2003 X-Type Driving Lights, no work?
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2003 X-Type Driving Lights, no work?
I have a 2003 X-Type. The front head lights (The lens to the outer most edge, both right & left head lights) are not working. No light at all. Seems to be a power issue, fues, relay? The brights work, the lens located closest the center of the car, but no sign of life from the lights located in the out side lens, both sides. Can some one tell me what fuse, relay, bulb or ? I should be looking for? The fog lights work fine. Thanks.
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Shula, first, I want you to access the fuse box and locate relay #9 (R9). Remove this relay. Now, find relay #15 (R15-high beam relay), remove that and stick it in the R9 location and try to turn on the headlights. Do they light up? If yes, replace the relay left in your hand. If not, remove the relay currently in the R9 location and place back in the R15 spot.
If you look on the relay, the pins are going to be numbers 1 thru 5. I want you to match up the pins with the slots in the R9 location. I want you to look for Pins 3 and 5. Using a small piece of wire, I want you to short between these two points. Do the lights come on now? If no, using a multimeter, see if you have power at pin #3 (ie, 12 VDC) while the jumper wire is still installed. If you get anything less than 11.0 VDC, you have a bad fuse (F1), if you do have power, then check fuses F16 and F17. If those are good, then you are most likely looking at bad connectors on the headlight bulbs.
If you have no power but fuse F1 is good, then that confirms a bad power wire between fuse F1 and the relay. Fortunately, this is all inside of the fuse box, so, replacing the wire will be fairly easy. Getting to the fuse box on the other hand can be challenging.
if you need more info, let me know. Also, don't forget that you will need the car in the RUN position to make sure the headlights work. The motor doesn't need to be running. Just the ignition switch in the RUN position.
If you look on the relay, the pins are going to be numbers 1 thru 5. I want you to match up the pins with the slots in the R9 location. I want you to look for Pins 3 and 5. Using a small piece of wire, I want you to short between these two points. Do the lights come on now? If no, using a multimeter, see if you have power at pin #3 (ie, 12 VDC) while the jumper wire is still installed. If you get anything less than 11.0 VDC, you have a bad fuse (F1), if you do have power, then check fuses F16 and F17. If those are good, then you are most likely looking at bad connectors on the headlight bulbs.
If you have no power but fuse F1 is good, then that confirms a bad power wire between fuse F1 and the relay. Fortunately, this is all inside of the fuse box, so, replacing the wire will be fairly easy. Getting to the fuse box on the other hand can be challenging.
if you need more info, let me know. Also, don't forget that you will need the car in the RUN position to make sure the headlights work. The motor doesn't need to be running. Just the ignition switch in the RUN position.
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Shula, just to confirm your problem, you can remove the relay again, install the jumper and then measure the voltage across the bulb itself. If you are getting 12 VDC at the bulb, then you are looking at 2 bad bulbs. If you are getting less than 11.0 VDC, you have a wiring issue. Once you leave the relay (R9), you only have wiring and the 2 fuses (F16/F17). Since it is affecting both headlights the same, this makes the troubleshooting easier as the only place 1 problem can affect both is the short piece of wiring between the relay and the fuses. Now, while unlikely, it could be simply that you had both low beam bulbs fail at the same time. Hence why I am recommending doing the voltage check at the headlights themselves. Granted, new bulbs are fairly cheap and would provide the same sort of check.
#9
This is the best Help I have found
Thermo~ Thank you sooooo much for taking the time to explain this problem. We have been struggling with this for a year and Finally can put this problem on the Checked off the Bucket list So excited to know my son has lights once again on his car
Again Thank You
Jag momma
Again Thank You
Jag momma
#10
jaguar x type low beams not working
I am having same problem. Did you ever figure out what was wrong?
#11
#12
Same problem but No fix
Hi Guys. I have a 2003 Jaguar S-type. V-6. All components except brakes are stock. I followed this thread and also similar ones and am stuck. Both my low beams (I am assuming dip lights?) stopped working at the same time. My high beams work fine. My parking lights work fine. I checked all the fuses in under the hood and a couple in the interior pannel. All seem fine. I cannot find in the manual or online a single fuse that controls both lights. It seems they split the curcuits so that one is right and one is left. The manual shows Engine compartment R-10 HID lamp right side which I assume is the low beam / high beam relay and R-13 as the left side. Only problem is my R-10 does not have a relay in it. Could R 13 be controlling both? Could I be missing something? I did check the power at the lights and there is none for the low beam. I am assuming that is a relay issue just not sure which one as both lights don't work and no R-10 is in place.
Any help would be appreciated
Any help would be appreciated
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Majog, let me clarify a few things and we can get you sorted out. The first thing we need to get an answer to is whether you have HID headlights or standard (halogen) headlights. If you are not sure, open the driver's door and look by the hinge. Do you have a sticker there that is silver/white and says something to the effect of "This vehicle is equipped with High Intensity Discharge (HID) headlights.....". If you still are not sure, then you will need to look inside the headlight housing and see whether you see a finned module attached to the back of the low beam headlight (british call this beam the "dip" beam) or if you see the back of a headlight bulb with the associated electrical plug. If you see the finned module, then you have HID. If not, you have halogen bulbs. If you have ever replaced the headlights, you either put in a D2S bulb or a H1 bulb. D2S bulb is a HID bulb, the H1 is a halogen bulb.
This is where you have something goofey going on and I am not quite sure what to make of it at this point in time. This is where I would need to dig into the diagrams a little deeper and see what is going on. From the sounds of things, you have standard halogen bulbs (have a fairly yellow look to them when compared to an HID bulb which is going to be fairly snow white in color). If this is the case, attempt to turn on the headlights. Did the headlight indicator come on? If no, then odds are your headlight switch is toast and you will need to replace that. If the headlight indicator did come on, then odds are you have a problem with your GEM module. SHould you want to confirm this, you wil need to open up the steering column and get to the plug for the headlight switch. On the plug, you are looking for a blue wire (will be a solid blue, do not mix it up with other blue wires that have a colored stripe). You are going to measure DC voltage with your red lead on the blue wire and the black lead on any piece of metal that is the body of the car. As you cycle the headlight switch between OFF and AUTO, you should see 4 unique voltages (1 voltage for OFF, a new voltage for PARK, yet a different voltage for DIP beam, and a different voltage for AUTO). You should see the voltage start low in OFF and with each position, rise in value. If you see the voltage drop to zero, then you have a failed switch.
If you have HID headlights, then first off, you are missing relay R10. Relay R10 powers on the left dip beam only. HID bulbs have a very large starting surge (about 20 amps). Hence why the one headlight has its own relay. R13 powers the right side DIP beam. If you have halogen bulbs, relay R13 probably has been repurposed for something else and without digging deep into the drawings, I am not sure what that is at the moment. But, if you do have HID headlights and you get relay R10 in, and are still having issues, then let me know and we can give you steps specific to your HID setup on how to fix it. There are a few more fuses associated with HIDs than there are for the halogen headlights.
This is where you have something goofey going on and I am not quite sure what to make of it at this point in time. This is where I would need to dig into the diagrams a little deeper and see what is going on. From the sounds of things, you have standard halogen bulbs (have a fairly yellow look to them when compared to an HID bulb which is going to be fairly snow white in color). If this is the case, attempt to turn on the headlights. Did the headlight indicator come on? If no, then odds are your headlight switch is toast and you will need to replace that. If the headlight indicator did come on, then odds are you have a problem with your GEM module. SHould you want to confirm this, you wil need to open up the steering column and get to the plug for the headlight switch. On the plug, you are looking for a blue wire (will be a solid blue, do not mix it up with other blue wires that have a colored stripe). You are going to measure DC voltage with your red lead on the blue wire and the black lead on any piece of metal that is the body of the car. As you cycle the headlight switch between OFF and AUTO, you should see 4 unique voltages (1 voltage for OFF, a new voltage for PARK, yet a different voltage for DIP beam, and a different voltage for AUTO). You should see the voltage start low in OFF and with each position, rise in value. If you see the voltage drop to zero, then you have a failed switch.
If you have HID headlights, then first off, you are missing relay R10. Relay R10 powers on the left dip beam only. HID bulbs have a very large starting surge (about 20 amps). Hence why the one headlight has its own relay. R13 powers the right side DIP beam. If you have halogen bulbs, relay R13 probably has been repurposed for something else and without digging deep into the drawings, I am not sure what that is at the moment. But, if you do have HID headlights and you get relay R10 in, and are still having issues, then let me know and we can give you steps specific to your HID setup on how to fix it. There are a few more fuses associated with HIDs than there are for the halogen headlights.
#15
Chris: First off thanks for the assistance. I do have just regular halogen headlights. I reposted my initial post on the S-type forum and got some interesting replies include a full set of wiring diagrams. From what I can tell there are several common (R & L side wiringing points) 2 are fuses in the interior pannel, 3 and 2 relays in the trunk. I will check both of those. I also need to pull the bulbs to make sure they are indeed good. Someone posted they may not have gone out at the same time but at 2 different times and I just did not notice it as I don't drive enough at night with it (which happens to be true).
My initial diagnosis checked for power at the head lights but even with playing with all the switch positions did not get any that I could tell. I would think I would see 12v at the lights. Am trying to follow the wiring diagrams backwards but they are not the easiest to read and spread across multiple pages. Trying to soft of do my own so that I can check from point to point but with the GEM it splits off different directions several of which can keep the lights from getting a negative or ground pole. I checked for voltage with the meter in both terminals so want to check again if I get voltage by going to a frame ground. I will check the switch via the column after I hit the easy stuff I learned today. Will post any findings. Thanks so much for the assistance.
j
My initial diagnosis checked for power at the head lights but even with playing with all the switch positions did not get any that I could tell. I would think I would see 12v at the lights. Am trying to follow the wiring diagrams backwards but they are not the easiest to read and spread across multiple pages. Trying to soft of do my own so that I can check from point to point but with the GEM it splits off different directions several of which can keep the lights from getting a negative or ground pole. I checked for voltage with the meter in both terminals so want to check again if I get voltage by going to a frame ground. I will check the switch via the column after I hit the easy stuff I learned today. Will post any findings. Thanks so much for the assistance.
j
#16
Occam’s Razor interpreted: the simplest explanation is often the true explanation. In other words, looking for complicated, rare, difficult to correct faults is a wild goose chase UNLESS you have first checked the most obvious explanation: the bulbs and the bulb connections.
But I have some sympathy for avoiding the bulbs here. Replacing the bulbs on the X-Type is a miserable job guaranteed to leave your hands with lacerations. I have done it a number of times (we have had 3 X-Types) . The left side bulb on my wife’s X-Type was burned out. But since the car was going in for normal service shortly, I decided to let the dealer do it…in fact I had them replace BOTH sides to save my fingers.
But I have some sympathy for avoiding the bulbs here. Replacing the bulbs on the X-Type is a miserable job guaranteed to leave your hands with lacerations. I have done it a number of times (we have had 3 X-Types) . The left side bulb on my wife’s X-Type was burned out. But since the car was going in for normal service shortly, I decided to let the dealer do it…in fact I had them replace BOTH sides to save my fingers.
#17
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Majog, there is no direct wire between the headlight switch and the headlights themselves. The switch is wired to the instrument cluster and the instrument cluster sends a message to the GEM module to activate an internal relay to turn on the headlights. This is why you are having a dickens of a time finding common wiring. That is why I am asking about the headlight symbol on the instrument cluster. You can half split the headlight system by that one light. If it is on, then the problem is most likely in the GEM or the headlight wiring. If you don't get the indication, then we are looking at a bad instrument cluster or a headlight switch.
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Majog (01-11-2023)
#18
Majog, there is no direct wire between the headlight switch and the headlights themselves. The switch is wired to the instrument cluster and the instrument cluster sends a message to the GEM module to activate an internal relay to turn on the headlights. This is why you are having a dickens of a time finding common wiring. That is why I am asking about the headlight symbol on the instrument cluster. You can half split the headlight system by that one light. If it is on, then the problem is most likely in the GEM or the headlight wiring. If you don't get the indication, then we are looking at a bad instrument cluster or a headlight switch.
#19