first problem we have had in 10 years of owning it.
Any ideas of what it might be ?
Any help would be much appreciated. She is now driving a bare bones miata, and really wants her Jag back. LOL
#19
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Thanks for the reply.Brand new battery this spring. It turns the engine over rapidly, pops as if it,s going to start the odd time, but will not run.
Any idea what the messages are trying to tell us ?
One thing I forgot to mention, I tried a different ecu, and then put my original one back in it.
Is there some sort of procedure to go thru once the ecu has been removed and re-installed ?
I initially removed it cause I read that some had corrosion inside under the cover, but mine looked brand spanking new.
Any idea what the messages are trying to tell us ?
One thing I forgot to mention, I tried a different ecu, and then put my original one back in it.
Is there some sort of procedure to go thru once the ecu has been removed and re-installed ?
I initially removed it cause I read that some had corrosion inside under the cover, but mine looked brand spanking new.