I have torque’d my last lug nut and have done my initial test runs. It is sooooo nice to be driving this fun car once again.

A few things actually left to do before TOTALLY finished. I left the plastic wheel arches off. This is so I can drive it to and from work all week, about 200 miles, and then easily check for any surprises. I will also need to permanently mount my gauges.

I will finalize my post here after this week.

It's been both fun and drawn out but so far I am well pleased.

 

I fired mine up last night! what a relief. Since I purchased her, it was the first time I heard the engine. I bought it with a head gasket issue for $1200.I wasnt even sure if the block was ok, or if it would knock, thank god everything turned out ok. now I have to tackle in to some dummy lights on the dash. Thanks for the help guys.

 

Yesterday, I started the X-type again. It was idling very smooth everything seemed fine so I decided to take it for a test drive for the first time after the head gasket installation. I and started driving, When I pushed on the gas pedal (while accelerating) I was hearing a noise (like a lose heat shield on an exhaust manifold) So I popped the hood and checked, whenever I pushed on the gas that rattling or tapping sound was coming from under the intake manifold. I was a little worried but didnt think what was coming at me. So long story short, after driving about a mile I heard a noise like poping and engine died. brought back to the garage removed the spark plugs and saw my intake valves are all bent and I could see it from spark plug hole.

Engine is completely dead right now. I dont know what went wrong with it.

Eveything was torqued down to the specs. Did it skip a tooth on the timing chain? I dont think so.

Here is my theory of what happened. Since its a VVT engine. Intake cam shafts has some freeplay for the Variable valve timing. When I did the timing on this car, I must have missed a tooth or two. Probably it was the timing mechanism inside the cam caused me to make this mistake. Car was idling just fine, however underload, ECM retarted the timing of the intake cam and caused the intake valves and pistons to crash.

JTIS didnt say anything about the intake cams having a freeplay. So this is an important update for those who works on these engines.

I dont know If I just take the old engine out and swap it with another one, or should I remove the heads and see what kind of damage it has caused and get a new set of valves.

 

Southwest - so sorry to hear about your probs...a real bummer
Hopefully maybe James / 310 or one of techs can advise you

All the best

 

ok i re did the timing again and it seems to idle a little rough not to bad i closely counted all the links between the teeth and everything about 10 times before i reassembled it. Would it take a while to start idling better or would it idle fine right off the start. My car did have a 2.5 but i put a 3.0 would the computer be ok for that?

 

When it comes to timming, timming advance, fuel/air mixtures you better beleive that the computer is responding with pre-programmed set of data. Things that also will affect are O2 readings.

It is my opinion that the computer for your 2.5l would need to be re-programed. Or if you can get your hands on the new engines computer that would be best.

The difference between the 2.5 and the 3.0 is the BORE and PISTON size. Aside from that everything is pretty much the same.

Can you see how a computer for a 2.5 might be starving a 3.0, given the different bore and piston. The fuel/air tables are probably different.

 

would it run at all if i knocked couple the valves from when i tried to time it jtis style. I dont hear any knockings or anything. I was so sure I had the timing on I studied these pictures over and over. When my engine blew could it have messed up any sensors or anything? I found a post that a guy put a 3.0 in his 2.5 he said he didn't change the computer and runs great. It just seems that it's so close its running just not smooth enough for me a little vibration in the car from the motor. Thanks for all your help.

 

jfenley

Wonderful thread. I am new on this site. So hello to everyone.

I've joined up just in response to your thread and the other engine removel thread.

I am inspired by how you have dealt with the problems facing a rebuilder
ie lack of information, lack of parts at fair prices and using the tools you have as opposed to breaking bank.

Your photos and text were excellent. Youve done well with the Fuji A210.
If anyone in London, UK is rebuilding an engine and needs a pair of hands and some specialist tools to assist, I am available.

Apart from the rebuild, my interest is in taking pictures to document the story.
Its hard to press on with the rebuild and take good pictures at the same time.

Danny

 

Hear Here!
I agree with Danny (Jagudeisel)!
I am beguiled at the honest hard work you have put into this! Admirable, Worthy and I am completely overwhelmed at your dexterity in following this through!
I think a medal/award or something should be presented here.
As a newbie, I am in awe! Well Done! Keep the Baby rolling now!
You have overcome many hurdles, I wish you an easier time now and if we lived nearer a celebratory beer or two would be in order! To be in your company and ask you how you feel after this awesome adventure would be cherished?
Congratulations in order!
Thank you! Stu

 

Can some body please tell me which holes on the cylinder bock for coolant and which holes for the oil. Thanks

 

To me this is a mind blowing thread, so far over my head I'm dizzy. Love all the pics and write-ups tho. Bravo and cheers to you 310 and JFennly, and everyone that has contributed.

It's an incredible amount of work and know-how, knowledge, experience, to rebuild a modern engine from the ground up. Would anyone consider buying a rebuilt or new crate motor instead? Back when I had my 98' Cadillac Eldorado I considered a crate motor after the headgasket blew at 140K miles. I recall the cost was $3,500 for the Northstar engine, not sure about shipping cost as I never did buy it. Bought my X Type instead.

 

I am really impressed by the skills and knowledge these guys have. I know my limitations and I'm not there yet. Swap seems to be the easiest and possibly cheapest method.

I have never priced out an X-Type motor, but I bought a 3.8 for a Firebird for $650 in good shape used. I have seen others, like the Mazda/Ford 2.0 sell for half that. If/when I go to replace this one I will first try to find one from an 02-03 X-Type (mine is an 02) and then look for a Lincoln LS 3.0. If still no luck I'll buy a running but junked X-Type to swap them. Crate motors are expensive, but often come with a 3 year warranty if installed by a certified mechanic.

 

No go on a brand new crate motor. They don't exist anymore. Even if there was one around, Jaguar quoted $9,000. So that's a big fat HELL NO...lol...I am having mine rebuilt and I read through this thread so I can somewhat understand what they will be doing. Very detailed post!!

 

Here's a link to a crate Duratec 3.0L for $2,500, but, they give no details or specs. Probably too good to be true!

PowerTrain Products
Ford 3.0 V6 engine 2005 Duratec engine

 

Odd it doesn't mention the Lincoln LS or the X-Type as possible applications.

 

It's funny how people are so insistent on the "its just a ford" or "its the exact same engine as the lincoln LS" ...ITS NOT!!! get it through your thick skulls people!!!

There are probably two threads on here that describe having successfully installed an LS engine into an XTYPE, and that was with some major mods to the mounts and they ended up having issues with codes due to software. If it was that easy, then it wouldn't be that hard to find crate engines that were actually spec'ed for the XTYPE. I don't want to get my panties in a wad over this, but it makes no sense to keep repeating what you have heard from other people and try to pass it off as the absolute truth. Prove to me that Jaguar is running the exact same engine as a ford focus!!!!...., because essentially the focus ran the duratec for years. The DURATEC that is in our XTYPES was heavily modified. Its not the same as a godam Lincoln LS or whatever else you want to say it is.

 

When I replaced my engine at the end of 2014, I bought a brand new Jaguar crate engine for $1,800 plus shipping (under $200). The Jaguar dealers wanted over $8,000 for a crate motor.

 

That's hilarious!!!! Why would you do that?

 

What's hilarious?

I bought a brand new, never used engine for a vehicle with 75,000 miles which I bought brand new and knew the history on. A brand new crate engine delivered to my door for $2000, I'd say that's pretty good.

How much is your rebuild costing you?

The $8,000 that was in my upper post is what the Jaguar dealer quoted me for a crate engine.