I have a current problem that may have been exacerbated by a hinky fix for an old problem:

Bought my 2002 new but now only drive it 4 months a year (as the rest of the time I’m out of the US). Love my car, but it has body and paint damage,and tho the only big money I’ve had to put into it has been a new water pump, if current issue is $$$ I might have to consider other options than fixing.

Old problem: engine light, car went into limp mode. Mechanic said the limp mode sensor was malfunctioning and they’d have to pull the engine $$$ to replace! So I asked if there was anything I could do other and he said yep, just shift at below 3000rpms. So that’s what I did tho I hated the feel of lugging the engine. (Mechanic said it wouldn’t damage the engine).
Sometimes it could go above 3000 w/o going limp for long periods and it kinda seemed like me it was a loose wire that sometimes ‘connected’ and sometimes not. Seems like it would have been better to just cut the wire, but what do I know? Anyhow, that’s what I’ve been doing for over 2 years.

Current problem: I shifted from first to second at 2900rpms going up an incline and the car had zero power. I tried a couple things, nothing worked so I parked it til I could access this site.
Went back to car (now cooled) , starts fine and made it up the hill ok. Drove it 4 miles home, no power when shifting 1 to 2nd gear 2 times, both on slight hill. Strange noise like stutter or shudder or clicking until it finally accelerated. Remembered that the day before it felt sputters when doing the gear changes under 3000rpm. In all, probably only drove 10 miles since symptoms started so I’m hoping I didn’t damage fuel pump. Never replaced the fuel filter yet, so hoping that’s the problem tho I realize this car has lots of sensors that might have gone bad (costing lots s more than a fuel filter)! BTW the car starts up fine every time, runs smooth although it seems to be using more gas (tho I’m only doing city driving )!and there is a coolant leak of about 1 cup every 2 weeks, tho it’s not overheating.

I know a fuel filter is a relatively easy fix for you guys, but I just turned 75 and tho I replaced my coolant reservoir by myself last year, I’m just not up to this one!

Anyhow, I have a friend who owns a foreign car auto shop….and tho he hates working on my car (he thinks I should buy something newer) I think he would do the work tho he might suggest again to just buy another car!!!! I have free tow insurance so I’m thinking I’ll not drive the car to prevent any more damage.

what do you think the odds are that it’s just a fuel filter instead of something more expensive? Thanking you all in advance.

 

Use a smart phone with the Torque app to connect to the vehicle's PCM/ECM via the OBD port using a Bluetooth interface to read the fuel pressure. With the ignition in the ON position prior to engaging the starter, there should be around 300 kPa (3 bar) fuel pressure. If not, check the schrader valve on top of the engine to see if fuel pressure is present. If there is very little or no fuel pressure, the fuel pump has likely failed and must be replaced along with the fuel filter.

The Torque app can also allow you to read any stored DTCs to help diagnose what the issue(s) may be. Guessing on a Jaguar can become quite expensive very quickly.

 

Hi Colorado Belle,

Reading your post, it appears you never resolved the original check engine light.
I doubt the engine would need to be pulled to resolve your problems.
What you could ask your friend who owns the repair shop to do for you is to plug in a OBD11 code reader and give you a list of all the error codes your X-Type is listing.
Then publish the list on this thread to obtain some forum membership assistance with a diagnosis of your problems.

Without knowing the error codes, the list of possible culprits to your engine light and subsequent restricted performance (limp mode) is wide and varied.
Revealing the codes will significantly narrow down what sensors or maintenance components you can then get your friend to look at.

 

Colorado Bell, welcome back. I am sure you are glad to see me. The mechanic that says the "limp mode sensor" would need to be replaced is pulling your leg. There is no limp mode sensor. That would be called the engine computer. Oh, and you don't need to pull the engine to replace it. It is tucked away at the base of the windshield on the passenger side of the car for you. So, I wouldn't put any trust into that mechanic as he was either trying to scare you away (most likely). or doens't know what he is talking about.

LIke others have said, you can have a number of issues. Yes, a fuel filter is one of them and my recommendation is to take it to your mechanic friend and have him replace the fuel filter (tell him if he hates working on your Jag, then he must hate working on Fords and Volvos as your car is effectively a Ford Fusion front end and a Volvo S40 rear end, see what he says when you are smarter than him about the car - guys, don't hate on me for calling the kitty a Ford). i bet you will get his attention at that point. While he has the car, have him connect his computer and get the codes read. If you don't want to spend the $100 or so that he is going to charge, then simply go to a local auto parts store and have them read the codes for you. Write them down either way. We just need the P and the 4 numbers after (ie, P0171). Once we get those numbers, we can probably tell you to the part what is wrong with your car.

If this has gotten worse since when you put the car up last year, it is probably some old gas in the car. Try to get the tank as empty as you can and then add in a half or more tank of new gas. That may help you get the car running a little bit. This 10% ethanol based gas is hard on cars that sit like what yours does. If you can, find a long up hill run and have a little fun. Start at the bottom going as slow as you can and then get on the gas and let the car accelerate up the hill till you get just above the speed limit (or as fast as you are comfortable driving). This will help get the catalytic converter hot and help clear out any build up that is in there. Run up and down the hill say 3-4 times. You may find this will also help the kitty purr again.

 

“ I am sure you are glad to see me.”

Indeed! I am always glad to hear from you Thermo! You’ve kindly and patiently helped me through many trials and tribs of owning my little Jag!

A local friend just gave me the number of her trusted mobile mechanic, so I’m giving him a call in the morning to hook me up to his code reader and replace my fuel filter. Hoping that will take care of the problem.

Jag was sitting from late December to mid June, but started up right away and running fine for 3 weeks until yesterday.

I want d to play PICKLEBALL tonight and it’s only 2 miles so I chanced it: Got there but car died in the parking lot for a bit and then I hit every red light on the way home and it died at every one. Finally just revved it up but stay d in first for a slow drive home. This time I could smell gas inside the car.

I’ll post as soon as I have some codes and diagnosis from mobile mechanic. Watched a video of fuel filter change and it looks pretty easy (except for the gas spray).

 

Colorado Belle, what you are describing is telling me that you have 1 of 2 conditions. Either your fuel filter is plugged and it is causing a low pressure condition at the fuel injectors, resulting in them not spraying effectively, leading to a poor firing of the cyclinder(s). This would cause the car to run rough and give you that rich smell. The other issue is you may have a stuck fuel injector and that is causing a cylinder to run rich and lead to what you are seeing. With the codes, we will be able to tell the difference.

 

So I’m guessing at minimum this means replacing plugs and coils and probably fuel filter (just because) and air filter cause I haven’t done that before….and then hope I don’t have to replace a bunch more stuff. Advice?

 

Hi Colorado Belle,

Thermo may have some additional info or refinement to add, but to get some initial answers coming to you now, I will briefly jump in.

Looking at your error codes, P0301 is pointing towards a bad spark plug or ignition coil causing issues firing number 1 cylinder.
If the spark plugs are older (let's say more than 60,000 miles), then you should probably look to have a fresh set put in as typically you could only expect 100,000 miles out of a good set of plugs.
The P1316 error code is likely an issue with the ignition coil on cylinder 1, however a bad spark plug could possibly reflect an issue into the coil's operation that could then generate that code.
You probably do not need to replace all 6 ignition coils as the fault seems to be number one cylinder oriented, so if you are being mindful on your spending, probably budget on a set of plugs and possibly a coil if needed.

Misfires ultimately allow raw fuel through the engine that then enters the exhaust system where it appears as an anomaly to the HO2 sensors before and after the catalytic converter.
Too much unburnt fuel reaching the catalytic converters will eventually damage (poison) them, hence the P0420 and P1313 error messages warning you of undesirable gases reaching the bank 1 cat..
Solve the misfire on cylinder 1 and hopefully the P0420 and P1313 errors will dissipate without any further action adn hopefully the catalytic converter has not been damaged.

The HO2 sensors are items that do tend to fail with age, so if the misfire is cured and you still are getting HO2 related errors, then you might need to look at some new sensors.

Finally the P0332 error - KS sensor (Knock sensor). The knock sensor is listening for telltale internal engine noise generated by the incorrect spark timing of the cylinder detonation. It could be a bad sensor, bad connection or a rodent chewed wire causing the sensor to be reporting as bad. Check the wiring first and if there is no issue, probably best to get a new sensor as it is easier to fit that while the intake manifold is off during the spark plug change.

Hopefully Thermo will have some other gems to add to further refine your course of action.

 

Belle, like I put in the PM, could possibly have some oil in the cylinder based on the age of the car. This can cause a misfire. This will lead to the need to have the valve cover seal replaced to prevent this from happening again in the future.

Like H2O2 said, if you have the original spark plugs in there, replacing them may not be a bad idea. Granted, the codes are leaning more towards a coil than a plug. But, with the intake off already, the cost of the plug change will be minimal.

Lets get the misfire taken care of and I have a feeling everything else is going to fall into place.

 

Thank you h20! Your comments have soothed my worries and I feel ready to get this done! My car has 79,000 miles on it and I feel new sparks and a coil (although some rec’d doing them all I think I might do just one, but use the same coil as the original so they all match).

i’m first contacting a mobile mechanic to check to see if he’ll let me supply the parts and if so, I think I may as well do a complete tuneup.

I’ve read that in order to clear the codes that one needs a special Jag app….so I guess I’ll have to make sure he has one so I’ll be able to tell if the problems are fixed.(that’s a question)

I wouldn’t be at all surprised if a rodent or bunny didn’t eat my wiring….I had a whole family of bunnies living in there one Colorado winter. The last 3 years I’ve stored it in California and only seen a black widow mama (and her egg babies) in there.

Again, thank you for your help…..I’m so happy that I now feel able to address the issues!

 

Thank you Thermo!

You have given me hope that my sweet baby can stay with me awhile longer….we’ve been through so much together!!!!

I’m contacting 2 rec’d mechanics today: one mobile and one shop. If I only change the 1 coil, can you rec’d the part number of one that might match the originals (as I heard that might be important if I don’t change all of them) or I guess I can wait until mechanic pulls it out.

while I was waiting for you to respond, I dutifully looked up all the codes online and watched YouTube videos of how each of the code faults were corrected. I feel so empowered! Thank you for your teachings and explanations!

 

So, the plugs were black and needed changing. The coil didn’t have any visible damage but was replaced. Mechanic called and said the job was done (Friday) . Apparently he didn’t test drive it or check codes after because…the car has the same or worse issues as before. Drove it about 10 blocks and engine light started blinking again and there was no power when depressing the accelerator. I think it made some weird sounds like a loose part but it stopped before I could figure out where it came from.

im leaving the car here and he’ll look at codes tomorrow, but im m kind of at a loss as how much to do invest. I’m thinking about taking it for another spin and videoing, but I’m not sure I can post a video or if hearing the car would do any good re diagnosis.

he Didn’t replace H2O or Knock sensors…0probably my fault for not being clearer as to do it if he found no wire damage (leading to the codes)

open to advice guys!

 

Belle, thinking a little bit more on this, you may want to recommend to the mechanic that a common problem with the X-Types is on the passenger side fender (for you) is the ground connection for the coils. This can become corroded and cause the coils to not give a good spark. He can easily follow the wiring harness and he will see where it attaches to the body of the car. If he is under the hood, might as well fix all the possibilities. I am doubting that it is, but hearing that all the plugs were dark makes me wonder if you are getting poor spark on all cylinders and it just isn't bad enough to trigger any other misfire codes yet. A few minutes with a wire brush and maybe a little bit of sand paper and you can make that lug be silver in color again.

 

I’m trying to post a video so you can hear the noise it makes, but it is a minute …too long to post here by far. I’ll try to edit it down, but 20mb might be less than a second of video.