AC low and high pressure ports
#1
AC low and high pressure ports
Hey, so i bought an el cheapo 134a manafold kit from harbor freight (similar to this one AC Gauges - Save on this AC Manifold Gauge Set )
but the high and low side fittings are different than the connections. the cap say they are a M8 and M10 , and the schrader from the hoses do not fit. Is there an adapter that can be used from the schrader to the high and low side?
but the high and low side fittings are different than the connections. the cap say they are a M8 and M10 , and the schrader from the hoses do not fit. Is there an adapter that can be used from the schrader to the high and low side?
#3
#4
http://webcache.googleusercontent.co...&ct=clnk&gl=us
that may be of help
I have hot air at any setting and all the time...I'm checking the heater valve in the morning
that may be of help
I have hot air at any setting and all the time...I'm checking the heater valve in the morning
#5
I took my Harbor Freight guage set back. The low side manifold valve leaked constantly, couldn't shut it off completely. I get the replacement home and the high side fitting on the manifold is screwed in, no kidding, one and a half turns. I took it out and looked. The hole for it is not threaded. So it'll go back tomorrow.
#6
#7
If the clutch is engaged and turning and you have no pressure difference, then yes, your compressor is toast...
During your replacement, make sure to purge the entire system of any old oils (this can be a bit of a chore, but needed or you'll ruin the new compressor..they sell flushing agents at most refrigeration wholesale places)...this will also clean out crap that may have come from the compressor..You may have to remove the expansion device (fixed orifice) to clean out the evaperator.
Do you have a vacuum pump?..you'll need one of those too.
During your replacement, make sure to purge the entire system of any old oils (this can be a bit of a chore, but needed or you'll ruin the new compressor..they sell flushing agents at most refrigeration wholesale places)...this will also clean out crap that may have come from the compressor..You may have to remove the expansion device (fixed orifice) to clean out the evaperator.
Do you have a vacuum pump?..you'll need one of those too.
Last edited by DPK; 04-30-2013 at 01:12 PM.
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#8
Oh joy! My compressor is in next day air...hot air in vents, rust and a bit of oil visible on the clutch, no pressure at all,,, hoping its only the compressor...JTIS seems to be very detailed on everything! Hoping that I don't have to manufacture a tensioner tool, but the wellder is on standby...hoping to get some flushing agent at a local autozone or orileys or napa
#9
I did whole smash while I had the engine out. New compressor, new accumulator, new orifice tube, flushed out the system, replaced all the o-rings... too bad it's leaking. I'll try to find out where this weekend.
If you're replacing the compressor cause it's failed, I can almost guarantee you that the orifice tube inlet screen is coated in crap, and needs to be replaced. You'll need to swap the accumulator, too. It's up in the forward part of the right front fender, while the spring lock fitting is at the upper back end of the right front fender. You might find some helpful pictures and text here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...c-drier-87403/
If you're replacing the compressor cause it's failed, I can almost guarantee you that the orifice tube inlet screen is coated in crap, and needs to be replaced. You'll need to swap the accumulator, too. It's up in the forward part of the right front fender, while the spring lock fitting is at the upper back end of the right front fender. You might find some helpful pictures and text here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...c-drier-87403/
#11
I did whole smash while I had the engine out. New compressor, new accumulator, new orifice tube, flushed out the system, replaced all the o-rings... too bad it's leaking. I'll try to find out where this weekend.
If you're replacing the compressor cause it's failed, I can almost guarantee you that the orifice tube inlet screen is coated in crap, and needs to be replaced. You'll need to swap the accumulator, too. It's up in the forward part of the right front fender, while the spring lock fitting is at the upper back end of the right front fender. You might find some helpful pictures and text here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...c-drier-87403/
If you're replacing the compressor cause it's failed, I can almost guarantee you that the orifice tube inlet screen is coated in crap, and needs to be replaced. You'll need to swap the accumulator, too. It's up in the forward part of the right front fender, while the spring lock fitting is at the upper back end of the right front fender. You might find some helpful pictures and text here: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...c-drier-87403/
#12
I should get my parts today...after looking at many different compressors, I found that one company sold the hole kit and kabootle and a fair price for a "new" compressor, accumulator, filter, oil, 2002 2004 Jaguar x Type A C AC Compressor Kit | eBay after calling them they discounted it even more and the shipping also.
I will remove the parts today, and perhaps video the process.
I will remove the parts today, and perhaps video the process.
#13
Once you get the whole system back together..Pressure test it for leaks (150psi) with the dry nitrogen you said you had..Look for leaks at all the connection with bubble soap solution..you can use the kid's bubble toy stuff or get some at a refrigeration wholesale house.
I teach the EPA certification for the sections 609 (MVAC) and 608 (Universal)
Once you proven all the leaks are found or non existing...Bleed off the nitrogen pressure to 0 psi and then put on the vacuum pump and suck both sides of the system down for about 30 minutes..close of both sides of the manifold guage...then put in some fresh nitrogen again and be sure to purge the center hose of any air that you removed from the vacuum pump to the manifold gauge.open both sides of manifold guage...Put in enough nitrogen to bring the presuure up to 2 to 3 psi, then let it out and connect to the vacuum pump again and repeat this process two more times before charging..
Let me add as a reminder..ALWAYS purge the hose that is free to the air before letting it into the system...While beginning to charge, use the refrigerant to purge any air from the hose.
Good luck
I teach the EPA certification for the sections 609 (MVAC) and 608 (Universal)
Once you proven all the leaks are found or non existing...Bleed off the nitrogen pressure to 0 psi and then put on the vacuum pump and suck both sides of the system down for about 30 minutes..close of both sides of the manifold guage...then put in some fresh nitrogen again and be sure to purge the center hose of any air that you removed from the vacuum pump to the manifold gauge.open both sides of manifold guage...Put in enough nitrogen to bring the presuure up to 2 to 3 psi, then let it out and connect to the vacuum pump again and repeat this process two more times before charging..
Let me add as a reminder..ALWAYS purge the hose that is free to the air before letting it into the system...While beginning to charge, use the refrigerant to purge any air from the hose.
Good luck
Last edited by DPK; 05-02-2013 at 02:06 PM.
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Oakland_dave (05-02-2013)
#14
DPK,
I haven't used Nitrogen before. Does the cycling back and forth from Nitrogen to vacuum allow the desiccant in the accumulator to give up any water it's holding onto?
What I have done is pull vacuum and let it sit 30 minutes, then pull vacuum again and let it sit overnight, and finally pull vacuum again in the morning. I think the boiling point of water at vacuum of something like 28 or 29 in Hg is about 70 deg F which is any summer night in the south.
I haven't used Nitrogen before. Does the cycling back and forth from Nitrogen to vacuum allow the desiccant in the accumulator to give up any water it's holding onto?
What I have done is pull vacuum and let it sit 30 minutes, then pull vacuum again and let it sit overnight, and finally pull vacuum again in the morning. I think the boiling point of water at vacuum of something like 28 or 29 in Hg is about 70 deg F which is any summer night in the south.
#15
DPK,
I haven't used Nitrogen before. Does the cycling back and forth from Nitrogen to vacuum allow the desiccant in the accumulator to give up any water it's holding onto? YES!
What I have done is pull vacuum and let it sit 30 minutes, then pull vacuum again and let it sit overnight, and finally pull vacuum again in the morning. I think the boiling point of water at vacuum of something like 28 or 29 in Hg is about 70 deg F which is any summer night in the south.
I haven't used Nitrogen before. Does the cycling back and forth from Nitrogen to vacuum allow the desiccant in the accumulator to give up any water it's holding onto? YES!
What I have done is pull vacuum and let it sit 30 minutes, then pull vacuum again and let it sit overnight, and finally pull vacuum again in the morning. I think the boiling point of water at vacuum of something like 28 or 29 in Hg is about 70 deg F which is any summer night in the south.
Last edited by DPK; 05-02-2013 at 11:21 AM.
#16
Yeah, but I already have vacuum. Nitrogen, I'd have to buy. LOL. The vacuum is cheap too because my father made the vacuum pump out of an old refrigeration compressor and washing machine motor decades ago. The compressor is a Kelvinator if that gives any clue. I'll post a pic here next time I drag it out, which might be this weekend. It looks like something your dad would make, if your dad was Red Green.
#17
I don't want to discourage you, but that old fashioned Vacuum pump made from an antique refrigerator compressor will not do the job I'm afraid..A Refrigeration compressor of even today's standards can only pull a vacuum of no more than 17" to 18" of Vac hg at best...you need a minimum vacuum to properly evacuate of 28" of Vac hg...You just won't get that with an old refrigeration compressor....
If your dear old Dad's can pull better than 28", then your good to go..try it first before you actually need it.
If your dear old Dad's can pull better than 28", then your good to go..try it first before you actually need it.
Last edited by DPK; 05-02-2013 at 08:03 PM.
#20
special couplings
I am trying to recharge my AC for a 2003 Jaguar X type too, but somehow the connectors do not fit. I purchase the canister with an atachment hose and coupling.
In one of the other postings there is a note that "Special couplings" are needed. Did you guye hear anything about special couplings?
Thanks,
In one of the other postings there is a note that "Special couplings" are needed. Did you guye hear anything about special couplings?
Thanks,