The Walker Products TPS module (part# 200-1060) is pretty reasonably priced (I think it was about $25USD + Shipping).
Either find on eBay or do a general search for normal automotive suppliers online.
You shouldn't have to buy the whole throttle body, which agreed is very expensive for our model.

Only takes 5 minutes to change the TPS in place.

 

Mark!!
After a big amount of disappointment i decided that i had nothing more to lose. So:
- i proceed with a hard reset
- i unplugged all the visible plugs and replugged them, after spraying them with contact spray
- i removed all visible sensors and cleaned them with contact spray
As far as it concerns TPS:
I thought that since TPS is sealed but in working condition (meaning its inside is functional), the only possible "malfunction" i could deal with, is to "help" it in case its outside peripheria is stucked and not turning the butterfly properly.
What i did is that i turned it upside down and sprayed a little with WD40, leaving it for a while.
Something more about fuel pump relay:
I was suspicious - i dont know why - that the fuel pump relay maybe was not behaving as it should. So i removed it and switched it with a same one sitting next to it, with exactly the same specifications and part number. If it was faulty, it would cause me problem somewhere else.
Finally:
I put everything back, plugged the battery and switched on the key in the waiting position, standby for about 10 minutes.
The first thing i saw is the relays getting real warm, meaning a lot of load was passing through them
Also a sound of something working in the background, a very quiet electronic sound, a sound i havent heared a long time ago
After 10 minutes waiting, i switched on the engine and revelation!!
As you said, the idle is higher than normaly but the sound and response is back............... YES!!!!
A "gearbox fault" message appeared but is part of the relearning process. I drove her and even though the shifting point of the gears is "rude", her engine is working soooo good!!! no stalls, no stucks, no dead points, nothing...

Soon more news!!!

 

Good morning Mark

I admit i got excited for nothing, as i see...
Nothing good happened, my lady keeps behaving like having "TPS illness", so what i did is to order via Walker - as you pointed - the sensor. Its gonna take a while as they said, maybe 20 days, and 67€ flew away, 2/3 of them postage and customs...
I hope this will end this story, today it almost hit me a truck, as i was entering in a round about, HE my lady wouldn't move at all
....
Thats all for now, no more posting updates for a few days, there is nothing else i can do, just hopping that my car will get me to work until the sensor gets here

PS. The fuse diagram you posted has nothing in common with my fuse box, not at all. I tried to locate the throttle motor/fuel pump relay and i had to guess

Thank you very much for your help and for listening, its like psychotherapy!!

 

If the TPS starts to get high return friction, you can get ECM confusion and gearbox bad shift points and eventual gearbox error light and limp home mode or no restart after shut off.
I had this with a faulty binding TPS myself.

The sound you are hearing might be the fuel pump. It is powered all the time ignition is on, unlike the 2,5 and 3.0 engines that have a fuel pump controller governed by a fuel rail pressure sensor.
Good to hear the responsiveness is back.

If you are buying anything out of the USA in the near future you might find it can't ship via USPS. Seems to be a internal lock-down of their postal service to some international destinations.
USPS seems to be having overload and staffing issues, so appear to have suspended some international logistics services.

 

Good evenging Mark
I found a used TPS, replaced it but no - may a little - change occured. No TPS problem i think, it will be what a cuincidence both sensors to be faulty.

But I have a new finding and maybe this leads to a new path:
possible bad alternator-bad cables, something is wrong there.
This evening i noticed that by switching on all electro applications in the car, it almost died... the ilde turned to almost 400-500rpm. I also plugged the battery to the charger (a new battery) and it took an hour to stop charging, that means it was almost drained.
Now i see why on the day my lady works fine, there are no loads to bother her.
There arent many things i can do, tomorrow i will check visually every cable junction i can find from the alternator to the battery, spray em with contact spray and pray to The Mighty God.

Have a good night from here...

 

Hi Dimos,
Battery cables and poor connections are a common discussion point on the X forum.
Make sure the battery posts are nice and clean and check for warm terminals when electrics are under heavy load or moderate voltage drops at cable connection points.
A lot of members end up changing identified battery cables due to degradation.