ABS Codes question
#1
ABS Codes question
A few weeks back I started getting the ABS light. Along with the emergency parking brake light! Anyway, I went to my local Jag guy today and I think I must have had every code connected to the ABS. He cleared them and told me to come back when and if the light came back. It took 5 seconds and the ABS light, along with the emergency parking brake light, came on.
He sourced the code C1095 which apparently is the ABS computer. I know theres a problem with these computers with poor/cracked solder on the pump motor pins. But I'm not really that good, or confident with a soldering iron.
So, will replacing with a used ABS computer fix the problem?
And, why is the emergency brake light coming on with the ABS light?
I've tried messing with the emergency brake lever. But the light comes on only when the ABS light comes on.
Is this what I need?
02 06 Jaguar x Type ABS Brake Module Controller 0 265 800 008 Modulator Computer | eBay
Heres the lights, with the emrg. brake light:
He sourced the code C1095 which apparently is the ABS computer. I know theres a problem with these computers with poor/cracked solder on the pump motor pins. But I'm not really that good, or confident with a soldering iron.
So, will replacing with a used ABS computer fix the problem?
And, why is the emergency brake light coming on with the ABS light?
I've tried messing with the emergency brake lever. But the light comes on only when the ABS light comes on.
Is this what I need?
02 06 Jaguar x Type ABS Brake Module Controller 0 265 800 008 Modulator Computer | eBay
Heres the lights, with the emrg. brake light:
#2
Join Date: May 2008
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flyrr, per the Jaguar code lists that I have, C1095 is not for the ABS computer. That code states that the hydraulic pump motor is exhibiting a circuit fault (either short or open). So, replacing the computer probably will not fix this issue. This to me is sounding like you need to replace the ABS module. If you want to prove things beyond a shadow of a doubt, this is what you need to do (will require the use of a multimeter).
1) With the car parked, turn off the car (ie, ignition switch in the OFF position)
2) remove the plug on the ABS module
3) with a multimeter set to read 12 VDC, measure between Pin 2 in the plug and chassis ground. Was the voltage more than 10 VDC?
4) with a multimeter set to read 12 VDC, measure between Pin 6 in the plug and chassis ground. Was the voltage more than 10 VDC?
5) if either/both of these voltages was less than 10 VDC, you most likely have a blown fuse. Check Fuse F3. If the fuse is good, then you have a wiring issue between the plug and the fuse box. if both were more than 10 VDC, continue to step 6.
6) with the multimeter set to read resistance (less than 2K ohm), measure between Pin 1 on the plug and chassis ground. Was the resistance less than 5 ohms?
7) with the multimeter set to read resistance (less than 2K ohm), measure between Pin 5 on the plug and chassis ground. Was the resistance less than 5 ohms?
8) if either/both of these were more than 5 ohms, you have a bad ground wire between the plug and chassis. Repair as needed. If both are less than 5 ohms, you most likely have a bad ABS module based on the checks performed.
Hope this helps.
1) With the car parked, turn off the car (ie, ignition switch in the OFF position)
2) remove the plug on the ABS module
3) with a multimeter set to read 12 VDC, measure between Pin 2 in the plug and chassis ground. Was the voltage more than 10 VDC?
4) with a multimeter set to read 12 VDC, measure between Pin 6 in the plug and chassis ground. Was the voltage more than 10 VDC?
5) if either/both of these voltages was less than 10 VDC, you most likely have a blown fuse. Check Fuse F3. If the fuse is good, then you have a wiring issue between the plug and the fuse box. if both were more than 10 VDC, continue to step 6.
6) with the multimeter set to read resistance (less than 2K ohm), measure between Pin 1 on the plug and chassis ground. Was the resistance less than 5 ohms?
7) with the multimeter set to read resistance (less than 2K ohm), measure between Pin 5 on the plug and chassis ground. Was the resistance less than 5 ohms?
8) if either/both of these were more than 5 ohms, you have a bad ground wire between the plug and chassis. Repair as needed. If both are less than 5 ohms, you most likely have a bad ABS module based on the checks performed.
Hope this helps.
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#6
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flyrr, go to a place like Lowes/Home Depot and see if they have some stuff called "Contact cleaner". It will be in a spray can. PUll off the plug and give the pins a good squirt. If you can't find it there, your local auto parts place should have it too.
If you are talking about actually opening up the "black box" and cleaning the circuit card itself, then let me know. It can be done. Granted, mostly what you should be checking for is any capacitors (will look like really mini coke cans) that are expanded/dark and if any of the solder joints have what look like black hairs running though them and/or in a ring. That is normally what causes a circuit card to fail. But, like I mention, if you are wanting to "clean" the circuit card, let me know.
If you are talking about actually opening up the "black box" and cleaning the circuit card itself, then let me know. It can be done. Granted, mostly what you should be checking for is any capacitors (will look like really mini coke cans) that are expanded/dark and if any of the solder joints have what look like black hairs running though them and/or in a ring. That is normally what causes a circuit card to fail. But, like I mention, if you are wanting to "clean" the circuit card, let me know.
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