I have a 2005 Jaguar X type 3.0. Driving home it started missing. Had some codes pulled and it said plugs and coils. Replaced them, car ran fine for 10 minutes started missing again. Checked coils again, one looked as if it melted. Replaced it, now car runs good until I reach 30 mph and it starts spitting and sputtering and the check engine light flashes. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

 

Welcome to the forums DJRhoades,

When you want comment or advice on codes, please post the actual codes and not just descriptions. Only the Jaguar DTC lookup tables give accurate decodes with possible causes. Generic online lookups can be very misleading with Jaguars.

When you get a minute, please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some information about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see. In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.

Graham

 

DJRhoades, first off, welcome to the Forums. Lots of good information here. So, you are in good hands.

Like GGG said, giving us the actual codes will be most beneficial. Having a flashing check engine light is concerning as that is the car's way of telling you that things are bad enough that you are possibly causing damage to the catalytic converters (or some other part of the engine).

I would have to assume you are going to get 1 of 2 different sets of codes. The more likely are the P0171 and/or P0174. These are both saying that you have a vacuum leak. We have what are referred to as the "big 3". The "big 3" relate to the the PCV hose that runs next to the throttle body, then you have the brake booster hose that runs from the top of the intake to the brake booster, and finally you have the IMT valve o-rings (if you open the hood/bonnet and look to the left side of the intake, you should see 2 black caps there, these are the IMT valves, they each have an o-ring that provides a seal). All of these parts are fairly cheap to buy and replace yourself. If you look at the PCV hose and you notice that it is smooth, then I would start with that as it is the most likely suspect. The new one will have a cross-hatch ribbed pattern to it. If you have this ribbed hose, then odds are, that is not your issue.

The other likely thing is you have a bad misfire coming from a cylinder. This will be noted by a P030X code where the X is indicating the cylinder that is misfiring. So, for example, a P301 code would be a misfire on cylinder #1. Odds are, you are going to get either P0301, P0303, and/or P0305. These are the 3 cylinders nearest the firewall on your car, with #1 cylinder being the one on the left as you are looking into the engine bay, #3 in the center, and #5 is to your right. These cylinders are known for having the valve cover gaskets failing over time and they will fill up with oil. This leads to a misfire. On a side note, did you happen to drive through some deep water just before this happened? If so, it could be just that you got some water in these plug wells to. We have seen that.

Start with this and then we can take things from there. Just stick with us and we can help you fix the car yourself and not have to be replacing parts just because.

 

I have attached the report I received regarding the error codes.

 

DJRhoades, in short, your P0305 code is causing a lot of other codes. This is where things can get a little bit confusing with modern day cars. Your problem lies with cylinder #5. This is located on the back side of the motor, on the right side. So, you are going to have to lift the top half of the intake off to get to the coil (there is lots of write ups here on how to do this, not hard, so don't worry, just takes a bit of time). From there, I would say to pull the coil and look at the top of it. Do you see what looks like a white hair in the clear top? If yes, replace the coil. If no white hair, then look at the rubber boot end for signs of oil. If you see oil, then you have a bad valve cover gasket and that will eventually need to be replaced (odds are, you can put some paper towels down the plug well now and be good for another few thousand miles. This will come back though. Probably a good idea to pull the plug and wipe the oil off of the plug and gently use a wire brush to clean the tip of the spark plug (this will remove any black carbon that is there that has built up).

If you don't find oil in the plug well, then I would say to remove the coil for cylinder #2 (near the radiator, left side) and swap it with the one from cylinder #5. At this point, reassemble the car. As you are finishing things up, you want to reset the codes (you have some old ones in there). This can be done by either taking your code reader and clearing the codes or simply disconnecting the negative battery terminal, waiting 5-10 seconds and then reconnecting the battery (will need to reprogram the windows, but this is easy). Take the car for a drive. If the check engine light comes back on, get the codes read. If you now have a P0302 code, then you have a bad coil (buy a new coil since you are at the auto parts place, they should have a coil, if they say that they don't, then ask them if they have the coil for an 05 Lincoln LS 3.0L, I bet they will, same part). If the problem continues with cylinder #5, let us know and we can take things from there.

If you are not mechanically inclined, this will probably run you about $400 or so to have this work done as it will be about a 3 hour job.

 

I replaced the six coils and the six plugs. Everything was running fine drove about 10 miles and it started spitting and sputtering again came back home took me intake off and number one cylinder it look like the coil was melted in the middle so I replaced it took it out for a drive ran good for about 10 minutes started missing again. Also when the car started missing the first time it felt like the transmission was jerking out of the car .I also got a transmission failure light. I’ve only had the car a few months and it has ran excellent the whole time

 

After replacing the coils and plugs the first time it started missing again I took it straight back to the store they read the exact same codes as before but I don’t think they could clear my codes out of my car with their little handheld device. Also no water or oil on boot. Very dry

 

DJRhoades, well, with new coils and plugs, that normally resolves the problem. So, we are now down to either a wiring issue or a fuel issue. I would say to start with checking the ground connections for the coils. They should be located behind the passenger headlight on the side of the front cylinder head. Remove the bolt, clean the connections (return them to a shiny silver state) and then put things back together. See what you have at that point. After that, it is most likely a fuel injector issue. Unfortunately, you will need to pull the intake again to get to the fuel injectors. While the intake is off, I would give the wiring a check. There are 2 things that I would be looking for. Inside the connectors, see if the pins inside them are silver in color. If they are not, then use a small scribe or other device to scratch the surface and remove the dark corrosion. The second thing is to get yourself a pencil or a larger screw driver and what you are going to do is bend the wiring over the cylinder. What you are looking for is the wiring to make a sharp bend, not a long curl. What this is saying is that there is a break in the wire and what you have happening is the ends of the wire are touching, but periodically, the wires are separating and breaking the circuit. You will need to do this with both the coil wiring and the fuel injector wiring.

 

OK I checked all the wires they seem to be fine and I clean the ground screws behind the headlight they didn’t seem like they were dirty they were pretty clean so I start the car in the driveway everything is smooth it warms up it drops down to around 700 RPM or so and everything is real smooth I drive through the neighborhood up to about 30 miles an hour everything is smooth I get out on the road everything goes smooth until I get about 2800 rpm’s like it’s getting ready to change gears and it falls flat on its face makes the transmission chug real bad. Also while sitting in the driveway in park I can rev the car up to 4000 rpm very easy but out on the road I can’t get it to go to 3000 without it spitting in sputtering and chugging. My other concern is I had a transmission failure light come on during all this too and it also came on two weeks before this happened I just pulled over turn the car off unplug the battery turn the car back on and everything was fine I really do appreciate your feedback I just moved to Florida recently and don’t really know any mechanics or shops around here

 

DJRhoades, you mention a n interesting number, 3000 RPMs. The car has a safety feature built into it that if you have a spark problem, that it will limit the engine RPMs to 3000. This may be why you are feeling the car running fine until you hit 3000 RPM. Then it seems to die on you. The information cluster should be telling you that it is "restricted performance" or something to that effect when you feel the engine die.at 3000 RPM.

Since you have checked the wiring, then this is leading me to believe you have a failing fuel injector. I would do a quick check of the fuel rail pressures. There is a valve stem looking piece on the left side of the intake. This is called a schrader valve. This is attached to the fuel line. If you go to the auto parts store and rent their fuel pressure tester, it should screw on to that. You will want to do 2 readings. The first is with the car in the RUN position, but the engine not running. You should see 50-55 psig of pressure. The next check is to start the engine. You should see it drop to 40-50 psig (closer to 40 at idle, as you rev it, should climb slightly towards 50). If you have too high of pressure with the engine running, then you may have a vacuum leak between the intake and the fuel pressure regulator. If the pressure is too low, then odds are you are looking at a fuel pump that is failing.

 

Soz, Thermo but, the fuel Schrader valve was eliminated on 2004.5 models forward. The Jaguar explanation is =

The Jaguar explanation at the time of the deletion of the schraeder valve is as follows:
The vehicle has a new fuel system designed to meet USA
Federal LEV 2 emissions requirements. Parts affected are:
• Under floor fuel lines.
• Fuel tank assembly.
• Fuel filler pipe.
• Carbon canister.
• Fuel filler cap.
Service Port
In order to further reduce emissions, the fuel rail ’schraeder’
valve is deleted. Should a service port be needed, a new
service special tool will be available to fit between the fuel
rail and the fuel feed line connection.

 

Thermo, I have another question ,After replacing two more new coil’s car seems to be doing fine. two days ago it started raining real hard on my way home from work ,I noticed water coming in on my passenger floorboard mat . my transmission fault light came on the dash. Also the engine light came back on had it checked it said PCV valve .change that, had it cleared ,everything is running fine no more engine light ,but my transmission fault light keeps coming on every time I start to drive the car it’s almost like it’s stuck in fourth gear. I know I’ve read on here are a few places where people say if your gear box got wet this can happen can you please tell me what you think I should do

 

Is there any chance that you could use proper punctuation to make your postings more understandable?

 

sorry. I added the commas

 

DJRhoades, I am on travel, so I don't have my normal resources with me. But, from the sounds of things, you have a stuck open ventilation flap in the cowl and this is allowing water into the cabin of the car. I forget if the tranny computer is in the passenger or the driver's footwell area. So, based on what you are seeing, I would have a tendency to think it is in the passenger footwell area. What you have happening is water has gotten to the computer and it is inside the computer. I am thinking your best solution is to first fix the damper in the cowl to prevent the water intrusion. Then, after that, pull the tranny computer from the car and put it into a large tub of rice and/or desiccant. This will help pull the water out of the computer. From there, you will figure out if there is permanent damage to the tranny computer. I would also look at the connectors to the tranny computer to make sure that the pins look good (silver in color, if not, use some electronics cleaner and spray both sides of the connector really good). Put things back together and see what you have.

YOu can try putting the tranny computer in a hot box and help get the moisture out, but DO NOT!!!!!!! exceed 150F as this can cause damage to the electronics and then you are most likely going to end up buying a new tranny computer.

 

Thank you for getting back with me sorry to bother you while on travel. My TCM is on the driver side left and my ECM is on the passenger side right. I will try taking both of them out and taping them up like I saw in a video. Once again thank you for replying Also that left and right is sitting inside the car

 

Sounds like you have a vacuum leak on the throttle plates in the intake manifold. Remove the plates, goop them up with sealer and replace. Worked every time with mine (twice in 135K miles). Don't over think it, it's a leak at maximum draw.
Zaphod

 

Thanks for the reply. Came home from work yesterday something told me( you ) to take the battery out and start looking for vacuums around the transmission . look down between the radiator and the transmission and there was a bunch of wires bolted on the transmission. one of them was broke. Spliced it together and Bam transmission working fine

 

Well, that's a bit of a new one for your problem = missing with codes.
Glad you found the source.

 

Would anyone have the metholody instructions of replacing the handbrake assembly on a a 2002 x type?
Many thanks