Does anyone know how to tighten intake manifold bolt tightened at 10nm without spcial tools?

 

zibby, you would need to do some math, but what you would need to do is to get a KG spring scale (a spring scale that measures out in KG) and then get a breaker bar with the correct size socket on the end. Now, you will need to measure the distance between the center of socket end (center of the socket specifically) to the point that the spring scale is attached to the breaker bar. Most breaker bars are going to be in the neighborhood of 50cm long (or 0.5m long). Now divide the length of the breaker bar into the desired torque. In this case, it is 10 NM / 0.5M = 20 Neutons. Since 1 N = 1 KG x 1 G Force (this is the force that the earth puts on everything not falling or being accelerated), the 20 neutons becomes 20 KG. So, now, you will want to hold on to the spring scale and pull it perpendicular to the breaker bar in a clockwise direction, maintaining the scale perpendicular to the breaker bar as it moves around in a circle until the spring scale reads 20 KG. If the breaker bar is say 75 CM long, then the same principle applies. 10 NM / 0.75M = 13.3 N or 13.3 KG.

A little bit of math and you are on your way. Now, don't you wish you would have paid more attention in school? LMAO. Now the trick will be getting your hands on a spring scale that can measure the desired range you need. The big thing is making sure that you keep the scale perpendicular to the breaker bar and in the direction of rotation. You start getting the scale off at different angles and now you are getting into geometry and while it can still be figured out, not as easy as what I described above.

 

thanks for reply, what i meant was with specific tools just ranch, i have a special tool but it starts from 14nm, and i need a 10nm one but i donot want to spend more money. the way i do it always can you tell me if thats ok: 1st i tighten bolt with hand fully tight it, then with ranch turn it 30degree. it that right? thanks

 

zibby, without having something that is capable of reading that low of a torque, there is no method I can think of that will give you an accurate torque. Even doing what you are saying and tightening the bolt and then turning an additional finite amount is only going to get you an even torque on all the bolts, but the torque you end up with is going to be unknown. The "angle of the nut" method (turning the bolt a finite past a certain point) is only good if you know the torque that you started the bolt out at. Really, this method is meant to torque bolts to extremely high values. At low values it is not very accurate.

Would you happen to have say a N-CM torque wrench by chance? If so, you simply need to torque the bolt to 1000 N-CM (same as 10 NM). Otherwise, I would recommend talking with your local auto parts place and see if they "rent" tools. I know atleast here in the USA, most parts places allow you to rent tools for next to nothing. that may be your best choice. Otherwise, you are stuck doing what I mentioned before and using the spring scale on the end of a wrench to get an accurate torque.

 

Doesn't the scale technique require the bot be vertical? If the bolt is horizontal, wouldn't the pull of the breaker bar have to be accounted for, especially at lower torqs? Just asking for future reference.

Thanks,
Bill

 

Bill, the trick with using a spring scale to measure the torque of a bolt is to keep everything perpendicular with everything else. Also, the use of a short socket helps too since the wrench will not wander as much. But, for the most part, whether you are doing this on a horizontal or vertical plane will not significantly affect the results unless the wrench is very heavy. But, most modern day breaker bars and whatnot will have a very minimal effect.

The best advice that I can give you is to put the bar on the bolt and hold it with one hand at the socket end and then use your other hand to pull the bar via the spring scale. The hand at the socket end is there to stabilize everything and the other hand is doing the work.

 

Guess I'm too used to working equipment where 10nm is critical. lol

 

Bill, the stuff I work with, I have torques all over the place. I get into in-oz to 1,000's of ft-lbs. Some things I get to play with we have to torque to millions of ft-lbs, but that is a rarity that we do that sort of job. Ironically, the million ft-lbs torque are much easier to do than the 1,000+ft-lbs torques. The million pound ones are done with a heating rod. You torque to a few hundred foot pounds and then you let the bolt cool. Now, breaking the bolt apart later on, that is a sight to see. Nothing like seeing a 40 pound bolt jump as you cut it in half due to the threads being welded together due to the torque.

 

Hi Thermo,
Being a machine designer I've seen a lot of torq reqs, some more reasonable than others lol, and saw a million ft/lb bolt explode once. Talk about a mess, but fortunately all my people were where they belonged and nobody got hurt.

Bill