ok... well I will need to change the knock sensor, today I spend some time at a salvage part yard to remove the manifold, get the lower IMT valve and train myself for the moment to remove the manifold, I saw the knock sensor but I couldn't remove it due to the position of the bolts, it will be a "mayor maintenance job" but I will do it, before I start I will get the gaskets, spark plugs, maybe the ignition coils and go for...
thanks for all the support and advices.
best regards!

 

Hello, thank you very much, this is a great post, I know that it will be really hard for me to change the knock sensor, I found on eBay the KS305, item number 251873985777 but it seems to be only for the S Type...
is it the same for the X Type?
thanks again.

 

New Knock sensor input: A little over a year ago I followed the illustrated guide to replacing the knock sensor on an X Type and wrote that I elected not to do it. I was partially wrong. I removed the intake manifold; the attendant hoses and clips then dug into the innards of the valley between the cylinder banks. After removing the fuel rail and injectors I unplugged the knock sensor at the harness and gave it a good think. "*******s" thought I, "They've managed to hide every bolt behind another piece to be dismantled except one: about four inches to the right of the sensor there is a little bolt screwed into the block. I managed to get a 10mm socket on it and took it out. It was too short to go through my new sensor, so I found a standard 125 pitch 6mm bolt, cut it so it protruded about 5-6 mm beyond the sensor, rounded the hex at the top, cut a slot in it and "VIOLA!" (or Cello) I secured my new knock sensor to the block slightly under the coolant pipe. This is FAR FAR FAR easier than draining the cooling system and ripping up the debris etc... I connected the new sensor, cut the wire on the old one and left it in place, put everything back together and it's fixed. If it fails again I can swap it out in no time. I'd post a picture but I don't know how. Anyway, if you tear into your motor to replace the knock sensor, you'll see the bolt I'm talking about.
Cheers,
Zaphod

 

wow!...
so you put the new KS in a different place without removing the original one!... that's sounds like a lifesaver, yes I know that it's almost impossible to take it out, so... I definitely will try this!!!
thank you very much!

 

Greetings all , I know this thread is a little stale but, I have a solution i did not see mentioned so I figured I'd share it because it took me FOREVER to find out the real issue, I replaced coils, plugs, cleaned injectors, o rings, gaskets, booster hose, pcv hose and NONE of them fixed the issue. SOOO after spending $$$$ and lots of crying I figured out that the female adapter on top of the intake where the booster hose connects was worn and did not seal, so I removed the connector from the manifold and wrapped it with heat shrink, cut the end off and put it back in the manifold I then did the same thing to the male end of the hose that plugs in and VOILA !!!! prob solved. that little tiny bit of wiggle room was all it took to make the car run like ****.....
Best of luck to you , hope this helps at least ONE person before they spend their life savings replacing everything else like my dumbass.

 

Thank you very much for the tip, if you can see on one of the pictures i posted, there are 2 famele connectors for vacum hose, I will do this on both of them, so I make sure I dont miss any of them.
anyways i think due to the code P0333 that I still will need to put a new Knock Sensor, but probably this can help with the "Cruise not Available" issue.
Thanks again!!!

 

Had the problem look at the lay on the pedal may need slack taken that sorted my cruise control

 

Same issue, replaced one of the sensors, the one closes to the radiator. I need to replace the one behind under the manifold. Need to run it to get the new code. Cruise not available wil come up and this is due to the O2 sensor on my end. The sensor I took out was beaten like a b****. So, it needed replacement. Check out the picture of the ODB reading and the bad and good sensor.

 

How did it work for you? I've put 3000 miles on mine trouble free.
Cheers,
Zaphod

 

Hi guys and gals I've had this problem for months now, the bucking engine at between 2000 and 3000 revs and cruise control not available( although it does still work most of the time). CEL flashes along with another orange light below the rev counter. My problem is my engine does not tally with the pictures I've seen on here.
1. the 0-rings are on the top facing skywards and not the side. Picture 1 and 2.
2. To the right of the check valve I have a t piece with a small tube going down which disappears under the battery shelf. Picture 3 and 4.
3. My battery light is coming on intermittently on the dash, although a mechanic has told me the battery is fine.
I'm sure I read somewhere that the battery light can be caused by an incompatible alternator.
codes I'm getting are
P0300 multiple misfires
P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire
P0303 Cylinder 3 misfire
P0305 Cylinder 5 misfire
this is the scary one
P1313 misfire catalyst damage bank A
I bought the car just over a year ago. Is this engine a mish mash or possibly an s type engine fitted in an x type body.
Heeeeeelp please.


I think this is one of the 0-rings<br/>Pic 1. these are facing up



and this is the other one<br/>Pic 2



this is the t piece to the right of the check valve

 

The light is flashing because the misfires are so bad it is causing damage to the catalytic converter. Stop driving the car until you get the issue addressed! You have severe misfires in Bank 1. Check the coils and wiring to them and the spark plugs. You might want to also look at the intake manifold gaskets. They could be leaking causing oil to get into the plug wells. That might be a good place to start.

 

Thanks for your response Alfadude. I had the plugs and I think the MAF sensor done a couple of months ago. Would the mechanic have noticed if there was oil in the wells. Sorry mate I am a complete dipstick when it comes to cars. Can you tell me where the intake manifold is. Is there a picture on here I can look at. Sorry to be a pest but does my engine correspond to an x-type. The mechanic I use is Spanish and only speaks a little English. I would like to show him what I want him to change.

 

Go up to the top of the X-Type forum page and look at the Sticky labeled "How to: Tune up/Spark Plug Change FAQ. There are a lot of pictures of the engine, intake, gaskets, IMT valves, etc.. Should look pretty much the same no matter 2.5 liter or 3.0 liter. Should answera lot of your questions.

And, yes, your mechanic would have seen if there was oil in teh plug wells.

Did the issue start right after he changed the plugs or did it start in say, like 20,000 miles or so after he changed the plugs? If it is the latter, maybe he used improper plus and they need to be replaced.

 

Thanks Alfadude. I took the car for a diagnostics test about 6 months ago to try and pin down this problem. They said it was the plugs, so so I had the mechanic change them all for Jaguar recommended plugs. This obviously wasn't the problem though. The mechanic then put a meter on it and said it was the MAF sensor so I ordered a new one and had him change that, but to no avail, the problem is still there. Should I still go ahead with your suggestion regarding the intake gaskets. Going by most of the posts on here is it still likely to be caused by a vacuum leak or is mine more serious than that.

 

test

 

Hi Alfadude can you tell me what oils, grease or sprays I will need to do the coils and intake manifold gaskets. I've decided to be brave and do it myself. I've got nothing to lose. I'm fed up paying mechanics to guess what is wrong. I have ordered 3 coils and a set of gaskets.

 

Alfadude can you tell me why I have a t piece in the check sensor tube, (photo 3) and where the tube is likely to be connected to. It disappears under the battery

 

If you look in that Sticky thread it has a lot of good information on how to do the work you want done. Or also if you do a simple search on here there should be a number of other threads as well with pictures.

What you might wnat to do is get your own scanner and check for codes yourself. One that seems to be popular is the ELM327 OBDII bluetooth and then you could download the Torque Pro app onto your mobile phone. Then clear any codes that show up and then start the car again and maybe go for a short drive and see what comes back. That way you know what is there right now and not something from a long time ago so you don't start looking at the wrong things to address. Then search on here for the codes and go from there. I personally am not much of a mechanic myself, but have been on this forum for almost 10 years now and by reading a lot of posts through the years you get a pretty good idea what causes a lot of the problems that people ask about.

 

Thanks again for your help mate. funnily enough I have bought myself a code reader ( an Intey) just a cheapy though. I cleared the codes and these are the ones that keep coming back. Also I've noticed in the videos and pictures they remove an engine cover but I've not got one fitted. I think this could possibly affect creating a vacuum.

 

Not having a cover would not cause a code. If you had a vacuum leak chances are you would be getting P1071 and/or P0174. You have misfire codes.