Just a supplemental note, to those other members here down under, Penrite fully and semi synthetic ATFs are suitable, and meet all spec requirements for the 5 speed auto, but are not cheap, about $44 per 4 litres

 

Hi all, same problem here. 2003 XType, Check Engine Light is on and blinks when the engine is extremely cold, cruise not available. If I try and accelerate too quickly the car bucks. Other than vacuum hoses and O Rings has anyone else found out what needs to be replaced?

 

HI! I just purchased the 02 x type with 120k on it and cruise control was not available right away, I didn't know it can be something serious. I don't have the check engine light or anything but can the light be caused by transmission? as its making weird noise sometimes and you can feel it shifting from P to REAR or drive like a bump, it also highly vibrates on higher speed (50+). I know that local small dealership is never willing to fix it so shall I take where? its too expensive to take it to the dealer as car is not worth it. any suggestions?

 

Alechka, first off, welcome to the Forums. I think you will find lots of very friendly people here that are willing to help you out. But, we do ask a small thing from you to help get you into the pride. Please stop by the New Member Section and tells us a little bit about yourself. We like to get to know one another and this also gives you a chance to meet those that make this place what it is.

As for your car, you are most likely looking at a few different issues all at the same time. I guess the first thing that I would ask is what codes are in the engine computer. Your local auto parts store can read the codes for you and if you post them here, that will help get us rolling in the right direction. I can give you a laundry list of stuff to change in hopes that it will fix the issue. But, unless I know the codes and/or can get my hands on the car (not likely as I live in Maryland), I am taking some guesses as to what is wrong.

Now, with this all being said, lets start with the "Cruise Not Available" issue. If you open the hood of your car, you should see a big plastic cover over the engine. Remove the 3 screws holding it in place and remove it from the engine (most likely need to temporarily remove the oil cap to get the cover off). Now, if you look right in front of you, you should see a black box that says "JAGUAR" on it. Look to the right side of it and follow that big black hose to the right some. Where the black hose meets with the silver, metal part (the silver metal part is called the throttle body), look just to the left and that and you should see a hose there about the size of your thumb in diameter running from near the air box (the piece that says "JAGUAR" on it to the large silver piece covering the top of the engine (this is the intake). Is this hose smooth or is it ribbed (if you have to ask, it is the smooth hose)? if it is the smooth hose, remove the hose and look at the underside of the hose. I bet you will find a split in the hose. If so, you need a new hose (the hose is called a "PCV breather hose"). If you have the ribbed hose or this smooth hose looks fine, then I would next look at the throttlebody electrical connectors (these will be pointing towards the front bumper, one on each side of the black tube going to the throttle body). Do these look like they are in 1 piece or do they look like they are broken and missing pieces? If they look good, then odds are we are still looking at a bad hose, just not in this initial area. If they look bad, then I would try to push them back on to the throttle body to see if that helps anything out.

As for you vibration. Is the steering wheel wobbling back and forth when the car is vibrating or does the vibration feel like it is coming from under the driver's seat. If it is coming from under the driver's seat, odds are you have a carrier bearing that needs some TLC. It may be nothing more than something that can be fixed with a litlte bit of grease being injected into the bearing (if the grease doesn't take it away 100%, then you are most likely looking at needing a new carrier bearing). If the wobble is in the steering wheel, I would first get an alignment done on the car and have them inspect the tread closely for any signs of abnormal wear. If you are seeing abnormal wear, odds are you need new struts on the car and the wobble is caused by the tires not wearing properly. Otherwise, you are most likely looking at a rim or two (possibly more) that has gotten bent and the only way to fix the wobble is to get new rims for the car.

As for the tranny, this is not my forte. But, most of the problems people experience are solved by simply making sure the tranny has enough fluid in it. Low fluid can cause it to shift funny. After that, my advise would be to stop by a tranny shop and have them give it a quick look over.

Now you mention that you don't have the check engine light. If you insert the key to the RUN position and don't start the car, does the check engine light come on? If not, then odds are you have a bad CEL light and you really have a few codes in the ECU, but they are not being made aware to you. If you are getting the "Cruise Not Available" message, then the car is sensing an issue and should be throwing atleast 1 code.

Hope I didn't information overload you. As you see, we are more than willing to help you figure things out. But, you may be getting a little bit of grease under your fingernails too. But, if you don't want to pay top dollar to have your car worked on, diagnosing the car yourself is going to save a lot of money and make you a smarter car owner too.

 

Had the same problem with my Jaguar when connected to the computer it say lean bank 1 and 2 something when cruise not available is usually the 02 sensor and IMT.

Mine got messed up bevause there was an antifreeze leak hitting on the o2 sensor. Fized the leak and sensors car running good.

 

Thank you so much for your help! It turned out the drive sheft was messed up wich caused the vibration, it might need u joint and some other stuff like bearing, rubber parts, but tranny is fine... But the car won't talk to the computer! So we can't find out what's going on with electronics, something is beeping all the time inside ... Computer problem? Mechanic doesn't know as it's not showing anything

 

thermo is pretty much right on it. While your vibration may be driveshaft etc. Most no cruise is caused by a vacuum leak. And sometimes unless you're using a good scanner some generic ones will not read correctly or show codes that are there. Your "mechanic" know Jaguars? I meen really know them. If not you can easily spend way more money through parts and time on a car than going to a dealer or someone that KNOWS the car. You need to use a Jaguar scqanner to pull up issues with car that sometimes are not related to OBD2 coding, and sounds(to me) like your mechanic is clueless. Or maybe just the transferance of his thoughts to you and then to here.
But this goes to everyone out there. TAKE YOUR CAR TO SOMEONE THAT KNOWS AND HAS ALOT OF EXPERIANCE OF YOUR CAR REGARDLESS, QUIT GOING TO THESE ONE STOP I WORK ON IT ALL SHOPS!
Knowing the common issues saves alot of time and money. Cheaper does NOT = less cost in the long run. and I have a TON of stories to back this up all the time. keep us posted

 

Have you had an ECU update at jaguars? My 'cruise not available' light comes on intermittently as does my' phone not connected' light. This is all down to the update, had mine reset 3 times still have the problem from time to time, I turn off the engine remove the key, then restart

 

Thanks for laying it out straight! Good detailed hints, very clear!!

 

I had the "No Cruise Available" fault. I had to replace all these parts, all were bad.
Three main causes.

 

I agree with jet black, mine did this this past winter and when I changed the intake gaskets they looked fine, but it cured all the problems.

 

would youguys say that cruise not available only pertains to vaccum leaks ??? because i have it flashing along with the orange light. but i also have a CEL on for misfires. can the misfires cause the cruise not available ?

 

Just an FYI

I had a cruse not available and the bucking on hard acceleration.
Sprayed carb cleaner on all vac points as above no change in engine tone.
turned out to be a weak battery, go figure new battery solved the problem for me.
a quick trip to any parts store and have your battery checked if nothing else will eliminate that. Our cats need a good strong battery as the electronics use 12V instead of 5V like other cars. Thanks Jag Engineers(may have been the Ford guys getting one over on them though )

 

Thank everyone one this site. My have a 2002 Jaguar X type that hated cold weather. It ran rough and had error message (Cruise not Available). We changed the Intake Manifold Gasket and Intake Plenum Gasket and car purrs like a baby. Thank you for all the help.

 

I have a 2002 X-type with the 2.5L. I also experienced the misfires while driving below 2k rpm, as it got colder the engine started surging and wouldn't rev above 3k rpm. Also when it started with a cold engine it would have a very rough idle. I had codes read P0420 and P0430. I looked at my pcv and breather hose, the 'O' rings, and other vacuum lines and couldn't determine anything bad visually. I checked the operation of the brake booster check valve, cleaned the PCV with brake cleaner because it was junked up with oil, I took the two vacuum lines elbows out of the top of the intake manifold including the little brittle plastic retainer clips and used black rtv to reassemble the elbows back into the manifold. I let the rtv dry, started the engine, and checked things out again. Well at first the motor stumbled a little at idle. I revved the motor and it still surged at about 2 to 3k rpm. Then I just let it run for a minute or two more. The rpm's smoothed out, so I took that as a cue to check the engine at higher rpm's. That also turned out normal again! Nice smooth acceleration. I took it on a drive and had no more misfire below 2k rpm and no more hiccups or jerking! Other factors was that it was using just regular gas. I burned through a half tank of premium by this point. The only thing left is that I still have the check engine light on. I hope it will clear itself out.

 

I see all the all the post and they have really helped me with my car.. I did I complete tune up .. I changed the spark plugs, coils, seals complete kit...even the o rings. And the oxygen sensors.. I thought all was good but it lasted for 2 days until the engine light started blinking again.. I looked for hoses broken can't see any..I checked my breaker booster and it seems just a bit old... I cleared the codes but again the same codes came up..

. Please need help I'm thinking of changing the booster breaker that's the only thing i can thin off...HELP PLEASE
JUDITHORTEGA125@GMAIL.COM

 

OK Guys, Looking for a little help... Thi sis my daughters car and she is having all the problems described in this thread. At first fault caodes showed misfires, so we started replacing all 6 coils. No we have the lean codes indicating air getting in past the Mass Air Flow Sensor. I have replaced the O rings. Breather hose is newwer and appears in good shape. Will replace the other hoses, and have removed the intake manifold and am replacing the gaskets, but when i took off the manifold i have ALOT of oil leaking out of the manifold. My guess is that oil is moving from the breather valve into the intake manifold but should that happen? or be that much? What do i do to prevent this in the future?

 

Gman: A thin film of engine oil in the intake manifold is to be expected in high mileage cars. It's aspirated from the crankcase via the PCV valve & hose. But "ALOT of oil" suggests it's time to replace the PCV valve.

Here's a website describing how PCV valves work, and what can go wrong when they fail, including excessive oil loss/consumption:
AGCO Automotive Repair Service - Baton Rouge, LA - Detailed Auto Topics - What are the Symptoms of a Bad PCV Valve

Our X-Types have straight or L-shaped PCV valves, depending on your engine & VIN, so replace it with the same type. It's a $10-15 part and a few minutes effort.

 

Great link and info dwclapp! I will order a PCV Valve as they do not have it in stock.

I put the car back together after replacing the intake manifold gaskets. I still have the flashing check engine light, and the cruise not available (even though it does work). It idles smooth, but when i accelerate, and hit 3K RPM it immediately stallsm, and in order to get it to stop stalling i have to take my foot off the gas. I can do 70 on the freeway just fine, as long as i accelerate slowly. runs great as long as you keep it under 3K RPM...

Any thoughts? I have replaced Plugs, Coils, Intake manifold gaskets...

 

ghostman, the lack of ability to get above 3000 RPM is a protective function of the car to prevent damage to the engine yet still allow you to get down to the road to a safe location. As long as you have the "NO CRUISE AVAILABLE" message, you will be restricted in the max RPMs you can achieve.