Jagalag, measuring the windings, yes, those values are sounding fairly correct based on the equipment that you are measuring with. Windings should always be a very low resistance as they are really nothing more than a straight piece of wire. It is "motor action" that causes them to develop a resistance and not pull a ton of current. If you really want to understand this effect, let me know. But, it may get into some topics that are kinda "black box" as you have to assume this is what is going on. That one black plastic connection looks like it took a lot of heat and that would most likely be atleast a symptom of what you were seeing. Sounding like a good rebuild of the alternator is called for.

 

Yeah, I'd decided in the interim a swap out would the best policy in the time / money equation (assuming that it could be the regulator too; knock on issues + added cost + time - I resistance/diode tested the regulator but didn't get to make my table in the end).
Here in the UK 'used' isn't too extortionate at least. However there very few of my specific model which Visteon 1S7T-BE, the handful that appeared (mostly) on eBay are from overseas (though the price is almost better even with shipping), however one just suddenly appeared on a re-search from N.Ireland at £40 delivered - looking a bit grease-clogged mind.

So I went digging in for compatibility and as usual it's quite a varied picture (of course eBay's compatibility chart is not be anything to go on and seemingly varies from seller to seller depending on the vehicle model(s) selected). However some (especially new units) give quite extensive cross-compatibility lists.

One site for the Mondeo of the same alternator model (https://www.usedfordspares.co.uk/for...007-3920-p.asp) shows that all -B type variants are interchangeable:
COMPATIBLE FORD PART NUMBERS:

1S7T-10300-BA (1S7T-BA)
1S7T-10300-BB (1S7T-BB)
1S7T-10300-BC (1S7T-BC)
1S7T-10300-BD (1S7T-BD)
1S7T-10300-BE (1S7T-BE)

FORD FINIS NUMBER: 1478608
Another eBay aftermarket one has quite an extensive list which I followed one or two on searches that appeared to give a correct-format unit, shows dozens of them (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255941147941):
No. A1638N
14V
115 Amp
Include: 6 groove pulley


Make Model Year Engine Fuel Power Engine code
size KM kW
Ford Mondeo III 2000-2007 1.8 Petrol 110 81 CGBA, CGBB
Mondeo III 2000-2007 1.8 Petrol 125 92 CHBA, CHBB
Mondeo III 2000-2007 1.8 Petrol 130 81 CFBA
Mondeo III 2000-2007 2.0 Petrol 146 107 CJBA, CJBB
Mondeo III 2000-2007 2.0 TDDi / TDCi Diesel 90 66 D5BA, SDBA
Mondeo III 2000-2007 2.0 TDDi / TDCi Diesel 115 85 D6BA, HJBA, HJBB, HJBC
Mondeo III 2001-2007 2.0 TDCi Diesel 130 96 N7BA, FMBA
Mondeo III 2004-2007 2.2 TDCi Diesel 150 110 QJBC, QJBD
Mondeo III 2004-2007 2.2 TDCi Diesel 155 114 QJBA, QJBB
Mondeo III 2000-2007 2.5 Petrol 170 125 LCBD
Mondeo III 2004-2007 3.0 Petrol 204 150 REBA
Mondeo III 2002-2007 3.0 Petrol 226 166 MEBA
(ST220)
Jaguar X-type 2003-2009 2.0 Diesel 130 96 FMBA, FMBB, R4-X404
X-type 2007-2009 2.2 Diesel 146 107 LJ46G
X-type 2005-2009 2.2 Diesel 150 110 LJ46G
X-type 2005-2009 2.2 Diesel 155 114 LJ46G


CROSS REFERENCE NUMBERS
A9011 AS-PL
A9016 AS-PL
AEC1635 AUTOELECTRO
AEC1638 AUTOELECTRO
AEK1155 AUTOELECTRO
0986049460 BOSCH
0986049461 BOSCH
0986049520 BOSCH
112959 CARGO
113708 CARGO
113709 CARGO
4046 CEVAM
DRA0023 DELCO
DRA4143 DELCO
DRA4144 DELCO
56876 EAI
27-3963 ELSTOCK
27-4696 ELSTOCK
27-4698 ELSTOCK
210241 ERA
401590700 EuroCarParts
401590701 EuroCarParts
401590702 EuroCarParts
401630060 EuroCarParts
401630061 EuroCarParts
401630062 EuroCarParts
1120211 FORD
1120213 FORD
1124015 FORD
1131820 FORD
1140694 FORD
1140696 FORD
1151212 FORD
1151213 FORD
1211891 FORD
1464779 FORD
1464782 FORD
1478119 FORD
1478608 FORD
1S7T10300BA FORD
1S7T10300BB FORD
1S7T10300BC FORD
1S7T10300BD FORD
1S7T10300BE FORD
1S7T10300CA FORD
1S7T10300CB FORD
1S7T10300CC FORD
1S7T10300CD FORD
1S7T10300CE FORD
1S7T10300CF FORD
1S7T10300DA FORD
1S7T10300DB FORD
1S7T10300DC FORD
1S7T10300DD FORD
1S7T10300DE FORD
1S7T10300DF FORD
9090176 FRIESEN
9090177 FRIESEN
9090382 FRIESEN
CA1635IR HC PARTS
CA1638IR HC PARTS
8EL011710-581 HELLA
8EL012240-501 HELLA
8EL012428-261 HELLA
8EL737926-001 HELLA
8EL737929-001 HELLA
32001005 HERTH+BUSS
32063398 HERTH+BUSS
C2S27198 JAGUAR
C2S47100 JAGUAR
LRA01150 LUCAS
LRA01155 LUCAS
LRB00497 LUCAS
63380006 MAGNETI MARELLI
063380005010 MAGNETI MARELLI
063380006010 MAGNETI MARELLI
063388502010 MAGNETI MARELLI
063731638010 MAGNETI MARELLI
943316381010 MAGNETI MARELLI
944390901770 MAGNETI MARELLI
ALT332CP ROLLCO
ALT240 ROLLCO
440192 VALEO
20-150-01004 VISTEON
20-150-01005 VISTEON
20-150-01006 VISTEON
22150 WAI / TRANSPO
8255 WAI / TRANSPO
8440 WAI / TRANSPO
90-02-5107 WILSON
90-02-5143 WILSON
90-02-5144 WILSON
ALT10056 WOODAUTO
ALT21802 WOODAUTO
ALT21808 WOODAUTO

Does anyone know what the cross-compatibility of these units actually is?
I think mine's a 90A but I presume it can handle higher-rated amperage units which would then be moderated by the ECU signal idk?

 

The X-Type alternators are 130 amp units as I recall. I know for certain that they were not 90 amp units. I do not have my references in front of me since I am at work, but 130 amps is sounding really familiar.

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-idle-224782/

 

Thanks Dell Gailey, I think this is for petrol engines only though, mine's a Diesel 2.0, they apparently use a continuously variable charge-up voltage depending on demand.

 

Thanks Thermo, I somehow missed your comments here when I responded to h2o2steam. I must have started my reply to him before your post came through. Anyway busy times here so I've got a bit off track as it is, also trying to sort my son's '93 MR2 out at the same time as it's our only ride right now.
Yeah the values are right as you suggest, I think I got the concept of the windings sets mixed up, as I started assuming they were discrete like a motor rotor and not all connected together. I guess the 'motor action' creates a reactance then; but do elaborate, at least on the assumed processes going on, I would be interested to know.

I still need to identify the supply current on the unit and the options of other similar units as mentioned in my last main post. I just looked up that greasy alternator on eBay offhand, and it is describing it as 90A (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134934281017), but another one says it is 150A !(https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1738845267), so that is mighty confusing (both are Visteon 1S7T-BE, though the first one is pulled from a Mondeo and the other one just says Ford!)
I will investigate further and see what I find

 

Just been on the phone to a Jaguar dealership parts dept to find out what the alternator model and and ampere rating is for my car and they confirmed that what I had pulled out was indeed what was put in there ie Part code: C2S47100 or (what they call) engineer's no.: 1S7T-10300-BE, but did not have any info on specifications such as current rating.

They checked a different database which had nothing else to add and then he said he would send a message to another company they deal with to see if they can provide the current rating(s) and any cross compatibility lists that there might be.
It might take a week before I hear back mind, so I may just in the end buy one of the 1S7T BE units in N.Ireland rated at 90A which may arrive middle to late next week.

OnlineCarparts has 50 odd units ranging from 90A to 125A, none of which are Visteon that are supposedly analogues of the unit I need
https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/car...tor.html#10110

There was also a discussion on another (Ford - Mondeo) forum asking pretty much the same as I am (just a 1S7T BD instead) but they didn't really come up with anything conclusive or satisfactory imo.
https://www.fordownersclub.com/forum...or-compatible/

 

So I've bought one of those used units from the N.Ireland eBay seller; it's a LUCAS LRB00497, 1S7T BE analogue that came out of a Ford Mondeo 2.2 Diesel and is 90A - this seems to be from what I can tell the assigned current rating for my Jag, I did a significant amount of research which didn't really reveal what it was other than someone on a forum had determined that it would either be a 90, 115 or 124A from their inquiries, and looking up through more of the online motor factors sites using my registration plate no, 90A was generally the common denominator (though I have heated front seats etc). I have got to source another battery still as well.

Anyway in the meantime I need to remedy the ABS - DSC warning lamp issue that I mentioned way up at the start of the post. I had replaced the whole left (passenger) side, front wheel knuckle with a used part including bearing after a wheel bearing I pressed collapsed 2 years back due to prior misshaping in the outer-side of the sleeve, I can't remember if I used the original ABS sensor or one that probably came attached with it (if I did I might have that sensor floating around somewhere), however I don't recollect the issue starting at that point in time. I then replaced the driver's side driveshaft 1 year ago and it may have become an issue after that at some point but I don't remember if it coincided with it or not. Of course I don't have an alternator in the car at the moment (the drivebelt is lopped over the pulleys) so I probably won't be starting the engine. I have a basic OBD2 bluetooth ELM tool, which I don't recall any codes being thrown in that dept (can't remember which protocol I was connecting with either) - currently leant-out so need to claim it back first.
At any rate any pointers would be welcome.

 

Jagalag, per the JTIS service manual, it says that all 2.0L/2.5:/3.0L petrol/gas engines used a 120 amp alternator. It does not specifically say what size alternator was used on the diesel engines, which is where it is sounding like the other sizes came from. So, in your case, since you have a diesel engine, the 90 amp unit may be correct.

 

My alternator has just arrived and looks in much better nick, in terms of grime, than the other one (though it's probably older being off a '05 Mondeo)



Old Visteon
I did a quick continuity on the windings to compare testing between common and each tab (1+3), and between the 3 phase tabs and it gives the same as the original Visteon, in that there is continuity between every combination of contact point.

I tested the rectifier diodes by diode test (across the rectifier plates) and got 720 (again I presume it is measured in mV on my multimeter as it doesn't say) and compared it to my old Visteon which gives about 650 (with the regulator removed) 'infinity' in reverse, so there's a difference there already.
I am looking to fit it shortly, but don't have an optimally sized replacement 'calcium' battery (80Ah CCA 720A) to hook up to yet, so it will be to the 62Ah 540A one that I have in at the moment.

@Thermo here's the comment on the post (from this forum) on the alternator sizes that states the ones mentioned are for diesel models (presumably 2.0D/2.2D): https://www.jaguarforum.com/threads/...06/post-724035

 

Jagalag, like I said in my previous post, maybe 90 amps is correct for your car based on the electrical options you have. Granted, I am always one for having something a bit more than you need. So, if you can step up to the larger alternators without affecting the car (not sure why you would not be able to), getting the bigger alternator just gives you that much more margin to maxing out the electrical system. But then, I am the one that ends up adding a big stereo system or something like that and need all the amps I can get my hands on.

 

So now, after going to check the surrounding components before reinstallation, I examined the tensioner and on turning it round I discovered a fractured chip out of its rim a part of which sits under the path of the belt .

So at this point it looks like I will need to replace that unit as well ..though I didn't notice it being worn in the bearing as such. I don't know if I created it when I uncoupled the belt from the alternator with the tyre iron or if it was like that before and has been running like this since I got it just over 2 years ago. Otherwise the belt looks good at least 😉 Anyway I've since been trying and source a replacement, and on my travels I came across the well-documented issue of the failing OEM crankshaft pulley which due to its light-weight design does not withstand the crankshaft transmitting its variable cyclic forces that are generated from combustion. This got me thinking about the fact that there had always been a low-end clack/rattle and rumble mainly at low revs, that may have got more apparent in recent times - though I can't remember how it was in the beginning. Here's a link to one of the posts on it (from this forum too): https://www.jaguarforum.com/threads/...at-idle.40673/

Well it looks like I'm going to need to invest in modified (ideally) crankshaft pulley kit now as well, as I suspect this is the source of the engine rattle and will cure many of the other ills with it. Though with the modified CP having a second wheel attached needs to have a modified wheel arch cover to go with it .. so it's getting to be quite an affair.
I wonder if it would have been easier to have built one of these from scratch 😏

 

Jagalag, that pulley is not something that I would be worrying about too much unless you see where it is starting to cut the edge of the belt. Besides, you can pull the tensioner and replace only the pulley. Those are fairly generic and shouldn't cost you but $15 or so(do not ask for the Jaguar part, ask for one from a Ford Mondeo). As for the balancer, well, sometimes we get more than we thought we were getting. Smile, we will figure these things out.

 

Cool that's what I wanted to hear! My main thought was whether the tensioner was still actioning through its spring as it should, otherwise whether the alternator required removing first to get it off (I thought I'd seen somewhere that suggested it did, but it's still not a difficult operation all the same) At least I can put it back together again to get it back on the road ..after a sorting the other niggles too lol.
Weather permitting I will try to get it back together tomorrow and see what the result is. Then if all good, will move on to the ABS DSC issue

 

Yesterday, with some heaving and grumbling and a game of tetris with the alternator I got the thing in and mounted back on via the top route (still with the fuel filter cannister largely in place, just off its mounting points) - see pics for the angles ..not a method for the faint hearted but it saved me other disconnections, airlocks and the like

First phase, point pulley towards firewall - guide (perhaps 'work in' is a better term) b+ post and field control connector under the front heat shield amd jiggle around with the fuel filter cannister whilst working downwards and moving the coiled fuel feed tube away from under the path of the alt


More of the same 'working around; back and forward, up and down and trying to clear obstacles. At this point the alternator tends to hold itself in position but be careful on the final push

Unit finally pops through - hold it well! Perhaps attach 'bungee' luggage straps to help suspend it

I then decided to attach the connections before installing, so that meant pulling it back up and attaching 'bungee' straps, orienting the unit towards its final position and turning the connector side upwards.

Bungee straps suspending alt to attach connectors
So then after buttoning it up I went to put on the belt; this is where the trouble started. As I don't have a tensioning tool but had removed it before with a tyre iron, that's what I was looking to use to put it back on with. However as the tensioner has now been fully unloaded it has recoiled to a much more retracted position. So I tried with both my irons and then got my son out to help.
I quickly discovered that it wasn't budging in the same way as it had when it was loaded before taking it off, so I couldnt lever it against the engine mount as before. That meant I was needing more down force before side force.
i tried it whilst telling my son how careful you need to be to prevent slipping and breaking the pulley ..before slipping and breaking a chunk off the tensioner pulley!🤦 ..at least I know I made that one😏

I now have 2 chips side by side but the 'tooth' in between is held up by a ridge below it
Having looked for some suitable metalwork to try and wield the tensioner with and failed, I am resigned to the fact that I might need to acquire the specialist tool, otherwise fashioning something out of some angle iron or maybe getting a plumbing chain wrench and seeing if I can turn it somehow
[Also contemplating filling those chops out with JB Weld or something using ]

 

Jagalag, looking at your last pic, it looks like there is a square opening in the end of the tensioner. This is normally for a 1/2" drive breaker bar. You slide the breaker bar into that opening and there is your lever for moving the tensioner. Not really a special tool for doing the job, but not the obvious tool. I know I have a 20" breaker bar just for this sort of thing.

 

Thanks for the suggestion Thermo, I did wonder about that hole and some of the other recesses. The thing is the space is too narrow to get anything down there. I actually have an old, long-handled ratchet with removable square drive which appears to be missing its square block (I don't even know where it came from tbh). The head's quite flat and I thought if I could get it down the side then I could perhaps work out how to get a square block of metal to sit half way in on each side (though how I was going to achieve that I hadn't thought through), but that didn't even fit down the side anyway, being a bit over 2cm thick.
But now that you've mentioned the breaker bar, Im thinking I can get a square block from somewhere and use a 1/2" open and closed spanner handle arrangement to go around it and lever it that way. Now to find a square drive block or fashion something out of some metal

 

jagalag, if you have some metal working tools, I am thinking sacrificing an old 1/2" drive extension for the last 1/2" of the extension. Get a piece of 1/8" plate, weld the tip to the bar and tada, if that don't fit, no tool is. Kinda like the top tool in this tool list: Lisle 59000 Ratcheting Serpentine Belt Tool – Clark's Tool & Equipment (clarkstool.com). Granted, if you don't have the time, I am sure a little bit of looking, you can find a pre-built one for not too much.

 

Good idea, actually what was going to attempt anyway, though I wasn't sure if I had a old 'spare' 1/2" worth the sacrifice - I had an old 1/2" torque wrench and an 3/8" up-size adapter, but decided not to sacrifice them as they are still useful and also couldn't guarantee the fix so I went hunting for a suitable piece of metal instead to try my first method; using a simple block inserted with a corresponding ring spanner which would then be extend at appropriate angle to apply the torque to the tensioner.
Whilst looking for a spare 1/2" drive I came across a 1/2" universal joint which had a suitable looking block as its mid-joint connector

Universal joint swivel block removal
- so I took that apart to borrow the block (knock pins out and careful of the spring leaping out):
However it turned it was about 3mm too long (at ~21mm) to fit down the side. Eventually I found a an old bent bolt with hex head measuring 18mm and sides that were measuring about 14mm across so I could grind those down to size (@12.5mm) with some sloping shoulders; I managed to produce a quite accurate block whilst sizing continuously against the universal joint block.

With my new block suspended in a 14mm ring spanner I was able to tickle the block in using a slim wooden stick and then removed the spanner carefully to realign it as it did not have room enough to bind on the block before contacting the engine mount. When I finally got the spanner in position it became apparent that there was no bite of the block against the square recess in the tensioner, and it appeared to be about 1.5mm too small around (as can be seen in the pics) and not sitting in very deeply (about 9mm).

So I decided to abort that method as I didn't want through the whole process again, and went to the local garage to see if they had a suitable tool, They told me they always use a spanner on the tensioner pulley mount nut and achieve it that way ..obviously they never work on cars with awkwardly designed components, lol!

 

Anyway, yesterday, after resorting to the 'crowbar' method of levering the tensioner down using the slimmer of my tyre irons, I finally got the belt back on, once my son showed up from college and was able to help me.
I tried it by myself for an hour or so but was unable to hold what little deflection I had achieved whilst simultaneously trying to manipulate a very wedged belt on - I couldn't see if the tensioner was flexed out enough in the first instance. Either way I took off the wheel and tried to assess it from underneath, at which point I discovered that the inner rim of the wheel and associated components were plastered with grease and the CV boot was slipped off and missing its retention clip, just add to my woes.

CV boot off and retaining clip missing
This was from the recently replaced drivers-side axle which came as a complete unit with clips on😑 - I had to pay a 3rd visit to the garage to ask for CV grease, it is now cleaned up and installed with a jubilee clip.
Now, the trick to the tensioner was to use the crooked end of my slim tyre iron and rest the top of the arching point against the top of the rounded (pulley) end of the tensioner and to lever against the engine mount whilst thrusting some force downwards and then outwards simultaneously in several movements whilst holding down on each movement until it didn't seem to budge much more.

Tyre iron bracing against tensioner and engine mount
I then had my son dive under the car and slip the 'wedged' belt on, which he said went on in a breeze; he just pushed it with his thumb and it went straight on ..of course.
I tested the newly installed alternator with a brief start up using my small 'loan' battery with resting voltage 12.35V. In the on position with doors closed it showed 11.7V and it cranked up straight off and went to 14.3V odd and I let it run for about 30 secs or so (as I didn't want to stress the loan battery, in case there's a risk of overcharge [one forum at least someone suggested that there was on a chance, tho' on a 'smart charge' system I though there was a means of sensing the difference, and another post somewhere suggested the need to allow a new alternator/ fully charged battery to 'configurate itself' with a 15 min bed in]). After that I measured the voltage on at the battery 40 mins later as being 12.65V. Then closed everything up and will try and see if my original battery, being a calcium lead, is in fact still good as they are generally supposed to be recharged at the higher voltage which my doesn't do, hence why it probably showed full 12.6V odd at disconnect but dropped to 10.7V a short time later. It still shows 10.7V well over a week later, so there may be a chance of it being good, it's just that it should ideally be fully charged when I install it. but no sure where to charge it up otherwise