hello everyone. i have been looking around the forum and found some pretty resourceful tips that i have already put to good use. currently i am facing an up-hill battlewith my car. it has oil leak coming from the oil pan gasket. i know-i know...9 hour job says every mechanic and everyone here. with money being tight due to economy, thought maybe ill do it myself. so ive read every post i could find on the topic and have done some research. i downloaded the JTIS system and have read through all procedures nedded for this job. i have a few questions though and i was wondering if anyone has a possible answer, that maybe has done it before and a few general questions. any helpful info is appreciated.

first of all my car is 2004 x-type 3.0 AWD, ATX1 package 17" rims. 69,000mi (light blue/cream int.)

anyway:

1. is there any major differences from the 03 to the 04(JTIS only covers up to 03) in regards to changing the oil pan gasket?

2. is it necessary to have the half-shaft holding tool shown in the pictures (JTIS)?

3.do i need toREMOVE the transfer case or can i support it and unbolt, and slide back enough to do the oil pan gasket?


i already know this is gonna bea nightmare but thats why i want to build up enough info to do it. i have a digital camera and will be taking pictures of the whole process (mainly to help with re install) but i will post how if did and how well things went. it seems that this topic is kind of shyed awayed from but im hoping someone can help. thanks for your time -steve

 

There are several different methods used to change the oil pan gasket. You can ask 6 different techs and get 6 different procedures. Most importantly, do you have access to a hoist? This job on your back in the driveway could easily take days. If you're following the JTIS procedure there is no difference between the '03 and '04. If you are going to remove the transfercase the tool is required or a similar arangement to hold the link shaft from coming out of the transfercase too far. For that matter you would also need the tool to split the right axle from the link shaft as simply beating on the shaft to remove it usually causes the link shaft to release from the t-case rather than the axle releasing from the link shaft. If you pull the shaft out of the transfercase too far you run the risk of damaging the seal inside the t-case that keeps the trans fluid from mingling with the t-case fluid, not a good thing. The t-case doesn't necessarilly have to be completely removed but with no hoist I wouldn't wish the job on anybody.

 

My JTIS covers up to Nov 2004 including X Type 2.0 diesels

 

thanks for replying. i have read your reply, and if by "hoist" you mean a lift for the car to raise the whole thing off the ground, then no. i do have an idea of how this will go down though. i have two ramps for changing oil that i will back the car onto(ramps under rear tires to lift rear of car) they are about 8" tall where tire sits.with the back endin the air, i will then raise the front with floor jack and secure with two jackstands. now car will be two tires on ramps, and front tires off the ground(they gotta come off anyway). this will lift my entire car off the ground about a foot in the front and 8" in the rear. i figure this will be enough space to do the job, and maybe raising the rear also i wont feel so cramped when im down there. i am not a master mechanic but i feel i can do this job. the whole thing is pretty basic, changing a gasket. only thing making this whole thing difficult when its broken down is one single friggen bolt. its ridiculious the way its set up. any way, i have just come inside form lifting my car and getting underneath to check it out. it appears that ifi follow JTIS instructions right up to the words "REMOVE the transfer case" that i may have a solution. now, i plan on having my car lifted as stated before, and using my floor jack i will support the transfer case when the final bolts come out of it. it seems as though if unbolted, properly supported, and carefully done; that i can slide the case over about 3". this should be enough to get a socket in there with an extension and be able to get that stubborn bolt out. if this works as planned i can see this job getting done quicker. is it worth the trouble to go to some length to keep the transfer case in the car or should i just take it out? thanks -steve

 

I certainly don't doubt your abilities as a mechanic. The problem is not just the pan bolt above the transfercase. There is also the cast iron bracket on the right side of the transfercase that has a bolt directly behind the rear catalytic converter that at least has to be loosened a few turns to get the bracket out or the t-case will be going nowhere. There is an updated procedure in a service bulletin to ease the removal of the bracket bolt and that's the reason they found it possible to lower the labor time but I don't know a single tech that has ever used that method. Then the t-case has to be removed more than a few inches. There are some castings on the t-case, engine block, oil pan, transmission that prevent the case from being twisted for better access to that bolt you are seeking without nearly removing the t-case anyways. All I'm suggesting is that you truly evaluate your tool box and experience to see if you have the necessary toools to get the job done. There are tricks you could do to cut the time but they require a little more room than a couple ramps and jack stands could provide.