2003 X-Type Driving Lights, no work?
#22
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
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Majog, looking at what you have, you have a few options. The more expensive, but probably the easier is to find a new wiring harness for the headlights and install that. Not sure what a harness is going to go for, but for ease, that is the ticket.
Option 2 is to get a few colors of 16 gauge wire and in short, you are going to go back to where the damage starts and install a butt splice there and then cut out the damaged portions of wiring and replace it with this wiring (adding a butt splice on the other end). If you go this route, get your hands on some stuff called "Raychem WCSF-115". This is shrink tubing on steroids. You are going to want to cut 2" long sections and center them over the butt splices and shrink it down. You are going to want to get this as hot as possible and what you are looking for is a small orange "donut" form around the wire where it exits the raychem. This "donut tells you that it has heated up the glue and it has made the wire insulation back to 1 piece. You will end up doing this with each and every wire. I would recommend going back about 3 inches from where the rodent last chewed the insulation to make sure you get good wire. Then it is getting enough wire to attach the two ends together.
Option 3 is if the rodents only ate the insulation and the copper wire is still good, then you can pull the pins out of the nearest connector and slide lengths of the Raychem back over the bare copper wire and then shrink that down. Again, you are going to want about an inch of the raychem to overlap the insulation and heat it up until you see that donut form.
If you are wondering if the raychem will survive underhood conditions, IT WILL!!!!! I use it at work to be inside a nuclear reactor containment to survive a nuclear reactor meltdown. That is far worse than anything you can think about being under the hood. Here's a few versions of it that I would recommend getting if you are looking at going this route. It will make your wiring better than it was from the factory and this stuff the rodents hate to eat.
3:1&4:1 Heat Shrink Tube Waterproof Shrinking Tubing Wrap Sleeve Adhesive Lined | eBay
RAYCHEM 1/4” Black Heat Shrink Tubing 25 ft CPGI-RNF-100-1/4-BK-25 22KZ46 | eBay
Heat Shrink Tubing - 4:1 & 3:1 Ratio - Adhesive Lined - Marine Grade Heat Shrink | eBay
Option 2 is to get a few colors of 16 gauge wire and in short, you are going to go back to where the damage starts and install a butt splice there and then cut out the damaged portions of wiring and replace it with this wiring (adding a butt splice on the other end). If you go this route, get your hands on some stuff called "Raychem WCSF-115". This is shrink tubing on steroids. You are going to want to cut 2" long sections and center them over the butt splices and shrink it down. You are going to want to get this as hot as possible and what you are looking for is a small orange "donut" form around the wire where it exits the raychem. This "donut tells you that it has heated up the glue and it has made the wire insulation back to 1 piece. You will end up doing this with each and every wire. I would recommend going back about 3 inches from where the rodent last chewed the insulation to make sure you get good wire. Then it is getting enough wire to attach the two ends together.
Option 3 is if the rodents only ate the insulation and the copper wire is still good, then you can pull the pins out of the nearest connector and slide lengths of the Raychem back over the bare copper wire and then shrink that down. Again, you are going to want about an inch of the raychem to overlap the insulation and heat it up until you see that donut form.
If you are wondering if the raychem will survive underhood conditions, IT WILL!!!!! I use it at work to be inside a nuclear reactor containment to survive a nuclear reactor meltdown. That is far worse than anything you can think about being under the hood. Here's a few versions of it that I would recommend getting if you are looking at going this route. It will make your wiring better than it was from the factory and this stuff the rodents hate to eat.
3:1&4:1 Heat Shrink Tube Waterproof Shrinking Tubing Wrap Sleeve Adhesive Lined | eBay
RAYCHEM 1/4” Black Heat Shrink Tubing 25 ft CPGI-RNF-100-1/4-BK-25 22KZ46 | eBay
Heat Shrink Tubing - 4:1 & 3:1 Ratio - Adhesive Lined - Marine Grade Heat Shrink | eBay
#23
#24
Guys: I just wanted to say thank you again for all the help. Got in my LED bulbs today and they went in without a hitch. I spliced the wiring harness and heat shrink wrapped them then wrapped the whole thing in electric tape just to make sure. Low and behold I have lights again I would have never though both bulbs would go out but be it the wiring harness issue or just that they went out different occasions, I will not know. But the advice that the easiest answer is usually the correct one is still damn good advice. Thanks so much for the wiring diagrams, ideas, and just spending your time helping a stranger!
J
J
#25
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