Hello fellow Jag enthusiasts

That would be my second topic, the first one was referring to rather silly question with regards to the CKP sensor, nevertheless that has been replaced already.

Main problem I have with my Jaguar is that is does not start easily when warm... or at least I suspect the heat to be the problem. Nevertheless, problem never occurs on a cold engine or for example, after subsequent starts when engine is still cold (so basically if I would turn it on, then off, then on so it does not have a time to heat up, it will not occur - at least I did not expect that).

I have replaced camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor, as it seemed reasonable and quite cheap to do - ~29GBP and 15 minutes of work does not sound expensive. Still, problem is not solved - the car seems to be running slightly smoother and better (for example, previously when the engine was cold and when shifting to 2nd gear early while close to idle RPM, engine would be jerking and running roughly; now after those sensors replacement I was not able to reproduce such behaviour) but problem with the warm start is not solved.

Two, maybe three years ago there was a restoration of some or all injectors (I don't remember, but didn't seem to be costly, otherwise I would remember). One, maybe two years ago I also started having problem with illuminated glow plug appeared during driving (sometimes 10-15 times throughout 40km drive) and then accelerator pedal not responding to any input - solution was to quickly cycle the key and then it was driving like normal. After that started happening, I put my car to the mechanic and in the end I believe he replaced or cleaned the potentiometers in the pedals, problem solved.

Car is idling more or less properly and consistent, however sometimes when it idles I feel like it is idling similar to the tractor, but well... that's the beauty of the diesel engines I guess.

Today I decided to reset the ECU, pulled F32 and F36 circuit breakers and then put them back after 10 minutes or so, initially car was working like complete trash but then after idling for roughly 15 minutes it started to operate more or less properly, after driving 10-15 miles and then parking it seemed to work more or less okay. And that's the moment I decided to record when I shut it down and then restart after ~10 seconds break. Please find the link to the video attached:

https://streamable.com/hh5gd9

Starts slightly sluggishly, but still - better than most of the times when it is warm (maybe because a small period of being switched off, 10 seconds between turning the engine off and then lighting it up again?). Then I decided to make myself a coffee and take a 10 minutes break, like I usually do at a gas station. Last time I spent there roughly ten minutes as well and then it took me ten seconds to start this poor thing. Nevertheless, I thought recording from an angle catching the engine bay might be useful, maybe you will be able to catch something out of ordinary.

https://streamable.com/4t75dr

So, as said before, ten minutes elapsed, started the engine (as you can see, really harsh start), then turned it off and tried to start again - again, slugishly but better compared to first trial. Nevertheless, then I gave up, finished my coffee and started to think what might be the issue.

As said before, I have done some fixes to the injectors already so I wouldn't blame them, I took the opportunity to call a local workshop specialising (apparently) in fixing injectors. I just said that this is a TDCI, it has warm start problem and so on - guy didn't even listen to me, said that it would be 1200-1300gbp/1700-1800 usd and this is common issue with this lovely engine, injectors and a pump has to be taken care off... Given the amount quoted, I would rather turn this car into razor blades than to invest more than a half of what its worth, so I will not probably be paying a visit in this workshop. I asked my fellow mechanic (he does not specialise in injectors though, he said he hates this engine, but he's a trusty guy) he will not be doing the "injector overflow test" (pardon, not native speaker) but he doubt it, those would be injectors since they were overhauled 2-3 years ago. Nevertheless, maybe some kind of workshops are doing the testing of the injectors and maybe such service is not a premium quote?

Would you have any advices were to look at? OBD gives me some error with regards to the EGR valve (P0406) - as far as I know, it was blanked before for the last 5-6 years and before I did not have any issues connected to that. Nevertheless, I took a look at it and I did not manage to find any kind of blanking part inside of it, maybe it is not? I will attach a picture to the post. Also, there is a "rich to lean sensor threshold voltage" written to the OBD somehow, nevertheless I don't know how to interpret this kind of error. I cleaned MAF sensor with some MAF sensor cleaner and then reinstalled it back, indications before cleaning and after are the same and seem to be erratic for my liking - I will post them in attachment (both are with idling conditions, sometimes the airflow fluctuates ~6g/s, then it goes up and fluctates ~13-14g/s? - is it normal?). When I went to the dealer, they said no ECU update is possible as the newest one is installed already (no configure file exists for the car) and they pinpointed that anyway, they would start looking for the problems from the side of EGR and the turbo actuator or turbo accessory box? Maybe you can spot something on the video unusual with regards to the turbo actuator? Nevertheless, any ideas highly appreciated and I swear - if those are the costly injectors+pump that would be the last diesel in my life, period.

Have a lovely day/evening,
Bart




EGR valve

MAF reading (idling)

MAF reading (idling)

Some of the error

 

Since I cannot edit the post, quick add...Now I realized, before I used to have a few instances when during the engine start up it would just ramp up to ~500RPM, then after a few seconds jumping to 800-900RPM and working normal from thereon. However, sometimes - a coil icon would be flashing and turbo cutoff, then after a restart it would go away. Just as an info, take care!

 

I'd try this (shows Mondeo but, exactly the same for our X's) =

 

Thanks for the suggestion! I doubt it will be necessary as I checked this push-rod movement of the actuator while it was disconnected from the actuator and it moves as freely as it gets on the cold engine.

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Generally I have been away for a few days therefore sorry for not replying to you guys. I checked the EGR and I had no blanking installed what-so-ever, I did not dismantle it completely to see if it clogged up but threw a blanking plate just in case for the troubleshooting, maybe I'll remove it later on once I will have some time to get it cleaned properly by myself. Blanking EGR changed absolutely nothing with regards to the starting/performance (car popped P0406 from time to time).

With regards to the turbo actuator, I disconnected the "push-plate/push-rod" from the actuator part when it was cold - it moves freely as it gets, nothing's getting stuck anywhere, operation is smooth and I presume in the full operating range. I disconnected the actuator connector and tried to start the car without it - glow plug illuminates (as expected, as it cannot move the actuator) but nothing changes with regards to the starting process itself. However, question here - should there be like a "pinging" sound coming from the actuator when the ignition is ON - like every second - "ping... ping... ping..". The actuator was making that sound on the warm engine, it did not perform the self test when ignition was turned ON from OFF however after start swinged full forward and was moving freely when dipping on the accelerator pedal, then hid itself back to the normal shutdown position once I turned off the car. Seems fine, except that sound - but it has this sound I believe from as far as I remember...

I disconnected the MAF - in my opinion, it idled crapier with MAF sensor disconnected than when it was connected; reconnected again as it made no change in the warm start issue.

With regards to the overall performance - engine's got the power, reving nicely, can feel turbo boosting, no smokey, idles... like a diesel, what more can I say. Just two things...
1. I could see some oil nearby middle injectors - wondering whether the oil appeared there while the mechanic was changing the oil like 2 weeks ago or something leaking?
2. While driving (before EGR blanking) around 1800RPM with 3/4gear I could feel some stuttering - it does not appear when driving on different RPM but around this 1800RPM sometimes the engines like... chokes for a milisecond or just starts to pull slightly harder? After blanking the EGR problem did not disappear (it does not always happen, but still). When it was warmed up and I was trying to maintain steady RPM on neutral gear it was no problem when it was ~1500RPM or 2500RPM, but when it was ~1800RPM the engine was kind of accelerating slightly by itself? Weird... I had an accelerator pedal problem, apparently it was resolved but maybe not? Could it be also making problems with regards to the hot start issue? Weird.

Take care!

 

I'm just posting to help anyone infuriated by the X type warm start problem. I got an instant fix with an ECU software upgrade from Bell Lane Garage in South Kirkby, near Pontefract in Yorkshire. The upgrade cost £90 plus VAT and the change was immediate, also got very much improved mpg (45-50 became 55-60). Bell Lane did the job while I went to get a breakfast and have a read of my book. Wish I'd done this months ago insead of reading about how to get the upgrade done using the SDD software, a Mangoose cable etc, which I think would have cost at least some money and likely not have worked. I've got no connection to Bell Lane Garage, other than as a happy customer with a very much fixed X type. :-)

 

It has been some time ever since I posted in this thread. I am sorry for the late reply but ever since I posted last time here I had some changes in my life and I was not driving my car for like last year.

Coming back to the topic, problem still persists and I believe it is even more pronounced than ever before. Idling got a little bit worse and even when driving it seems sometimes a little bit rough (~1800 RPM). Runs much louder than when I bought it a few years ago and basically sometimes feels more like a tractor. Starting problems when it was running before (1-2h before) has not changed, sometimes cranking for 10 seconds. EGR has been blanked, gave no improvement. Changed camshaft, crankshaft sensors - nothing. Today I did finally leak-off test and was surprised by the results. Normally, according to instructions I found online the total time needed to do it for Delphi TDCI 2.0 injectors was 5 minutes: 2 min idle - 30 sec 3800rpm - 30 sec idle - 3800 rpm 30 sec - 30 sec idle - 30 sec 3800rpm - 30 idle. Maximum return value returned to be not greater than 25ml.

For me, I stopped the test after 3min 20 sec due to one of the containers overfilling. Results as follows: 55ml/120ml+/55ml/40ml. I believe if I did the test till the end, results would be more like 90ml/200ml/90ml/60ml. Any chance of salvaging any of those injectors or all of them need renovation? Definetely number two, but about the rest I am not sure, though believe every each of them gotta be done properly.

Before I start with the injectors, do you believe anything else could be problematic?

In the returned fuel I saw no metallic particles but I'll cut open my fuel filter on Tuesday when I'll have a day off just to confirm state of the pump.

 

I had this on my tdci 2.0. Tried everything, it was software related. It needs to be updated, my jag had not been plugged into a computer for software updates. £80 and instantly fixed. I had this problem for over a year.