2004 X-Type 3.0 Sport DSC Fault/Battery
#1
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Hi,
I just went through a period of check engine light being on. I checked & got he following codes P0171, P0174, P0300, P0302, P0304, P0306, and a P1111. The code reader- a cheap one would not clear the fault & simply said Clearing Failed or something like that. I sent it back to Amazon.
I also not now the CEL is off, I am getting a DSC Fault Message when I turn the car on. The car has roughly 64,000 miles and an original battery.
I set up an appointment to see the dealer yesterday & last night the CEL extinguished. But I noticed the DSC Fault. I wonder about the battery. It seems to be one that is unique. Is my only source a Jaguar dealer? It's been a while since the car has had any service other than a Mobil 1 oil change.
The car runs fine and I understand the first major service is due at 100,000 miles. Any thoughts/suggestions? Thanks in advance.
I just went through a period of check engine light being on. I checked & got he following codes P0171, P0174, P0300, P0302, P0304, P0306, and a P1111. The code reader- a cheap one would not clear the fault & simply said Clearing Failed or something like that. I sent it back to Amazon.
I also not now the CEL is off, I am getting a DSC Fault Message when I turn the car on. The car has roughly 64,000 miles and an original battery.
I set up an appointment to see the dealer yesterday & last night the CEL extinguished. But I noticed the DSC Fault. I wonder about the battery. It seems to be one that is unique. Is my only source a Jaguar dealer? It's been a while since the car has had any service other than a Mobil 1 oil change.
The car runs fine and I understand the first major service is due at 100,000 miles. Any thoughts/suggestions? Thanks in advance.
#2
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I checked the voltage on the cold battery: 12.38 VDC. When I started it with the headlights on, voltage jumped up to 15.16 VDC. These don't appear abnormal. I found an Interstate battery place which has 2 batteries for the X-Type a $166 & a $199. Use a BATX code and receive a 25% discount. The $199 has more cranking amp capacity.
I need to do a load test on the battery. Almost 10 years is almost too old for a battery in my opinion. But I have one that lasted over 10 years on a Volvo. I had to replace it even through the engine would turn over- but their was not enough voltage to make the electronics function properly.
I wondering if I should just go to the dealer and suck it in or simply allow Advance Auto to chance the battery out for me. Anyone? Thanks
I need to do a load test on the battery. Almost 10 years is almost too old for a battery in my opinion. But I have one that lasted over 10 years on a Volvo. I had to replace it even through the engine would turn over- but their was not enough voltage to make the electronics function properly.
I wondering if I should just go to the dealer and suck it in or simply allow Advance Auto to chance the battery out for me. Anyone? Thanks
#3
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Backhertz, it is very possible that the battery is causing the problems you are seeing as the ECM (computer for the motor) is very sensitive to voltage oscillations and will give you random codes when things get too bad. If you have 10 years on the battery, probably due and lets see what you have after the battery change.
As for "having to" go to the dealership, by no means must you. Tons of us have bought batteries at places from the dealership to WalMart. Keep in mind that all batteries in the US are made from 1 of 2 companies and each company makes the same battery and just puts a different sticker on the outside (there are some exceptions, but I will not dive into that at the moment). What you are really paying for between the two batteries is the warrantee that comes should the battery fail early.
Let Advance Auto change the battery and go from there. Unless your local dealership is going to give you a better deal, save yourself the few bucks and spend it on something else for the car.
As for "having to" go to the dealership, by no means must you. Tons of us have bought batteries at places from the dealership to WalMart. Keep in mind that all batteries in the US are made from 1 of 2 companies and each company makes the same battery and just puts a different sticker on the outside (there are some exceptions, but I will not dive into that at the moment). What you are really paying for between the two batteries is the warrantee that comes should the battery fail early.
Let Advance Auto change the battery and go from there. Unless your local dealership is going to give you a better deal, save yourself the few bucks and spend it on something else for the car.
#4
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Too car to Advance Auto who had a battery. Battery tested only 250 CCA on a 700 CCA rated battery. Results: Replace Battery.
New battery tested 790 CCA. Guess what? No more DSC fault message.
Mission accomplished! Only cost $125 with free install and using BATX coupon code when I ordered it over the Internet using my cell phone.
T
New battery tested 790 CCA. Guess what? No more DSC fault message.
Mission accomplished! Only cost $125 with free install and using BATX coupon code when I ordered it over the Internet using my cell phone.
T
#6
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Yes, batteries can be strange sometimes. As Thermo said, our cars can act weird when the battery output is low. When mine went there was no warning whatsoever. Car was starting/driving great and then one morning it wouldn't turn over. Glad you got it sorted.
You might want to do a search on the P0171 and P0174 codes. Those are vacuum leaks and might be intermittent right now and that is why the CEL is now off, but might come back soon. Those are very common problems on our cars and easy to remedy. Do a search on here on them as there is probably more discussion about them than any other problem. Getting those investigated now might save you some headaches down the road.
You might want to do a search on the P0171 and P0174 codes. Those are vacuum leaks and might be intermittent right now and that is why the CEL is now off, but might come back soon. Those are very common problems on our cars and easy to remedy. Do a search on here on them as there is probably more discussion about them than any other problem. Getting those investigated now might save you some headaches down the road.
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Backhertz, for the P0171 and P0174 codes, start with cleaning the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor with some MAF sensor cleaner and then follow it up with checking the PCV hose for a crack on the underside (if you need any additional information about either of these, let me know). After that, check the ribbed hose between the air cleaner and the throttle body for a leak there. From there, take a look at the brake booster hose and the IMT valves (passenger side of the car, the IMT valves are the 2 big black caps on the side of the intake).
As for the P1796 code, that is saying that an error was received by the Tranny computer with the CAN network bus. It may be just a fluke, so, reset the computer and see if it comes back. If it does, then I would recommend a shop to take a look at the computer as this is not something that you can really diagnose with just a hand held reader only. IT requires something that you can see real time data like a dealership computer. The cleaning should take care of the other two codes.
As for the P1796 code, that is saying that an error was received by the Tranny computer with the CAN network bus. It may be just a fluke, so, reset the computer and see if it comes back. If it does, then I would recommend a shop to take a look at the computer as this is not something that you can really diagnose with just a hand held reader only. IT requires something that you can see real time data like a dealership computer. The cleaning should take care of the other two codes.
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Thang Nguyen
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