Jagalag, yes, if you loose 2 or more wheel speed sensors for whatever reason, the speedo will drop to 0. The ABS computer doesn't know if the wheels at 0 or the wheels at some speed are the correct speed. So, the computer drops the speedo to 0 to essentially say "I do not know what is going on, you need to pay attention and fix me". A single failed sensor, the computer assumes the one is bad, ignores it and averages the other 3 to give you a speedo speed.

 

OK, that's useful, so I would be expecting only one failed sensor if that is indeed the cause. Incidentally I have now 5 OBD Apps downloaded and an ELM327 identifier App to confirm the chipset. I have been researching for the ABS sensor codes but, although I'm probably an expert on the subject now lol, I haven't found that Torque reliably queries X-type codes (same scenario as MotorData OBD); I have the basic 'lite' version installed, just holding off paying for Apps that don't produce the goods. If you can verify that Torque Pro does I could get it then. However one or two of the scanner Apps have a terminal input for PID querying, though I don't know if that extends to other non-standard code features like 'chassis'.
I'm still looking in to it right now. I might make another 20 mile round trip later today or tomorrow (parcel drop-off) to help bring the car closer to P1111

 

Jagalag, this is where your X-Type is in a no-man's land of time with OBD. Do you have the V1.8 or V2.1 ELM reader? If I am remembering things right, you need the V1.8 for 2005 and earlier X-Types and the V2.1 for cars 2006+. While the wrong version will net you some answers, it may not give you all. So, something to consider.

 

I ran the firmware identifier App and it returned with all versions supported up to and including V2.2 ..but not the last one V2.3; so declared as V2.2 which suggests that I should be good for one or the other (I think) - however there was no V1.8 to scan; it went 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.3a, 1.4, 1.4b, 2.0, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3.

Now I've just come back from my run to drop off the parcel. When I went out to get in the car, the remote fob failed to operate, so I had to open it manually with the key; I went and tested the new battery it showed 12.46V. Car started up easily enough and I drove off on my short trip 5 miles each way - so 10 miles roundtrip (I misjudged it on my last post). I had the package (a car wheel [tyre and rim] about 19kg) sit on the rear seat with no seat belt and on my way down the SRS airbag symbol came on intermittently and then had stayed on by the time I got to my destination. I was out of the car for about 8 mins then, when I returned to it I tested the battery again at 12.82V. Also I noticed a grumbling sound that appeared after a short while that seemed to remain; hope it's not been cursed by the mention of wheel bearings

On my way home the SRS airbag symbol was on continuously and when I got back I noticed that there was no light cluster function (indicators, headlamps, etc) I hadn't noticed this prior tho' the journey only requires indication on a couple of junctions anyway. I went and tested the battery again with 60 secs of arrival and it was at 13.05V. I then tried all 5 of my OBDII Apps (plus the firmware test) and none of them had a code thrown; also MotorData OBD seems not to explicitly support Jaguar but does a huge range of other cars, oddly - many showing their extended parameters features.
Finally I did a quick short drive up and down the road, maybe 300m and there was no SRS airbag symbol. However all lights functions were gone including on the instrument display and I had to lock up by key. Prior to that (with the key out) I tested continuity across the fuses in the engine bay and all of them appeared to be good.
I will try and investigate what's going on in the meantime, but hopefully someone might have an insight on it anyway

 

Jagalag, with the instrument cluster, I would venture to guess you have a broken solder joint on the back of the instrument cluster, specifically the main connector for it. Sounding like you lost power to the instrument cluster. If not that, then I would be looking at the GEM module. I would need to look at the diagrams for all the lights and whatnot. If you still had say the speedo and tach, then I would be leaning more towards the GEM module. Keep in mind that there are a few fuses that power the GEM module. So, if you find a single fuse, keep looking, there are others. HOpefully it is something simple.

 

Thanks I did still have the speedo and tacho and other functionality. Just ran a test with my son and I have low beams and parkers, reverse and brake lights; there are no high beams nor indicators/hazards, the main beam lights on the dash were quite hard to see with normal ambient light hence my thinking they weren't on.
Also no central locking either by fob or manually by key

 

Jagalag, then this is almost for certain a GEM issue. Check fuse F35 in the passenger compartment fuse box (should be a 35 amp fuse). I bet you will find that blown. I bet if you look, you will not be able to unlatch the trunk either and a bunch of your interior lights are not going to work. These are all helping to confirm the fuse. If this is not the case, then let me know and we will take things from there.

 

It was a bugger to get to as I had to remove it to measure it but F35 is only 15 amps and labelled as 'direction power module' on an online chart, but it was intact.
I'm fairly sure that I can't unlatch the boot as all the doirs have to be unlocked manually . Not sure about interior light (even tho I was just in there .. but was wearing a headlamp as it's nighttime) but will go and try that in a minute

 

I think there might be a ghost in the machine!
i just went out and opened up by key no interior lights came on. Then I manually switched to on all 3 front courtesy lights, they all lit up. Switched them off, tried again, turned them off, opened the door but no auto-courtesy light. Closed the door switched lights on front again and then pressed the P1 parking detector switch behind it (they've never worked and I had pulled the module from the boot a couple of years back when I discovered it had tidemark corrosion from historic tyre-well flooding - I was originally going to re-solder the corroded SMD joints but then I lost a few of them so never put it back on lol). Anyway when I pressed the P1 I heard the driver door click like the lock was latching so I went and opened the door handle and the door lock immediately went in to judder and then stopped when I let go.
Then I tested the rear courtesy light and switched it from what I think may have been the (right-side) 'off' position to fully on it came on in the manual on position. So redid the same 3 courtesy lights and P1 switch, but did not notice anything different, regarding the door lock.
Next I put the rear courtesy lights throug a sequence and miraculously the lights came on in the auto postion when I opened fhe door, at the same time all the locks on the doors opened. I closed the door and then pushed the drivers door lock closed and all the doors locked and courtesy lights (front and back went out). I used the key fob and it operated the door locks.
I tested the lights with highbeams and indicators and they all worked. I locked up, came back in and scratched my head😐

Now it's been raining this past few hours but not when I took it for a spin earlier, in fact it was warm and sunny then

 

Jagalag, *starts whistling the Twilight Zone theme* Have you thought about calling an exorcist? LMAO. Actually, what you are experiencing would indicate that the GEM module is the source of the problem then. Normally when it rains, the GEM acts up, not when it is hot and sunny. But, you can never tell with electronics. I would say to start doing a look for a GEM module and getting your hands on one when you find a good deal. Swapping one out isn't all that hard. Should not require any programming on your part.

Because the lights came on, that tells me the fuse is good. The GEM module provides a ground to turn the light on and the lights have power at all times. So, we can prove things through indications. Hence why I am saying that it is looking a lot like a bad GEM module.

 

.
I'm thinking I'll be booking the exorcist's before the MOT lol, hoping it might hold up when it goes through its tests😬
It certainly looks that way! Btw I think that I did also jiggle the connectors on the GEM about last night (just can't remember at what point of the sequence that happened, ie before or after it came back to life) I'm taking it that there would be a few variants of the GEM around and I would need to match up the module number or something of that ilk.

In regards to the ABS DSC, although I haven't quite cracked how to access the extended codes via OBD yet, I had some thoughts about a possible scenario. As the issue I think started around the time of the driverside axle / wheel bearing install (though possibly before and I think as intermittent initially) I wondered if my replacement wheel bearing had sufficient magnetic strength on the pulse strip to induce the required current in the ABS sensor. At the time I bought them (as a pair) a couple of years back I was aware of potential issues regarding effective magnetic strength on some bearings, so I would have sourced it accordingly. I think I bought them on eBay so should be able to see what they were from my purchase record, and yes I would have oriented it point at the sensor (though I did have to do a double run on it as the first press started to angle slightly so I put it back (wrapped up) in the freezer) to reattempt it. The first bearing on the passenger side (about 2 years back) was not in long enough for me to have noticed or remembered if the ABS light had been on or not.
Also the CV grease from the broken boot strap may well be a later event than the ABS coming on, but again it's hard to say; I would have thought I would have had had the wheel off more than once since then and might have noticed the caked on grease on the inner rim of the wheel (though it was coated with dust too). Also not sure if grease/ iron dust would have built up and effect the sensor. I had one idea to pull the driverside ABS sensor and clean the socket with brake cleaner (probably spray - trying to avoid prolonged contact with the bearing seals). I don't know what you think of that as a line of investigation?

 

Went back to the car yesterday as I needed some tools inside and it's back to its bad old ways again - so the GEM's probably playing up once more, only this time it actually had been raining quite hard outside in the time prior.
I also tested the battery again and it was 12.24 rising to 12.32V after a few secs. I don't know if this was off the back of having only done a shortish ride (10 miles) 2 days before

 

Jagalag, I owuld feel the carpetting under the GEM module. I bet you will find it wet. I seem to remember that water gets into the car and gets on the GEM module, shorting it out and causing all sorts of strange things to happen.

 

Just had a look.. the car of course opened straight up off the fob and the carpet wasn't wet. Tried to sense if it was even damp but no real indication of that either!
Second hand GEMs don't look too expensive, so maybe I should plumb for one of those and hope for the best lol

 

Yesterday morning, I tested the fob and it opened the car; it had been raining earlier, possibly overnight but I don't think it was particularly heavy.
This morning I tried again and the fob would not work, I tested the battery and it was sitting at 12.39V without the key in. The engine cranked resonably easily and I drove it to the corner of the road and back and parked up again.

I will buy a replacement GEM if I don't get any instructions to try anything else soon

I checked the affordable GEM offering and there was only the one at a decent price others are about 2.5 times as much! It seems that you buy any other version the price is low, particularly the AD ver but mind is the ED. When Ilooked at the eBay ad the title and description were for an 'ED' but their photos are of an 'AD', I've sent a message to them to clarify but I'm thinking theirs is an 'AD' as they had in their descrition to check the pictures for 'fitment'
If I'm stuck withthe higher price, Im going to need to assess how much more money amd time I can afford to put in to it, as I'm looking now to get another ride altogether.

 

I 'had' to do another journey to take my wife and daughter to town to the trainstation, this time a 50 mile round trip, only as the GEM issue was back I had no indicator turn signals, so I decided to use hand signals instead where necessary.and use a less 'risky' route.

Before we headed off I'd checked the car over once more this time I noticed after opening the car by key and closing the door that the inside courtesy lights were on and would switch off manually. I took it for a short spin up and down the road and the interior lights stayed on, afyer I parked up and had nanually locked the car the courtesy lights were still on - so I wondered if this may have been the case before when I came back to the car last and the battery voltage was only 12.32V (rising from 12.36V)
I then went and disconnected/ reconnected the battery to clear the lights.

Shortly thereafter I took my wife and daughter to the train and when I opened the car by key (still trying to use the fob every time as well), the courtesy lights did not come on (as per the first observation) however I could not switch them on manually, as I could the original time.
There were also a couple of things that were now back to front as well. At various unpredictable points the door locks would get actuated or try to be, the first time I noticed today it unlocking the doors but then it was locking the doors.

On the way down and bzck we noticed that exceptionally hot air was blowing through the vents so closed yhem and turn the fan down, but the hot ambient air seeped through. Also tried to wash the windscreen but the wipers would not automatically follow the spray so had to do that by manually engaging the wipers.

The cars response, pick up and handling was excellent though. - overlooking some low rev rattles and the abiding grumbling noise which may be the next wheel bearing going.

When I got home I tried to open the door by the handle and it basically broke across the lock mechanism and the handle was left pointing in to the car so I had to exit it via the passenger door. The lock still operated via the key and handle from the outside however. I then made the mistake of trying to fiddle around to get it back to working and ended up locking down the 'lock blades' in the edge of the door which wouldn't cone back up and hence the door wouldn't close so I had to go and operate on it straight away. The good news if there can be is that I got that part remedied, rejigging the door clips so I could remedy the fact that it had (historically) come away from the top where I found broken clips.

After testing the handles I tried the locks internally and you could hear the locks triggering but, operating the driver's door lock, it would only open the diagonally opposite rear passnger lick to open or close, and it seemed the converse when closing/opening the lock on the front passenger door (I think)

 

Jagalag, yeah, your GEM module is defnitnely doing some strange things. One thing you may want to consider doing just as a preventative thing is to go to each door latch and if you look, there is a C piece that actually latches the door shut. If you look on the outside edge of it, you wlll see where it is round, then has a flat spot in it. If you do the latch, this flat spot will hit a button switch. Take some WD-40 and spray all 4 door button switches. These are known to stick and cause the interior lights to remain on. Worst case, you are lubing that switch and will not have a problem wtih that switch for a few years to come.

 

Hi Thermo, I went yesterday, tried the fob - nothing, so opened up by key. Then I tested the battery it was at 12.54V, so it evidently had benefitted from the 50 mile journey 2 days before. I then opened the front passenger lock by hand and it tried to operate all locks by only the rear passenger-side one opened (the front was already unlocked) - so it appeared that it was the rear driver-side that was not responding (this may have been the case at my last test too, but possibly mis-remembered). Then I went and sprayed all the locks with a PTFE laced lubricant and went and opened and shut all the doors a couple of times.
On the drivers door which regularly sticks I opened and shut it dozens of times to try to limber up the lock. The first couple of goes it opened without too much effort, but then became difficult. I could open it one-handed by applying quite a lot more force in an upward motion, but otherwise I'd normally open it by 'body-checking' the door edge as I lift the handle and usually does it.

Anyway I jumped in and ran the engineering test again for good measure and to see if it flagged the ABS codes at all - I didn't notice anything. The OBDII did not pick up any new thrown codes either.
Whilst sitting there I decided to check the fob and this time it actioned the door locks. The lights were back to working again as well. So I locked up and left it. Today I tried the fob again and it is still working.
I will go now and see if the rear driver-side door lock can be opened centrally; manually from the front locks and by fob.

Some strange sequencing by the lock system. Just opened by fob and straight away opened up the rear driver-side door - so that passed the first test. Then got in and locked the car with the fob and everything locked. Then manually opened the driver's door lock and it only opened the 'diagonally across' rear passenger lock. Then opened the front passenger lock nothing happened to the rear driver's lock. Managed to get all locks to close using the fob I think. I then open all the locks some how, but can't remember now if it was manual or fob. Then I went through some of the procedure again opening and closing manually using the internal front locks and got the front driver's to open and close the rear passenger. The front passenger still only operating it's own (the same for the rear driver). I got out and double locked by fob.

Just gone out again and opened by fob and only the front driver's and rear passenger open up. I manual opened the rear driver's and then attempted to lock up and it locks up ..but the rear driver's door remains openable!

I went for another test again. Only the front driver and rear passenger unlatched. I opened the rear driver door and the alarm went off. Closed and opened by fob again and it stopped alarming. I then jumped in tested the locks same scenario, only I demonstrated that I could open the front driver lock using the front passenger as well, but that the front driver no longer has control of the front passengers lock (only the rear passenger). Started the car and made all the lock latches open and went for a short drive to try and trigger the auto-lock mechanism and nothing happened (but lights and indicators were all working as expected). So came back went through the sequences again, which seem to remain in the same most recent configuration (where the front passenger lock operates front driver and rear passenger, but front driver's lock only operates rear passenger) and then locked up manually on front passenger and rear driver and fob locked the car.

 

I went out yesterday (27/03/24) [updating here on the post above] and tried the fob. The car responded (indicators flashed etc), but only the driver's and rear passenger doors unlocked and were openable😐

I suspect everything else that was related to this issue is functioning (as per my trials before) - so if I can resolve the ABS /DSC issue I think I might be able to hopefully get it through its MOT roadworthy test ..assuming that the other doors not opening from the outside are not a fail item

Just need to troubleshoot the ABS at this stage

 

The day before yesterday, which was warm and sunny I tried the fob and it was back to not working again. A friend by chance loaned me a cabled OBDII tester (Vident iEasy320) which I ran for codes, but there were none. With the key still in ign position, there was a battery option which showed me 11.6V initially rising to 12.1V after a minute or so and then a few mins later I checked again and it was showing 12.35V - I had not turned the car over at all.
The same was the case the yesterday too. I had to try to get some tools out of the boot but of course it would not open, so I went through the rear passenger area.
At about midnight I heard an alarm go off and it turned out to be my car, which had decided to remedy itself again, and because I'd attempted to open the boot's electronic but before it had loosened it off the lock and so the car thought it had been broken in to. The remote central locking was working earlier today, this evening I tried again and the fob had stopped working again