Hello all, good afternoon. I'll get right down to it.
I have a very well maintained Xtype AWD 3.0
23k miles. I personally change all fluids regularly. I dont buy cheap parts. Haha.
Anyway so this is my issue.
Check engine light. Code reader p0171/p0174
After doing major research and also using all data.
I have replaced the Imt-O rings.
Replaced the Upper and lower intake gaskets from felpro
Replaced brake booster line.
Checked for leaks, smoke tested, starter fluid check.
Checked all hoses. 0 leaks in the system.

Other related issues maybe. Air conditioner is on the frits..
Drive side blows hot, passenger side blows cool.. then fluctuates and blows warm. When the AC is on the Rpms surge up and down at idle between 400 and 900 ish. No stalling.

I noticed the Mil lite only comes on after about 150 miles, after reset and Specifically when I'm merging on to a freeway from the on ramp as my RPMs increase over 3k then it comes on. But not constantly.. only after 150 mile reset.

I am using a K & N but that shouldn't affect airflow.
Maybe o2 Sensor's cant be the cat it's an old car but not many miles on it.

Any help please would be appreciated..

Thinking bad Injectors.. sigh

Jayson
My car.

 

Check the PCV hose to make sure it is not cracked. If it is the original smooth one chances are it would need to be replaced anyway. A couple years after the model was introduced they came out with a beefier hose that lasts.

I would also check the ribbed hose going inti the intake to make sure it is tight or not cracked. The codes you referenced are pretty much always related to a vacuum leak.

 

Jayson, remove the intake tube from the throttlebody and then using a wetted rag (wetted with carb cleaner), wipe out the inside of the throttle body. If it is not silver, wipe till it is gone. Make sure to also wipe the edge of the center disk (the butterfly valve). Then see what you have. You can also spray some carb cleaner through the throttle body. If you do this, it is possible to "flood" the car out. If this is the case, you simply need to depress the gas pedal as far as it will go when attempting to start the car. After a few seconds, you can ease off the gas pedal and the motor should start. By depressing the gas pedal all the way, this is telling the ECU that the car is flooded and not to trigger the fuel injectors. As you come off the gas, this wll trigger the injectors to start working again.

Lets see what you have after this.

 

Air conditioning is light on charge, hence symptoms such as idling fluctuations and hot/cold difference between left and right sides.

When was the K and N filter last cleaned/oiled? Has the MAF been oil contaminated and under-reading.

 

Thanks guys for the help.

So when the intake was off for the spark plugs.. I cleaned out the intake using a can of carb choke cleaner.
" I did what you said and cleaned the Throttle body exceptionally well

I did replace the pcv hose to the new ribbed one and checked again no cracks.

I did install all the gaskets upper and lower after cleaning the area correctly. I didnt use silicone to lube on the new gaskets before putting them back in, but that shouldn't be an issue. I do understand lubing the gaskets prevent future cracks, acts as a good matting surface but Alldata didnt say too.

I ohm tested the MAF it's in spec also volt tested the MAF plug. In spec.

My pcv valve is spitting a little bit of oil but it's working as intended. Ball rattles maybe a good cleaning in my dunk take will help it. " cleaned it well " put it back on

RESET check engine light. I will let you know soon. Light comes on after 150 miles. If it's not fixed.
Also ALLData in the TSB for this code said to suspect bad fuel Injectors.. if theres no air leaks found.

I will update soon. Please respond if anyone else has advice.
Jayson

Before cleaning.

After cleaning.

 

As often posted, fuel trims will tell you whether you have an air leak (but a smoke test may not).

 

I had those codes on my 06 Range Rover a couple years ago. Replaced the maf sensor with one from Autozone. It would run for a few miles then the code would come back. After flailing around for quite a while watching the short and long term fuel trims with a reader, I read on the Range Rover forum that the RR software was very particular about the tolerances on the maf sensors and aftermarket sensors would not work. It just so happened that my 07' X type had the exact same factory maf sensor as my RR. I pulled off the sensor and plugged into my RR and it works perfect. I put the aftermarket maf sensor on the X type and it didn't care, it runs perfect too.

You might look into a new MAF to get rid of those codes.

MH

 

I have an aftermarket MAF I'm willing to spend the money on a Bosh MAF if needed. But the MAf was in spec on the voltmeter.

*UPDATE- after all the reccomended cleaning I did today reset the light. Drove to 711. Light came back on. Granted I was running the AIR but again I know my AC is going out.

Same codes p0174 p0171

Someone said a Faulty AC will turn the MIL light on and produce the same codes ? A few posts up, I wonder if this is the problem
Please chime in for more help fixing this.. at the end of all this I wouldn't mind sending someone a box of snacks.
Thanks
Jayson, California






Info at idle engine was at temp

 

Did you replace the IMT rings? As stated above, having both codes is 99.9999% a vacuum leak(s). I did have a persistent single code (after having both), having checked every possible vacuum leak and finding none, I replaced my MAF and it's been clear since.

Faulty A/C throwing fuel trim codes? Come on now..........

 

Use the fuel trims properly!! I have lost count of the number of times this has been posted! SEARCH is the answer to so many things.

 

Yes IMT rings replaced. Upper and lower gaskets, new brake booster, new ribbed hose. I even added gasket maker to the tops of the inlet holes on the intake where the brake booster attaches too. I'm pulling my hair out.
If I do have a leak.. if I do. I cant physically see anything I'll tear it all apart again and check.
Alldata said it could be faulty O2 Sensor's, bad Injectors.
Jayson
I will also study the fuel trim data. Sigh.. such a nice car with low miles to be having these issues.

If I replaced all the gaskets and hoses as stated above I just dont get where the extra air, or leaking air could be coming from ..makes 0 sence.

GAH help I just did all that work and now I was driving two miles from my house and the car started sputtering.. two new codes! WTF this car only as 23k miles damn it. Help me please.

P1313 and now P0301 what is going on 😪
Advice anyone thanks
Now it's another code p1316 .. it's like my car us falling apart.

 

So I took apart the intake again. My coils look good no issues not sure if I should test them.
My spark plugs look perfect bosh 8103. I double check the gap at 51 ish 52. I looked down inside the spark plug holes the top of the pistons look dark but no damage. The job was done correctly..

Thermo- can you help of give advice ..thanks
Also anyone else..

Pics here
What to do .. what to do
reassemble and try again?

 

Since the throttlebody cleaning didn't help, I would be looking at replacing and/or cleaning the MAF sensor. After that, atleast for the erratic idle problem, you are looking at having to replace the throttlebody. It is a known issue that the brushes inside the throttle body motor will shorten over time and that results in erratic throttle operation. Unfortunately, to access the motor, you need some pretty special bits to access stuff. I seem to remember you need a 5 point torx bit (not a 6 point, a 5 point). Then the next problem is finding replacement brushes. Some members here have posts on what they found worked. So, a search will give you part numbers and whatnot. I think I have a few posts on them and I list the size torx bit you need.

 

Correct gap on all plugs I've seen is 50 also. Remember in cleaning the MAF, the little glass "bulb" easily seen when you pull it, is NOT the MAF sensor. That is the IAT (intake air temperature). The MAF sensor is down inside the "tube". Use only MAF cleaner, as other types leave a residue.


Dirty IAT (intake air temperature), the MAF sensor is down inside the "tube"

Cleaned IAT

 

Throttle body procedure (for an S type but pretty much the same) =

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ics-faq-50741/

Here's the X discussion =

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...r-86984/page2/

 

I spent the day volt testing and ohm testing everything .. I cant find the Ohms for the IMTs on alldata could someone help me figure out if these are in spec. Sorry I tried.
Seems the ohms are way off on the second imt






Did more extensive testing .
Top IMT while moving the valve flap from closed to open
16.8 close between 14 and 52 ohms open.

Botton Imt 30 to 51 closed between 17 and 54 open
I did noticed the bottom does Fluctuate a bit higher then the top IMT.

When I reversed volt meter connections.
Top IMT 12.7 ohms closed 17 ohms open.

Bottom IMT
30 ohms closed and 17 ohms open.
Maynmbe there fine after all.
I was told Resistances between 30 and 90 is OK?

 

The valves open at different times and r.p.m.s, not both in concert. Top opens @ 3,000 - 5,000 r.p.m, bottom opens between 5,000 - 6,000 r.p.m.

IMT valves (Intake Manifold Tuning valves) adjust airflow in the intake manifold. At high RPM / high airflow, they ensure sufficient air is diverted to the #5 & #6 cylinders, closest to the air intake. At low RPM / low air flow, they ensure sufficient air is supplied to the #1 & #2 cylinders, furthest from the air intake.

 

So it seems my IMT valves are working as intended. I tool apart my fuel rail and injectors, built a cheap injector cleaning kit.. used carn cleaner.. all fireing perfectly fine.. with the same beautiful spray pattern.
I did not come across any leaks or clogs.

As of right now. The only thing left to do is check the 02 sensors. And wiring harness for short to ground.. I ordered the tools to clean the throttle body and unscrew those parts on the TB. I will order a new MAF.
Everything will be here by Wednesday.

Important question how do I clean the inside of my valves and pistons with out disassembling.? They look dark and nasty. Like a bbq grill that needs to be cleaned.
Thanks

Jayson

 

Need advice guys. What does this connector go too ? It's just sitting next to the starter unplugged?

 

I agree that those 2 codes are referring to a vacuum leak. I had same issue and chased my leak for a long time after changing same parts you are changing. But light still would come on. Your situation may vary but my vacuum leak turned out to be the vacuum hose connector right on top of intake manifold immediately after throttle body. I bought the factory Jaguar kit to change the brass insert and o ring but it still leaked around where the 90 degree fitting on tube goes in. I solved mine by wrapping best quality 3M electrical tape around that junction where vacuum tube goes into intake manifold and my fuel trim measures went back in spec and the check engine light stayed off after reset. I change out to new electrical tape every so often and it’s been solved ever since. I know it’s annoying and good luck