HI, hope everyone is doing well! I'm having some trouble with my X-type. It's a 2004 3.0 with about 60,000 mile on it. I just finished fixing the common headlight issue and a couple days later it started running rough and the engine warning light came on.

I brought it to the ford dealership where we purchased and they tested for the engine codes and gave me several, although they said there equipment couldn't tell them what they meant and I'll have to take it to Jaguar, which I'm planning to do either Monday or Tuesday but I wanted to see if anyone had any Ideas. I couldn't believe how many codes they gave me.

Here they are: P0171, P0174, P0480, P1146, P1260, P1582, P1629, AND P1111!

I wondered how it even ran at all with this many error codes!

If anyone could offer some insight into what these codes mean I would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks all,

Wes

 

X-tyre, first off, the dealership did know what the codes mean as your car is essentially a Ford product and Ford used the same codes as they did on all of their Ford vehicles.

As for the codes, this is what they mean:

P0171 - Bank 1 combustion too lean
P0174 - Bank 2 combustion too lean
P0480 - Radiator cooling fan module drive circuit malfunction
P1146 - Generator “CHARGE” circuit low voltage / request high
P1260 - Security input malfunction
P1582 - “Flight recorder” data is stored (failure of the engine to start, stumbling when running, security input failed, etc)
P1629 - Generator “FIELD” circuit failure
P1111 - All systems check SAT.

As for what you have going on, I would first have the output of your alternator checked to make sure that you are not having an issue that is showing itself through the alternator. This is a simple check. If you have a multimeter, connect the multimeter with the red lead to the red post (+) of the battery, black lead to the bare post (-) and the multimeter set to VDC (20V scale). With the car off (verify all things electrical are turned off like dash fan, radio, headlights, etc), it should read 12.6 VDC. If not, then your battery is not at full charge and should be placed their first.

Now, start the car (with everything still turned off) with the multimeter still connected and the multimeter positioned such that you can see it as you start the car. As the car is cranking, the multimeter should drop to somewhere around 11.0-12.0 VDC (more on this later). After the engine starts, you should see the multimeter go up to about 14.4 VDC, hover there for 10-15 seconds or so (amount of time is not important) and then slowly ramp down to 13.7 VDC. If once things stabilize out, you see the multimeter reading say 13.0 VDC or less, then we have an issue with the charging system. If it is up at 13.7 VDC, then things appear to be good on the charging system end.

If the voltage was good, I want you to turn on both seat warmers, headlights, rear defroster, and the dash fan on high. This will put a decent load on your electrical system. The multimeter should still be reading about 13.7 VDC. If it has fallen by more than 0.5 VDC than what it was initially, odds are, you have a bad battery cable. If you can do the work yourself, it will cost you about $40 to get some basic battery cables and replace them. Even taking it to a shop, they should be able to get it done in under and hour and you are out the door for $150 or so.

Back to the battery during starting. If you watched the multimeter and you saw it drop below 11.0 VDC as the motor was cranking, this is a sign of a weak battery and you need a new battery. Before you just take my word for it, any local auto parts store can do a load test of the battery and they will confirm the weak battery.

Our cars are very sensitive to voltage system voltage. The voltage dropping too low even temporarily can cause the computers inside your car to send erroneous codes, making you think your car is falling apart. Looking at the codes that you got, it would appear that this is the case. Otherwise, you are most likely looking at an ECU that is going out.

 

Chris, as usual, is pointing you at the most likely problem.
A bunch of spurious looking codes (as you say too many for the engine too cope with) is usually a computer glitch due to a dying battery.
Do yourself a favour and get an OBD reader - you need one with Jaguars.
I now use a dirt cheap ELM > bluetooth interface and the free Torque app running on my daughter's cast-off Android phone. Does most things expensive readers will do.

 

Thanks, Thermo and Steve. I'll get going on that. Maybe I did something when I took out the battery to get more space to work on the driver's side headlight.

Wes

 

Could just it was time for the battery to give up. I know when mine went there was no prior warning. Running great and one morning nothing. Some could be stored codes from a prior episode that cleared themselves after some drive cycles. The P0171 and P0174 are associated with vacuum leaks, I bet that is what is causing the roughness of the engine. Usually simple to fix. Do a search on here and you'll find a ton of information about them, I'm sure you'll be back up and running shortly.

 

Hey Guys,

I checked the battery and it's fine, and I replaced the battery booster cable. The car is idling and running beautifully. I think I'm just going to bring it to Jaguar dealership on Thursday.

Thank you!

 

Hey Wes, please keep us all updated as to what you find

 

I know it's been awhile since I started this thread, but I wanted to say what it ended up being. Who knows it may help someone. There was a hole in the hose going into the air box. It was on side near the bottom. I sealed it and I'm trying to find one at a better price than the dealership.

Thanks to everyone again!

Wes

 

OK, thanks