Hi folks, looking for HELP with my 2005 x type
several months ago i had an ABS light appear , took it to the garage to read the codes. at that point the engine light came on and i all of a sudden had 12 code numbers relating to just about everything. i was told the wheel at fault is the rear left . I was driving to Wales (from switzrerland) the next day so decided to buy the parts in britain (ABS sensor here 220 quid....without cable : )) The light went out after a while and stayed of until i got to warm and sunny Wales. So with the money i saved on the sensor i bought an icarsoft LV2 which can read ABS codes!

I fitted the new sensor with cable in no time but still was getting the C1175 code "rear left wheel brake in circuit" . while i had the rear seat out i swapped over the rear wheel connections . rear right wheel to the left connecter and rear left wheel to the right connecter, theoretically the fault should now have read " rear right wheel brake in circuit" But it didn't. This lead me to the conclusion that the fault lays between the connecter(left side) under the rear seat and the ABS module.

Today after attaching Mr. icarsoft i only have one code c1175, all the others have vanished i`m glad to say. Over the last month or two the ABS light comes of and on along with the engine light not necessarily at the same time , i don't know where to go from here , am i barking up the wrong tree? is there something else that is triggering the ABS/Engine light????

HELP PLEASE!!

 

hellokitty, based on you having an X-Type, I would still look at the left rear wheel. What I would say to do is to remove the sensor and look down in the hole. You should see a metal band in there that has rectangular holes in it. This is what people refer to as the "reluctance ring". This is what the sensor sees to use as a pick up. This ring is known for rusting and breaking, leading to the ring not causing the sensor to see the wheel turning. I am not saying that you don't have a wiring issue, but 99% of the time, it is the sensor or the ring that is the issue, not the wiring.

Assuming that you found no issues at the sensor, I would start with accessing the wiring at the rear seat and start removing the door trim leading to the front of the car to hand over hand the wiring. It is possible that the cable has become damaged over the years and now the cable is causing the one wheel sensor to not be seen by the ABS computer. You should be able to follow the cable all the way up to the firewall. I would then remove the connector on the engine bay side of the firewall to verify that the terminals look good there (spray with a contact cleaner if in doubt, all pins should have a silvery color to them). From there, you will need to continue following the wiring harness up to the ABS module. This is where you should see another connector and you can inspect this one too, ensuring all the pins look good. At this point, you have either a problem internal to the insulation of the wiring (until it fails hard, it makes it a bugger to troubleshoot) or your ABS module has an internal issue. If the error code is locked in and cannot be cleared, you may want to try undoing the plug at the ABS module and then at the plug under the rear seat, attach what is called a "cable chaser" (used in the IT world to track down ethernet cables a long distance away). But, what will happen is you will attach the transmitter to the plug under the rear seat and then you can use the receiver to run it near the cable bundle. It will give you a tone on the receiver as long as the wiring is good between the 2 halves. if the wire opens, the tone will go away. You then known within a few inches of where your problem lies. These can be had for around $40 USD and up. Handy tool to have. the more expensive ones allow you to plug it into an outlet too so you can find the correct breaker in your house to turn off the correct breaker when doing wiring projects.

 

 

hey Thanks Chris for your time, much appreciated!!
When the problem first occurred i checked the wheel speed with icarsoft and i had nothing on the rear left . yesterday i checked it again and it appeared to be good, both running at the same speed, this is also why i presumed its the wiring. ill check it again and report back .
like the idea of a cable chaser, sounds like a good bit of kit to have.

again many thanks,
nigel

 

hellokitty, if you are going to get one of the cable chasers, play with it a bit by taking some wire and laying it out on say a countertop and get a feel for how close you need to be and what sort of tones it will make. You can then run beyond the end of the wire to see how it would sound/look when you get beyond a broken spot in the wire. A little bit of playing will help make sure you don't go on a wild goose chase.

 

Hi Guys, not been on for a while but still got my X type, the car must have been working ok.! I had a similar situation the other day, when my engine management light went on, the ABS light came on, and the car went into limp mode showing the coil symbol on the dash. Once the car is re started all fault lights go out, and it works fine. Then after around 10/15 minutes of the engine running the car goes into limp mode again, and the ABS light comes on with the coil sign. I know the rear brake pads are very low and my first mission is to replace these tomorrow, I doubt this would trigger the ABS warning light but unsure? Would an ABS fault put the car in limp mode? If anybody can enlighten me Id be grateful. Next plan from here if replacing the pads doesn't work is to buy a code reader, however from reading posts by other people they seem to be a little hit and miss on the diagnostic reading and seem to be a bit of a stab in the dark, I'm looking at a cheap streetwise obd2 reader you use with an app for £10 at my local spares store, so not to much of a risk but if anybody has any advice as to a good reader again id be grateful.

 

 

 

@hellokitty, this is the tracer Thermo spoke about =

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cable-Teste...-/401439960463

 

thanks a lot !! everyone!
I've ordered a cable chaser should be here by the end of the week. .....But i since sunday the ABS and engine light are no more!!!

3 days is a new record, i did remove the cover of the ABS module ,out of curiosity , and then after seeing there was not much i could do replaced it.
not sure how all them little piston things work in there , is it possible one of them could have been a bad connection or whatever ??
anyway maybe i`m jumping the gun, after all its only three days!! However without a light i can't go much further, all the same I`m Happy -no lights!
i`m sure there will be many more occasions where i can go chasing cables with my new tool .who knows maybe tomorrow the lights WILL BE BACK!!

if i can give my 2pence worth regarding a OBD reader buy something decent from a reputable Dealer. i have twice bought readers on "ricardo" (switzerlands answer to Ebay) and on both occasions ended up with what i believe to be china rip offs.By looking at them theres no difference, They function to an extent , you can switch of the oil light etc. and there are codes thrown up now and again , which you can delete....but i don't trust them. and a reader you cant trust is not worth having in my opinion .
As stated above in summer i bought a icarsoft LR V2.0 which is for jaguar and land rover. It s simple to use works well so far, i purchased it from UK Parts Direct , which were excellent. (covers many models) but....cost 140quid . but here in switzerland you pay that for parking outside the jaguar garage ; )

Will keep you informed,

 

Have you tried disconnecting and reconnection the harness from the abs module yet? Many times a disconnect and reconnect cleans the pins enough from their poor connectin to work again. Happens alot more than many realize

 

Thanks for sharing your info so far. Interestingly enough, I opened a can of worms when changing the pads yesterday, found there was a ceased calliper on the rear UK driver side, causing the pad to wear much quicker than the other side, the pads were virtually down to the metal. I picked another one up and fitted it yesterday and all worked fine, however again after about 15 minutes the fault reappeared, I could hear the ABS module start and the anti skid warning light started flashing. The car was stationary and not moved at this point. I did move the ABS module in the engine bay and low and behold the faults cleared after a restart. I haven't used the car since to see if that is still the case, but I'm going to check over the connections today and see if that makes any difference.

 

hellokitty: This thread contains pictures of the ABS electronics module, separated from the ABS hydraulic module in my 2002 X-Type: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...6/#post1890800

Those "little piston things" inside the ABS module are 12 solenoid valves, 3 for each of the 4 wheels. They redirect brake fluid independently and rapidly to activate & de-active the 4 brake calipers if a tire skids on slick pavement.

If you can't find a fault in the wheel speed sensors or sensor wires, the problem may be inside the Bosch ABS electronic modules. The contain very fine wires which are ultrasonically cold welded to the circuit board. With age and vibrations, the cold welds can break, causing a loose connection. The electronics are sealed in silicone to protect against moisture, and the silicone holds the wires in position, resulting in an intermittent electrical connection. Videos of the fine wires inside the ABS module are in this post: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...6/#post1894394

The ABS module in my 2002 X-Type had loose wires, which caused intermittent ABS and DSC faults that persisted with increasing frequency over a couple years while I unsuccessfully searched for a bad speed sensor or faulty sensor wires. Winters in Houston are mild and power brakes work fine even with the ABS & DSC disabled, so fixing it was a low priority. Finally, I had my ABS electronic module rebuilt by Yevgeniy "Gino" Nabedrik of Module Repair Pro, Van Nuys, CA, which solved all the ABS & DSC errors.

Search eBay or Google for "Bosch 5.7 ABS Repair" to find ABS repair services in Europe. Alternately, buy a used or rebuilt ABS module for your X-Type by matching the Bosch part number on the bottom of your ABS electronics module, likely 0 265 950 XXX, where "XXX" are 3 digits that vary by model year and with / without DSC. No need to replace the ABS hydraulic module, nor to bleed the brakes. The ABS electronic module is "plug and play", no programming required, though you may need an ABS code reader to clear any residual error codes after the repaired / replacement ABS electronics module is installed. I use an Autel AL619 code reader, with Jaguar-compatible software downloaded from Autel's website.

I'm not saying you have broken cold welds inside your X-Type's ABS module, just suggesting a possibility if you can't find any faults in the 4 speed sensors or related wiring.

 

Update on ABS warning light. OK so after bleeding the brakes out the fault code came back, I ended up purchasing a simple Bluetooth sender / reader that worked like a dream. Decided to get one that worked with my windows 10 laptop, I figured the brains in the laptop would do the main work in the diagnostics & it did. It took me longer to pair the reader to the laptop than it did to diagnose the actual fault. Fantastic tool called Streetwise only cost £10.99 from my local spares shop. Now its the task to decipher if I need to replace the wiring or the sensor.... further update coming soon

 

Doesn't do ABS codes, does it?

 

I figured the reader simply sends the code to whatever you tell it to, and the brains behind the deciphering would be the laptop. I used an app called Car scanner ELM OBD2 for windows 10. theres a screen shot attached to show the reading. As you can see it diagnosed the fault brilliantly.

 

Good news!

 

C1155 is the right rear speed sensor. Check there.

 

I ran through checking the wiring on front left sensor, all was sound. Replaced sensor and it fixed all other readings on OBD now working fine and a total cost of £18, excluding having to replace rear calliper and pads, but that would have needed doing any way. Seems the engine management will throw up goofy readings when its perhaps a simple fix but always good to follow fault finding process and theres some very good experienced help available on here.

 

I've seen a couple of times in this and other similar threads, people saying are you sure it's c1115 & not c1155? There is a c1115 code =
C1115 ABS Power Relay Output Short Circuit To Battery