2001 X-Type 2.5 Poor fuel consumption Help please
#1
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi all i have a 2001 X-Type 2.5 but i notice the fuel consumption is very poor. I can only get around 260 to 280 km from a full tank gas. Is this normal? I have tested it for many weeks already it's consistantly smililar. Help would be greatly appreciated.
Nick
Nick
#2
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
i am also a fresh Jag owner and i have only done over 1000km in 2 weeks and on the highway i do around 600km with a full tank with auto cruise set to 130-140km, the speed limit here is 120 and it's full of radars
, but in the city i do half of the km with a tank if not even less, a medium fuel consumption is around 15L/100km, the tank has about 55-60L. If you're doing 280km on a highway with a full tank that is a problem, maybe with the O2 sensor...
![Frown](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#3
#5
#6
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Maybe, try putting some cleaner in the tank or some octane booster. I've done both of these and the best I have gotten in milage was 34 miles to a gallon. Normal driving is 23 to 26 miles to a gallon. Cleanning out those injectors will help a lot. I have an 02 x-type, automatic, with 101376 miles.
#7
Join Date: Jan 2024
Location: Riversone, NSW, Australia
Posts: 18
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Good Morning all. I came across this old thread but my issues are similar. If I can get some expert advice, please.
My car is a 2001 X-Type 3.0 V6 AWD. I got this car several months ago. I love the drive but it is hurting my wallet. I visit the pump very often, In Australia I use 98 octane fuel and it's expensive ( almost 2.0 per litre).
Initially, the car hesitated on acceleration and after some research changed the MAF. The one I had in the car was a Denso. However, the local shop that supplies parts for European cars offered an original Delphi that I installed. The acceleration issue was fixed instantly.
But the Fuel consumption is absolutely horrible. the onboard reading is about 17 L/100km and when I did the calculations manually it's about 18-19 L / 100KM. half a tank of fule for 78km![Icon Frown](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_frown.gif)
I am waiting for an OBD scanner to get some codes. Can I please get some help to troubleshoot this issue? I am working on a budget and want to avoid the garage if I can (Considering it costs about A$ 1010.00 at a Jaguar dealership in Sydney for a basic service).
My car is a 2001 X-Type 3.0 V6 AWD. I got this car several months ago. I love the drive but it is hurting my wallet. I visit the pump very often, In Australia I use 98 octane fuel and it's expensive ( almost 2.0 per litre).
Initially, the car hesitated on acceleration and after some research changed the MAF. The one I had in the car was a Denso. However, the local shop that supplies parts for European cars offered an original Delphi that I installed. The acceleration issue was fixed instantly.
But the Fuel consumption is absolutely horrible. the onboard reading is about 17 L/100km and when I did the calculations manually it's about 18-19 L / 100KM. half a tank of fule for 78km
![Icon Frown](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_frown.gif)
I am waiting for an OBD scanner to get some codes. Can I please get some help to troubleshoot this issue? I am working on a budget and want to avoid the garage if I can (Considering it costs about A$ 1010.00 at a Jaguar dealership in Sydney for a basic service).
Last edited by mr.aus; 02-23-2024 at 06:30 PM.
Trending Topics
#8
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Start with some zero cost basics before diving into the engine.
Make sure your tyre pressures are correct and you don't have obvious uneven wear on tyres that would point to alignment issues.
Check your air filter, if it is clogged, you will get reduced power and high fuel consumption.
Also after a short continuous drive that doesn't require braking, pull up at the end and touch check the temperature of your four wheel rims.
You could have a dragging brake caliper that is giving you economy problems.
If the car rolls smoothly, and can easily draw breath, if you still have abnormally poor economy you will then likely have to delve into engine management with some diagnostics.
Make sure your tyre pressures are correct and you don't have obvious uneven wear on tyres that would point to alignment issues.
Check your air filter, if it is clogged, you will get reduced power and high fuel consumption.
Also after a short continuous drive that doesn't require braking, pull up at the end and touch check the temperature of your four wheel rims.
You could have a dragging brake caliper that is giving you economy problems.
If the car rolls smoothly, and can easily draw breath, if you still have abnormally poor economy you will then likely have to delve into engine management with some diagnostics.
#9
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,425
Likes: 0
Received 3,910 Likes
on
3,212 Posts
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
mr. aus, if all this started after the MAF sensor, then I would be looking at that first. You may want to spend some time finding a Denso MAF sensor. Installing them is easy and I am sure you can do it to save you some shop cost (2 screws and it pulls right out with 1 electrical connector). That may be your fix.
Assuming that this doesn't fix things, then I would next check out your e-brake. When you set it, does it come up a little bit or does it come up a lot (feels like it hits a stop vice gradually getting tighter and tighter?) Ify ou can pull the e-brake lever high, then odds are, your bad mileage is due to having your e-brake on all the time. You can do say a 10KM run and then put your hand near the rotor. If it is really hot, then there is your problem. It should be semi warm. Should be a little cooler than your front rotors.
After this, I would be looking at putting on a new fuel filter. Could be you got something from a gas station and it has clogged up the fuel filter and it is causing the low mileage. You would not be the first to have experienced something like this.
Assuming that this doesn't fix things, then I would next check out your e-brake. When you set it, does it come up a little bit or does it come up a lot (feels like it hits a stop vice gradually getting tighter and tighter?) Ify ou can pull the e-brake lever high, then odds are, your bad mileage is due to having your e-brake on all the time. You can do say a 10KM run and then put your hand near the rotor. If it is really hot, then there is your problem. It should be semi warm. Should be a little cooler than your front rotors.
After this, I would be looking at putting on a new fuel filter. Could be you got something from a gas station and it has clogged up the fuel filter and it is causing the low mileage. You would not be the first to have experienced something like this.
#10
Join Date: Jan 2024
Location: Riversone, NSW, Australia
Posts: 18
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thank you h2o2steam and Thermo for your advice. Will look into the alignment and the tyre pressure. I wanted to change the air filter as well.
The Gas mileage was an issue even before the MAF change and I feel it has gotten worse after the MAF change. I will have to get a denso. The e-brake lever needs to go high for it to get engaged.. I will do the drive test and give an update.
Also thank you for the heads-up on the fuel filter. Will look into this as well.
Will return after I troubleshoot these. Thank you once again.
The Gas mileage was an issue even before the MAF change and I feel it has gotten worse after the MAF change. I will have to get a denso. The e-brake lever needs to go high for it to get engaged.. I will do the drive test and give an update.
Also thank you for the heads-up on the fuel filter. Will look into this as well.
Will return after I troubleshoot these. Thank you once again.
Last edited by mr.aus; 02-23-2024 at 10:03 PM.
#11
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,425
Likes: 0
Received 3,910 Likes
on
3,212 Posts
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
mr. aus, if your e-brake lever has to go high for it to engage, that is telling me you have an issue with the e-brake system. If you search my name and e-brake, I have a lengthy write up about the e-brake system and what you can do if you have issues. I was goign as far as rebuilding my own calipers. For what they cost, if you only see this happenign 1 time, then I would just buy a rebuilt caliper and call it good. The trick is figuring out which side it is. But, that is all explained in my post.
#13
Join Date: Jan 2024
Location: Riversone, NSW, Australia
Posts: 18
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi Again, I am back. Since my last post, i have looked at the e-break and they both are engaging and disengaging with no drag on the wheels. I have changed the Air and fuel filters and done the tyre checks. I got a cheap scanner and the issue is that it is showing that bank 1 and 2 o2sensor heater element coed and also it is showing a tcm module error. Could these be the reason for the high gas consumption? ( still, about 15l/100km and the price of 98 octane in Australia has passed $2.20/litre) However, what I have also realised it that on occation when I am coasting I feel that the car is being held back and once I tap the gas peddle a few quick taps this resolve.(don't know if i am imagining this). Also once i drive for a while and reset the fuel usage calculator the values come down as low as 11.9L/KM but it goes back to 15L/!00km and hovers around this until I reset.
Any way to diagnose the issue with the TCM, please
Also with the O2 sensors, the originals cost an arm and a leg in Australia, however (Super cheap Auto - Australian auto store) has the bosch for a reasonable price(still expensive). Advice on this too.
Any way to diagnose the issue with the TCM, please
Also with the O2 sensors, the originals cost an arm and a leg in Australia, however (Super cheap Auto - Australian auto store) has the bosch for a reasonable price(still expensive). Advice on this too.
#14
#15
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,425
Likes: 0
Received 3,910 Likes
on
3,212 Posts
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
mr.aus, you are not imagining the car being drug down by the tranny when coasting. This is a function of the tranny. believe it or not. When you are cruising at highway speed, the tranny goes into what is called "torque converter lockup". What this really means is the RPM of the engine matches the input shaft of the tranny (ie, no slippage by the torque converter). This helps the car slowly coast down in speed. You want to unlock the torque converter, simply give the brake a quick tap (enough to light the lights). This will cause the tranny to unlock.
Another way to prove this is to be driving down the highway and give the car some more gas pedal. If you watch the engine RPMs, they do not immediately climb, they will gradually climb as the speed rises. Where, if you ride the brakes ever so slightly and then give the car some gas, you will see the engine RPMs jump immediately by a few hundred RPM and then rise from there followed by a drop in RPMs after letting off of the brake.
With this being said, if your engine is not running correctly, the amount that the engine slows the car down may be exaggerated, giving you the feel that you are feeling.
Another way to prove this is to be driving down the highway and give the car some more gas pedal. If you watch the engine RPMs, they do not immediately climb, they will gradually climb as the speed rises. Where, if you ride the brakes ever so slightly and then give the car some gas, you will see the engine RPMs jump immediately by a few hundred RPM and then rise from there followed by a drop in RPMs after letting off of the brake.
With this being said, if your engine is not running correctly, the amount that the engine slows the car down may be exaggerated, giving you the feel that you are feeling.
#17
Join Date: Jan 2024
Location: Riversone, NSW, Australia
Posts: 18
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thank you Thermofor the explanation. I am happy that I am not imagining. it constantly feels like I am being dragged back by a gear when I am coasting. today the car came to a complete stop when I was coasting at lower speed. Any possible checks and fixes?? how can this affect the gas mileage?
can I also ask this may be a silly question, when the car is stopped at a traffic light, why does the gas usage display (l/100km) keep climbing, is it because there is no airflow through the MAF but the fule is getting injected, Shouldnt there be zero gas flow as no acceleration....Sorry, it might be a silly question.
Anything to get this gas mileage down.
can I also ask this may be a silly question, when the car is stopped at a traffic light, why does the gas usage display (l/100km) keep climbing, is it because there is no airflow through the MAF but the fule is getting injected, Shouldnt there be zero gas flow as no acceleration....Sorry, it might be a silly question.
Anything to get this gas mileage down.
#18
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,425
Likes: 0
Received 3,910 Likes
on
3,212 Posts
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
mr.aus, I am not used to the L/100KM as I am normally looking at Miles/gallon (damn Yanks, LMAO). But, look at it this way, the lower your number gets, the better the fuel consumption is, ie, you are able to go 100KM on less fuel. When you are sitting still, what is causing the motor to still run? Obviously there is fuel entering the engine to keep it running. Yet, you are not moving (ie, adding KMs to your 100KM figure). So, your fuel consumption for the period you are stopped is going to be higher for a distance travelled as you are using fuel, yet not moving. Not trying to sound sarcastic or anything, just trying to break it down to help explain what you are seeing.
As for how the coasting is affecting your fuel consumption, I think it can be most easily explained by saying that your engine is not outputting the power it should be due to some inefficiency (low fuel pressure, misfiring fuel injector, bad MAF sensor, etc) in the engine. This is causing the engine to be more resistive to the car moving. So, this is causing you to have to use more fuel to make it do what it used to. So, the trick is to find what is causing your engine to not be 100% happy. We have covered a few things above. If those do not correct things, then let us know and we will see what we can do for you.
As for how the coasting is affecting your fuel consumption, I think it can be most easily explained by saying that your engine is not outputting the power it should be due to some inefficiency (low fuel pressure, misfiring fuel injector, bad MAF sensor, etc) in the engine. This is causing the engine to be more resistive to the car moving. So, this is causing you to have to use more fuel to make it do what it used to. So, the trick is to find what is causing your engine to not be 100% happy. We have covered a few things above. If those do not correct things, then let us know and we will see what we can do for you.
#19
Join Date: Jan 2024
Location: Riversone, NSW, Australia
Posts: 18
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi Thermo,
Thank you for taking time to explain. I did wonder on the gas to milage indicator when i was parked at a set of traffic lights and makes more sense now.
As per the second issue, i totaly agree there is something going on. I feel sometimes i have to give more gas to move than others, and as i said before sometimes the car comes to a stop when i am coasting in drive, and mw not applying breaks, other times it coasts fine????
The latest update was i pumped 50L(13 gallons) of 98octane and almost 3/4 tank empty and did only 84km (52miles)
.
Thank you for taking time to explain. I did wonder on the gas to milage indicator when i was parked at a set of traffic lights and makes more sense now.
As per the second issue, i totaly agree there is something going on. I feel sometimes i have to give more gas to move than others, and as i said before sometimes the car comes to a stop when i am coasting in drive, and mw not applying breaks, other times it coasts fine????
The latest update was i pumped 50L(13 gallons) of 98octane and almost 3/4 tank empty and did only 84km (52miles)
![Icon Cry](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_cry.gif)
#20
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,425
Likes: 0
Received 3,910 Likes
on
3,212 Posts
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
mr.aus, I am assuming you do not have a check engine light (CEL) lit on the instrument cluster. If yes, then please get a code reader and send us the code(s).
Assuming you have no light, I have a few things for you to try for me.
1) Get into the car and turn the ignition key to the RUN position (do not start the car), does the CEL light come on now? It should, if it doesn't then you have a problem with your instrument cluster and that is something else we will need to deal with.
2) Take the car for a drive around the block and do some gentle braking. Try to get up to 50 KM/hr, if not faster. Get back home and park the car (turn off engine). Get out of the car and place your hand NEAR!!!!!! the rotors on each wheel. They should all be slightly warm, but not hot. They should all be roughly the same temperature too. Is one or more wheels to the point that you would consider them hot. Could be that your ABS system is keeping the brake on. If you suspect this, I would say to lift the rear of the car into the air (getting both tires off of the ground and ensuring that your front wheels are blocked front and rear). Then release the e-brake. Now, at one tire, try to spin it. Does it move easily or is there resistance? Return all wheels to the ground.
3) Start the car. With the engine atleast semi-warmed up, rev the engine while in PARK. Does the engine seem to respond quickly or do the engine RPMs seem to go up slower than expected.?
4) with the engine running, get your nose near the exhaust. Does it seem to have a distinct smell of fuel or more like exhaust?
5) ( can be done in conjunction with Step 2) After a drive, when you get out of the car, does there seem to be a "hot smell" coming from the car? If yes, can you narrow down where the smell is coming from?
From what I am gathering, you have 1 of 3 issues. You could have a stuck fuel injector, but this should be shown by a flashing CEL light and also codes being present. The second potential is you have a problem with your ABS system. That would result in hot rotors on your car. The third potential is you have a failing transfer case/transmission/rear end and that is going to cause the item to run very hot (hence a hot smell).
Assuming you have no light, I have a few things for you to try for me.
1) Get into the car and turn the ignition key to the RUN position (do not start the car), does the CEL light come on now? It should, if it doesn't then you have a problem with your instrument cluster and that is something else we will need to deal with.
2) Take the car for a drive around the block and do some gentle braking. Try to get up to 50 KM/hr, if not faster. Get back home and park the car (turn off engine). Get out of the car and place your hand NEAR!!!!!! the rotors on each wheel. They should all be slightly warm, but not hot. They should all be roughly the same temperature too. Is one or more wheels to the point that you would consider them hot. Could be that your ABS system is keeping the brake on. If you suspect this, I would say to lift the rear of the car into the air (getting both tires off of the ground and ensuring that your front wheels are blocked front and rear). Then release the e-brake. Now, at one tire, try to spin it. Does it move easily or is there resistance? Return all wheels to the ground.
3) Start the car. With the engine atleast semi-warmed up, rev the engine while in PARK. Does the engine seem to respond quickly or do the engine RPMs seem to go up slower than expected.?
4) with the engine running, get your nose near the exhaust. Does it seem to have a distinct smell of fuel or more like exhaust?
5) ( can be done in conjunction with Step 2) After a drive, when you get out of the car, does there seem to be a "hot smell" coming from the car? If yes, can you narrow down where the smell is coming from?
From what I am gathering, you have 1 of 3 issues. You could have a stuck fuel injector, but this should be shown by a flashing CEL light and also codes being present. The second potential is you have a problem with your ABS system. That would result in hot rotors on your car. The third potential is you have a failing transfer case/transmission/rear end and that is going to cause the item to run very hot (hence a hot smell).
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)