Jagalag, if you are dropping to 10.7 VDC, that is telling me that a cell is toast. I would try putting a charge on it and then with it still disconnected, let it set for 2-3 hours. If it falls to 12.4 VDC or less in that time, then you have a bad battery. If it stays at 12.6, ten you should be good.

 

Would that still apply to a calcium battery on a 'standard' charger, it's a Tronic T5 charger? That said I have put it on charge for 6 hrs, and I initially measured about 14.7V it now measures 15.3V whilst on charge. I haven't taken it off yet. My plan is to whisk it to the car and see if it starts I will check the voltages as I go. I won't let it sit for want of it dropping below a capacity to crank, if indeed it can. And then will leave it to charge on the car's smart charge system for 20+mins at idle for the supposed self-configuration learning process (as per this post: https://www.jaguarforum.com/threads/...15/post-789083) and then see what the voltages are over a short period of time; say the rest of the day.

 

Just installed the original battery and cranked the beast up. It started first turn but there was a very small bit of reluctance,
At charger before removing battery it was showing 15.25V
Charger disconnected it dropped immediately to 13.2V ..and then continued to drop slightly to 13.15V ish
I got it to the car within a 60 odd secs from disconnection to charger it was connected to the car and read 12.99V

I put the key in and started the car after letting the dashlights and glowplug warning settle - I didn't take a reading here
After starting I got another reading of 14.1V (small variation around this value)
The car was left idling at running at its higher state of ~950rpm and the charge remained at 14.1V
After about 8 mins the rev dropped down to its base idle of ~800rpm and the charge dropped a little to 14.05V (still with occasional slight variation ~0.4V)

The car did not seem to 'hunt' as suggested in the link above in my last comment but remained at 14.05V for the rest of the total of about 25 mins which, during the latter period, I revved the car to or three times to feel its response.
I then turned the car off and locked up with the battery connected.
I have just been to check the charge on the battery at about 10 mins since switching off and it reads 12.5V (I held the multimeter it there for a short while and it climbed to 12.54V) All doors closed only the bonnet open
I will go back in for the 30 mins mark now to check it again

I don't know if the battery charged correctly on the battery charger, but the supply voltage looked to be adequate ..though at 6-7 hours on charge for a 80Ah CCA 720A whether that would be right. If this were the case then whether I have had it running for long enough on the car mainly at idle to bring it back to normal operational charge.

*Latest check at 30mins (from switch off) gives: 12.48V initially - probes held on for a few secs brings it back up to 12.54V
At 1:15hr past switch off battery voltage is now 12.38V - dropping to 12.36V with multimeter probes held on
2:25hr past - 12.35V moving to 12.44V with probes held for about 30 secs
I am going to order new battery hopefully for delivery tomorrow😌

 

Jagalag, what you are seeing seems to me to be a symptom of a battery going bad. The initial drop from 15V to 14 and then on to 13.1 VDC is all normal for coming off of a charger. You should have seen the voltage steady out in the car at 12.6 VDC. I guess the other potential here is that you have something in the car that is not turning off and is causing a drain on the battery. This can be proven by simply putting the multimeter that you have on the "10A" scale, disconnecting the battery and then connecting the multimeter between the battery post and the wire. The multimeter should read something like 0.002 if all is good. If you are seeing something like 5.000 on the multimeter, then you have a problem. Now, this assumes that you have the keys out of the ignition, all lights off, doors locked, and only the hood open. If you are worried about blowing the multimeter with too much current passing through the multimeter, you can get a ceramic resistor that is 1 ohm/10 watt and attach it in the gap between the battery and the wiring. You can then set the multimeter to monitor 20VDC and for ease, you can read the multimeter as if it was current as 1 amp will give roughly 1.000 VDC reading in this case. So, you are expecting to see something in the 0.002 VDC range if all is good. WARNING though, that resistor may get very hot if you have a large current draw going on, so, be careful if you go this route.

 

Last 2 voltage checks on original battery:
6 hrs past: 12.38V
23hrs past: 12.28V
Looks like it is on a continuous loss in holding charge (unless there's a parasitic drain going on in locked-up mode)
The new battery has just arrived so going to check it out now:
Looks good started up first go, no problem.
After installing before start-up new battery: 12.58V
Electrics on before ignition: 11.8V
ON igntion: 14V
3 mins in idle at 900: 13.95
7 mins in idle drops to base (though not observed should be 800): 13.91V
15 mins: 13.95V
Engine off 1 min: 12.85V

ABS and DSC system failure warnings remain

 

Jagalag, you should be able to see 12.6 VDC for over 24 hours on your car. To have it drop to 12.38 VDC tells me that you either have a bad battery or you have something that is not turning off in the car and it is draining your battery. Based on the voltage drop, you are looking at a 1-3 amp draw. This could be from something plugged into the cigarette lighter that is used for charging a phone or something of the like. If you have anything plugged into any of the power ports, unplug them and see what you have then. If you have nothing plugged in, then you have a computer most likely that is not powering down. This is where doing a parasitic power loss check of the fuse boxes is going to show you where the problem is and then steps can be taken to clear the problem.

 

Sorry Thermo, just spotted your message now ..before I posted my previous comment (probably didn't refresh page)
I can carry out the current drain test using this multimeter (10A), which I did once before I think or maybe it was the other one (20A)!? ..well if you remember I blew 2 fuses in my other multimeters on the previous occasion - actually on that thought shall check back through the thread here to see what result I got back then

 

I looked back on my original current tests and read: '50mA final value is just above what you anticipate.' So this appears to be in range, and there is a USB adapter still attached in the boot which has a blue LED that stays on, that may account for the difference to 2mA (but it's been there since I got the car and did not present any issue previously)
Will monitor things but for now it looks to be sorted

Now looking at the ABS and DSC system failure warnings that remain

 

Jagalag, if you are down at 50 mA, then your battery voltage drop is still excessive, indicating that your battery is hurt and needs replaced. As long as you drive your car every 3-4 days, that plug in that you are talking about will not be a noticeable thing. You park the car for say 2 weeks at an airport, you may have a different story then.

 

Yeah, that makes sense.
As my son hadn't managed to coax my BT OBD ELM tool off his friend, I attempted to pull the DTC codes off via the instrument cluster display in ETM. It spat a bunch out at me (maybe 7-8 odd) but I didn't write them clearly enough on the small piece of paper I had, so I might just go out again now and get them. The ones I looked up so far, seem to be relatively benign. I noticed that the battery voltage on the ETM was 12.1-12.2V, not forgetting this the new battery; I will go and measure it again across its terminals.
I can try the current test as well while I'm out there with the USB adapter removed.

 

So the new battery (80Ah CCA 750A) was measuring 12.58V when I went out.
I removed the USB adapter and double locked the doors before pulling the neg terminal and tried my 20A multimeter across terminals and it gave me an initial 0.3A dropping to 0.05A, I tried it several times and it gave me roughly the same.
I then stuck on my 10A multimeter and it did the same only the first time it dropped to 0.03A and then again from 0.3A down to 0.05A after a few seconds - repeated several times (my next setting on both MMs was 200mA which ran overcurrent on initial contact). So it seems like there may be some parasitic draw going on (and it's not attributable to the USB adapter)

I then reconnected the battery and ran self diagnostic ETM test and got the following DTCs:
D900
9318
9600
9205
E200
A141
E511
9204 (which was preceded by 0000 for some reason)

The battery measured 12.55V at the end

 

Jagalag, the codes from the instrument cluster are not worth trying to go after. They are from the beginning of life of the car and most likely will not apply to what is currently going on. Kinda like D900 is present in every car as it gets set when it is getting built. So, reading the codes from the OBD port is the only way to assess things.

I think for the moment, I would monitor voltage on the battery. Granted, I question your multimeter at this point because if you have a 12V battery that is measuring 21+ VDC, you would be setting a new record. I would try getting your hands on a new multimeter and reperforming the checks. Yes, measuring the voltage during charging is going to have it up in the 14-15 VDC range. Immediately after charging, it will sit at 13.3 VDC or so, but then slowly ramp down to 12.6 VDC over about 5 minutes or so. But, the battery should remain at 12.6 VDC for days. I am very specific about 12.6 as there are 6 cells in each automotive battery and each of them make 2.1 VDC. So, if you are away from 12.6 VDC (ie, at a lower voltage), that is telling me that the battery is not at 100% charge and something is draining it. The 50 mA draw that hte car has should not really change the voltage except for after a few days (you are loosing about 1.5% of the charge per day with a 50 mA draw). So, even after 3 days, that would only be a 5% drop in total charge on the battery. Negligible in the big scheme of things.

 

Yes, I did read as much and apparently they can't be cleared without the specific device to do so, I hope to get my OBDII adaptor later today when my son and his friend are back from college, and see what codes are on - from previous code pulling, except possibly the last time a few months back, I don't remember there being any.
That was an error of fast-typing lol, I have just corrected it back to 12.58V! I will continue monitor the voltage at the battery. I will go and take a reading now, as well - I left it last night (UK time) measured at 12.55V after carrying out those tests and a very brief ignition of the engine to show that it would crank straight up which it did.

I was thinking to continue to troubleshoot for the ABS and DSC warnings as these are apparently a MOT fail and I'm quite desperate to get the car back on the road as it's been out of MOT now for 2 months and it is my only ride

 

Just tested the battery it is 12.55V as it was last night (15 hrs ago)
I did a resistance test (just to doublecheck) from the alternator body to car body and then to batt neg terminal, and batt neg to body and it settled at 0.8ohms on all counts. so that looks good.

The car is still on a jackstand on the drivers-side (righthand-side) from when I took the wheel off to try and put the belt back on, with a view to having ready access to the ABS sensor there, so I haven't attempted to drive the car around since sorting the alternator and battery. However when put the key in and turn to 'electrics on' position II the ABS and then DSC warnings pop up and stay on as they have done before. So they are not triggered through any motion by the car,

The original scenario as I vaguely remember it was probably the the ABS warning appeared intermittently about a year ago and then became a constant light with the DSC coming on shortly thereafter (but this is just a vague recollection)

Got a hold of my BT OBDII reader and ran it with 2 different Apps - first one 'no codes'; cleared anyway. Second one same deal.
Went and measured the resistance on my front right (drivers) wheel ABS sensor and got 40 ohms

 

Jagalag, Sounds like your drain issue is resolved. So, I would say the next step is to get the car back on 4 wheels and take it for a spin around the block to see what error codes come in. At this point, all the codes have been erased from the car due to swapping batteries. So, a quick trip should lock in any codes that you might be getting at this moment.

 

OK I'll do that now.
So I guess I didn't have a drain issue really?
(17:00)--->
Cleaned the grease off the wheel, stuck it on and went for a whirl in it (also retested ABS sensor, still at 40 Ω). The driving is quite smooth and relatively good pick up, just a bit of low-engine noise more on idle (it seems like it might still be the crankshaft pulley, with a bit of vibration observed on it - I took couple of 60 sec vids of it yesterday) I drove round the residential streets first in a short loop, then took it for a short burn down the country exit roads and got it up to 70mph and it seemed to be running well. All up my trip was about 15 - 20mins, braking, though initially a little soft since it's been standing a long time, seemed to be responsive enough, couldn't sense any ABS interaction, I did brake on the harder side from 70, though not emergency style.

Battery was at 12.45V when I got in and on my return I ran the OBD for DTCs using 'Car Scanner' (the free version) it returned no codes. I then discovered there are others levels of scan, though the orange ones are more experimental and at your own risk so I ran another green one which also probed for hidden values, again no codes, cleared anyway. Then just now whilst going through settings I noticed I had the Peugeot 207 profile on as it had been in there prior; it is OBDII / EOBD. However I have 2 profiles for the Jag, one with the same connection profile and the other with '+ extra(CAN)' on as well. So I might go back and run the DTC test on that one but I don't know if it will run anything differently for those.

After I switching the car off I went to measure the voltage and it was at 12.68V, obviously in climb down phase from charging. During the drive I had the OBD-Voltage feature running and it showed charging at 13.6 - 13.7V on the few occasions I looked. I noticed that the OBD reported voltage it slightly lower than that measured on the battery, ie OBD-V showed 12.4V engine-off - ignition pos II engaged, whilst the battery showed 12.68V with the key removed.

(19:00) OK, having gone to the car to connect with that profile I just discovered that it is not compatible and only runs with the XJ III and XK II and there's other option for the X-Type so it's the standard one I did already

 

Jagalag, well, if the CEL is off, I would take the car to get its MOT if all the problems are resolved. The only thing that might hold you up at this point is getting all the parameters set. Not sure if that is a requirement for the MOT. It takes around 50 miles (80 KM) of driving to get all the parameters to set to give you a P1111 code (ie, all is good, all tests have passed).

 

Well, the engine-shaped CEL has never been on AFAIR. However the ABS warning lamp is on and the Instrument digital display warning 'DSC System Fault'
Don't think P1111 is a requirement for MOT
However I've read in various places that ABS lamp and DSC fault are MOT fails (based on various years going back to 2008)
Here's one post entry from 2008 suggesting as much: https://www.jaguarforum.com/threads/...27/post-162447

 

Jagalag, well, if we are down to just the ABS (ABS is causing the DSC fault most likely). we just need to find out what is triggering the ABS. This is where getting the codes read will help. You should be seeing something like C1145/C1155/C1165/C1175. That would tell me that a wheel speed sensor is bad. If your speedo is still working, then we know it is only a single wheel causing issues. Would you happen to have a "hum" coming from the front end that you can hear and tends to go away when you turn one direction, but remains when you turn the other? If so, that is a front wheel bearing. You can't normally hear the rear bearings if they are going, but the rear has a reluctance ring that likes to rust and break. You can remove the rear sensors and look at that ring (wlll be about 1CM wide and have rectangles cut out of it). It should be tight against the shaft. Your code reader should give you the codes I mentioned above. May have to do a specific "ABS code check" to get the codes. I know if you are using the Torque App on a cell phone, that will read the C codes without having to do anything special.

 

Just to update from last night, my wife persuaded me to do a run to the local town (10 miles away - 20 mile round trip) and do a late night shop (since my son's MR2 2-seater has a limited boot space and part-cooks the food from the heat off the mid-car engine lol). As there are no ANPRs on the route nor generally signs of the law round these parts, I took the gamble. The car drove nicely (bar aforementioned low end noise in the low revs) and braking wasn't a problem either.
Prior to setting out I checked the new battery - it was on 12.47V (though the OBDII BT adaptor has been left plugged in). When I stopped, I got out and checked it again, within 60 secs, it was at 12.97V
Speedo is definitely working - so would 2 or more sensors out cause the speedo to drop out then?
No front end hum, and I've had 3 different replacement wheel bearings in the front end since I bought it just over 2 years back! 2 on the passenger side: when the original went I got new bearings (as a pair) which went it turned out went in to a deformed knuckle hub carrier socket; when I pressed it (using a thrust bearing press-puller tool) it felt oddly loose in the first phase of press but settled, and then self destructed within a few short journeys, and then breakers yard replacement knuckle with bearing to replace that which is still running fine. Then my drivers-side bearing and CV joint went last year, so I ended up swapping out with the other new bearing and replacing the drivers-side half axle.
You're right I haven't sensed the rear bearings going, so don't know where they are at exactly, but I think I did check wheel play round all the wheels at some point or another (probably at some point last year). It had passed it's roadworthy (MOT) in February a year back however. I might try and get to look at the reluctor rings on the backs at some point in checks. I will install the Torque App (I think I have used it in the past too) and see if it gives me the C codes first.