Battery connected backwards
#1
Battery connected backwards
I accidentally attached the battery backwards on my 2006 x type, yea I know! I am just wondering if there is a fusible link that protects the electrical system. If not, what kind of damage am I looking at? Hopefully I just burned some fuses but I'm not that lucky. I have not replaced the battery on it yet so I'm not sure if the car will start or not. Any help or advice will be greatly appreciated.
#2
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okstate734 (08-02-2012)
#3
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okstate734 (08-02-2012)
#4
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okstate734 (08-02-2012)
#6
I'll admit to doing this too, and I didn't turn the key so all that happened is that I needed a new battery cable to be safe. Hopefully the worst that happens is that you feel like an idiot... That's what happened to me. Just felt like and idiot and one battery cable. If you turn on the ignition, you're screwed.
#7
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#9
Someone who knows the X type will help but the chances are you've only fried the diodes/voltage regulator not the whole thing.
I don't imagine, being a Jaguar,that the unit can be removed without removing the alternator but it isn't an expensive item.
Again an X type can tell you if it's easy to take the connector off the alternator which would let you turn the key and find out what else is toast.
I don't imagine, being a Jaguar,that the unit can be removed without removing the alternator but it isn't an expensive item.
Again an X type can tell you if it's easy to take the connector off the alternator which would let you turn the key and find out what else is toast.
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okstate734 (08-03-2012)
#10
Aaagghh!
JTIS procedure calls for removal of the AC Compressor but I'm sure the guys will have away of avoiding that.
The alternator disconnect and removal procedure is:
JTIS - X-Type 2005 Generator.pdf
Graham
JTIS procedure calls for removal of the AC Compressor but I'm sure the guys will have away of avoiding that.
The alternator disconnect and removal procedure is:
JTIS - X-Type 2005 Generator.pdf
Graham
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okstate734 (08-03-2012)
#11
Good old Jaguar. They never let you down do they?
Looks like you can disconnect the big battery lead (and stop it from touching anything) and pull the other connector with the alternator in place to try turning the key.
Obviously disconnect batt gnd before + reconnect after!
ps looking at Graham's pdf you might just be able to get the module off in-situ - obviously it's the plastic bit the wires go into.
Looks like you can disconnect the big battery lead (and stop it from touching anything) and pull the other connector with the alternator in place to try turning the key.
Obviously disconnect batt gnd before + reconnect after!
ps looking at Graham's pdf you might just be able to get the module off in-situ - obviously it's the plastic bit the wires go into.
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okstate734 (08-03-2012)
#13
So what are odds that the module is the only fried part. It looks like there is a metal cover with about 4 small nuts holding it on. I assume the module is under that? I can't figure out how to get the alternator out even if I removed the ac! It looks like I should remove the cooling fan assembly to get it out. I really don't want to do that. Also, the pivot bolt won't budge. This has become a major pain in my ***. Any suggestions?
#14
I can pretty much promise that the bit with the 4 nuts will be the only fried part of the alternator.
On all the alternators I've seen (and don't forget I'm not an X-type) the electronic module will lift off the alternator body with a couple of small carbon brushes that energise the alternator via slip rings.
My anxiety is what else on the car has also gone pop.
That's why I suggest disconnecting the alternator and turning the key.
On all the alternators I've seen (and don't forget I'm not an X-type) the electronic module will lift off the alternator body with a couple of small carbon brushes that energise the alternator via slip rings.
My anxiety is what else on the car has also gone pop.
That's why I suggest disconnecting the alternator and turning the key.
#15
Turned the key (without alternator) and the only thing I could see that didn't work is the radio. Hopefully it's just a fuse! Still haven't got the alternator out, guess I'm gonna take it out the fender well unless someone has a better suggestion. I had to order one and I get it tomorrow. I will keep you advised! Thanks for all the replies and suggestions.
#17
Steve,
I remember reading either you shouldn't run with an alternator disconnected or shouldn't run with a battery disconnected.
Being a complete p**t, I can't remember which it was....................
Graham
I remember reading either you shouldn't run with an alternator disconnected or shouldn't run with a battery disconnected.
Being a complete p**t, I can't remember which it was....................
Graham
#18
Graham,
It would be the battery because it is it that clamps the +ve supply.
If you think about it if an alternator goes t*ts up you can still start the car until the battery gets too flat.
I imagine OP will get some messages about no charge but if it runs he hasn't fried the ECM.
Least that's my take on it but I'm a fully paid up JF-OF member as you know and am frequently wrong.
It would be the battery because it is it that clamps the +ve supply.
If you think about it if an alternator goes t*ts up you can still start the car until the battery gets too flat.
I imagine OP will get some messages about no charge but if it runs he hasn't fried the ECM.
Least that's my take on it but I'm a fully paid up JF-OF member as you know and am frequently wrong.
Last edited by GGG; 08-04-2012 at 08:28 AM. Reason: Gallic humour may not travel!
#19
#20
Haven't tried to turn it over since I havent gotten the alternator out yet. Did a test on the computer and it seemed to go through all the checks ok. Hopefully I can get the pivot bolt out! It still won't budge and now it's rounded off. Have tried everything I know and it won't budge. It acts like it is left handed threads(Its not is it?) I will keep updating and I'm sure ask for more ideas. Like how to get the bloody thing out of the engine bay!