Hello all, long time no post. Hoping the talents here can help me out with diagnosing a full crank no start on my "new to me" 06 estate:

Situation: Car was delivered with no keys (long story...sigh) but claimed it "ran when parked".... so I had new keys cut and programmed by a trusted local indy. Keys work without issue in the ignition and door locks. Security light does go out and car now cranks as long as requested but no start.

I have looked at the following:

• I have cycled the Alarm on and off with the door lock to hopefully rule out PMAS (car does fully lock, unlock and chirp appropriately).
• Security recognises keys and red telltale in the center console goes completely off
• Car will crank as long as key is held to start
• Fuel gauge indicates 3/4 of a tank and there is new fuel in the tank (no idea of age on the old stuff but assume its at least a couple years old)
• Fuel cut off switch in passenger footwell was popped but now reset
• Power at fuse 17 verified
• Power at fuel pump connector under rear seat verified at 11.1 volts on the red and yellow wires
• Fuel pump driver module under rear seat replaced with a known good from another running x-type (picture below)
• Fuel filter replaced with new Mann unit (there was fuel in the filter)
• Fuel Rail on my car does not have a Schrader valve for fuel pressure but disconnecting the quick connect shows no fuel at the rail
• Fuel pressure sensor on ODBII indicates .04 psi (so I assume it's working?)
• A full service has been done (front and rear plugs, coil connectors checked, mass air flow confirmed good, double checked all the connectors to the intake manifold

Is there anything else I am missing that wouldn't allow the Fuel Pump assembly in the tank to run? I am not looking forward to either cutting the floor of the car or dropping the tank to access it for replacement... Any help is greatly appreciated!!


fuel pump driver module that's been replaced.

 

extheaterkid, Lets try a few things before we just go after the fuel pump. The first thing I would try is removing the vacuum line going to the brake booster and spraying some ether in the hole and then putting the line back on. This should allow the engine to fire, start to come up in speed before using up all the ether. This will prove that your timing is good and you have good spark. Hate to see you go after something that seems to be a symptom rather than the actual problem.

Assuming the ether allowed the engine to fire, the next thing I would tell you to do is to go over to the passenger rear wheel (right rear wheel). Lay down on the ground and look at the under side of the car. You should see the fuel tank there. IN the fuel tank, you should see a large "C"/half moon in the tank. Make a fist and give the gas tank a good smack in the middle of that C/half moon. Now, attempt to start the car.

The third thing to try is to get into the car and turn off EVERYTHING. You want the car as quiet as possible. Now, roll the key to the RUN position (NOT START). You should hear a pump run for a second or two and then turn off. This is the fuel pump priming the fuel system. After about 3-4 seconds, now roll the key to the START position. Did the motor start this time? If yes, then this confirms that you have an issue with the fuel pump. If you didn't hear the fuel pump, then again, this confirms that the fuel pump is bad. I have heard of very few people having a problem with the fuel pump module. Almost all were the fuel pump itself.

Hope this gives you a few things to try and confirm what you are thinking.

 

If the car has actually been sitting for awhile as you indicate, I would suggest in addition to Thermo's suggestions to add ethanol treatment and let it sit for 24 hours. It's possible water has settled and that is what your pump picked up (provided it is still functioning properly).

 

Thanks Thermo and Squito for the great replies.

• Ether / Starting Fluid didn't get the engine to pop off.
• Banging on the pump did not get it to spin up
• I did pull the rubber cover back off of the inspection port and heard nothing from the pump (nor did I see fuel flow after smacking the tank)
• I treated the gas in the tank as a preventative measure given it's at least three years old at this point.

After those attempts, I felt it was necessary to go after the pump assembly.

Floor was cut back, thanks to everyone who has posted videos and pictures on where to cut! A metal nibbler and shears worked great on the thinner metal. A death wheel was needed for the triple layer areas. Fuel pump retaining ring was an absolute bear to remove and frustratingly I cracked it in the process.

Swapped in the new assembly (after fiddling with the fuel line connectors for way longer than should have been needed) and poof, 55.3 PSI indicated on OBD2 and confirmed pump prime at key turn. Still need to order the new ring but the old one is holding for it to sit in the driveway.

What's disappointing now is that I believe that the previous owner burned up the starter cranking the crap out of it due to the dead pump. I have a super slow crank and still no start. I also have the strong smell of burnt starter after cranking.

My other concern are the rotten battery cables which look to have the notorious interior corrosion. Once those parts are swapped I will let you know more.

 

The 2.5 & 3.0 X-Type don't have a fuel pump relay but anyway, the OP has already said he's changed the fuel pump by going in through the floor under the back seat, much easier than dropping the tank.