Nneed to replace alternator /urgently......2002 auto 2.5
based in canada

would this be suitable?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...generator,2412

 

I would go wit hthe top one by Bosch. That should give you a quality part. Granted, I would be looking at a few other things before replacing the alterntaor. Normally on this car, the alternator is good and doesn't fail. Many other things make it seem like it is the alternator.

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...rching-261475/

 

[QUOTE=Thermo;2552165]I would go wit hthe top one by Bosch. That should give you a quality part. Granted, I would be looking at a few other things before replacing the alterntaor. Normally on this car, the alternator is good and doesn't fail. Many other things make it seem like it is the alternator.[/QUOTE]

hi Thermo
so sevice shop installed a Bosch /test drived ect....i pick up drive 3 miles and engine light comes on.....and riding rough
take it back to shop.....no red light initially but then came back on........shop going to order a replacment for monday

drove car home.redlight on / rough driving...........get home park / have a cool one....go back to car / started no red light~
shall drive it early tomorrow and tesat again

Re your original response "/Granted, I would be looking at a few other things before replacing the alterntaor. Normally on this car, the alternator is good and doesn't fail. Many other things make it seem like it is the alternator.'

What would you be checking before changing alternator?........BATTREY CONECTION AND.............??????

QUESTION....shop had car for 2 days trying a couple of alternators....could they have partially drained the battery? {BATTERY 2 YEARS OLD}




[/QUOTE]

 

[QUOTE=Thermo;2552165]I would go wit hthe top one by Bosch. That should give you a quality part. Granted, I would be looking at a few other things before replacing the alterntaor. Normally on this car, the alternator is good and doesn't fail. Many other things make it seem like it is the alternator.[/QUOTE]

hi Thermo
so sevice shop installed a Bosch /test drived ect....i pick up drive 3 miles and engine light comes on.....and riding rough
take it back to shop.....no red light initially but then came back on........shop going to order a replacment for monday

drove car home.redlight on / rough driving...........get home park / have a cool one....go back to car / started no red light~
shall drive it early tomorrow and tesat again

Re your original response "/Granted, I would be looking at a few other things before replacing the alterntaor. Normally on this car, the alternator is good and doesn't fail. Many other things make it seem like it is the alternator.'

What would you be checking before changing alternator?........BATTREY CONECTION AND.............??????

QUESTION....shop had car for 2 days trying a couple of alternators....could they have partially drained the battery? {BATTERY 2 YEARS OLD}

 

Without some explanation of why you assumed you needed an alternator replacement (i.e. codes, lights on, etc.) it's hard to give you advice.

 

thanks.................engine light on when driving home........then would not start

replaced alternator.. but battery light on again /DRIVING ROUGH.....as in my post .......

any directions /thoughts apreciated ....thanks in advance

 

I CAN read what happened after you took it to the shop. What made you think you needed a replacement PRIOR to taking it in? And "red light" on means what? Oil light? PATS light? Battery light? MIL light? Specifics are key to getting good guidance.

 

thanks for your help
battery light went on and now after an alternator change coming on again?......
does the car computor sytem have to ajust to a new alternator

 

do alternatores have to be broken in?
Break In Start up and run vehicle just above idle, let it run about 10 minutes with minimal electrical load, slowly warming up the alternator and seating the brushes. Then shut the vehicle off and let the alternator cool for about 15 minutes. Run vehicle again for another 10 to 15 minutes, Turn on heater/AC blower etc. Stop and let the alternator cool. Check battery voltage to make sure it’s above 12.4V. Repeat steps 2 and 3 about three or four times. After several cycles of heating and cooling, your alternator is ready for the road.

 

harry, when you get the car back, I want you to try something for me. As soon as you get it, put the car on a charger and get the battery up to 100%. This will be evident by the multimeter you are going to use reading 12.6 VDC when you touch the leads of the multimeter to the lead posts (not the battery terminals) with all doors shut and the car off. Now, with the help of a second person, have them attempt to start the car (ensure all electrical stuff is turned off). As the car is being started (motor turns or not, does not matter), is the battery reading between 11.0 and 12.0 VDC? If yes, then we know your battery is good. If reading less than 11.0 VDC, then you probably need a new battery. If reading above 12.0 VDC, then we have another issue. If the vehicle will not start, then keep cranking the car for about 30 seconds. After the 30 second crank, stop cranking and then cup your hand OVER!!!!!!! each battery terminal. The battery terminal should be roughly the same temp as the surrounding metal of the car. If you have a terminal that you can tell is warmer, then you have a bad battery cable. Replace the cable and see what you have then. It is very possible that you may have 2 bad cables.

If the car starts, great, we atleast know that odds are, you have decent cables, maybe not great cables, but we will prove this in just a minute. With the multimeter still on the terminals, did the multimeter jump up to around 13.7 to 14.4 VDC? If yes, then your alternator is performing like it should. Now, with the engine running and the alternator appearing to be functioning, turn on the seat heaters, rear defroster, dash fan on high, headlights, and running lights. Let the car sit like this at idle for five minutes. During this time, you cna use the multimeter and measure the voltage across the battery, it should remain above 13.2 VDC (preferrably up at 13.7 VDC). After the 5 minutes, turn off the electrical components and stop the engine. Again, cup your hand OVER!!!!!!! the battery terminals. If you have 1 or both that are hot (warmer than the surrounding metal of the car), then you have a bad battery cable. replace.

If you are still having issues at this point, let me know. I will give you a few more checks to do. By chance, I see you live in Richmond, would that be Richmond VA by chance? If so, I am going to be there on the 14th. I can possibly stop by and give the car a once over.

 

Thermo.....shall follow your suggestion if problem continues.....this morning at 5 am .i followed someone advice to" break in

a new alternator!.a new one to me........and it seems to have worked!.../similarities to yor excellent raised pointsCables and Connections Before running your New Alternator, Clean All the Cables and Connections. The ground cable is most overlooked yet very important. Not only should the ground and positive connection at the battery be cleaned. The ground connection at the motor should be removed, cleaned and when reinstalling you should add a 12 AWG, or larger wire from this ground connection to the back or base of the alternator. Alternators utilize the rear case of the alternator for the Bridge Rectifier Ground contact. Adding the extra ground connection to the rear housing that the rectifier is connected to will improve the flow of positive and negative energy from the alternator to the battery. Break In Start up and run vehicle just above idle, let it run about 10 minutes with minimal electrical load, slowly warming up the alternator and seating the brushes. Then shut the vehicle off and let the alternator cool for about 15 minutes. Run vehicle again for another 10 to 15 minutes, Turn on heater/AC blower etc. Stop and let the alternator cool. Check battery voltage to make sure it’s above 12.4V. Repeat steps 2 and 3 about three or four times. After several cycles of heating and cooling, your alternator is ready for the road.

 

Harry, there is no need to break in an alternator. yes, don't put a new one in and slam it with full load. But, putting in a new alternator, all you need to do is run the car normally and keep the electrical loads reasonable.

Odds are, you have a battery cable that is going. Doing the cleaning may have giving you a bit more time, but it will show itself again here shortly. Not wishing you any ill. But, electrical problems do not go away, they will come back.

 

thanks thermo.you still driving to seattle this year?

 

It's always best to have an automotive electrical specialist repair the existing alternator than to purchase one from a parts house.

The issue with the battery charge warning icon staying on even with the 'new' alternator is due to it having different specifications that the one fitted by Jaguar.

 

red light icon staying on after "new alternator installed"..............had not heard of this / thank you

REF...... It's always best to have an automotive electrical specialist repair the existing alternator than to purchase one from a parts house. The issue with the battery charge warning icon staying on even with the 'new' alternator.. is due to it having different specifications that the one fitted by Jaguar..........my replacement was a BOCHT{sic}

 

Harry, i was back in Seattle in June. Sorry that I missed you.

 

Correct alternator part number =

C2S3710

But I really doubt it is/was your problem.
I vote for failing battery cable (s).