2004 X type, AC not cold
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Probably a bad compressor..(valves bad)
Did this all of a sudden happen on it's own?..
Was somebody screwing around with it that didn't know what they were doing?..
What is the outside temp?
Did you drive it like this or is this the condition sitting in the driveway?
Get the picture....More information
here is Pressure-Temp chart for R134a
Normal high side pressures should be about 155 psi to 200 psi depending on if your moving or standing still at 2000 rpm.
and normal low side pressure should be around 30 psi to 40 psi depending on how hot it is inside the car at 2000 RPM..Fan on high speed, recirculate OFF.
Did this all of a sudden happen on it's own?..
Was somebody screwing around with it that didn't know what they were doing?..
What is the outside temp?
Did you drive it like this or is this the condition sitting in the driveway?
Get the picture....More information
here is Pressure-Temp chart for R134a
Normal high side pressures should be about 155 psi to 200 psi depending on if your moving or standing still at 2000 rpm.
and normal low side pressure should be around 30 psi to 40 psi depending on how hot it is inside the car at 2000 RPM..Fan on high speed, recirculate OFF.
![](https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/attachments/x-type-x400-14/41872-2004-x-type-ac-not-cold-3990349207_d942659e8c_o.jpg?dateline=1367769988)
Last edited by DPK; 05-05-2013 at 03:19 PM.
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AlfaVeloce (05-08-2013)
#5
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75psi on the low side is too high, and high side a little low. This condition usually indicates an expansion valve stuck open. Not sure if the car has an expansion valve or fixed orfice.
Edit: Did some checking and yes it uses an expansion device. Part is cheap. However an expansion device sticking may indicate a contaminated system. I would recommend a system flush.
Edit: Did some checking and yes it uses an expansion device. Part is cheap. However an expansion device sticking may indicate a contaminated system. I would recommend a system flush.
Last edited by DKurtti; 05-05-2013 at 11:50 AM. Reason: Found additional info
#6
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75psi on the low side is too high, and high side a little low. This condition usually indicates an expansion valve stuck open. Not sure if the car has an expansion valve or fixed orfice.
Edit: Did some checking and yes it uses an expansion device. Part is cheap. However an expansion device sticking may indicate a contaminated system. I would recommend a system flush.
Edit: Did some checking and yes it uses an expansion device. Part is cheap. However an expansion device sticking may indicate a contaminated system. I would recommend a system flush.
#7
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Yer right Tony..Bad Compressor usually means the valves went out..the compressor can't suck or build pressures..Higher than normal Suction Pressure and lower than normal Discharge Pressure = BAD VALVES.
Also, a Restricted Fixed Orifice or even if it was an expansion valve (TEV) doesn't matter which..the Suction pressure would be VERY low...and discharge pressure would be low also or about normal.
Also, a Restricted Fixed Orifice or even if it was an expansion valve (TEV) doesn't matter which..the Suction pressure would be VERY low...and discharge pressure would be low also or about normal.
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I'm going with the concensus here that your compressor is worn out or damaged.
When you replace it you'll need to replace the receiver drier up under the right front fender as well. I would not take one apart without at least cleaning if not replacing the orifice tube, too. I posted pictures in this forum describing the receiver springlock connector and the location of the orifice tube. Not that easy to reach but not the end of the world either.
The label on the fender of ours says refrigerant load is supposed to be 1 lb, 12.8 oz. R-134a. And R-134a cans I have are 12 oz each. So you'll need about 2 and 1/2 cans with the loss you'll see switching cans on the manifold.. Good luck with the remaining 1/2 can.
When you replace it you'll need to replace the receiver drier up under the right front fender as well. I would not take one apart without at least cleaning if not replacing the orifice tube, too. I posted pictures in this forum describing the receiver springlock connector and the location of the orifice tube. Not that easy to reach but not the end of the world either.
The label on the fender of ours says refrigerant load is supposed to be 1 lb, 12.8 oz. R-134a. And R-134a cans I have are 12 oz each. So you'll need about 2 and 1/2 cans with the loss you'll see switching cans on the manifold.. Good luck with the remaining 1/2 can.
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DPK (05-09-2013)
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Hi Astro, we didn't go there with him on that because we need to get his pressure readings normal. With a low side reading of 75 psi the coldest air he could expect at the registers is 72 degrees F/ 23 degrees C.
Last edited by AlfaVeloce; 05-09-2013 at 09:02 PM. Reason: missed an "n't" ... made a lot of diff...
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DPK (05-09-2013)
#17
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Long story short, she put in a new compressor and it ran fine for a week then failed. $600 bucks gone. Mechanic said he thought it may be the shrader valve, said he had some issues with it, so, we had it back, worked fine for a bit, then stopped again. Back in, again, same.
I'm going to talk to him again about this, but, is it possible that the expansion device is bad or evap/drier issues?
I'm going to talk to him again about this, but, is it possible that the expansion device is bad or evap/drier issues?
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134a, ac, auto, automotive, chart, charts, ford, high, low, pressure, r134a, r30a, refrigerant, temp, temperature
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