AC Electrical Issue
#1
AC Electrical Issue
So my AC doesn't work. I had a friend look at it (he works on cars as a side job) and he says the compressor looks fine and it's full of gas. Says the relay is working, but there doesn't seem to be any power getting to the compressor. He mentioned that there's a valve of some kind that may be the problem. He says he doesn't know where the valve is and is pretty sure this is an electrical issue. The only thing I can find online (this forum) is the control valve in the compressor. This doesn't seem to be an electrical part.
Any suggestions on what valve he may be referring to and where it may be? Also, if anyone could possibly point me in the right direction of getting a wiring diagram for the AC, it would be appreciated.
***Edit*** He says it's a pressure valve if that helps anyone. ***Edit***
Any suggestions on what valve he may be referring to and where it may be? Also, if anyone could possibly point me in the right direction of getting a wiring diagram for the AC, it would be appreciated.
***Edit*** He says it's a pressure valve if that helps anyone. ***Edit***
Last edited by chiefshb; 08-10-2013 at 02:12 PM.
#2
Just as an update....
I took the car to a local Jag shop in Orlando, FL and they looked it over. Said there is a switch inside the compressor that engages the clutch. It is getting positive to it, but only ground coming out. Said I need to replace the compressor. Since the compressor needs to be changed, they also mentioned the drier and the orifice tube as well. Parts and labor...$833.95.
I took the car to a local Jag shop in Orlando, FL and they looked it over. Said there is a switch inside the compressor that engages the clutch. It is getting positive to it, but only ground coming out. Said I need to replace the compressor. Since the compressor needs to be changed, they also mentioned the drier and the orifice tube as well. Parts and labor...$833.95.
#3
From the drawing it looks to be a thermal switch inside the clutch. You can test the voltage yourself.
If you get 12v coming out of pin 5 on relay 6 then the relay is working. You should then have 12v on the RG coloured wire going into the compressor clutch. If you don't get it coming out the switch in the compressor clutch is still open.
There is no valves that affect this operation
You could try cleaning the connections, but failing any other advice you are looking at a new one..
If you get 12v coming out of pin 5 on relay 6 then the relay is working. You should then have 12v on the RG coloured wire going into the compressor clutch. If you don't get it coming out the switch in the compressor clutch is still open.
There is no valves that affect this operation
You could try cleaning the connections, but failing any other advice you are looking at a new one..
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chiefshb (08-26-2013)
#4
There's a refrigerant pressure sensor behind the front right front wheel arch liner that cuts the compressor at 30 bar and re-engages it at 16 bar (every 7 secs on average)
The compressor will also fail to run if the cabin blower fan is not running or if the coolant temperature is excessive.
A low gas charge will also cause the the compressor not to cut in because the evaporator temperature sensor will detect the reduced performance.
Don't know how your specialist decided on a new compressor, but there's a number of Bxxxx codes associated with the A/C system that any Jaguar dealer should be able to read to narrow the problem down.
The compressor will also fail to run if the cabin blower fan is not running or if the coolant temperature is excessive.
A low gas charge will also cause the the compressor not to cut in because the evaporator temperature sensor will detect the reduced performance.
Don't know how your specialist decided on a new compressor, but there's a number of Bxxxx codes associated with the A/C system that any Jaguar dealer should be able to read to narrow the problem down.
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chiefshb (08-26-2013)
#5
Well...I spent the day flushing the A/C lines, changing the compressor, drier, and oriphis tube filter...also changed the oil while I was there. Got the car back together and vacuumed the system. Went to add freon...leak!! It seems I either busted the seam on the low side elbow (not sure what it's called, but the elbow with the fitment to fill with freon) while taking off the drier, or it just gave out. Either way, I now need to fix and/or replace the line.
Has anyone ever used JB Weld on this seam? Also, the main wire harness is right there to add to the fun of getting to the line. Are there any negative effects that will occur if I unplug that harness while working on this line?
Any info is always appreciated.
Has anyone ever used JB Weld on this seam? Also, the main wire harness is right there to add to the fun of getting to the line. Are there any negative effects that will occur if I unplug that harness while working on this line?
Any info is always appreciated.
#6
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#8
My apologies, Mark. But since you have experience with the A/C. I now have the compressor operating, but the low-pressure tubing is still warm to the touch, and the larger high-pressure tube is very hot. The cabin air is barely chilled set at manual and full cold. The right side of the dryer and tubing is cold with condensation. (LHD)
Your thoughts are appreciated. I think I got to this forum following a thread you may have posted elsewhere.
Thanks,
Jerry
Your thoughts are appreciated. I think I got to this forum following a thread you may have posted elsewhere.
Thanks,
Jerry
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Spikepaga (06-25-2024)
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