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200,000 miles and you name it happened

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Old 09-19-2021, 06:27 PM
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Default 200,000 miles and you name it happened

2004 Jaguar x type 2.4 awd. Been a great car till now, just turned 200,000 miles. Nothing but a headache now. First issue, when you go to crank car after sitting a while or overnight, you push in clutch and turn key to start, the starter ingages but engine will not turn, after a few try’s it finally starts but after starter disengages there is a pop in the lower engine housing and car seems ok. Replaced battery, starter, all connections good and still same issue. Even stranger the car never does this after running a while or warm? Cranks smoothly. It’s almost as if something locks down after sitting a while. Can’t find a pattern to when it does crank, except if I pump the clutch a few times it will start but the pop is still there after the starter disengages. This is ongoing and just started. Anyone got any suggestions?
 
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Old 09-20-2021, 08:15 AM
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sean, based on the conditions that you state, it almost sounds like the clutch is not fully disengaging and your issue is you are trying to roll the car with the starter until it breaks free. I guess the test I would try is to park the car on a hill facing downwards. Let the car get cold (into the condition that you have this problem) and then let the car roll downhill (in a controlled manner) and attempt to start the car that way. If it starts much easier, then this would confirm the issue. This would also explain why pumping the clutch a few times causes the car to start easier too. I guess it could be your clutch is not pushing the amount of fluid it used to and is causing this.

As for that pop, I would venture to guess that is the clutch breaking free from the flywheel. Kinda like what happens when you let your brakes remain engaged and the pads get a little bit of rust, causing them to stick to the rotor. Same idea.
 
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Old 09-20-2021, 11:51 AM
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Thermo has good advice here. When you try it, I would also release the brakes with the car in gear and push the clutch slowly to see at what point the car will move or not.
Second, does it work any differently if you put the car in neutral when starting?
 
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Old 09-22-2021, 05:53 PM
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Well guys I thought pumping the clutch was a pattern but now that doesn’t seem to be helping. So back to square one. The clutch gives me no problem after getting it started. And the car is just as smooth as it can be as far as clutch and trans. Just doesn’t add up. Brake on or off. Clutch pressed and in gear car will roll. Let off and and gear stops forward motion. Brake pressed no difference. Now a new symptom, the starter engaged and grounded which is not good. Is there any way this might be an electrical condition?
 
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Old 09-22-2021, 05:56 PM
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One thing I failed to mention is that I just had a new clutch, slave cylinder, and master cylinder replaced about a year ago.
 
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Old 09-22-2021, 06:19 PM
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Starter grinding in previous message.
 
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Old 09-22-2021, 09:44 PM
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Sean,
Just reading through your post......I am wondering if you have a mechanical alignment issue with the starter motor.
You have had recent clutch work done (within the last 12 months), so that might be a clue.
If the starter was removed in the process of accessing the flywheel and clutch etc, could you have an issue that its bolts have subsequently somehow worked a bit loose and the starter pinion gear is either binding in the ring gear, or the starter is not getting a good electrical grounding back through to the earthing or engine block?
The "OK when hot" could be a physical tolerance changing with expansion.
I think there are two bolts that mount the starter and a dowel to initially locate it. Probably a fairly quick spanner check to see if they are a problem.
 
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Old 09-23-2021, 01:00 PM
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I agree with Mark, based on the update about the recent clutch job and the starter grinding.
It would also explain why the clutch pumping would sometimes improve the odds of staring, because you are effectively pushing the engine and transaxle apart, which would likely alter the starter pinion and flywheel ring gear slightly, potentially for the better. You probably have some bolts that are loose around the bell housing, or you are possible missing a dowel to align the transaxle to the engine.
 
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Old 09-24-2021, 08:20 AM
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Could be a fuel injector leaking down overnight and hyrdrolocking the engine. Ive seen it before. If you can, hook up a fuel pressure gauge and see if it drops after shutting off the engine. The "pop" could just be the excess fuel burning off. Also could explain why it's OK after running for a while (no time for fuel to fill a cylinder)
 
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Old 09-24-2021, 06:09 PM
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To all I’ve replaced the battery and starter since this began. Also changed plugs, coil packs, injectors, new intake gaskets, maf sensor, crankshaft sensor, knock sensor, 1 upstream oxygen sensor, radiator, hoses, belts, all idler pully’s, all do to needed repair or routine maintenance. Again after this began. Can’t find any pattern like I thought. It may start up smooth, the starter may engage and stop, or it may crank and then a pop sounding like metal against metal, the pop is every time it’s not a smooth start, or the the stater engages and grinds???????
 
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Old 09-24-2021, 08:29 PM
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OK going back to the recent clutch job then, it sounds a lot like it could be a loose flywheel. Goes along with what everyone else is saying about starter alignment, just inside the bellhousing. Would also explain metal on metal sound, both grinding from the starter and the "pop" metal on metal
 
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Old 09-24-2021, 08:31 PM
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I always use Loctite on flywheel bolts, but if they didn't, could've worked loose
 
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Old 09-24-2021, 08:53 PM
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Ok is there any way to check? Such as remove starter and check thru stater hole may be with clutch pushed in and see if fly wheel has any movement?? Oh
 
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Old 09-24-2021, 08:56 PM
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Sure. Pull the starter and check for back and forth on the flywheel. Any play is waaaay too much.
 
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Old 09-24-2021, 09:00 PM
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10/4
 
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Old 09-24-2021, 09:03 PM
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Don't do it with the clutch pushed in. That will put pressure on the flywheel.
 
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Old 09-26-2021, 06:22 PM
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If you put some gear marking compound on the starter gear, or just some paint, it will give you some idea of the tooth contact. You might also be able to measure the gap with a dial caliper with a straight edge across the top of the starter mounting location, and then check the same depth on the starter itself.

I don't know if these shims work, but I think they could be shortened to fit if necessary.
https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-41-02336.aspx

It does sound a little like the starter is too close, which would get better with a shim, but if it could be too far, which is not as easy to solve.
 
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