Access to boot/trunk.
#1
05-13-2017, 05:44 PM
Access to boot/trunk.
I have seen much discussion with regard to getting access to the boot.
A serious design fault on the X Type Jaguar is the lack of access to the boot (or as our American friends say the trunk) in the event of a flat battery, failure of the lock solenoid mechanism, electrical fault to the solenoid or accidently locking your keys in the boot. Also (on UK cars at least) there is no access to the boot from behind the rear seats.
There are a few videos on u-tube showing people ripping out the arm rests/seat backs and attacking the car with an electric saw to gain entry into the boot.
And even if you did gain access to the boot by, for example breaking the rear light assembly (another method commonly discussed), there is no manual release (cars for the USA markets had a pull release in the “trunk” space).
There is an excellent modification on the forum that uses a cable tie attached to the lock mechanism that will release the lock when pulled, but the number plate must be removed to access the cable tie.
Cars from the UK predominantly have number plates fastened by self-tapping screws or double sided trim tape, both of which can be difficult and time consuming to remove in an emergency.
The preferred method of fixing number plates in Malta is a plastic number plate “surround” which is screwed/ trim taped (or both), with the plate being mounted within the surround….not a few minute job to remove.
I therefore wanted a more convenient and quicker way of providing emergency boot access with the minimum of tools and came up with this idea………………..
To cut a long story short, having removed the plastic lock cover screws and cover and the lock with the 3 mounting screws, the 2 screws which secure the plastic pull handle, removing 1 carpet fixing plastic stud and pulling back the carpet, it is easy to see how the mechanism operates. I tied a wire (about 24 inches long, to the metal part which opens the lock when the button is pressed (the same part that the cable tie is attached to in the modification). I then remove the right hand side number plate light lens and bulb. I then drilled a hole to the left of the lamp holder assembly and superglued a short piece of plastic tube (the type used for screen washer fluid) in the hole just drilled (about an inch long). I then drilled another hole to the underside of the boot, slightly to the left of the hole which the carpet stud attaches to, and again superglued a short piece of plastic tubing into the hole. I then passed the wire through the tube into the boot cavity, then into the tube in the number plate light. I re fixed the lock to the boot with the 3 screws.
Time to test. Keeping the boot open and manually clicking the lock to the locked position, giving the wire a tug and seeing if the lock manually operates open.
The plastic tube was fitted (after experimentation) to stop the wire snagging on the boot metal work.
Having got the lock to operate every time, I closed the boot and tried again a few times. All now OK I re-fitted the carpet and the plastic pull handle and the lock cover. I cut the wire leaving about 6 inches of cable hanging from the number plate light, and to stop it falling back through the tube and into the boot, fitted a ring crimp on the end of the wire. All that remained was to test it once again with the boot closed. I pushed the excess wire through the plastic tube back into the boot, tucked the crimp neatly within the light fitting and re- fitted the bulb and lens.
I the event of solenoid failure etc, it is now very easy and quick to remove the plastic lens with a small coin, screwdriver, penknife, nail file or even your fingernails to gain access to the wire.
Hope this helps anyone.
Alan.
A serious design fault on the X Type Jaguar is the lack of access to the boot (or as our American friends say the trunk) in the event of a flat battery, failure of the lock solenoid mechanism, electrical fault to the solenoid or accidently locking your keys in the boot. Also (on UK cars at least) there is no access to the boot from behind the rear seats.
There are a few videos on u-tube showing people ripping out the arm rests/seat backs and attacking the car with an electric saw to gain entry into the boot.
And even if you did gain access to the boot by, for example breaking the rear light assembly (another method commonly discussed), there is no manual release (cars for the USA markets had a pull release in the “trunk” space).
There is an excellent modification on the forum that uses a cable tie attached to the lock mechanism that will release the lock when pulled, but the number plate must be removed to access the cable tie.
Cars from the UK predominantly have number plates fastened by self-tapping screws or double sided trim tape, both of which can be difficult and time consuming to remove in an emergency.
The preferred method of fixing number plates in Malta is a plastic number plate “surround” which is screwed/ trim taped (or both), with the plate being mounted within the surround….not a few minute job to remove.
I therefore wanted a more convenient and quicker way of providing emergency boot access with the minimum of tools and came up with this idea………………..
To cut a long story short, having removed the plastic lock cover screws and cover and the lock with the 3 mounting screws, the 2 screws which secure the plastic pull handle, removing 1 carpet fixing plastic stud and pulling back the carpet, it is easy to see how the mechanism operates. I tied a wire (about 24 inches long, to the metal part which opens the lock when the button is pressed (the same part that the cable tie is attached to in the modification). I then remove the right hand side number plate light lens and bulb. I then drilled a hole to the left of the lamp holder assembly and superglued a short piece of plastic tube (the type used for screen washer fluid) in the hole just drilled (about an inch long). I then drilled another hole to the underside of the boot, slightly to the left of the hole which the carpet stud attaches to, and again superglued a short piece of plastic tubing into the hole. I then passed the wire through the tube into the boot cavity, then into the tube in the number plate light. I re fixed the lock to the boot with the 3 screws.
Time to test. Keeping the boot open and manually clicking the lock to the locked position, giving the wire a tug and seeing if the lock manually operates open.
The plastic tube was fitted (after experimentation) to stop the wire snagging on the boot metal work.
Having got the lock to operate every time, I closed the boot and tried again a few times. All now OK I re-fitted the carpet and the plastic pull handle and the lock cover. I cut the wire leaving about 6 inches of cable hanging from the number plate light, and to stop it falling back through the tube and into the boot, fitted a ring crimp on the end of the wire. All that remained was to test it once again with the boot closed. I pushed the excess wire through the plastic tube back into the boot, tucked the crimp neatly within the light fitting and re- fitted the bulb and lens.
I the event of solenoid failure etc, it is now very easy and quick to remove the plastic lens with a small coin, screwdriver, penknife, nail file or even your fingernails to gain access to the wire.
Hope this helps anyone.
Alan.
The following 2 users liked this post by ABR:
motorcarman (05-14-2017),
wa3ra (05-17-2017)
#3
05-14-2017, 09:08 AM
When I went to NP02 (New Product 2002) training for the newly released X400 we asked about the lack of emergency entrance into the boot and were told that the most cost effective way in was to drill or break out the left tail lamp assy.
I actually had to do this when the latch failed on a customer car. The entire shop crew came over to watch me use a holesaw to the left tail lamp assy and break out plastic chunks to gain access to the release handle or rear seat release.
New tail lamp and boot lid latch, the car was ready to go.
I like the idea of a cable release routed to the outside somewhere.
bob
I actually had to do this when the latch failed on a customer car. The entire shop crew came over to watch me use a holesaw to the left tail lamp assy and break out plastic chunks to gain access to the release handle or rear seat release.
New tail lamp and boot lid latch, the car was ready to go.
I like the idea of a cable release routed to the outside somewhere.
bob
#4
05-14-2017, 03:55 PM
UK cars are not fitted with the trunk release strap inside the trunk, so breaking in via the rear lamp or rear seats gets you nowhere.
This link gives the details of where to drill behind the number plate to operate the lock
I Can't Open my Boot
To save having to do that I devised the modification mentioned above and detailed here for those who might like an alternative.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...mergency+trunk.
This link gives the details of where to drill behind the number plate to operate the lock
I Can't Open my Boot
To save having to do that I devised the modification mentioned above and detailed here for those who might like an alternative.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...mergency+trunk.
#5
05-14-2017, 09:00 PM
#6
05-15-2017, 10:22 AM
Hi Dunks.
Thanks for your comments.
As our cars are getting older, the possibility of failure to components or wiring gets more realistic.The excellent modification using a cable tie by astromorg will work well but I wanted a more simple way of gaining access to the boot without the trouble of having to remove the number plate. If you need more info on how I did this please let me know.
Alan.
Thanks for your comments.
As our cars are getting older, the possibility of failure to components or wiring gets more realistic.The excellent modification using a cable tie by astromorg will work well but I wanted a more simple way of gaining access to the boot without the trouble of having to remove the number plate. If you need more info on how I did this please let me know.
Alan.
#7
05-15-2017, 11:05 AM
Hi Bob.
Thanks for your comments.
Cars for the UK market were not fitted with the emergency cord, so breaking into the trunk via the rear light will not help. My car does not have the rear seat pull down arm rest with the "ski hatch" or drop down rear seats, so even removing the rear seat back does not get you into the boot.
I did think about other ways to accomplish an emergency boot access.....
1. A cable to the fuel filler aperture area similar to the system that already operates the filler cap release. I looked at the possibility of running an inner and outer cable, fixed to the part where I attached my wire to, and run to the fuel filler aperture area, as this is lockable. A cable similar to the bonnet pull cable on a Mark 2 Jaguar came to mind as it has a plastic pull handle affixed to end of the inner cable. However the cable would have to run round the hinge and would have the equivalent of 3 right angles in it which might make it difficult to operate. Also there is not much room in the fuel filler aperture and I was a little worried that drilling a hole for the cable into the fuel aperture might induce fumes into the boot and into the car.
2. A key locking cable pull mechanism. Utilising an emergency garage door access lock that is fixed to the garage door with a cable to the motor release mechanism, when unlocked, pulls out of its aperture allowing you to pull the cable. Looking at the rear "Jaguar" chrome plinth there is enough room for this type of lock to be fitted but the same problems of too many right angles would make the cable difficult to operate.
3. If I had number plates that simply affix with 2 screws as UK style, using the cable tie method but fixing the number plate not with screws but with the incredibly strong flat, round rare earth magnets.
4. As above, but, after removing the lock mechanism, drilling a 20mm hole behind the number plate directly over the mechanism and covering with a rubber domed grommet.
By removing the number plate and pulling off the grommet you could push the operating lever with your finger to open the boot.
But then I thought why make things complicated ??, after all no one will ever know about this cable accessible by removing the number plate lens.
If anyone has other ideas, I would like to hear about them.
Alan.
Thanks for your comments.
Cars for the UK market were not fitted with the emergency cord, so breaking into the trunk via the rear light will not help. My car does not have the rear seat pull down arm rest with the "ski hatch" or drop down rear seats, so even removing the rear seat back does not get you into the boot.
I did think about other ways to accomplish an emergency boot access.....
1. A cable to the fuel filler aperture area similar to the system that already operates the filler cap release. I looked at the possibility of running an inner and outer cable, fixed to the part where I attached my wire to, and run to the fuel filler aperture area, as this is lockable. A cable similar to the bonnet pull cable on a Mark 2 Jaguar came to mind as it has a plastic pull handle affixed to end of the inner cable. However the cable would have to run round the hinge and would have the equivalent of 3 right angles in it which might make it difficult to operate. Also there is not much room in the fuel filler aperture and I was a little worried that drilling a hole for the cable into the fuel aperture might induce fumes into the boot and into the car.
2. A key locking cable pull mechanism. Utilising an emergency garage door access lock that is fixed to the garage door with a cable to the motor release mechanism, when unlocked, pulls out of its aperture allowing you to pull the cable. Looking at the rear "Jaguar" chrome plinth there is enough room for this type of lock to be fitted but the same problems of too many right angles would make the cable difficult to operate.
3. If I had number plates that simply affix with 2 screws as UK style, using the cable tie method but fixing the number plate not with screws but with the incredibly strong flat, round rare earth magnets.
4. As above, but, after removing the lock mechanism, drilling a 20mm hole behind the number plate directly over the mechanism and covering with a rubber domed grommet.
By removing the number plate and pulling off the grommet you could push the operating lever with your finger to open the boot.
But then I thought why make things complicated ??, after all no one will ever know about this cable accessible by removing the number plate lens.
If anyone has other ideas, I would like to hear about them.
Alan.
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#8
05-15-2017, 11:15 AM
Hi astromog.
Your modification was, of course, the excellent modification I referred to, and I think would certainly have used if my number plates were easy to remove. As I said the preferred method used in Malta is to affix the plates in a plastic surround. If I removed this surround, certainly on my car to fix the plates directly to the boot, it would unfortunately leave several holes that would be seen and would need body shop work to fix.
This was another way I came up with to accomplish this modification.
Kindest regards.
Alan
Your modification was, of course, the excellent modification I referred to, and I think would certainly have used if my number plates were easy to remove. As I said the preferred method used in Malta is to affix the plates in a plastic surround. If I removed this surround, certainly on my car to fix the plates directly to the boot, it would unfortunately leave several holes that would be seen and would need body shop work to fix.
This was another way I came up with to accomplish this modification.
Kindest regards.
Alan
#9
05-15-2017, 11:20 AM
#10
05-17-2017, 11:04 AM
Senior Member
Note that the release latch itself is still present in the UK spec cars; all that is missing is the release strap, so this solution WILL work.
My solution was a bit more unusual. Note that it will NOT work for a failed solenoid.
I simply ran a pair of wire leads to an undisclosed location, with Anderson Power-Pole connections. One set is for the trunk, the second for one of the doors. A conveniently stashed Li-ion battery pack with matching leads simply connected to either connector to pop the solenoid. A 9-v battery can sub for the battery pack, but since I always have a two-way, I always have a battery.
My solution was a bit more unusual. Note that it will NOT work for a failed solenoid.
I simply ran a pair of wire leads to an undisclosed location, with Anderson Power-Pole connections. One set is for the trunk, the second for one of the doors. A conveniently stashed Li-ion battery pack with matching leads simply connected to either connector to pop the solenoid. A 9-v battery can sub for the battery pack, but since I always have a two-way, I always have a battery.