Hi guys. so where to start. i bought a 2006 x type jaguar from a dealer, seemingly all ok. initially maybe 2 days later 2 engine codes popped up p0430. catalyst system below efficiency threshold bank 2. and p1111 this code no longer appears. I cleared that code re topped some fluids and hopped it would stay away. then a code reappeared this time it was different p0133 (02 sensor circuit slow response bank1 sensor 1). this code then went away 5 days later on its own, then came back 1 day afterwards with the original p0430 (catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 2) code and p0153 (02 circuit slow response bank 2 sensor 1). I'm wondering what might be cuasing these issues. Do i need to replace the two o2 sensors pre cat, see how it goes then potentially fix the catalyst issue. I'm leaning towards gapping the post cat sensor to trick the computer and save money but i was wondering if there was a cheaper way all together than replacing both the pre cat sensors. Could something else be responsible. these check engine lights occured within the first few drives after purchasing so im guessing the previous seller cleared the codes, i didn't check with a code reader if a pending ecu check code was present although i wish i had. the seller said he didn't clear codes. These issues presented quickly enough to suggest he may have.
For reference around this time I accidently drained the battery by leaving the lights on and somewhere in the process perhaps jump starting it blew the fan control module, meaning that the fans always blow at full power when connected to power. im not 100% sure but i think this happened after the codes appeared would this have any impact anyway? ( this is not confirmed to be a fcm error but i did use a multimeter to test the wires and they are showing normal readings as per other threads pointing to a fcm error) this occurs when the car is on/off// has no key in at all and is not dependent on air con or if the car has been used recently and is warm)
And another question i was wondering from time to time coasting down hill at speed i shift into neutral (automatic) doubtedly would this have any impact on my check engine lights? and also is this bad for the engine /transmission (having to shift back into drive whilst car is moving)
thanks alot guys any help here is much appreciated.

 

Shifting an automatic tranny like you are is just fine. Just do not shift the tranny into RACE (R) (Joking here, heard stories about this).

As for the battery, this may be explaining a few things because your error codes are all over the place. Something you will find out about this car is that it is very sensitive to its capacity and the voltage overall in the vehicle. So, having a voltage that is not being filtered correctly by the battery can lead to random codes and you pulling your hair out in trying to fix issues. I would say to first go to the local auto parts store and have them do a "battery load check" (aka, battery check). Specifically, you are after the CAPACITY RATING. You want something atleast at 75%, but higher the better. If you are near 75% or are below it, replace the battery and then see what your car is doing. I know it sounds stupid, but there are tons of people here that have been in your same spot and this fixed all their issues.

There are 2 other things that you should be aware of. 1 directly affects your current sitiation, the ohter you WILL!!! run into in the near future. The one that can affect you now is the battery cables. They are known for getting internal resistance and this will play havoc with your car's voltage. The simple check is to let the car sit overnight (12+ hours) to get to ambient). Now, start the car up and turn on the seat heaters, rear defroster, front defroster (on high), and the headlights. Let hte car idle like this for about 5 minutes. After 5 minutes, turn everything offf, turn off the car and then CUP YOUR HAND OVER!!!!!! each of the battery terminals Do they feel like they are the temp of other metal parts under the hood or do you think you could fry an egg on one of those terminals (ie, is very hot). If it is hot, you need to replace the battery cable. This may be causing your voltage in the car to wander and lead to your codes.

The longer term thing you will run into is vacuum leaks. There's tons of stories here about these. We have what we call "The Big 3". These 3 things cause a majority of the issues in a car. These 3 things are: 1) brake booster hose going from the top if the intake to the brake booster (specifically the little plastic football looking thing (check valve) in the middle of hte line (it is known to deteriorate and crumble, rubbing your thumb on it and getting dust and whatnot off of it is a warning that it is comnig close to needing replaced), 2) PCV hose running from the PCV valve to the intake (this runs parallel to the throttle body and the hose is about the diameter of your thumb, if you have a ribbed version, then you should be good), and 3) the IMT o-rings (located on the left side of the engine as you are standing in front of the car behind the black plastic covers that are about 4 inches in diameter). Do some looking about "the big 3" and there will be more stories and info out there than you will care to read about.

 

thanks a lot for your response thermo, from what I've seen you're the man when it comes to fixing jag issues on this forum. I'll do some investigating today/tomorrow as to the battery capacity and cables. As for the big 3 I'm assuming these things can cause a multitude of issues are you suggesting these may be playing a part in my error codes. doing some research online I am having the same noise as this video on my cold starts and periodicaly when at operating temperature. He has some usefull information and as you mentioned as to other forum posts i will do some research and investigating as to not waste too much of your time! I'll check back in tomorrow morning after i check the battery cables for resistance thanks alot!

 

I should mention aswell that i have a pending engine code p1111 basically constant stating: intake air temp sensor circuit intermittent high voltage.
And my battery light comes on for a less than a second from time to time. Thought this may be relevant info based on your voltage sensitivity comment!

 

jagowner, a P1111 is a code you want. That says that everything is functioning properly. I know some websites say otherwise. Do not believe them. If you need a chart with all the jaguar specific error codes on it, let me know. I will feed you that. This way you get the proper informaiton. There is a lot of wrong information out there about our cars.

As for the Big 3, these all relate back to P0171/P0174 error codes which are vacuum leak errors. I am sure you will become familiar with these in the near future.

The intermittent battery light could be a symptom of the low capacity battery/high resistance battery cables. Get the battery checked out and then do my test on the cables. We can then take things from there.

 

+1 P1111 is good.

Battery light is odd and somewhat worrying.

 

battery terminals weren't hot at all haven't had time to do a capacity test on the battery yet. will try for tomorrow

 

OK update, took it to a shop and they tested the battery it was giving out 12.8 volts with minor variance like.05 difference. we had to take off the cables because the reader couldn't get a voltage by clamping onto the outside of them. Do we have any thoughts on this, there is also some minor corrosion around the terminals. Couldn't get a capacity test in a percentage reading and didn't want to stick around tbf they were quite rude. Do i need to get the capacity tested still, did they perform the wrong test? I can source a tester of this kind no worries just need to know. cheers

 

jagowner#1, all that they should have needed to do is connect 2 clamps to the battery. So, this clamp on the outside of the battery cable is telling me that they are doing the wrong test. That clamp is measuring current going through the battery cable and for the capacity test, it should not be needed. Get the capacity test done and lets see what you have at that point.

 

Post #10 =

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...er-car-212404/

This is a very expensive machine ($15,000+) which few auto suppliers/shops use. Many Wal-Marts do.

 

hi thermo sorry i wasn't clear. when they tested my battery it was still connected to the car so they connected the tester electrode clamps to my battery terminals which were covered by the connection to the car. If that makes sense. They couldn't get a reading doing this for some reason. When they disconnected the car connection and tested the battery directly onto the terminals it returned that reading of 12.8 ish and 'passed'
Thanks for the info dell. i think they only performed a voltage check. i can call some mechanics and ask about it.
Would it be worth saving the hassle and replacing the battery with one in a mates car i think its 4 months old so should be ok. If i did this would the idea be to clear the codes and wait for them to come back (hopefully not) I was potentially thinking those other 2 codes were coming up delayed because it took the ECU longer to recognise them or is that just a stupid idea?
Thanks a lot for your help guys!!

 

jagowner#1, you cna do that. When you replace the battery, odds are you wlll loose the codes. So, there should not be a need to clear them again. You will need to reprogram the windows down function, but that is easy to do and takes all of 5 minutes to do. If in doubt about the condition of the battery, before connecting up the battery terminals, put the friends battery on a charger. Let that tell you if the battery is at full charge. Worst case, give it a few hours of charging time.

 

hi guys, I've fully charged my battery it was ready 40% full charge, its back in now. The engine codes didn't clear although the car was disconnected from battery supply overnight. the 3 codes that are there are unchanged: p0133, p0153, p0430. which are interpreted by my reader as 02 sensor circuit slow response bank1 sensor 1, bank 2 sensor 1 and catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 2 respectively. Do you suggest clearing the codes and checking if they return I have done limited amounts of driving since replacing the battery. Or are there any other alternatives to replacing the 02 sensors that I should consider? Thanks alot guys. Is recharging my battery enough to eliminate your concerns or should I try and get a newer one, I'm unsure as to how old the current one is but as I said previously it was drained completely not long ago

 

I would check fuses F20 and F21 first. But, if those are good, then I would be looking at replacing the upstream O2 sensors.

 

awesome thanks thermo, Do you have a fuse diagram for the x type 2006 models .
Thanks a lot. will look at replacing the upstream sensors, do you have any thoughts on which sensors to buy ie. generic brand or straight from manufacturer.

Cheers.

 

jagowner#1, look in the lid of the engine bay fuse box. There should be a diagram there. It isn't painted, but if you look in the plastic, it will tell you which fuse goes where and what size it should be. If you are standing in front of the car, fuses F20 and F21 are in the far left corner of the engine bay fuse box. Both should be 15A fuses.

As for O2 sensors, stick with Bosch. Cannot say I have heard of anyone having issues with those. Sure, they are a few dollars more, but pretty much guarantee flawless operation. Sticking with a brand name is a must. DO NOT!!!!! try and save a few bucks by getting the ones that you have to add the pins to the wires and put them in the plug yourself. I have heard more horror stories from people trying this than I care to admit to.

 

Thanks alot for your help guys, final question as I'm now replacing the sensors. does anyone know the specific part number for the o2 sensors pre cat on the intake as above? Or perhaps a link to amazon/ebay of someonse selling them.
Thanks alot!

 

Upstream OEM O2 sensors are Denso part numbers 234-9029 and Jag part numbers C2S51801.

If you can put a code reader on there you might be able to look at the actual O2 sensor readings and get better info for troubleshooting. Upstream sensors should be banging around a lot from rich to lean every few milliseconds. Downstream sensors should be comparatively steady, barely changing over several seconds and changing very gradually.

 

Just looked at your signature and realized the part numbers I gave are for the 3.0L petrol engine and not for your 2.1L Sorry.

 

I think that the sensors are the same for all metro, X-Types. I fitted a Denso DOX 0430 for both the upper sensors on any 2.1 X Type an have had no problems with them.